Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

I guess I will find out, if there a normal item they were gone on the 73, but that was originally a 318 car.
It had a 360 when I got it, w/headers so they might have been removed!
 
carb plate arrived, studs BO'd to sept. 11 ? 20230823_132048.jpgSo I laid out the sound deadener, I kinda wish it was just the jute like padding I got with the other carpet.
many holes to cut, the tunnel dotted lines don't seem to line up with much & there none around the hole for the shifter rod through the floor? 20230824_132606.jpg20230824_132616.jpg20230824_132630.jpg
then I attempted to adjust the quarter window a bit, that turned into a 2 hour project, just as I had it close I pushed back on it to adjust the last bolt & the bottom bolt on the glass bracket popped out!
Managed to get it back in only to find the threads stripped.
Removed the glass & into the shop, found the next size bolt, just a tad longer. Drilled & tapped the bracket for it & figured I'd use lock tight for the "stop" 20230824_142045.jpgGot the whole thing in & then discovered it was flopping around a bit, bolt back in the shop, could not find anything to sleeve it with so I cut 1/4 inch off some black tape & used that! 20230824_145944.jpgPut it in AGAIN & she still has a little play but the glass is close now, the bottom of my door needs to come out a little so till I get that sorted out I won't mess with the glass.
A little better than before! 20230824_150913.jpg
 
Last edited:
Didn't do anything on the car yet I had a great car day!
I called the glass guy & actually was surprised how fast they were, it's going in monday, 385 +tax, which I thought was pretty good!
& the rock auto order came, all in one box for a change, but darn, it is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO nice to see shiny new parts I don't have to clean up.

Should I clear coat any of these parts?
20230825_145347.jpg

Now I have to get the dash in over the weekend.
 
There be a dash!
thr dash is in, now I'm thinking I should have put the pedals in first, oh well I'll see if this old body can twist around a bit, got the fuse block on the firewall, no gasket for that? there was none in the firewall gasket kit & not listed on the contents list.

dimmer switch in, speaker wires run to the back I had like 6' extra on each, guess better than 6" short!

One issue already, went to hook up the door switch & one of the male studs actually was in the female on the wire, will it just slide back in the switch or do I need a new switch?

Gonna be digging up small parts & hardware for weeks now! 20230826_132049.jpg20230826_132107.jpg20230826_132129.jpg
Now windshield is going in Monday, this looks awful close to where a ton of black goop is going, should I tape off the front of my nice new pad?
Will masking tape hurt or mark the pad? 20230826_132216.jpg
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Now windshield is going in Monday, this looks awful close to where a ton of black goop is going, should I tape off the front of my nice new pad?
Will masking tape hurt or mark the pad?
Click to expand...
Do you think you'll be able to reach up there and peal off tape after it's gooped down? 😆
Most windshields are installed using a butyl rope,...no mess.
 
That is a glass in gasket deal, right? I just hope you have a different outcome than I did when I tried to hire a glass installer to install a windshield. The guy showed up with no gasket and no idea he even needed one. I sent him away.

In the end Gina and I put that one in. We didn't do anything special to protect the dash. You really don't want sealant on the inside anyway. The idea is to keep water out, not to stop it after it's in.
 
68, Not sure how tight the glass goes to the pad, I do remember the swivels involved to get those bolts out, that's why I put it in first!
Now that I look at the pic again it looks tight, I guess I'll have to trust the guy.

I was thinking of pulling the fenders off too, there just on with 3 bolts each now.

BBB, I don't think mine gets a gasket, on the 73 the guy tried rolling out some foam looking thing, the glass was set too high & I couldn't get the trim on, he came back & just used the goop?

I have a new guy coming my mechanic recommended, how much experience on old cars he has is unknown?

Guess I'll find out monday.
 
68R/T said:
Most windshields are installed using a butyl rope,...no mess.
Click to expand...
Yep. The black goo is what the butyl rope eventually becomes with time.

b-body-bob said:
That is a glass in gasket deal, right? I just hope you have a different outcome than I did when I tried to hire a glass installer to install a windshield. The guy showed up with no gasket and no idea he even needed one. I sent him away.
Click to expand...
A-bodies and B-bodies through 1970 use a gasket. I believe pre-fuselage (1968 & older) C-bodies do as well, while 1969-'70 C-bodies use a specific butyl (probably a thickness difference). After those, everything used butyl rope, which is so easy I've done a couple by myself. The least fun is handling the glass by oneself, since you really don't get another shot at it and old glass breaks easily. Still, I've never had a leak. With two people, it's a virtual cakewalk.

RUSTY Cuda said:
BBB, I don't think mine gets a gasket, on the 73 the guy tried rolling out some foam looking thing, the glass was set too high & I couldn't get the trim on, he came back & just used the goop?
Click to expand...
It sounds like that guy tried to use quick-set urethane, which came along after butyl and really isn't backward compatible. It works in a pinch, obviously. The butyl automatically sets the height of the windshield in relation to the frame on which it fits, and comes with setting blocks to position it correctly between the roof and cowl. The factory installation used six setting blocks and a rubber "spacer" ribbon; the latter rapidly degraded. The extra four setting blocks and the rubber spacer were deemed extraneous and haven't been serviced (or even used) in 40 years.

