RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
The fun never ends, I had enough trouble trying too just do a stock car, would never be able to do what you guys do.
My 71 Duster work in progress
- Thread starter b-body-bob
- Start date
b-body-bob
Well-known member
What, buy the wrong stuff almost every single time? You don't give yourself enough credit, I know you're perfectly capable of doing that
The only good thing is it gives me a valid reason to delay moving on the engine so I can start it up. Don't even want to think about my luck following me to that task and afterward.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Been there done that.
then add in the new stuff that doesn't work!
Yea I put that off a long while, but somehow it did fire up on the first try after sitting 10ish years, but I didn't do much to the motor, no break in worries!
Well not that my luck has been any better but good luck when you bite the bullet & go for it!
then add in the new stuff that doesn't work!
Yea I put that off a long while, but somehow it did fire up on the first try after sitting 10ish years, but I didn't do much to the motor, no break in worries!
Well not that my luck has been any better but good luck when you bite the bullet & go for it!
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I think I was aware of the Sta-Lube, but balked at the pricing for a product with such a Kmart sounding name. Our warehouse doesn't stock it either. Regardless, I think I'd pop a few extra bucks and just run the MT-90 at that point. Instead, I use the PennGrade. It's green so I'm reminded how much this hobby costs me.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I thought Sta-Lube was a pretty well known brand. I found it in a thread saying Brewer's recommended it. 2x the price isn't a motivating factor for me.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
It is, or at least was at one point. I just don't think of it often; as with all the other CRC products there's usually a similar or better product available at a better price. I believe the PennGrade is that product, and one of the reasons I chose it is because they literally name the A833 as one of the transmissions for which it's specified (along with Muncie, Saginaw, Borg-Warner and Ford of the musclecar era). They're thinking along my lines, and they're the least-expensive option despite being a specialty company.
I'm guessing that over time, as the GL-4 lubes were replaced by GL-5 on shelves, that's what the Brewers could probably still find locally and stuck with it. Good on them for knowing not to run GL-5 in an A833. It's entirely possible they're not even aware of the PennGrade stuff (which until recently was called "Brad Penn", for Bradford Pennsylvania) since it's really not a mainstream line.
$32/gallon is a compelling argument versus $80. The times that I did deal with Brad Penn/PennGrade over the phone, I got a human who seemed to be an enthusiast himself. I could see that being the case with Redline, but try that with CRC.
On the subject of lubrication, I was looking at some of what our chain carries in Redline other than the MT-90. During my time at RBRE, Royal Purple Racing 9 was pretty radical, being a 0W-9 oil. I see Redline was offering a 0W-2 (!) but it's no longer available. You can, however, still get a 0W-5. Toyota is moving toward 0W-8 on their production cars. 10W-30 is getting to be a relic; I can count on my fingers how many quarts of 10W-40 I've sold in the past year.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
TBH I was going to end up draining a lot of it anyway because the speedo housing has a continuous leak for some reason. I've got a full gallon again. I wonder if I can use it for chainsaw bar oil? I suspect I'd end up covered in oil if I tried it.
Last edited:
b-body-bob
Well-known member
The package is already at the local UPS. It used to be Summit and Jegs were both one-day for free deals, then they setup up regional warehouses so parts aren't always near.
I remember BradPenn being the bomb years ago. I also wondered if it is a person, a place, or a thing? It's good they are still brewing up the good stuff because the profit motive will eventually eliminate it.
I remember BradPenn being the bomb years ago. I also wondered if it is a person, a place, or a thing? It's good they are still brewing up the good stuff because the profit motive will eventually eliminate it.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
The answer to your question.
I think it's a bit heavy for that, no? You could always save it for the A12's rear axle, if nothing else.
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
I've found it to be a very good substitute. About the same consistonsy and almost as sticky.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
That's what I was thinking but am skeptical that it will hang onto the bar. A face full of 90w is just what the doctor ordered when you're already worked up running the saw.
