Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

None of those fit a fan clutch. They're all direct-drive blades (they bolt directly to the water pump hub, usually via a spacer).

Clutch fan blades have a much larger hole and look like this:

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The large hole in the center allows the clutch's hub to pass through it. The clutch is what bolts to the water pump. The blade bolts to the clutch, not the water pump.

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Here's what it looks like installed on my Valiant. That car has a very short clutch due to space limitations, but if you look closely you can see three of the four bolts holding the clutch (and pulley) to the water pump. You can also see one of the four bolts holding the blade to the clutch.

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You're looking for numbers like 2863215, 2863216, and 3462149. The last number is the actual fan with which your car might've been built: HP small block, max cooling. It's 20" in diameter, so if you've got a shroud make sure it'll clear. There are later fan blades that work as well, usually much cheaper, but there's no way for me to interchange applications. The 5-blade cop/truck fan works as well as the 7-blade versions and can be had for less money. This one is the cheapest one on eBay, but make sure that bolt pattern matches up to your fan clutch before you order it.

Unfortunately, I have a lot more engines than I have fan blades so I'm not able to help you out with one.
 
No go on the one you posted, he measures 2" center to center on the bolt holes I measured my clutch & they are 2 3/8"
I'll try googling the other #'s you listed.
 
The 3462149 is the actual fan blade that would've come on your car originally. It's also got the factory-correct clutch on it (3769614), but a used clutch is, well, used. Since you've got a 21.5"-diameter shroud, I wouldn't think there'd be a clearance issue. The fan is supposed to mostly fill the shroud. That fan and clutch should locate it correctly fore-and-aft in relation to the shroud's rear edge--which does matter. It's a factory-engineered solution.

The last one you posted, the new 19", should work as well. My only concern with it is the depth. The fan needs to be approximately centered in the shroud fore-and-aft, not sitting behind it. 2.7" isn't much depth, but you can put the radiator/shroud assembly in and measure from the pulley flange to the edge of the shroud and get an idea of how far away that needs to be. Keep in mind that the fan bolts to the back of the clutch, so you'll want to subtract about an inch from the seller's measurement to estimate where the fan blade sits in relation to the shroud. For example, if you measure the distance from the pulley face to the shroud and it's 3", then that clutch isn't tall enough.
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I'm sorry I haven't been participating as much over the last week. There are a few reasons: A week ago, my clothes dryer died the night before I was leaving town for a few days' vacation, and I tried in vain to repair it--ending up at the laundromat. The next day my back was wrecked, though I've no idea what happened to it. I was in pain all through vacation and have remained so since. It's the worst my back's been in years. I also have an abcessed tooth, which certainly isn't helping things. My thought processes and concentration have been a little scattered.
 
Hey dude, take care of your issues, they all sound painful, been lucky with my back, hasn't gone out in quite a while (Knock on wood here) I had the worst teeth, more root canals then my actual tooth count, caps to bridges till I finally gave up & had what little was left pulled & got dentures, even after that I had a wisdom tooth pop through the gum & get infected.
But I lost a little weight because eating is more like a job than a pleasure!

I'll see if the orig. fan is still up, if not I can wait a while maybe another will pop up.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
I had the worst teeth, more root canals then my actual tooth count, caps to bridges till I finally gave up & had what little was left pulled & got dentures...
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Same here, except I still have most of my lower teeth. However, I was born with the keen disadvantage of being immune to local anesthesia. In other words, novacaine and its ilk are useless against me, as are any/all opiates (including morphine). So I've had to have all my dental work done raw--nothing to dull the pain. I've impressed more than one dentist with my pain tolerance, along with a couple of surgeons who were very surprised when I awoke mid-operation, fully cognizant of what was happening and how much it hurt.
 
OK car first pain second!

got that orig. fan!

Pain, that infected wisdom I mentioned, because it was infected the shots didn't work, I didn't think it would be so hard to get out, he kept working I kept hanging on to the chair for my life, He finally said no more, gave me a prescription for antibiotics & sent me to an oral surgeon.

My whole friggen body was shaking when I left there, I was willing to let him go just to get it over with, but I'm kinda glad He called it before he did kill me!

I've broken a few bones, many abscessed teeth, but that was by far the worst pain I've ever encountered.

I can not imagine what you have to go through for a simple filling, running away from even mentioning any worse problem!
 
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RUSTY Cuda said:
He finally said no more, gave me a prescription for antibiotics & sent me to an oral surgeon.
Click to expand...
I've still got one that grew sideways under the gum that my dentist couldn't get out because there's a nerve in the way.

Dr.Jass said:
my clothes dryer died
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There is always some appliance dead or dying here. Right now our washer periodically throws an E35 code and overfills to the point of flooding the room it's in.
 
Well I used to hear the last generation talk about aging gracefully, I have to say they were full of it, NOTHING graceful about it.

Appliances, we are hunting a fridge, ice maker went, they used to last 30 years, now you're lucky if you make it to the warrantee period!
 
