My 71 Duster work in progress

It's been unbolted and unbushed for a long time.
But it's still connected to the LCA. Zing the nut off and get it out of the way. Leave it out until we've got the torsion bar sorted.

I just checked, the FSM doesn't mention taking the strut off the arm with the arm in place.
The arm's not in place. If it were, there would be no need to have this discussion. If the hardware's gone from the front of the strut rod, removing the nut at the LCA will free it completely. It should come right out since the arm's just flopping around at this point.

I don't exactly remember but have a memory of the socket in the arm being hex so it will hold itself.
No such luck. The strut rod's just a glorified piece of round stock with a couple of flanges and some threads. Regardless, the nut should come off without too much effort with an air impact.
 
Are you sure that strut rod will come out, go back with the LCA in place?

I pulled the header, removed the LCA and strut rod. Strut rod is still attached because the nut came off but the rod won't come out. If I bang it out, I'm skep that it's going to go back in with the LCA in place. I think it's designed to not be able to come apart while mounted in the car.

Anyway, once the header was out of the way it was easier to get the t-bar to shove into the LCA but it still stopped short just like always. It was easier mostly because like I said, the header was out of the way.

Then I made sure the t-bar would shove all the way through the cross member which of course it will.

I came back in to get my phone for photos. When I go back I'm thinking about bolting the LCA back in place just to see if I can get the t-bar to slide on in with the headers out of the way. I know I can't, but I have to check to actually know.

Ideas at the other site are leaning toward the car was tweaked but the K-frame held it in place. Removing the K-frame let it be as cocked up as it wants. I do not buy that, not for a second. That stress would've bent it somewhere else if it couldn't bend through the k-frame. But I understand, it's spitballing ideas at this point because common sense hasn't helped.
 
OK I banged the strut rod out and it didn't make a bit of difference.

Photos with the LCA out:

20240604_184322.jpg20240604_183709.jpg20240604_183658.jpg20240604_183636.jpg20240604_183605.jpg20240604_183542.jpg20240604_183511.jpg

Nothing bent, nothing broken.
 
Ideas at the other site are leaning toward the car was tweaked but the K-frame held it in place. Removing the K-frame let it be as cocked up as it wants. I do not buy that, not for a second. That stress would've bent it somewhere else if it couldn't bend through the k-frame. But I understand, it's spitballing ideas at this point because common sense hasn't helped.
Did I mention Agnes being crashed badly enough to bend the frame and still going together just splendidly after we took the K-member out? I'm wth you on this one.
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Another stupid question:

How much grease are you putting on/in the front hex? You literally want a very thin a coat on the hex flats and that's it. No more. Absolutely nothing in the socket, absolutely nothing on the front of the bar. The "pack it full" rule only applies at the rear.

Why do I mention this?

Have you ever used one of these?

55600c_13A2349DA5802.jpg



Grease is really powerful, non-compressible stuff. You can push out a press-fit bushing with it with just a grease gun and a bit of effort. So my question is, "Is grease hydraulically locking the bar out of the socket?" And yes, it would literally feel like hitting a wall.

PA-tooey. Another spitball.
 
No there is basically no grease on anything at this point. I even tried to use acetone to get the paint off the hex but stopped short of breaking out the sandpaper.

The "pack it full" rule only applies at the rear.

And there it only applies to the front side of the rear socket. I think the intention is more to keep water out than it is to lubricate anything.

I put the LCA in, no strut, and yeah I got it to go ALMOST all the way in. Probably about as far out of the socket as it needs to be in it. Then I thought won't this be great to have the torsion bar in, but the strut rod and header laying on the ground? So I stopped and put the strut rod back on it. The strut rod ain't going in once the LCA is in place, and once the torsion bar goes in, it might not once I take the LCA out, put the strut back on it, and put it back in. Plus, no matter what the braintrust at Doug's Headers Inc says, you ain't getting those headers in with the torsion bars in place without lifting the engine partially out of the bay.

The last time I managed to move the k-frame I had everything disconnected. This time I left the column connected and the z-bar in place with just the outside pivot unbolted. Thinking about reverting to that and see if it will move anywhere then. Those fking clips again.

Looking at it with the bar as far in as it wants to go, the torsion bar is leaving the rear socket from the right side, which implies the LCA socket is offset to the right, so it needs to move left. I think, anyway.
 
