My 71 Duster work in progress

[b-body-bob]

Yeah I'm going to take the transmission/bellhousing back off and torque those flywheel bolts per spec. It would sure be a hassle to have to fix it laying on my back, and if it just up and fails, well, boom through the floorboard.

Such is life.

If I get that done by Saturday evening, I'm going to try to bribe my nephew to come up Sunday and help me lift it in. He works on Saturday or I'd hit him up for help with that too.

 

[b-body-bob]

Re-torqued the flywheel yesterday and put all that back together. Couldn't get the pressure plate bots because the headers are in the way and I was uncomfortable having Gina help with the engine/trans swinging in the breeze so I put a big note on the speedo to torque those after the engine is in so I won't forget.

I think it's ready to go in?

 

[b-body-bob]

I put the rear end up in the air and got the exhaust out of the way.

Safety note - I raised the rear end up and put the stands under the subframes. Then I looked back and could see daylight between the front stand and the subframe it's been sitting on for months. Never never never try to put stands under four points like that - always make sure one end is under a movable part so it will sit on all the stands. I relocated the stands from the rear subframe to under the rear axle and all is well.
It's like a table with four legs - one will always be wonky, but three legs will always sit stable.

I still remember the first time I was under a car and bumped into a stand that moved ...

Not sure if I should try raising the front end with the stands under the rear axle or not. I've got about 6" to go to be able to scoot things under. I think I've done that before with no problems.

Also - used tape to mark where the k-frame bolts go in the frame, and dropped a quick and dirty plumb bob off the outside of the frame rails so I could have some idea of how close I am to getting it where it needs to be.


That's the PS hose from the 400. If it doesn't run into the radiator it should be OK to use.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Not sure if I should try raising the front end with the stands under the rear axle or not. I've got about 6" to go to be able to scoot things under. I think I've done that before with no problems.

It's probably the most stable that way. If the stands are ahead of the axle, you've got a teeter-totter when the front is lifted. If they're behind, now you've got additional weight you're lifting with the crane, so there's the possibility of more "pendulum" effect if it moves a'tall.

That's the PS hose from the 400. If it doesn't run into the radiator it should be OK to use.

If it's an issue, you can cut it between the crimp and first bend in the hard line, then again between the next bend hard-line bend. Flare both ends with fuel-line nuts and use an inverted-flare union to join them. Obviously some bending of the hard line would be necessary, but you could take several inches out of the line. Since the rotation at which it enters the pump is of no consequence, just rotate it until you get to where the bends are easiest.

 

[b-body-bob]

It's probably the most stable that way. If the stands are ahead of the axle, you've got a teeter-totter when the front is lifted. If they're behind, now you've got additional weight you're lifting with the crane, so there's the possibility of more "pendulum" effect if it moves a'tall.

I was thinking about the need for the housing to rotate on the jackstand. I did the math and that's about a 5* of rotation assuming I'm going up 6" at 12' away from the CL of the axle. Not much.

If I set it down I just have to pick it back up again anyway. Needing a helper though, it's hard to steer and 2 people pushing on it would have to be better. Plus there's never a reason not to bring in an extra set of eyes to avoid lifting that engine right into the inner fender. (it does look like you'd have to be blind to do that with the contact points marked like I have them)

 

[Dr.Jass]

I was thinking about the need for the housing to rotate on the jackstand. I did the math and that's about a 5* of rotation assuming I'm going up 6" at 12' away from the CL of the axle. Not much.

The axle tubes are just going to slide on the jackstand anyhow. It's not like it could roll off, short of rotating the rest of the car through like 90° whilst applying additional force on the axle to keep it from slipping on the stand.

 

[b-body-bob]

Thinking again - bad habit - but I was considering if it might be easier to set the rear wheels on the ground pick the front up with the picker, then shove the car forward over the engine than it would be to be on my hands and knees trying to push the engine under.

