RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Yea! My radio is on the way, just got the email, saved me from all those extra connectors I would have had to use to do it later, maybe she will be sealed up before winter!
Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress
- Thread starter mopar_man
- Start date
b-body-bob
Well-known member
If you're going to accomplish anything by taking those other core plugs out, I think you're going to end up stripping the motor down to the bare block. Those are the lifter oil galleys, so you'll need to take the front of the engine off to get the plugs on the other end out, and also remove the lifters so you can brush through the galley. Then there's the chance of pushing crud out of there and into other places. They're above the crank so maybe that would be OK, maybe not.
If you're not going to clean the galley, then you would just be taking the plugs out for the heck of it. So, I wouldn't recommend messing with them at this point.
On the extra plugs, at least two of them are on the other end of the oil galley behind the timing cover. I don't remember there being 3 of them behind the cover, and would have to dig through my photos to be sure.
If you're not going to clean the galley, then you would just be taking the plugs out for the heck of it. So, I wouldn't recommend messing with them at this point.
On the extra plugs, at least two of them are on the other end of the oil galley behind the timing cover. I don't remember there being 3 of them behind the cover, and would have to dig through my photos to be sure.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Dang I wasn't going to take that cover off, but with the condition of some of the other plugs I guess I better check those.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Hold on now, don't forget some freeze plugs are in coolant and will rust, others are in oil and won't.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
The front ones are in oil?
Then I may not mess with that, I'm doing the water pump just because I don't know how old that is.
Today I am going to try & order the complete exhaust system, there was a note at TTI that it doesn't clear a certain rear sway bar if they clear that up the order will go in.
Then I may not mess with that, I'm doing the water pump just because I don't know how old that is.
Today I am going to try & order the complete exhaust system, there was a note at TTI that it doesn't clear a certain rear sway bar if they clear that up the order will go in.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Yes that's the lifter galley running front to back so it's oil. Screw-in core plugs in the back, and drive-in freeze-out plugs in the front - the cam plate kind of holds them in. You should probably leave those alone.
That's going to put a dent in the old wallet.
I remember looking at exhaust parts from Accurate and shipping was insanely high, on top of the high priced parts.
That's going to put a dent in the old wallet.
I remember looking at exhaust parts from Accurate and shipping was insanely high, on top of the high priced parts.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
TTI was recommended, I'm going hunting now to compare, didn't know of accurate I'll check them too.
Think I'll be on the puter a while!
Think I'll be on the puter a while!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Ouchy! 2500 shipped, ceramic headers to welded on tips, had to order 2 brackets for behind the seat pan, not on my car? Supposed to be 100% bolt on & it does clear the factory sway bar.
about a weeks wait to ship.
about a weeks wait to ship.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Yeah pipe is cheap, it's the bending that costs so much. I may just put a header muffler under the A12 that dumps right before the rear end. I'd do the same for the Duster but it's got a good enough 2-1/2" setup on it.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Back in the day I put a motor in the 65 satellite, went to a mufler shop & the went from manifolds back, all custom bent I think it was a couple of hundred!
Then went to have headers done, I think that was 300 installed, but when the guy said if they don't fit I have to pay the labor I ran away, I think I was making 110 a week back then!
Then went to have headers done, I think that was 300 installed, but when the guy said if they don't fit I have to pay the labor I ran away, I think I was making 110 a week back then!
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
From the altitude at which the car is sitting, you might be better off to "body drop" the engine. Once you have it married to the transmission, permanently mount it to the K-member and bolt the trans mount and its little crossmember (leave the pivot bolt on the trans mount loose). Get all that into position and use the engine crane to lower the car onto the whole assembly. It's what the factory did. No worries about angles or core supports or driveshaft tunnels or dragging tailshafts.
You should have parts Thursday or Friday. I had more issues with a rocker shaft than expected. I'll send you the tracking number tomorrow--I forgot it at work.
You should have parts Thursday or Friday. I had more issues with a rocker shaft than expected. I'll send you the tracking number tomorrow--I forgot it at work.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I think I'm committed to a drop in, already built the front suspension, I can adjust the height of the car pretty easy, I guess I'll find out how bad an idea this is soon enough!
TTI said I could put the motor in that the headers will go in ok after, don't know what will come first?
Was at a bunch of dead ends, now with the radio, the exhaust & maybe even my axle bearings coming I won't know which way to jump!
