My 71 Duster work in progress

[Dr.Jass]

Well, my first concern was that you had A-body backing plates with non-A-body drums. It doesn't seem like that's the case, though. With it being a "built" axle, I would expect (okay, hope) that they took the brakes as assemblies from the donor vehicle. I'd think that mixed/matched A-body backing plates would essentially lock the brakes, since the drum would wedge against the backing plate in that scenario.

Is the friction material overhanging the metal part of the shoe and contacting the drum? That would explain excessive brake dust. Mopar didn't change a lot about the drum brakes over the years, but there were some minor differences between those made in the musclecar era and later models like the M-bodies and '80s/'90s trucks and vans. I haven't run into any real compatibility issues, though. Usually if all the brake internals like shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware came from the same application, it works as intended.

 

[b-body-bob]

Is the friction material overhanging the metal part of the shoe and contacting the drum?

That's a good question since there are no scrapy grindy sounds. I will definitely look for that.

It seems like it would have to overhanging a lot to make that much dust and still be interfering. In other words, eventually it would be a self-correcting fault because the friction material should wear away. "Eventually" being the key word in that sentence.

 

[b-body-bob]

OK, what was going on is I had the brakes adjusted too tight and when I'd turn the wheel with the drum in place the brakes would catch and tighten up. I backed the adjusters off and things turn freely now.

But now I can pull the parking brake and can still turn the rear wheels, then I remembered that is the reason for adjusting the shoes too tight. We'll see if the auto adjusters correct it or if that's just the way it is. I don't think there's anything cable-related that I could have installed wrong but will check the FSM later today to be sure.

Yes, a 4-speed in WV kind of needs a parking brake, just in case some absent minded old man parks the car and leaves it in neutral.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Yes, a 4-speed in WV kind of needs a parking brake, just in case some absent minded old man parks the car and leaves it in neutral.

I just like the idea of a functioning parking brake, especially on a manual transmission. I have replacement cables for three of the six cars, since up here in Saltimore every cable on every car is rusted solid.

 

[b-body-bob]

I'm of the opinion that everything should work, or it should be removed. For example, will I use the in-dash stereo? No, but someone will turn it on so I straightened up the wiring while I had the carpet out.

 

[Dr.Jass]

That's the case with Agnes. Does the heater/defroster really matter on a thinly-disguised race car? Who cares about the in-dash temp gauge when there's a perfectly-working VDO under the dash? Apparently the answers are "yes" and "I do" respectively. I had a ton of time into the shot defroster vents and essentially-missing hoses, and I replaced the original dash temp gauge with an NOS part. Hell, I went so far as to make the factory oil-pressure warning light work alongside the underdash aftermarket unit.

I have the parking-brake cables for the car, but we forgot to weld the cable bracket to the new floorpan. I haven't had the heart to grind the paint off the new floor and install it.

 

[b-body-bob]

That's the case with Agnes. Does the heater/defroster really matter on a thinly-disguised race car? Who cares about the in-dash temp gauge when there's a perfectly-working VDO under the dash? Apparently the answers are "yes" and "I do" respectively. I had a ton of time into the shot defroster vents and essentially-missing hoses, and I replaced the original dash temp gauge with an NOS part. Hell, I went so far as to make the factory oil-pressure warning light work alongside the underdash aftermarket unit.

I have the parking-brake cables for the car, but we forgot to weld the cable bracket to the new floorpan. I haven't had the heart to grind the paint off the new floor and install it.

I took the heater box and all that out because it wasn't worth the effort to get that all straightened up. It's originally an A/C car and that's something else I had no plan to install so the firewall is all wrong anyway.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I've never had the pleasure of living in a place that allowed the full removal of the HVAC system. I tossed an AC compressor here or there, but not having a defogger was always a no-go. Obviously heat is a plus here, but Atlanta's habit of isolated afternoon rainstorms on 95-or-better days required at least having something blowing the condensation off the inside of the windshield. My roommate really regretted cutting out all of the heater box except the floor vents on his '69 Charger. Several times I'd passed him on the way home, he on the side of the road wiping the inside of his windshield.

