On the bezel, my chrome was gone too, that's white paint on mine, you letters look pretty good, I did a lousy job of touching up mine, so if you don't need it I will take the whole thing or if you need the rally one we can do a trade, I'm in that thing for 250, is that a fair trade?
Here are some better pictures of mine, taken at short range. They'll expand to near-gynecological detail if you click on 'em.
You can see the letters are far from perfect, the chrome around the edge is pretty worn, and the chrome on the controls themselves isn't great. Additionally, the blower switch is gritty-feeling and pretty clunky through its travel. By comparison, yours are absolutely gorgeous, so I don't feel a trade would be fair to you. I would feel much better about trading just the housings themselves, with each of us keeping the controls we have (blower switch, slider lever, control buttons and switch). I'm not afraid to disassemble the blower switch and attempt a repair, but I'd rather it was for my use in the event it doesn't last.
I had a friend stop and pick up some paint for me today, so I'm going to attempt to restore the bezel after I pull the controls from it and give it a good cleaning. I know I can get the letters near perfect (I developed a knack for painting raised detail years ago) and I think I can do something about the chrome too. Let me see what I can do with this thing; I'll post pictures of the results. If you like it, we'll trade.
I didn't even know there was such a thing.
I've stripped the timing cover and oil pain, and just bought plain old etching primer to hit it with before shooting it with Dupli-Color. I don't expect that to cause a problem - right? I don't plan to prime the block at all.
VHT and Dupli-Color also make high-temperature primers. I can't comment on 'em as I've never had a problem going direct-to-metal with engine paint in the past, other than aluminum parts. The alloy stuff gets baked in the oven, then etch-primed while still warm. Depending on how motivated I'm feeling, I may warm them again prior to paint, then again after painting to bake the finish. I get a little over-the-top with it sometimes, but the results are worth it, particularly in their durability. Some parts I've done are old enough to vote and still look really good after years of use. Hell, Not a Duster's rear axle assembly, brake parts and all, are old enough to
drink.
I made the snap decision to paint mine orange just now, since I was in the parts store and it was right there in front of me. I'm skeptical of blue looking right with the Air Gap and E-heads.
Orange would be the color used on a '71 340, whilst blue would be for a 318. If you're leaving the heads and intake in raw aluminum or clear coating them, color really won't make much difference. The engine itself is no longer the focal point of the engine bay, only the heads and intake are. I would definitely clear-coat those, because it won't take long for them to start showing grime and dinge. Painted aluminum is much easier to clean and keep looking pretty, and soap/water are much better than any aerosol solvent, which just drives grease and oil further into aluminum's pores.
Well I think the surface is rough now by any standard, but I seem to find a way to mess up almost any paint job!
Your finish looks plenty rough, but I'd still use etch primer on any formerly-chrome parts just for added insurance. Go over the smooth surfaces with a brown Scotch-Brite pad, then clean everything with lacquer thinner or acetone. For best results, wipe down smooth stuff with a tack cloth (just like you would painting a fender) and dab at the rough-cast surfaces with one. Prime and paint to your heart's content. Unlike the interior plastics, this stuff shouldn't give you any trouble. I would suggest doing test patterns on cardboard or an old body panel just to get a feel for how each can sprays.
If you have anything made by Krylon, expect substandard if not disastrous results. I used to use it a lot, but their quality has completely tanked in the last several years. After the debacle that was painting my W2 engine's oil pan and valve covers, I will never buy that garbage again.
the A/C parts I don't think ever were on a car, they look brandy new
So even though it still hurts a bit I do feel a little better, now if only I had gotten the right switch bezel!
at least I taped off the rubbers, the other guy painted over everything! 
2 coats a prime & 3 of the blue, blue thru a whole can of blue, maybe my 2 light coats weren't that light? 
I guess now I'll have to start on the block!