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Starting to think I might end up pulling the engine out, leaving the k-frame in, getting that figured out, then put the engine back in. One of the reasons I did it this way was so I don't have to be under the car fighting the transmission into the splines/pilot. I am not looking forward to that. The engine/bell/trans ain't likely to come out in one piece, at least not with just me pulling it.
 
If you've got the fore/aft room, you can get the engine/trans out as a unit by yourself. It's not a lot of fun, but it can be done. A chain swivel comes in handy but isn't strictly required. Put the engine crane as close to the wall/garage door as you dare, then roll the car up to it. Get your lifting apparatus situated, some tension in the chain, and remove the motor mount bolts/nuts. Jack the car up a bit so you can get to the trans crossmember. Support the trans with a floor jack and remove the crossmember. Put a wheel or furniture dolly, or an Exclusive Cart Designs by Bob™ creation under the tailshaft housing and remove the floor jack. Start lifting the engine until you're near firewall contact. Roll the car away from the crane for more clearance, then lift further. Repeat ad nauseum, rolling the car away from the stand and checking your trans dolly situation and tailshaft housing clearance. You may have to shift the dolly's position at some point. Eventually you'll be clear and high enough that you can grab the tailshaft housing, lift it, and rotate it so the engine is sideways to the car. It's not a difficult lift since the crane's doing 90% of the work. If the car rolls easily, you should be able to move it enough with your legs and butt/hip to get it out of the way whilst still holding the transmission. Once it's clear, lower the drivetrain to the floor.

Reversing the procedure entails the engine/trans assembly at a severe angle, then rolling the car up to it. Lifting the tailshaft again, you swing it over the fender/grille/core support and gently set it against the core support. Now you've got to pull the car back under the crane, being careful to not let the transmission bang or slide around on things much (go to St. Vinny's and buy a couple of cheap blankets for cushioning--couple of bucks). This time you can roll the crane toward the car as clearance permits. A ratchet strap between the crane's upright and the car will make this easier, especially if the ratchet end is near the crane's controls. Once the tailshaft's about to contact the floor, get your rolling apparatus under it. The trans will want to go under the car naturally, but you'll have to adjust the dolly now and again to maintain directional stability.

That's really glossing over it; it's pretty time-consuming. It won't go quickly so don't try to force the issue. That leads to errors (and usually damage). Notice I did not mention this being "easy", "fun" nor even particularly safe--but it is possible. I've done it on more than one occasion since I rarely have assistance. It's just one more reason I have a winch in the garage, along with a snatch block and floor anchors so the car can be pulled in either direction.

I may be doing exactly this if I decide to re-piston Agnes' engine. I really don't want to separate the bell in particular, since we've got quite a bit of time into centering it and there aren't any dowel pins to find that spot again. I might have to swap piston/rod assemblies whilst it's hanging from the crane. So be it.
 
then roll the car up to it
Right there is a flaw in your plan. No suspension, not gonna put it all back together *again* until it's ready to stay together. At least the several times I've done that already, I had an idea that I was ready to move forward.

The last time I tried the one-piece pull, coming out only. Going back in I put the transmission in from below. I learned. Note the angle on the picker:

1717634504484.png

No thank you. And WOW I had a lot less crap in the garage back then.

I also have photos of myself on that day drenched in sweat and pale as a ghost. I looked like I was about to have a heart attack LOL. That was 19 years ago, to the day, oddly enough. I weigh a lot less now but I ain't going to stand it any better, that's for sure.

I can't figure out a way to just hang the engine/trans on the picker and work with the k-frame separately. I see no way it would ever stay balanced on a floor jack, plus with the picker and a floor jack under the car, there's no room to work anyway.

Installing it as one piece from the bottom was supposed to prevent having to do this. Oh well. I sure wish I could figure out where I went wrong, even though I'll never be doing this again without a lift. So most likely, never ever doing it again.

FWIW I'm holding out hope that disconnecting the column from the box and the z-bar from the pedal rod will give me enough freedom to do anything.
 
Did some more googling, and found that this does happen and you don't necessarily have to take the k-frame out to cause it.

Found one guy who ground the length of a bar to get the clip in.