 

[68R/T]

But now I can pull the parking brake and can still turn the rear wheels, then I remembered that is the reason for adjusting the shoes too tight.

There should be a tensioner adjustment in-line of the cable routing. Nothing more than a threaded rod & adjustment nut.

 

[b-body-bob]

There should be a tensioner adjustment in-line of the cable routing. Nothing more than a threaded rod & adjustment nut.

Yes it's there, I installed all new parts. To start with it didn't even have a handle for it.

regretted cutting out all of the heater box

I can bolt it back in if necessary. It had to come out because it was in the way of the 400 engine. I couldn't even get the valve cover off that side. The simplest solution was a few bolts and it was out. Reverse that and it's back in. Also made it easier to paint under the hood.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Yes it's there, I installed all new parts. To start with it didn't even have a handle for it.

Thanks for the reminder. Like most A-bodies, mine has half a handle. I have a reproduction that I haven't gotten around to installing.

 

[b-body-bob]

I've still got the worn smooth handle that was in a box of parts with this car. The whole mechanism? Nope. Weird. I did put a new one on it because ugly. No not me, the handle.

 

[b-body-bob]

I would like to offer a hearty pat on the back to the suit that decided to not standardize the cap size on gallon jugs. I've got a gallon of GL-4 Valvoline and a pump gadget, but the pump doesn't fit the bottle.

So, I'm planning to just dump it in an empty jug that has only had clean Mean Green in it from the factory. It's sitting outside, upside down, cap off, on the surface of the sun, I mean by my garage door.


That will bake it dry.

 

[b-body-bob]

Sanity check please

I can't just turn the engine until I feel compression on #1 to find TDC, because the lifters aren't pumped up so I get compression on the exhaust stroke too. I could either be at TDC, or 360* away from it when the balancer shows TDC.

I looked at the Mopar valve adjustment chart, that shows me when I'm at TDC I should adjust 2I and 8E. It shows me that when I'm 360* away from that, I should adjust 3I and 5E. If you can adjust a valve, that means it should be closed.

So, if I've got the balancer pointing at TDC, and 3I and 5E are both at least partially open, that means I'm actually at TDC, right?

Yes the mark on the balancer is in the right place.

Also ... can I prime the oil pump with the intake off or will that come a gusher?

Black gold, Texas tea. My great grandmother actually looked like Granny Clampett except she was meaner especially when you mentioned the similarity and don't you dare call her Granny even innocently.

 

[b-body-bob]

Also ... can I prime the oil pump with the intake off or will that come a gusher?

While looking for this, I remembered I need to put the oil filter on it first. That would've been a surprise.

Apparently the answer is yes, be prepared if you want oil to the rockers because it will end up down the side of the engine.



I filled the transmission - made one helluva mess. Didn't check the level every now and again because it's a PITA to get the hose in there and pump it, but I also forgot to notice when it starts overflowing even a little bit. Oh well it definitely ain't my first go-round with kitty litter and a 2x4 block. I noticed the speedo dealio was loose and leaking so that's corrected now (hopefully).

 

[b-body-bob]

I need to put the oil filter on it first

I was surprised that the canister doesn't cover the entire oil filter adapter plate that goes between the block and the filter. It's on though - used a Fram TG16 and it fit with no header interference.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Sanity check please

I can't just turn the engine until I feel compression on #1 to find TDC, because the lifters aren't pumped up so I get compression on the exhaust stroke too. I could either be at TDC, or 360* away from it when the balancer shows TDC.

Prime the oil pump. That'll get enough oil into the lifters to make it clear.

I looked at the Mopar valve adjustment chart, that shows me when I'm at TDC I should adjust 2I and 8E. It shows me that when I'm 360* away from that, I should adjust 3I and 5E. If you can adjust a valve, that means it should be closed.

