Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

74DartSport said:
Doctor what McMaster # you using?
9709T29 ?
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That's the stuff. Nice work! It's gone up almost $5/sheet since I bought it, but I don't expect DynaMat or its ilk have gotten any less expensive.

I also bought a bunch of other sound deadening stuff from them, if for no other reason than experimentation.

RUSTY Cuda said:
So basically your just gonna pull the coil out & hide your jumpers in the box, Cool idea.
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I don't even think I'll go that far, to be honest. I'm pretty sure I can work around the guts with wire and solder.

RUSTY Cuda said:
heading out there in a while I'll look through my engine bay boxes, I don't remember that & from the pics it was long gone, but I bought a bunch of ebay used parts when building the other car maybe one was thrown in with those?
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You're more than welcome to mine, of course. I thought maybe you had a better one lying around, but after seeing your pre-teardown photos and the mess that was made of your wiring, I'd be surprised if you got one with the car.
 
No luck on the switch.
here's that extra hole, just in front of the seats same spot on the other side too.
20230915_134758.jpgBut I did find those distributor parts, I don't think I have the skills to make one out of these, the new one will be nice to just drop in!20230915_140343.jpg
I have a nice new non-clutch fan mount that I bought by accident for the other car, did get a clutch fan for that, now on this car there's an aluminum flex fan, with that darn extender that's still stuck to my water pump.
I tapped on it a bit, the pulley is free it moves a bit, is there some fastener down the middle hole or is it just stuck to the pump, it seems to turn it when I spin it? 20230915_141817.jpgWhat are the chances of getting a stock fan blade for it & then could I use that mount or would I have to find a clutch type? 20230915_140211.jpg
If I don't use it & anyone here could I'll ship it off!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
So I have 2 holes in the front floor pans about 8 or so inches in front of the hole for the seat base, there were no plugs that size in the kit does something go here, it's on both sides in front of the outer seat base.
any ideas on fabing up a plug if I need to?
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My Duster's floor was polluted with unused holes. I used dum-dum (strip caulk) to plug them. An old HVAC hand like you might even have some laying around.
 
That stock is long gone, I think I have a little left from the heater box, I might make a sheet metal cover with a zip screw & put the goop under it.

not much with the car, I did stick the other rear pipe in, this one has quite an angle where the muffler goes, tip is pretty close, I hope that's gonna line up.20230915_152904.jpgthe rest of the system! 20230915_153309.jpg
 
Looking at reproduction floor pans, they have holes in similar locations but it's much larger, probably over 1" diameter. It looks like those holes were drains for the dipping process. Woe to us with 1974 models; believe it or not, a lot of this stuff is 1974-only. I know '74 used a specific trunk pan and floors, but I don't know what the difference was. I believe the RH inner fender was different as well.

There were no pipe hangers or any such nonsense up that far, so those holes had to have been plugged at one point. You may have gotten plugs in the kit that are too large, since reproduction companies treat all '71-'74 E-bodies as the same, despite differences over the years. I know the RH inner fender changed at least one, possibly twice during that time.

I checked today and I did indeed order 1974 dash and forward-lamp harnesses from Year One. Those'll go back, as is the reproduction 1974-only AC harness I also apparently bought. I'm going to switch everything to the 1973 arrangement, which I know and love.
 
Well I saved some old floor plugs, I'll dig through those & see if that size is there & good shape (I doubt it) if not I'll make some sheet metal covers & squish some kind of sealant under them!
 
I wanted to run over to my storage area again tonight for a couple of reasons, but while I was there my curiosity got the better of me. Here's the same area on my parts '74 (and I assure you, it's the original floor! :ROFLMAO:):

100_5666.JPG

It's filthy but you can clearly see the large hole with the grey plug in the same area about which you're asking. This is the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same (except for the missing plug).
 
Oh, yeah, Rusty... I took a picture of the 1974 VIN decal on my '71's driver's-side door for you, too. The VIN is only about 3,500 lower than yours in sequence at the same assembly plant in the same model year. The car from which that door originated was built 01/08/74, meaning your car is most likely a late-December build.

100_5654.JPG


Going back to the ground strap you found in your parts box with the rubber shield on it: Here's where it is on my '74, still bolted to a specific bracket welded to the firewall (visible if you zoom in on the picture). The other end was under the lowest fastener on the wiper motor; I removed it from there. Talking to Kev the other night, he seemed to think that's where it was supposed to go.

100_5667E.jpg
 
Well I have that bracket on mine, mine was from the motor to one of the voltage regulator bolts

on the 73 I remember engine to firewall but don't remember where? DSC07216.JPG
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
OK, gotta find or make a plug!
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What's strange is that the holes in my floor appear to be much larger than those in yours. Those plugs were gray plastic originally; they're not faded or anything.