If you're using an original windshield, I believe 3M part #08611 is the 5/16" rope you need. Newer aftermarket glass is almost always thinner--mine is--requiring a 3/8" rope (08612) to be flush to the reveal mouldings. If you've got your original windshield lying around, you'd do well to measure its thickness to compare to the new glass. If you don't have the old glass, let me know. I have mine and can measure it.

Make sure your dash is positioned correctly. The glass shouldn't touch it a'tall. It's very close, but it doesn't contact anywhere. Lay a straightedge between the upper and lower windshield frame at several points to make sure there's clearance between the dash and where the glass will be. The glass dude is not going to stand around while you try to re-align the dash; he's got other appointments. He'll probably reschedule you, with a surcharge for the wasted first visit.
 
OK, original glass is gone!
I'll go out after dinner with the straight edge, it looks darn close?
It will be new glass will I piss the guy off if I ask for 3/8 rope?
 
Digging around to set up to get some parts on, brake pedal should be good to go, I got the new plastic bushings for that20230827_151234.jpgBut not for the gas pedal, mine are shredded on one side20230827_152913.jpgGood side up on the one off it & down on the other, 20230827_152924.jpgbad side up on both.

If I set it up with both going in from the right there's no play in the shaft, but the one on the right will just back out, would that wonderful goop glue hold in in, or maybe sleeve the shaft?

I guess the first question should be does anyone have a source for these? 20230827_153447.jpg
 
Dug out the speedo cable, want to get that in before the column goes in, same box had the rigged up pos cable & the ground strap, will clean that up a little & then see if I can rig the extra radio ground to it where it bolts into the fire wall! 20230827_160110.jpg20230827_160053.jpg
 
Holy crap, just spent over an hour trying to get that pad down, crowbar in the corners to get the side adjustments to bottom out & center punches to try & get the 4 by the window as low as they will go, lost the metal that held the U nut in by the vin tag, it's just spinning, will try & crawl under in the am & see if I can reach it?
It's friggen close everywhere & it has a bow up right in the middle of the front, that might still hit, I'm hoping the 3/8 inch goop is wide enough to clear?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
OK, original glass is gone!
I'll go out after dinner with the straight edge, it looks darn close?
It will be new glass will I piss the guy off if I ask for 3/8 rope?
Click to expand...
I just measured my OE glass v. the replacement, and the difference is about 1/16". The new glass measures approximately .180" thick where I measured (upper left corner). If yours is the same I'd recommend the thicker rope. That shouldn't piss him off--if he knows what he's doing he should have both widths in the truck with him. If he's going to use urethane instead of butyl, make sure he's got 3/8" setting blocks to space the windshield.

RUSTY Cuda said:
I guess the first question should be does anyone have a source for these?
Click to expand...
The factory part number was 2899351 (two required), but it's long gone and never superseded. The bushings were used on everything except A-bodies after 1970 and stayed the same through the end of the "first RWD" era, last being used on the 1989 M-bodies (Fifth Ave, Gran Fury, Diplomat). I was surprised to see they were ever serviced, since I've never had an accelerator pedal I felt needed attention. Anyhow, they're gone now. You could try taking measurements with a caliper and slogging through the bushing selection on McMaster-Carr's website.

RUSTY Cuda said:
Holy crap, just spent over an hour trying to get that pad down, crowbar in the corners to get the side adjustments to bottom out & center punches to try & get the 4 by the window as low as they will go, lost the metal that held the U nut in by the vin tag, it's just spinning, will try & crawl under in the am & see if I can reach it?
It's friggen close everywhere & it has a bow up right in the middle of the front, that might still hit, I'm hoping the 3/8 inch goop is wide enough to clear?
Click to expand...
I should've mentioned that, allowing for compression of the butyl and depending on its thickness, the glass will be about 1/4"-5/16" further out than the level of the windshield frame. Like I said, they're very close but they should not touch. Find a couple of hex nuts of the right thickness that you can tape to the windshield frame, then lay your straightedge across those.

74DartSport said:
Pretty sure all the A bodies use a windshield gasket. I have a NOS one in my pile o’parts.
Click to expand...
They do. I should've written that a bit more clearly. All A-bodies, as well as B-bodies through model-year 1970, use a gasket. '71-up B-bodies use butyl. The 1967 A-body gasket is a one-year unicorn, as are the mouldings and lock strip.
 
OK, glass guy seems to know what He's doing, no heads up from the office about the car so he had no tape on the truck, he said he could do it with goop or reschedule, we rescheduled.
He also knew the glass thickness was less & needed 3/8 tape, He also said he has the old school square tape not the new triangle stuff.
Coming back Wed.
It was good I broke the second U-nut on the drivers side, so I fought with getting a new one in that spot, on the last one all I could do was put the whole U-nut under the metal & tighten up, missed the hole a little but did at least grab some of the metal, how long that will stay is anyone's guess.

Here's that bow in the middle? 20230828_095043.jpgSo I put the washers 1/4" right there. Looks like it will clear fine20230828_094939.jpgCorners ok too! 20230828_094917.jpg
 
Everything looks good to me. Those washers are a good approximation of where the glass will actually sit.

I'm happy you got a glass guy that knows his stuff. Some of them would've just urethaned it in and left.

Oh, yeah, one more thing: If you need to install your reveal moulding clips, now would be the time. It's not as easy working around the glass.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top