Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

The tumbler will do well for the stamped rockers. Been there already myself.

The cracked stud boss is one of the two for the coil. The other one has a bolt in it, almost directly behind it and lower in height. You could probably get away with stacked Heli-Coils in the cracked one to effect a repair if you were so inclined. If you're not going to keep it, you can leave it to the next guy. The Strip Dominator is an excellent intake manifold. It's a little more intake than you probably want, but it's inherently valuable. Give it a good scrubbing/bead blast job and it's far more valuable than a stock intake to most people.

Obviously, there's only one truly "stock" manifold for your application, meaning the actual casting number for that year. That being said, anything '71-up would look right. The '74-newer applications have an EGR flange, which can be blocked easily (you could even leave the valve in place and just not connect the hose). There's also an EGR standpipe in the plenum floor, which unscrews and can be replaced by an NPT plug. Once those are handled, even the late 1980s versions (offset small thermostat) are very good manifolds. I believe '80 or '81 is the first year for the offset Chev-sized thermostat, so anything 1971-'79 would perform nearly the same and look pretty correct. Other than the potential cost, I'd avoid the '71 intake for one reason: The divorced choke has a sheetmetal cup underneath it, which commonly rots. It's the only thing blocking the heat crossover from the choke and an annoying exhaust leak. Stick with the '72-newer units.

Any hydraulic pushrod application from 273-360 is going to be the same, with the exception of the oddball 1970 340 Six Pack pushrods (cup end). All the longer pushrods will really accomplish is adding lifter preload. There's already plenty. The number I gave I looked up at Jeg's, but I assume Summit would have them as well. I don't see a lot of reason to spend a ton on pushrods. If you can get nicer ones than the Comps I posted, like chromoly and/or seamless for ~$75 or less, by all means go for it. I think the Comps will be fine in this application.
 
Yes that was the last oversize one I posted I didn't know if that extra length was an issue, piece of mind for an extra 100 on the set is worth it.
I'll wait for Jass to chime in before I order.
I'll see what summit says about his part # it may be the same thing?



OK rockers cleaned up nice, the tumbler is really a labor saver.
One spot on the shaft had minor pitting I assume under that one rocker with the rust stain, don't see any pitting there is this something I have to worry about?

pitting back rod 2nd small hole up from bottom.
20230525_162659.jpg
 
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summits are comp cams rods same 5/16 dia & reg length 7.500
50 bucks for the set.

K, that's the HiPo one I found I added the part # to the above post about it.
 
Can't see the inside of the 8 rockers on the right but #6 from the top is ugly and #1 and #2 look to have gouges.

If you can feel any pitting on the shaft for #6 I would replace it.
 
I agree #6 at the least needs more tumbler time, but I didn't see any issue with the others. I would replace the shaft on the right based on the heavy pitting near the bottom of the photo. It's right where all the other positions show their wear pattern--that will absolutely damage the rocker arm.
 
OK 1 shaft, & I'll throw that rocker back in the tumbler, looking at itclose uo there might be some pitting in there, I 'l also look atthe bottom pf the others but I think I left the bad one up to show it & the rest were good.
Now I Just noticed there are 2 different #'s on the rockers, is that intake & exhaust markings?

Jass, did you see the part about the pushrods, what do you think?
 
Oh the pain in my wallet, found a couple of parts I need on ebay .
heat A/c selector $275
A/C dash vents I need both $825
Drivers side A/C duct nice one $285
one with a little wear in one spot & no flap over the holes for my feet I guess? $239
All the same seller.
that may bring the pad back to ABS core, 3000 just for the dash is getting a bit nuts!

The switch I may jump on just as hard to find as the vents, the vents are a hard pill to swallow I gotta look around some more & pray I get lucky
What do you guys think about the duct?
 
I would offer the factory rockers and shafts off my engine but TBH I'm considering keeping them through at least break in. Seems like a safer way to break the cam in, but maybe I'm wrong.
 
Oh the pain in my wallet, found a couple of parts I need on ebay .
heat A/c selector $275
A/C dash vents I need both $825
Drivers side A/C duct nice one $285
one with a little wear in one spot & no flap over the holes for my feet I guess? $239
All the same seller.
that may bring the pad back to ABS core, 3000 just for the dash is getting a bit nuts!

The switch I may jump on just as hard to find as the vents, the vents are a hard pill to swallow I gotta look around some more & pray I get lucky
What do you guys think about the duct?
Let me take a look at what I've got for dash stuff. I have something like four dash pads and at least one spare structure, but I can't remember if the spare structure was AC or not. When you say "heat A/C selector" do you mean the heater control panel? Is yours Rallye dash or not? I *may* have an extra set of the dash vents. I'm almost positive don't have a spare duct but I'll look.

On the pushrods, there's no issue with using the hot-rod Mellings, but you could also look into Trick Flow (TFS-21407500) and Brian Tooley (PR7500312-16) which are both .080" wall chromoly and a bit less expensive than the Mellings--at least at Summit's pricing. The Trends looked cheaper, too, but then I realized that price is for a set of eight, not sixteen.

I probably also have a spare rocker shaft lying around, maybe even a new one that I never bastardized for use on the old W2 heads. If you do end up with a new one, check the end plugs. I've bought at least three on which they weren't driven in properly.

 
If it wasn't for bad timing I'd have no timing at all!
I just ordered the vents the switch & the duct from that guy seller (bestmoparparts1) he offered a little off each so I THOUGHT I wouldn't find any options so I bit the bullet!

I'm gonna call that local guy soon to see about stock oil pan & valve covers , maybe a manifold, if he has the rocker shaft & rocker I don't have to trouble you guys.

On the other hand if you want to sell any of that stuff I'd rather buy from you guys, since he dissed me on the rebuild anyway!
 
That's for a Rallye dash. It won't fit in the standard 120MPH non-tach dash. You need the one with the upper RH corner cut out to clear the cluster bezel around the speedometer:

s-l1600.jpg


All is not lost, though. I know I have that piece around here somewhere, but it's just the housing/bezel--which is all you need now anyhow. The buttons, slide, and switch on yours look very nice and could be transferred into the housing I have. I'll find it this weekend and post a picture of it.

My Challenger was a non-Rallye dash when I got it, and I've got most of the non-Rallye parts left over from swapping to the Rallye setup: cluster, light bar, switch panel, bezels, etc. Don't buy anything else for your dash without consulting with me first! I'll never need that stuff. I've collected enough parts to build another complete Rallye dash after I finish my car, including a pad, dash structure and everything else. Should I ever build another E-body, I'm all set in that department, so if you find you're missing something, let me know. I probably have it in a tote or box somewhere.

Those AC vents look gorgeous. They're much nicer than either of my sets (I checked--I have two sets). They should be, considering they're more than twice what I'd have asked. I've been where you are right now; if you don't remember, I bought possibly the last set of NOS '72-'74 Challenger rocker mouldings in existence for around $600. Two months later the reproductions dropped for less than half that. Oy. I guess I'm happy to have the real deal, but at what price!

I have doubles, triples, even quintuples of certain parts. I've got at least five, possibly six, Rim Blow steering wheels. 🤪
 
Darn, it says it right in the listing, I was mostly looking at the back, mines burnt up on some of the electric contact posts. I have it but I had to touch up the letters & there not that great, so if yours is nice I'll buy it.
here's the one I have20230426_163029.jpg
 
Ok just looked at summit the trick flow are 119 & the brian tooley are 109 the mellings would be 134
For 25 bucks I'd go melling if it's worth it. But I have no idea?
Now you see why it takes me 6 months to buy a lousy part.
If there's no big difference 109 sounds good!
 

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