Thanks on the parts, you have to let me know what I can send you!
Then Jass, did you happen to look at that adaptor on the second carb, it looks like what you described?
TTI said I could put the motor in that the headers will go in ok after, don't know what will come first?
Was at a bunch of dead ends, now with the radio, the exhaust & maybe even my axle bearings coming I won't know which way to jump!
Thanks on the parts, you have to let me know what I can send you!
Then Jass, did you happen to look at that adaptor on the second carb, it looks like what you described?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I thought you had already done all that. It's similar to my situation. It's hard to get motivated to take things back apart when you can keep marching forward, ain't it?
One thing you might miss with the car on stands is the ability to roll the car, but if you can move the hoist, maybe not.
I've never battled header installation when the engine/trans are going in as one piece, but the way I've done it when installing just the engine is:
Lay the headers in the engine bay, and start lowering the engine in. When it's almost sitting on top of them but you can still move the headers and the engine around, bolt the headers to the heads. Then set it the rest of the way in. You probably need to do that before bolting the trans mount/crossmember in place.
I've mentioned it before - getting the steering column out of the way is a good thing and it's not all that hard to do.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Steering Colum is out, I did put the steering box in, trying to just put in things that won't get in the way, but I really don't remember the order, I'm sure I'll be pulling something out that I did at the wrong time.
My Friend gave me an idea when I said I was changing the water pump, Leave it off till the motor is in, that much more clearance to work with!
When I pulled it apart, drivers side came out with engine still in, pass. side would not, I asked the guestion when ordering from TTI, He said they will go in later, I may just lay them in to be safe!
Rolling the lift won't be easy out there I have a few sheets of plywood I have to keep moving around to get to where I need to be, that won't be fun!
My Friend gave me an idea when I said I was changing the water pump, Leave it off till the motor is in, that much more clearance to work with!
When I pulled it apart, drivers side came out with engine still in, pass. side would not, I asked the guestion when ordering from TTI, He said they will go in later, I may just lay them in to be safe!
Rolling the lift won't be easy out there I have a few sheets of plywood I have to keep moving around to get to where I need to be, that won't be fun!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
There's also the POV of why would you want to lean all over the car to install things that you could've already done. Especially with all that nice paint work you've done.
Also, be thankful it's an E-body and not an A-body, and a small block not a big block.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Right now front end is just rad support, fenders are just hanging on 3 bolts.
I will have the whole front of the motor to build anyway, alt, steering pump, Rad, hoses & eventually the A/C compressor, which reminds me I have to get the radiator out to be recored!
Yes, I lost my shoehorn years ago, No Hemi's in my future!
I will have the whole front of the motor to build anyway, alt, steering pump, Rad, hoses & eventually the A/C compressor, which reminds me I have to get the radiator out to be recored!
Yes, I lost my shoehorn years ago, No Hemi's in my future!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
OK looking for parts, I used to just walk in the store & trade in for a rebuilt, should I just go to my local autozone?
Parts geek has most of what I can think of that I need, but many brands & prices. here's a few choices.
Water pump 1 SKP 57.98
2 Gates 31.43
3 GMB high proformance 66.75
4 GMB OE replacement 35.43
5 WJB 40.97
Alternator, 2 grove pulley 1 Pure energy 29.43 60 amp core charge 9
2 Remy 37.43 60 amp core charge 18.00
3 AC delco 91.43 core charge 5 (but out of stock!)
they have the brake booster check valve & pos battery cable I also need but only show one of each, so no choices there.
Oh yea, summit is the only place I found the edlebrock carb plate, they have a water pump I think 60 something but no alternator?
Parts geek has most of what I can think of that I need, but many brands & prices. here's a few choices.
Water pump 1 SKP 57.98
2 Gates 31.43
3 GMB high proformance 66.75
4 GMB OE replacement 35.43
5 WJB 40.97
Alternator, 2 grove pulley 1 Pure energy 29.43 60 amp core charge 9
2 Remy 37.43 60 amp core charge 18.00
3 AC delco 91.43 core charge 5 (but out of stock!)
they have the brake booster check valve & pos battery cable I also need but only show one of each, so no choices there.
Oh yea, summit is the only place I found the edlebrock carb plate, they have a water pump I think 60 something but no alternator?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
rockauto.com looks like they might be a little cheaper than the prices you listed.
