Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

RUSTY Cuda said:
Oh yea that Mahle gasket is supposed to be for the oil pump, which Don (Mr340 ) tells me there is none?
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That's the oil-pump cover gasket. If you're not disassembling your oil pump, you don't need it. There's already one in there.

There is a gasket available that goes between the pump and block, but whether it's required is definitely debatable. If Chrysler ever used one they never serviced it; it's not in any of the OE parts books I have. Some Fel-Pro and Mahle sets come with one, some don't--Mahle's "heavy duty high performace" set doesn't.
I use very thin dead-soft copper shims, more because of trust issues with modern replacement parts than with Chrysler's original setup. Is Hung Chow getting the surface finish right on the mating surface? Maybe yes, maybe no. I don't know the answer. Copper only 0.0125" thick won't affect anything clearance-wise, but will still conform to the surface with no fear of blow-out.
 
That should go in a fire engine!

She does look beauuuuutiful , rivet counter correct is not my goal, as close to original as possible, but with some concessions on parts used (carb for one) & I'm sticking with my black hardware theme, every nut & bolt I can get to will be black!
 
shows my lack of knowledge, they listed an oil pump gasket, I was taking it off to fix the pickup (which Don just texted me is all welded up already, I dropped it off at his shop today) so I ordered it (if there was a pic that might? have fixed my brain problem!)
 
Started outside today, the nasty engine cleanup, 20230610_145742.jpg
Not sure what was stopping me faster my arms about to fall off from running the drill or the sun baking me.
did manage to get one side fairly clean20230610_145721.jpg
The back I could get in a few spots, gonna hafta hang it back on the hoist to get the rest.20230610_145818.jpg
 
So I fired up the A/C in the garage & pulled the dash back down & pulled the bad switch, turned out pretty easy to switch out the bezels, while it was stripped dpwn I tried to touch up my lousy job on the letters, still not as crisp as I would like but a little better! 20230610_155133.jpg
Back in the dash20230610_161108.jpg
This burnt looking area with 2 loose wire connectors was the part I was worried about, gonna hafta take a close look at the harness end before I call it good to go! 20230610_153309.jpg
Put the rally bezel back together with the bad switch, maybe I can get a few bucks back on ebay?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
That should go in a fire engine!

She does look beauuuuutiful , rivet counter correct is not my goal, as close to original as possible, but with some concessions on parts used (carb for one)
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I wasn't looking for 100% correct either--not by a long shot. Have you actually seen what the Valiant looks like? I just wanted it to appear stock-looking in an attempt to camouflage the speed hardware as much as possible. I even painted the dual-feel fuel line for the carb red; it disappears into the background pretty well. I used OE-style Corbin clamps, too. Not only do they look stock, but with the right pliers, they're faster and easier than screw clamps.

RUSTY Cuda said:
I'm sticking with my black hardware theme, every nut & bolt I can get to will be black!
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Detailing like that sounds good in theory, but it doesn't really work on an engine. Imagine a P-51 Mustang. Now imagine it with every rivet painted black. Same effect. You'll have a blue engine with a bunch of black polka dots. I originally did something similar on my 440 when I first built it in 1992. I think it was running in the car about a month before I repainted the engine so all the hardware would match.

Note to future Rusty: If you're not using black-oxide plated fasteners, don't paint any of 'em until they're fully torqued. You're just going to be painting them again afterward anyhow. Being a contrasting color draws the eye to them, so the chipped paint will be the first thing anyone notices.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
So I fired up the A/C in the garage & pulled the dash back down & pulled the bad switch, turned out pretty easy to switch out the bezels, while it was stripped dpwn I tried to touch up my lousy job on the letters, still not as crisp as I would like but a little better!
This burnt looking area with 2 loose wire connectors was the part I was worried about, gonna hafta take a close look at the harness end before I call it good to go!
Put the rally bezel back together with the bad switch, maybe I can get a few bucks back on ebay?
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It looks much better. Did you paint the chrome trim on it silver? The chrome on those controls is fantastic. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't jealous.

I would guess the connector in the harness isn't any better than the one on the switch. Clean it up as good as you can, and make sure all your grounds are excellent when wiring everything behind the dash. Electrical gremlins are 90% ground issues; on these cars maybe 50% with the other 50% being at the bulkhead disconnect. Get some terminal cleaner and tiny wire brushes.
 
