Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

OK, Me needs to find a bushing, I'll have to look at the washers, not sure there was curly one in the hardware.
At least your book shows the little goodies, I only saw the one pic I posted on it?

My orig. 74 back in the day was a T handle/ slap stick.
It was an awakening when I got this 74 & put it in low & mashed it & then slapped it into neutral!
Easy way to loose am engine!
 
Hmmmmmmm gotta see if I can find the shifter that came with the car might get lucky on that bushing?

printed your page, that will be with me when I try & put it back together, thank you.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Hmmmmmmm gotta see if I can find the shifter that came with the car might get lucky on that bushing?
Click to expand...
The ratcheting gate on the Slap Stick is the only difference between the two shifters. It's literally just a piece of metal and a spring. All the other parts interchange. That bezel and basic shifter mechanism were used through 1979 on the B-bodies and 1980 on the Aspolare Twins, although both versions had a taller handle and lacked the "Slap" ratchet.
 
Oh my, getting lucky 2 days in a row, I better quit while I'm ahead!
So after digging around a while I could not find the shifter, it may have gone to the bone yard with that last truck load.
But I did find a curved washer in the setup I bought to get the slapstick.
In that box was also the top rod, for some reason I picked it up & there at the end that was buried was the bushing & the hardware! 20230918_113017.jpg
So I dragged that all outside along with my book & your (thanks Doc) printout & started to assemble
Washer, bushing, outside & washer & clip inside...............20230918_122932.jpg
Bottom up, washer spring washer bushing washer & cotter pin...............................
20230918_123514.jpg
Only thing I can't figure out is that spring, 20230918_122948.jpgany where I hook it on the brace it just falls off when you shigt.................

When I put it in the notch that looks like where it should be it stays in but doesn't seem to do much???
20230918_123403.jpg
Finally, I went around & cut away the mat where the seat holes are & the seat belt holes, also made a few slits where it didn't lay down well?
Seem like a lot of wire on my console light, the one from the dash plugs into it, but with both I could mount it in the trunk?
Does it actually go elsewhere under the dash.
Hey maybe my new wiring diagram will be useful when it gets here!
20230918_125554.jpg
 
K, door switches arrived, I'll have an extra there too, just need the one.
20230918_175159.jpg
& the wiring diagram, charger mann recco'd, said much easier to trace with the color code, gotta put my specs on later & see where they show all our crazy #'s. 20230918_175120.jpg
 
another 20 bucks wasted,

checked a few of the ones we were working on, most are different that what we found.
they have
9 going directly to the starter relay
19 to the washer motor
20 to the A/C compressor
4 to the blower motor
24 to the parking brake & low warning light.

Not one agrees with our work, I guess I could frame it for posterity!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
another 20 bucks wasted,

checked a few of the ones we were working on, most are different that what we found.
they have
9 going directly to the starter relay
19 to the washer motor
20 to the A/C compressor
4 to the blower motor
24 to the parking brake & low warning light.

Not one agrees with our work, I guess I could frame it for posterity!
Click to expand...
I only had a second to look at it at work, but I thought "Well, the tach isn't shown going through #4, and there's no interlock override shown in the engine bay... not good." After thinking about it while I was outside cutting up part of a Challenger, it occurred to me it's just a '73 diagram with the '74 interlock wire color codes on that inset in the upper right corner. No diagram of how they're tied into the system.
 
Getting back to your axle shafts real quickly:

The small seals install with the wheel bearings, between them and the retainer plate. The metal gasket goes between the retainer plate and the axle housing, and the foam gasket goes between the brake backing plate and the retainer plate.

When you get your wheel bearings replaced, make sure they're done by someone who's familiar with the 8-3/4" axle, or at least can read your '73 FSM to get it right. Those small seals are easily installed backward, which nearly pushes grease out. Fixing that usually means destroying at the very least the pressed-on locking collars, if not the bearings themselves. It's an expensive boo-boo. I don't think the locking collars are available separately.
 
crapo, bearings are on, got em back a week or so ago, I'll have to unpack them & see what's there?
He did stress about a lot of them being done backwards, but I think he was talking about the bearings themselves.
I'll take a few pics, he even strapped them up so the weight wouldn't be on the collar while standing & waiting for install?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
crapo, bearings are on, got em back a week or so ago, I'll have to unpack them & see what's there?
He did stress about a lot of them being done backwards, but I think he was talking about the bearings themselves.
I'll take a few pics, he even strapped them up so the weight wouldn't be on the collar while standing & waiting for install?
Click to expand...
Did he give you a bill? Are there seals on it?

If not, call him and ask. It sounds like he knew his game, but better safe than rear brakes destroyed by grease!

Also, once the axles are installed, adjust the bearings before you start rolling the car around (you need to drive it to complete the procedure, but you can at least do the first, most-important part). I just slid them into my Valiant and bolted the retainers because it wasn't getting driven anytime soon. That car has two blasts across a short parking lot, a bit of movement from stall to stall at work, and on/off the trailer a few times. I don't think it's traveled more than a football field total, and the bearings are junk. Learn from my stupidity.
 
I will check the book on that. He did mention a few turns & snugs & repeat before I set the end play.
we bought a complete kit, he also had some parts he ordered before we reverted to the kit because he couldn't get something he needed, maybe he used those instead of the ones in the kit, can you tell by looking?pics? or are they now hidden in there?
 
Looking at the picture you posted with the four seals, none of those are outer seals. One even has the part number for the ones that go in the axle housing (inners). The outers are National #8704S and look like this:

61H4wr-MwdL._AC_SL1500_.jpg



The inners have a very slight ridge that positions them in the housing. If you have a seal puller or a slide hammer with a hook, that should do it. I honestly can't remember how I got 'em out last time... it's been a few years.
 
Further trying to catch up on older questions, the spring on your shifter linkage is largely an anti-rattler. It doesn't do much except hold tension against the various linkage parts. It appears you've got it installed correctly in the last picture of it.
 
I wonder now if those kits are for more than one housing & they give both, I'll have a good look at the bearings tomorrow, my guy has been pretty good over the years, I think & hope he did it right!

OK, the spring seemed kinda useless, but if it's only anti rattle than I feel better!

I have charger mans tools here, I'll call him tomorrow & see if he has a puller in his giant stash!

When this is over I will make up a nice package of any new extra parts, gaskets, rubbers & plugs & maybe some of the extra hardware I cleaned up, you have a couple of E bodies maybe some of it will be helpful in your future!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
I wonder now if those kits are for more than one housing & they give both, I'll have a good look at the bearings tomorrow, my guy has been pretty good over the years, I think & hope he did it right!
Click to expand...
Other than 1964 and older cars with the tapered & keyed axle shafts, the housing ends are the same (and shared with the passenger-car Dana 60). The early bearings have to be pieced together (they're not sold as a set), plus all the parts are different, so it's doubtful anyone sells a kit with both early and late parts together. Also, it would be brutally expensive (figure $300 or so).
 
I got raped, I think I paid a little over 400.
He gave me the set to buy, there was a part in it that no one else showed, can't remember what piece it was!
 
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