I do try to buy some things locally since I can borrow tools from them.
I typically try for the mid-priced parts. They don't need to last forever, but they do need to last for 2 or 3 years. Jass is the man to tell you what to stay away from.
I do try to buy some things locally since I can borrow tools from them.
I typically try for the mid-priced parts. They don't need to last forever, but they do need to last for 2 or 3 years. Jass is the man to tell you what to stay away from.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Plenty of room in an E-body for a big block. It's essentially the same as a '71-'72 B-body. When I was young and (very) motivated, I could do a cam change on a 440 in about an hour, including the timing-cover seal.
With shipping being what it is, I think for anything heavy I'd shop locally. $18 core charge, $20 just to get it back?
Another thing to consider is the age of these alternators. Pert-near every one's probably been remanufactured twice by now, so being able to stomp into the local parts store and get a defective replaced in a day might just come in handy. It's a pretty solid argument for buying one locally for a few more bucks. We don't sell any of the brands you listed, so I can't speak to any of 'em in terms of quality except knowing Pure Energy is an overseas unit (yes, they literally ship them overseas to be remanufactured).
If they don't show a picture of the starter end of the battery cable, expect it to be very wrong. No current aftermarket cable that I'm able to find (Deka, Standard, United, Federal, etc.) has the correct starter end. They only show one lug; there are two at the starter. There are actually three separate wires to that cable. Expect to pay $100+ for one that won't both look like crap and make you pull your hair out.
The carb plates you pictured should work assuming they cover the rear openings on the intake sufficiently. They should, since they don't narrow along the sides nearly as much as the carb does.
This piece right here is the throttle-lever extension you need, so you've apparently already got that covered:
On the water pump, I'd stick with Gates. Of those listed, they're the only ones with a known brand name at stake. We carry those and GMB, but I'll sell the Gates every time I can.
With shipping being what it is, I think for anything heavy I'd shop locally. $18 core charge, $20 just to get it back?
Another thing to consider is the age of these alternators. Pert-near every one's probably been remanufactured twice by now, so being able to stomp into the local parts store and get a defective replaced in a day might just come in handy. It's a pretty solid argument for buying one locally for a few more bucks. We don't sell any of the brands you listed, so I can't speak to any of 'em in terms of quality except knowing Pure Energy is an overseas unit (yes, they literally ship them overseas to be remanufactured).If they don't show a picture of the starter end of the battery cable, expect it to be very wrong. No current aftermarket cable that I'm able to find (Deka, Standard, United, Federal, etc.) has the correct starter end. They only show one lug; there are two at the starter. There are actually three separate wires to that cable. Expect to pay $100+ for one that won't both look like crap and make you pull your hair out.
The carb plates you pictured should work assuming they cover the rear openings on the intake sufficiently. They should, since they don't narrow along the sides nearly as much as the carb does.
This piece right here is the throttle-lever extension you need, so you've apparently already got that covered:
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
If the battery cable doesn't look like this, it's gonna be a battle:
(I'm not plugging DCS, just showing you what it should look like!)
The small red wire from the battery terminal goes to the starter relay. The black wire goes from the starter relay to the starter, ending in that moulded piece with the other end of the large (4ga) red wire. The aftermarket cables do not have the black wire at all, nor do they have the moulded starter end. They also may or may not have the ring terminal for the starter relay.
This is one of those times when the extra money is probably worth the headaches saved. How many direct-to-battery-positive wires do you want to keep track of in your engine bay? One short and it'll burn to the ground.
(I'm not plugging DCS, just showing you what it should look like!)
The small red wire from the battery terminal goes to the starter relay. The black wire goes from the starter relay to the starter, ending in that moulded piece with the other end of the large (4ga) red wire. The aftermarket cables do not have the black wire at all, nor do they have the moulded starter end. They also may or may not have the ring terminal for the starter relay.
This is one of those times when the extra money is probably worth the headaches saved. How many direct-to-battery-positive wires do you want to keep track of in your engine bay? One short and it'll burn to the ground.
I've been selling BBB (formerly Genco) rotating electrical since 2006. They've been great, and when there is a problem they don't question it, they just cover the warranty. Their stated warranty is "3 years" but my current record here is them warrantying a starter after 12 years. There was no defect, it was just worn out (it lasted longer than the OE starter!). They supposedly only warranty diesel starters for six months, but I've warrantied a few after five years.