After 2 days on those backing plates I'm still not done, after I did 2 rounds of stripper on the second one I blasted the first one again & a little wire wheeling I got some self etch on that! 20230928_122043.jpg20230928_122022.jpg 2 more rounds of stripper & a bunch of wire wheeling I finally got most of the paint off but this one is nastier than the first I still have to do a round of blasting. 20230928_152842.jpgAt least I got one all painted & cleared today! 20230928_161653.jpg
 
The splash shields came & they are not what I needed.
So from their pic it looked like one was longer than the other, I guess it was just the angle? splash shields.png
What came is the front ones that go between the 2 K frame mounts, the pass I have & figured maybe not a total loss I didn't know there was one on the drivers side, well I took a look & there's no holes over there?
This is what came. 20230928_121956.jpg
Went back to the website & they don't list the rear passenger side one, or I can't find it?
 
According to the 1974 parts catalog:

Driver's side splash shield for starter is 3404435. This is nicely shown in the '70-'71 parts book and is listed for all models, but not so much in the '74 (where it's shown for automatic transmission only). I believe this is behind the K-member.

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The ones that go between the K-member legs are 3642974 (passenger's) and 3642975 (driver's). Those look like what you've got. The only picture I have of one mounted is the passenger's side. The driver's side of the '74 stub I had was completely rotted out in that area.

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If there's supposed to be a right-hand (passenger side) splash shield behind the K-member, I can't find it in any year catalog. I've looked in the Frame, Fender & Sheet Metal, and Cooling groups. None show anything on that side, but I found all the other ones with little issue (they have you jump all over the catalog for the small ones between the K-member legs).
 
I have the starter shield & the K-frame passenger side, I was looking for the rear section of the pass. side, there are 2 holes for mounting something over there, as I said I figured I'd use the drivers side K-frame one, but there's no mounting holes over there, is it worth it to drill a couple, it will at least save me from returning them?
& if I do, it's one more new part you will eventually get!
 
Not every hole on the frame will be used. Like I said, there's nothing shown in the parts books. Can't install something that doesn't exist.

As for drilling for the other shield, that's your call. I can't say I would.
 
Exhaust is almost done, before I tighten anything I have to see if I can worm in the rear sway bar!!!!!!
First thing was to put in the tranny rod & check clearance, good thing it fit stock, you can't just flip it they are offset & a mile off, if you reversed it, it would go but the 2 levers are different thickness & won't take the pin!
20230930_130939.jpg
So marking the holes had me nervous not many on a flat spot, but the drilling went pretty easy.
20230930_151942.jpg20230930_151947.jpg

So with it in what I hope is the correct position I started drilling20230930_144644.jpg
The only last adjustment will be side to side, it looks pretty good? 20230930_144611.jpg
one spot it;s real close to the gas tank lip! 20230930_161022.jpg
All temped in20230930_161046.jpgIf I didn't overlook the clamps that had to be slid on first I could have set everything & started to tighten up.20230930_161904.jpg
Just have to drop a few of the front piecces & slide em on, then I should be there.

Gonna miss that 1st open header startup!

I did add the biggest washers I could find inside, all they had was the lock washers. need a helper to finish tightening those, bolts started spinning on me & my arms are not 7' long! 20230930_154327.jpg
 
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sway bar wormed in there, but it needed another coat of paint after sitting & getting all kinds of debris on it, so I shot that early & went on to set the exhaust system in.
Started with the side to side in the rear & got them both looking good.
20231001_130227.jpgOn the passenger side every bolt I tightened twisted it one way or the other.
Now I have everything on that side tight & I can still get a little twist when I kick it, guess I'll wait & see now if driving it moves it???

Drivers side mot so much that seems to be solid.

The rubbers on the hangers are distorted quite a bit.
20231001_161038.jpgFront area came apart easy, slid on the clamps & put in the gaskets & tightened all that up

Then it was on to the sway bar, now you would think, 8 bolts, I'll be done in 10 mins., NOT on this car.
I had to pound the brackets on to the frame rail, then the holes would not line up, Now one was missing on the drivers side, & the other 3 were all the next size bolt up (1/2"), pass. side were all 7/16th but one was stripped (the hole) managed to get 3 on each side.
have to figure out what to do with the last 2, they are like this on both sides, soooo close but no cigar! 20231001_161147.jpgYou can see where I pounded off all my nice fresh paint!
anywho the sway bar is kinda in.................20231001_160913.jpg
& I hope the exhaust is DONE! 20231001_160947.jpg
Also torqued down all the tranny & motor mount bolts!
 
After looking at the pic of the tips I realized I should have shot them head on, hope they stay this way! 20231002_162933.jpg
Then I started getting ready to paint those last pieces on the front of the engine, well 2 hours later 1 piece is ready to paint! 20231002_140803.jpgSpent most of the day on this tiny job, did manage to touch up the bashed in spots on the sway bar while I was at it.
Do have some small touch ups on the blue, by the freeze plugs the tape peeled some paint, Boo who! 20231002_164104.jpg


Did notice this while I was spinning the motor, a chunk of the rubber is missing, is this a problem?

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