So, if I've got the balancer pointing at TDC, and 3I and 5E are both at least partially open, that means I'm actually at TDC, right?

I would think that's right. I've just always used the "thumb over the plug hole" trick, but more directly, at TDC firing, both #1 valves should be closed. If you're on TDC exhaust, rocking the crank back and forth will open the exhaust and intake respectively.

Very simply, the first TDC after the intake closes is TDC firing.

Also ... can I prime the oil pump with the intake off or will that come a gusher?

Yes you can prime it and no, it won't fling oil everywhere... unless you have the valve covers off. Then it'll dump oil over the sides of the heads. Don't expect to see too much at the lifters (dude in the video was checking a Magnum). The pushrods will block it for the most part.

I filled the transmission - made one helluva mess. Didn't check the level every now and again because it's a PITA to get the hose in there and pump it, but I also forgot to notice when it starts overflowing even a little bit. Oh well it definitely ain't my first go-round with kitty litter and a 2x4 block. I noticed the speedo dealio was loose and leaking so that's corrected now (hopefully).

Here's hoping you used the right lube. All GL-5 gear lube uses sulfur for extreme pressure and therefore is not compatible with brass synchronizer rings (sulfur degrades yellow metals). The only two gear lubes of which I'm aware are PennGrade GL-4 and Redline MT-90, with the PennGrade being dramatically less expensive.

You can also use Dex/Merc ATF, which is what the factory put in the overdrive transmissions. It's much nicer in cold weather, but I prefer the 80W-90 spec for the most part. I will put ATF in the '68 Valiant's transmission because that car will be used year-round. Trying to move an A833 shifter at first start on a subzero day is like trying to paddle through gelatin. I don't expect you'll be driving the car in the winter, though.

I was surprised that the canister doesn't cover the entire oil filter adapter plate that goes between the block and the filter. It's on though - used a Fram TG16 and it fit with no header interference.

Yep, it's just big enough for the gasket. With the TTi headers and the Lakewood bellhousing, I'm still able to use a full-size filter (Wix 51515, Baldwin B2--same size as a Fram PH8A). Mine's pointed downward at about a 45° angle. Misses everything, but just by a scosche.

 

[b-body-bob]

Here's hoping you used the right lube.

It is labeled GL4/GL5
"Can be used in conventional and limited slip hypoid differentials where GL-5 is specified as well as non-synchronized manual transmissions that require GL-4. "

I bet that non-synchronized part is telling me to not use it. Nothing like draining new oil.

Mine's pointed downward at about a 45° angle.

I didn't use an angle adapter at all.

 

[Dr.Jass]

All GL-5 gear lube uses sulfur for extreme pressure and therefore is not compatible with brass synchronizer rings (sulfur degrades yellow metals).

It is labeled GL4/GL5
"Can be used in conventional and limited slip hypoid differentials where GL-5 is specified as well as non-synchronized manual transmissions that require GL-4. "

There's a clue in there somewhere.

I didn't use an angle adapter at all.

I think that's the only Mopar-style filter that would've fit. It's the same one as my Dakota used. I tried to use the '71-up filter (what would've been on your car originally) on that truck and only got it on with a whole bunch of effort. It ba-a-arely fit between the nipple and the frame rail. That filter likely wouldn't fit on your car either, which is why V8 A-bodies got the right-angle adapter.

I'm glad the Dakota filter worked, because those adapters are getting out of hand price-wise.

 

[b-body-bob]

I'm glad the Dakota filter worked, because those adapters are getting out of hand price-wise.

They seem that way to me too.

With that small filter I think I might be able to change it from the top.

NAPA lists StaLube but you have to call to see if they can get it. Which is OK, because it's $80 a gallon.

Four quarts of Penn Grade GL-4 at $8/quart is on the way. I don't know why they don't sell a gallon jug, but they don't. I'll pull the drain plug tonight and let it drain until the GL-4 arrives. Right now the car is higher in the front than the back, I'll change that to the other direction tomorrow to get out as much as possible