RUSTY Cuda said:
Well I have that bracket on mine, mine was from the motor to one of the voltage regulator bolts
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I don't think it would've gone to the VR bolt originally, but that's been done many times to attempt to remedy a charging issue, since the regulator grounds through its case. That would also explain that added home-grown lookin' ground wire.

The service manual shows the wiper motor as case-grounded as well as having a ground wire, but as I recall the motor itself is mounted on rubber grommets. Looking back at the firewall picture I took last night, there appears to be a built-in ground strap between the wiper gearbox and the upper-left mounting bolt. There also appears to be some other sort of ground wire at the lower bolt--where my strap was bolted.
The integral ground strap is in the yellow circle, and the possible other ground wire is in the area indicated by the red arrow:

WiperGND2.jpg


If you look back at the larger firewall photo in my previous post, the bend/kink in the ground indicates that it was bolted to the wiper motor for quite some time. By no means am I'm saying that's correct. It was there long enough to literally take the shape of how it was hanging.
While the firewall wiring is remarkably untouched on my car, the wiring on the engine itself was a comedy of errors, so it's no reference point. In fact, I took the braided ground strap off the wiper motor because I assumed it was bolted to the engine!

RUSTY Cuda said:
on the 73 I remember engine to firewall but don't remember where?
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It would almost have to be that bracket welded to the firewall. I can't think of any other function a 1-bolt bracket like that would serve.
 
Actually, that one's grounded to the ECU instead of the voltage regulator. It's also clearly not the factory strap, since that one's copper (or at least copper-plated).
 
Jumping all over the place today, started thinking I would try the rear end seals, didn't get too far, now I've never done this before, how do you get the oled ones out, I have a slide hammer available but could figure a way to rig it up?20230917_125432.jpg
the kit came with 2 sets of seals, the the bigger one seems to start in the hole for it? I think I can find something to pound the new one in.
20230917_125504.jpgWhat are the little ones for ? 20230917_125610.jpg
2 gaskets too, looking at the book they seem to go on top of each other, I thought the foam was for the backing plate? 20230917_125716.jpg
 
So I may have junked a perfectly good engine hoist, when I untarped it today the much newer jack was down laying on the engine, the whole mess sitting on my shaky home made table!

I gotta get this motor in the car before I have a disaster!

So the reason to even go in there was to jack it up pretty high & measure to see how low the car had to go. measured when I think I was close to max height the tail piece was 42" off the ground.
Rad support was at 50", oh my.
So I figured I'd better do a few notches at a time, could barley get my jack under the rails with the stands in there & then no where near high enough, I guess I should not have gone that high off the rotis.
Up front I used the cross member to lift it, with 3 flat 2x6 for height, not too shaky! , set that down 2 notches.
could not get on it down low at all in the rear, sooooooo, now we're getting SHAKY, about every scrap of wood I could find. 20230917_134933.jpg
Dropped that 2 notches, got lucky on the other side when I did the front it lifted the back at the same time.
2 hot sweaty hours later it's all the way down in the front & up a couple in the back.
After the last drop, the rear jacks set to the same hight, the passenger side rear is floating in the air, had to raise that side one notch, hope it's the ground that's that far off!

Raked for race trim! 20230917_143412.jpg
Rad support is around 36" now, should work?
 
So that drove me into the A/c.
Pulled out the shifter junk, that could go in now & I have to figure what kind of hole I need in the sound deadener. 20230917_153504.jpg
Damn, I don't remember how any of this goes!
So I pull out the book & it starts to make sense20230917_154814.jpgBut I also notice I seem to be missing a spring. I remembered when I bought the slap stick (the car had non slap, which I didn't even knew existed till the first test ride when I slapped it into neutral)
It came with everything even the mounting brackets, so I hunted that down & holy crap the sping was there, is my luck changing, or are they giving me a break before the next shoe drops! 20230917_155359.jpg
One thing didn't seem right, there's an awful big hole where ( I think ) the rod connects to the shifter? 20230917_154657.jpg
 
There's a plastic bushing that snaps into the shifter. Between the shift rod and bushing, there's belleville spring (a curved washer). On the back side, there's a flat washer that slips over the shift rod and a "hairpin" clip that goes through the hole in the shift rod. The diagram shows the walnut-knob shifter, which is what your car would've had new, but the only difference is the knob itself and the shaft in the mechanism.

SlapStik.jpg


1974 models got the walnut-grained knob, not the T-handle, although some very-early cars (possibly into September) could have been built with T-handles. It's shown in the brochures and is the only console shifter handle shown in the 1974 parts manual (2950713) regardless of model (Chargers, Road Runners, Dusters, etc.). Every untouched console-equipped '74 I've ever seen had the walnut knob. My good '74 had a T-handle in it, but A) it was far from untouched, and B) the sequence number is 1064xx, which would indicate an extremely-early build.

Personally, I prefer the T-handle if I happen to find myself saddled with an automatic. Luckily, I don't. :LOL:
 
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