Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

In the meantime I managed to get the drivers door glass in by myself. lines up nice with the roof seal, but I need some adjusting where it meets the quarter window, probably have to mess with both? 20230820_125653.jpgNow that starter wiring adaptor I showed earlier came off this starter I bought when I first got the 74, will I need it with the new proper cables?20230820_110313.jpg& finally when I was putting in the up stops, this piece popped off in my hand, could not figure out how & where to put it back, is it important? 20230820_131640.jpg
 
Oh yea I got out the tap & dye set & measured the starter bolt, it's a 7/16-14 teeth.
Was just talking to my friend & he doesn't think the hardware store will have it, I'll find out in a day or 2.
Measured the starter flange, that's 1/2" thick the bellhousing is 1"thick & it is drilled all the way through
Forgot to check for the 5 pin control!
 
Did a search for the stud, summit racing came up & has them
7/16-14 x 3/4 to 7/16-14 x 1 1/4 3.99
or 7/16-14x3/4 to 7/16-20 X 1 3/8 2.99
looks like a drop ship deal special order & they are dorman.

I did find a 7/16 nut with 14 teeth, didn't look for a 20.

So if the hardware store comes up empty I have a place to go & I need that carb adaptor from them too!
 
The Dorman number I found was 675-107. Retail on it is $2.39 here, but Dorman is always high on price. Check local auto supplies if the hardware store doesn't pan out (it should). Chances are if you order it from Summit, you'll have to buy 10 of them. Dorman doesn't sell 'em individually, nor does my warehouse.

The starter cable adapter may work on your car; the spacing on it is different than the spacing on the actual starter. Check it against the cable when you get it. On my 440, the adapter had to be removed because it hit the block. That's not an issue with the small-block engines.

Either of the distributors listed would be OK, I guess. They are all-new, after all, and Rick Ehrenberg at least has some reputation to uphold. The only difference appears to be the cap, which is either the cheaper black unit or the high-dielectric unvented tan alkyd cap, which is the correct factory color but not vented as original. The vent was a holdover from the points days, where not only was there the high heat of friction from the rubbing block, but the constant sparking of the points created ozone, which is electrically conductive. Venting the ozone helped reduce crossfire. NOS vented tan caps are big bucks last I checked.

I'm not sure which carb adapter you need; it looked like you had several of the steel divider plates that would work to seal the spread-bore intake, including two used ones in this photo and a brand-new one in this photo. All it has to do is cover the outer edges of the rear throttle bores enough that a gasket will seal. Being that all three appear to be steel, as long as they're flat you should be fine...

...as long as the front throttle blades clear the intake. I forgot about that bit. Double-check clearance by laying the steel plate on the intake and setting the carb on it as if it were installed. Don't bolt anything down. Now, holding the carb down with one hand, open the throttle all the way. Does the carb try to lift itself off the intake? If so, then you need Mr. Gasket adapter/spacer, part number 1932. Take a good look at it and check with your nearby car pals. There are millions of these lying around used; I think I have several.
 
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Crapo on the carb plate, I just 5 mins. ago ordered the edelbrock you suggested!
The studswere listed as 1 each for the above prices, I ordered both, I'm thinking my old carb nut may be 7/16 20 so I have both covered.

Funny when I went direct to summit the stud showed up & was sold in sets of 10, I guess I'll see in a few weeks what happens?
 
K, basic parts
Fuel pump, rock auto All show 2 fittings on the bottom? carter fuel pump.jpg
I can't even remember where they were hooked up, I guess one is the fuel line from the gas tank!
Found one pick of the pump & my hand was blocking the lines at the bottom, poop!
So choices if I buy one of these.
carter 14.69
delphi 15.53
us motor works 22.79
airtex 20.79
no problem paying more if it's a better product.

Now is there a part # / brand with just the one line & is that what I should order?



Forget this mess, it's not a return it goes to the carb, how I forgot or missed that, well I am getting a little senile!
So Just need the best brand to buy!
 
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Alternator, still rock auto
BBB #7509 $32/$48
That says NOT one wire capable? I'll probably just pay the core fee & not bother to send it back!
Remy 20153 also 32/48
no mention of the one wire thing
AC delco 51/56
Also no mention of the one wire thing.
 
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Mann my brain is fried!
So I go hunting fuel systems, ran across one that made the 2 lines on the pump make sense, the second one goes to the carb, how I forgot or missed that is beyond me.
Now I just need what brand to order.
& cap off the return at the sending unit & the rest should be as the factory had it, cept it really won't be hooked up without a port on the carb!
 
I'm not sure what you want in an alternator. There is no such thing as a stock 1-wire alternator; Mopars are all externally regulated. Other than overpriced/less-reliable Powermaster units, the only 1-wire alternators of which I'm aware are all GM-based (such as BBB/Genco part number 7127-1W) and would require bracket modifications.
I'm not sure why anyone would want one, with Chrysler's external regulator being a paragon of simplicity and reliability for which A) you're already wired and B) you already have the regulator. Internally-regulated alternators are much more failure-prone in my experience (remember, I used to run Pontiacs).
 
It was actually a little cheaper, by the time I checked on it, it already sold for 89!

Checked the module, 4 pins was on the car. Mr 340 also gave me one, it also has 4 pins.
while I was looking at the distributors a few came up all with 4 pins?
 
A 4-pin is fine. You can use the 4-pin module on the 5-pin wiring without issue. The reverse is not true, but since you're wired for 5 pins you'll be fine either way. Make sure the module is grounded well to the firewall.
 
Jass, I don't want one wire, I just want what ever was in there. I didn't know what it meant & why it was noted, that's why I put the note in there.
At this point I just need what brands are good & what to avoid!
 
OK got it, sorry I missed them!
gates on the water pump, BBB on the alt. & my friend thought carter was a good brand so I'll try them on the fuel pump.
those I'll order tonight, I'll wait on the dist. till I talk to Mr 340 & see what He's up to.
 
OK those 3 are ordered.
spent the last few days just going through boxes, trying to organize & pull out the trash, I'm going to have a ton of hardware left over.
here's the igi contril................20230821_155757.jpg
Cranks arrived today another back order filled, looks like I'll have extra crank screws too, it came with. 20230822_141606.jpgSo I pull the started adaptor to at least have it ready if needed, so I'm puzzled, it doesn't line up, but it looks suspiciously like what's there?
so I pull the cover off the base & sure enough ones on there already, now I don't know where the extra one came from.
I gotta start looking more closely at stuff, making too many stupid mistakes! 20230822_143242.jpg
 

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