I also thought about hooking a couple of ropes to the k-frame bolt holes and pulling it under from behind the car with a couple of people.

Option one involves some possibe monkey motion moving the car with the front end hanging by the rad support, so I'm not seriously considering that. The ropes option seems plausible though.

In the end it will probably be just as easy to shove it under as good as possible then finagle it with the engine assembly hanging on the picker. Because I'm pretty sure finagling will be required no matter how it ends up getting put under the body.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Thinking again - bad habit - but I was considering if it might be easier to set the rear wheels on the ground pick the front up with the picker, then shove the car forward over the engine than it would be to be on my hands and knees trying to push the engine under.

One downside to having the car supported by the rear tires as opposed to the rear axle on jackstands is your rear overhang. If you have sufficient ground clearance at the rear of the quarters with the core support high enough, you should be fine with just a couple of wheel chocks.

If you have to lift the front end up two feet, though, the rear quarters will probably get rather cozy with the floor. Also, moving the car with freewheeling rear tires and a crane that's more loathe to roll is going to induce some swinging in your lifting apparatus.

My main takeaway from all this discussion is that unless one has a proper automotive lift, the body-drop method seems far more of a pain in the arse than just coming in from the top with the suspension in place.

 

[b-body-bob]

If you have to lift the front end up two feet, though, the rear quarters will probably get rather cozy with the floor

It only needs 3-4 actual inches up so it would clear.

Also, moving the car with freewheeling rear tires and a crane that's more loathe to roll is going to induce some swinging in your lifting apparatus.

Yes that's what I was thinking, and then add in I'm lifting it by the rad support it seems like a recipe for disaster.

My main takeaway from all this discussion is that unless one has a proper automotive lift, the body-drop method seems far more of a pain in the arse than just coming in from the top with the suspension in place.

I think you're right to be honest, at least at this point in time. It might just pop right in line up and bolt up no problem though. Or at least no huge problem. Time will tell.

I'll tell you it sure would've been easier if the engine/trans were on a taller cart. I come out of the garage after bending over that all day long and it's like someone has beat me in the kidneys with a ballbat.

I won't be surprised if it ends up taking 3 or 4 people to get it lifted up, lined up, and two bolts in to hold it in place. I foresee a need to spear it with a pry bar though the two diagonal k-frame bolt holes into the frame, and then another person to start a bolt in the other two holes. Once that's done, it's basically all over but the breaking in.

If the bolt diameter wasn't so large I'd think about ordering in some all thread to make extended studs to bring it up on so it's lined up from the beginning.

 

[b-body-bob]

Bob, quit thinking about it and just do it.




Maybe I should've kept going but that was enough stress for one night. Actually it wasn't bad at all.

There's about 9.5-10" between the k-frame and the frame rail with it on the stands, and my shortest stands are about 9" shorter than the ones it's on right now. If I measured and am thinking right I will almost set the car right down on the k-frame. Maybe could, then wiggle things around to get the bolts started. But I'm going to put the shorter stands under it and try lifting the engine up to the car first.

One place I've got to be careful about when setting the car down is the P/S box to the brake valve there on the driver's frame rail. If I'm not careful I could crush those lines.

 

[Dr.Jass]

If you can drop it to within 1/2" of the K-frame, you should be able to get the bolts started. Once they're started, I'd think you could lift the trans-mount crossmember into place and get it sorted. Lower the body the rest of the way, adjusting as necessary, and finish-torque the K-member bolts. Use the load leveler to then lift the car via the engine so you can remove the cart, and you're your uncle. Set it down on jackstands and start assembling the suspension.

 

[b-body-bob]

I might be close enough to start the bolts with the car sitting on the short stands, then take the picker off the car and hook it to the engine and lift it straight up to the car. After that, things go back to normal with a floor jack under the k-frame. That would probably be the best case scenario.