It probably won't help but I had an idea to drop the car down on lower stands so that's added to the list of Stuff I Need To Try Before Taking It Back Apart Again.
 
Also one of the finds helped me realize that I can measure from the front edge of the LCA socket to the back edge of the x-member socket to see if they are mostly square.
 
OK, did the measuring, lots of help here /s

Driver side:
20240606_185104.jpg

Passenger side:
20240606_184838.jpg

That's the same as same gets.

I've disconnected the column and removed the z-bar and before it's over I will take the transmission x-member out so there is nothing holding the assembly to the car but the k-frame bolts. Then I'll pick up on the engine, loosen the bolts and see if I can accomplish anything like that. Maybe tonight, maybe not.
 
I tried moving the k-frame/engine but it won't move much and none of it helps.

I'm about to break out the hammer and an old extension to drive it in and be done with it.
 
I can't say I'd blame you at this point. With all these fitment gremlins, I'm starting to believe you fed the K-member after midnight.
I should've done it a week ago. We'll see how it goes today.

FWIW I had already pounded it in once before things went to hell in a handbasket because the engine was crooked. Remember several pages ago when I had trouble and had to create a homebrew T-bar tool?
 
Since it seems to go in pretty freely with the parts on the floor, I wouldn't expect it to take Big John levels of striking force to drive it home. It'd be worrisome if it did. Average hammer whacks should do it, although I'm sure it won't seat on the first hit. The harder you hit it, the more likely metal is to move and ever-so-slightly deform the bar in the hex area. That may not seem possible, but I'll give you a quick example:
Before I transferred to my old store, one of the employees used some of the brake-lathe adapters as press tools for wheel bearings. Shortly after starting I tried to cut a brake rotor and found myself unable to do so. The inside bearing adapter would not slide onto the lathe shaft. I couldn't even get it fully past the threads. I could not figure out the problem until one of the other employees said, "Well, John has been using those adapters to press wheel bearings." I'm sure you're familiar with how stout Ammco bearing adapters are. There were no hammer marks on them, meaning they'd just been subjected to smooth pressing force. Wheel bearings happened maybe once a month if that, and he'd only been there two years. It doesn't take that much force to press bearings, either. You'd think the knuckle would crack before the adapter deformed, but several of the latter were unusable. I gave the brake lathe to one of my shops rather than drop hundreds of dollars on new adapters that would never pay for themselves. I also gave that employee to a different store, because he didn't pay for himself either.

Long story short: Metal moves. Tappy tap-tap.
 
Average hammer whacks should do it, although I'm sure it won't seat on the first hit.
It didn't, and it didn't

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It was a NBD kind of thing. Should've done it on the first day.

I loosened the k-frame and left it hanging when I did it, then I tightened that up and checked everything before torquing. The bar is in, the LCA is snug, the bar doesn't touch the header on either side, and the steering wheel will still spin. Now to get busy and quit worrying so much.
 
Well it's a total PITA torquing the suspension. I ended up laying on the floor and using my foot to get 145 on the LCA pivots. But it's done.

It would be sitting on the ground now, if not for the exhaust. I'm debating if it would be time well spent putting it back on the hangers and wiring it up with coat hangers in the front. AFAICT it won't reach the headers now. Just remembered, also need to put the bellhousing inspection cover on.

Then to decide what comes first under the hood. This is the point where I'm glad I reworked the wiring while things were all apart. That *should* just be plug and play, even down to the gauges, tach, and a hidden no-start switch. It all runs to a terminal block under the dash.
 
We torqued mine with the car sitting on ramps. On its weight is on its weight; the car doesn't know if it's on the ground or 10" from it.

I have Agnes' exhaust currently hung with a ratchet strap hooked to itself in the interior, looped under the car. The doors shut just fine without harming the strap. The coat hangers were used to hold the headers up to the core support, since they're connected to nothing at either end. 😄
 
1 out of every 3 67/9 abodys ive done front end rebuilds on has hung up 1 bar at random and had to be smackked in with a hammer..i assumed that was normal....as ive seen previous hammer marks on cars that had never been apart
hell even my alfas require a bit of hammering and its a VERY similar setup..the differance being no adjuster bolt and something like 27 splines....you pull the LCA down to adjust your desired ride height/preload...haveing both ends splined slightly differently gives you infinite possibilitys
 

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