No it's actually white, I had a spray bomb of chrome but I never had much luck using it, for those I would have to spray it in a cup & brush it on, I had a white paint stick from my HO train hobby, better control for tiny stuff & I still messed it up a bit, in the end I thought it looked ok.
 
Note: the block is cast iron, and there's really no need to wire wheel it super clean. Get all the oil and loose rust off, give it a shot of epoxy primer and you're good to paint it. Light, hard-to-remove surface rust will actually help with paint adhesion.
 
Jass do you want that rally bezel, it's not perfect but pretty good, here's a closeup of it, I put the bad parts back in.20230611_134929.jpg
Click on it for close up!
 
Now thanks to Resto I'm calling one side ready for paint,,,,,,,,,,,20230611_123110.jpgStuffed rags in all the holes so I could remove my block off cover & get in the tight spots, still a tad of orange here & there.
So I removed the lower fan pulley & the fuel pump, the upper pulley has no bolts but it's stuck on there tight (can't remove by hand) do I dare take a hammer to it & with a stock shroud will I be using that extender out front, the 73 did not have one?20230611_123133.jpg20230611_123145.jpgStarted cleaning up the pulley, made a few clean spots, getting down the slotsis gonna be fun, wish this would have fit in the tumbler! 20230611_144137.jpg20230611_144147.jpgDon't know how I thought I was done with the nasty cleanup work, but the more I look around the more I find!
So I had out every abrasive dohickie I own & still had some trouble with the nooks & crannies! 20230611_123100.jpg
 
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RUSTY Cuda said:
Jass do you want that rally bezel, it's not perfect but pretty good, here's a closeup of it, I put the bad parts back in.View attachment 25474
Click on it for close up!
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I already have a new reproduction, so I don't really need it. I was going to swap you for my non-Rallye unit (I do prefer original parts), but it seems like you've got that covered now. If you can recover some of your cash from eBay, go for it. I appreciate the offer, though.
 
Supposed to rain today, got my butt up a little early, wow breakfast before noon, retirement is nice!
Anywhoo, the plan is to work the other side a bit more & mix up some eastwood metal wash & spray what I finish before the rain, not sure about cast but the tin would turn orange if you shed a tear near it?
Trying to hold off on paint till I get the freeze out plugs done.
 
OK more questions, I thought it would be simple to order a dip stick, now I feel like a dip stick!
Year one shows 4
1) Trans Dapt chrome oil dipstick just says small block V8 12.95 part # TD9224
2) Milodon says small block with center sump oil pan 87.95 part # MD1445
3) Reproduction mopar small block 60.23 part # DST340
4) No Name says fits LA engines 31.95 Part # P4349628

So which one should I buy?
 
Pretty much finished off the other side of the motor then prepared for the rain which still hasn't come yet, this time I want it the grass needs a drink!
Moved inside & finished off cleaning that pulley. Ended up screwing it to my bench to get as much into the groves as possible, the belts will do the rest!20230612_163129.jpg
One side painted & Cleared in the front, no sense going in the grooves. 20230612_170518.jpg

Oh yea, I tapped on that pulley, now the rear belt part moves around but the extender is still hooked to the water pump, maybe there's a screw down the center hole, but I can't see anything
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Soon I'm going to attempt the freeze out plugs you guys have any tips or tricks or DON"T DO THAT"S for a first timer!
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My normal technique is; with a drift punch, tap an outer spot to turn the plug sideways. Then pull it out with a pliers. To install new, find a socket that fits near snug inside the plug. Then tap it in until just beyond flush. Make huge effort to always keep it square. Some guys like to add a sealant the the outer edge of the plug, but I've never had a leaker.
 
Thanks 68, I think I'll order a tube of the copper goop just to be safe.
So after leaving another message on the board the other day I finally made the call to ABC Moparts, just got a machine & left my info, now we wait!
Now I ground off the back of the rivets & got my plate off I have to ask, is there any sane reason why I should order 2 20cent rivets for $48 ?????????
I have left over a whole box of rivets that fit from work? 20230613_135532.jpg

Anyone have any input on that oil dipstick deal?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Anyone have any input on that oil dipstick deal?
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Yeah, those prices are freaking insane.

I measured mine at one point "I measured 11" exactly outside the block for the tube, about 21-1/4" inside the tube for the stick" I think what I was trying to say was from the bulge on the tube to the top, it's 11". The stick itself from the tip to the bulge is 21-1/4"

From the tip of the stick to the add mark it's 1-1/8" full is 1/2 above that.

Maybe that will help.
 
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