You get into sort of a chicken and egg situation with the car hanging on the picker. Will that little HF cart hold up the engine and the car? Inquiring minds might be finding out soon enough.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Lookin good!
The paint in the bay looks good too, seems you were worried bout nothing there.
Roll on, roll on!

 

[b-body-bob]

Looks good until you look at it close. I would've had to strip it bare to make it look good with all the chips and scratches. I don't think I really worried about it though because it looks 100x better than that flat black paint.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

I had mine looking like part of the body, all nice & shinny, but I did that first, by the time the rest of the car was done it had all kinds of crud in there, even some overspray, was thinking about shooting it again & said screw it, not that much will show!

 

[b-body-bob]

"Shiny paint causes stress"

 

[b-body-bob]

Ok the k-frame/engine/trans is in but I think I got in too much of a hurry because the transmission is sitting to the passenger side and the mount won't line up. I've got it bolted to the car but not to the trans. I suspect I need to stick a floor jack under the k-frame and loosen the bolts up so it can move side to side. Am I stout enough to move it from side to side? Time will tell.

The engine doesn't look like it's sitting level either. I couldn't find a level on short notice but that is gonna need some correcting. I had to loosen the mount and lift the motor a little to get that 2x4 from between the drag link and oil pan. I dropped it back down, and it's more crooked now. Go me.

Also, putting the shifter on first seems like a mistake because 1-2 and 3-4 rods ran into the welded in crossmember but I'll figure that out somehow. Trying to avoid taking those spring clips back off because they are difficult enough working out in the open. Will probably just unbolt the shifter and start from scratch. I unbolted the shifter tabs/rods from the trans to get around that for the short term.

Will that little HF cart hold up the engine and the car? Inquiring minds might be finding out soon enough.

Yes it did, for a short time anyway. It's still in one piece after all that, so two thumbs up for cheap stuff.

So far, this method of engine installation trades effort for stress. It pretty much went right back together (other than the crooked trans) but it's a real hassle having to be so danged careful to avoid doing something stupid.

 

[b-body-bob]

Plan of attack - car on stands, jack under the k-frame, engine on the picker (for safety), loosen (remove?) the k-frame bolts, lower the engine down slow with the jack until it's free to move, fight with the transmission until it lines up with the crossmember.

I might end up taking the transmission crossmember off the frame and bolting it to the trans, then lining that up to the car. That seems like it might be the easiest way to deal with it. It's a PITA getting the bolts in the transmission made worse because things are kind of going to be floating around.

Hopefully this will go as smoothly as the rest of the process has.

 

[b-body-bob]

BTW, all I've got to fit the k-frame bolts (1-1/6") is a deep well 12 point chrome socket. I really miss being able to walk into Sears and buy any size socket I needed, not a set, a single socket. We didn't know how good we had it.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Ok the k-frame/engine/trans is in but I think I got in too much of a hurry because the transmission is sitting to the passenger side and the mount won't line up. I've got it bolted to the car but not to the trans. I suspect I need to stick a floor jack under the k-frame and loosen the bolts up so it can move side to side. Am I stout enough to move it from side to side? Time will tell.

Not likely. The factory K-member bolts are shouldered. They align it to the frame with literally no wiggle room. No matter where you nudge it, they're simply going to nudge it back.

Also, putting the shifter on first seems like a mistake because 1-2 and 3-4 rods ran into the welded in crossmember but I'll figure that out somehow. Trying to avoid taking those spring clips back off because they are difficult enough working out in the open. Will probably just unbolt the shifter and start from scratch. I unbolted the shifter tabs/rods from the trans to get around that for the short term.

Since the 1-2 and 3-4 rods must be installed after the transmission's in the car, I'm not surprised. They go over that crossmember, not under it. You can see where I notched mine to try and clear a Super Shifter I, which did not work so well since it doesn't work with the stock mount (click to zoom):

Are the linkage rods nudging the transmission out of the way? You've got some play in the motor mounts, after all, and yours in particular sat deformed for awhile.