True. At first I thought "why would I drain that?", then remembered 5.13s.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I found a new o-ring for the speedo housing, and I put that and 3 quarts in the transmission with no leak overnight so I filled it the rest of the way
The thin sheetmetal 78 vintage thermostat housing wouldn't have worked if it wasn't rusty - it uses a smaller thermostat.
A 1" shorter belt on the power steering put the adjustment right in the middle.
I'm running out of things to procrastinate about and am going to need to finish the engine soon.
The thin sheetmetal 78 vintage thermostat housing wouldn't have worked if it wasn't rusty - it uses a smaller thermostat.
A 1" shorter belt on the power steering put the adjustment right in the middle.
I'm running out of things to procrastinate about and am going to need to finish the engine soon.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
ahhhh come on, you can still procrastinate about finishing the engine!
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
You are at the point where I was on the Valiant when I decided every God-blessed component on the car needed to work, and all the wiring needed to be as if it were factory. Why did I decide that when I did? For much the same reason you're futzing with trivial stuff as well.
Should you take the route I did, you won't have to think about first start until, I dunno, mid-August.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
FOBTFU is what it is. After all we've been through on this I predict it will fire right up giving me a false sense of security, then after about 15 minutes the cam's gonna start tapping. I won't be so lucky to have it go up with a bang and a cloud of smoke. It won't be exciting, it will be a bummer.
Until I decide fkit and do burnouts until it won't do more. Oh wait, the clutch's new too so it won't stand for that until it's broken in. So even the burnouts won't be that exciting.
I hope not! But yeah, nobody will be surprised.
FWIW the transmission is still not leaking so it seems I won that battle.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I didn't make the connection between it being sheetmetal and the thermostat change size in '78.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
As soon as it starts get it over 2,000RPM and keep it there for 20 minutes, with the occasional throttle input to vary the revs a bit. Why the varied throttle input's supposed to make a difference, I have no idea, but that's what I've always been told.FOBTFU is what it is. After all we've been through on this I predict it will fire right up giving me a false sense of security, then after about 15 minutes the cam's gonna start tapping. I won't be so lucky to have it go up with a bang and a cloud of smoke. It won't be exciting, it will be a bummer.
Until I decide fkit and do burnouts until it won't do more. Oh wait, the clutch's new too so it won't stand for that until it's broken in. So even the burnouts won't be that exciting.
I hope not! But yeah, nobody will be surprised.
FWIW the transmission is still not leaking so it seems I won that battle.
It won't wipe the cam right away. It'll wait a few thousand miles until you're sure your sense of security is not false. I got 9,800 miles (653,882 kilometers) out of mine before ticking got really annoying and it started to run poorly. Mind you, that cam had about 5 minutes of low-RPM total run time on it before oil ever got to the lifters, rockers, pretty-much anything other than the filter.
I have a friend who, after cam break-in, believes in "drive it like you're going to drive it" rather than an easy 500-1,000 miles. A brandy-new 480-something-inch Pontiac leaving the driveway completely crossed up, tire smoke pouring, screaming 6,000RPM+ in a roofless early Blazer is something one doesn't soon forget. Yes, a 455-based Poncho in a 4WD Blazer. You'd have to ask him why; I've no idea.
Clutches need breaking in? I wish someone would've told me that 36 years ago.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
And what it is, only you know. These obscure acronyms of yours are inscrutable.
Five Owls Bit The Fairy's Underpants?
Fuzzy Otters Beat The Fox Up?
Frank Oz Bywrote The Fozzy Ultimatum?
Fried Okra Buttered To Flavor Utopia?
Frenzied Operation Blew The Fucker Up?
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
Many years ago I was told by a very smart man who taught auto mech. at a tech school for over 30 yrs. When accellorating compression pushes oil off of the rings. As RPM's drop it draws oil to the rings. The purpose is to 'bathe'n'dry' the rings to enhance wear to fit & cool and temper them during break-in.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I figured you would get that one but you were getting close at the end: Fear Of Blowing The Fker Up