My 71 Duster work in progress

[b-body-bob]

Are the linkage rods nudging the transmission out of the way?

No they're hanging down

Not likely. The factory K-member bolts are shouldered. They align it to the frame with literally no wiggle room. No matter where you nudge it, they're simply going to nudge it back.

Yeah I noticed the ball and socket design of the bolt and frame.

The tailshaft is almost against the tunnel toward the passenger side. It needs to move an inch maybe two but probably less.

The transmission ain't budging like it is now. Maybe it's just a matter of bolting it down from the back to the front with the k-frame bolts doing the final positioning.

FWIW I had noticed while reading posts installing like this that you put the transmission mount up early in the process. You even mentioned it that way in an earlier post, something like start the bolts then work on mounting the transmission. I just couldn't do that because of all the crap under the car, and the car was on the short stands for the install. The car's back up an extra 9-10" on the tall stands now.

 

[b-body-bob]

I might need to look at the motor mount brackets too

Trans seem crooked?

Full thread
Trans seem crooked?

 

[Dr.Jass]

What I would do right off the bat is connect the engine to the crane, loosen the nuts on the engine insulators, then lift the engine like 1/8 of a pump on the crane... just enough that the engine can wiggle. Bolt the mount to the transmission, then to the crossmember, then install the crossmember. Once that's all tidied and tightened, then release the hounds--er, sorry--the crane so the engine's on the K-member again. Cinch up the insulator mounts. That should straighten things out acceptable.

The holes in the K-member are not a super-precise fit, nor are those in the mounting brackets. The back of the trans is three feet away from those hard points, so even a minor amount of offset can create a dramatic offset out back. Got a yardstick? Lay it on the floor and put one finger on the floor at the 1" mark. Move the corner of the yardstick nearest your "fulcrum finger" just 1/8" using your finger as a fulcrum. How much did the far end of the yardstick travel? Way over 1-1/2".

Geometry: You'll never use it in real life.

Get used to the trans-mount swap process, as you may be doing it a lot with the biscuit-type mount. I refused to use one in my Valiant, so failure-prone are they (especially with manual transmissions). I have spool-type crossmembers stacked like cordwood now.

 

[b-body-bob]

That's exactly what I did except I used a floor jack under the pan instead of the picker and once I found a place to get purchase with a crowbar to lever the transmission over it went right together. Or as much as "went right together" applies to any of this stuff.

Re-tightening those mounting brackets was a real hassle though. Having the car feet in the air didn't make it any easier. Things like that are why I did the body drop, and here I am doing them anyway.

Next comes installing the shifter and putting the suspension (UBJs only) and brakes back together.

Can you mix and match the spool type trans mount with the biscuit type engine mount? Rubber at the engine isn't really a problem because I plan to put one solid mount on the engine if the engine insulators let go.

 

[b-body-bob]

It's leveler now too



Also it's hard to see here but there's daylight between the PS box and the header tube and it fit right into that circular part of the box perfectly.



The headers have a few battle scars on them but nothing like they would've had (also the inner fenderwells) if I would've put them in traditionally.

Maybe next winter I'll pull them out and have them coated, but probably not.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

I'm wondering if the extra money I spent on ceramic was worth it, there already turning colors & I see what looks like rust starting, haven't tried to wipe them off yet?

 

[Dr.Jass]

Re-tightening those mounting brackets was a real hassle though. Having the car feet in the air didn't make it any easier. Things like that are why I did the body drop, and here I am doing them anyway.

I was only suggesting loosening the insulators, since the mounting brackets really don't affect location (as it applied to your conundrum) to the same extend that the insulators do. Regardless, neither is much fun.

Can you mix and match the spool type trans mount with the biscuit type engine mount? Rubber at the engine isn't really a problem because I plan to put one solid mount on the engine if the engine insulators let go.

Absolutely. I have the biscuit mounts--adapters, no less--in the Valiant with a spool trans mount. The different mount styles have no effect on the engine/transmission location. I've only broken one biscuit-style engine mount (well, the same one, which was the driver's side on the Six Pack Charger. I've never actually had a biscuit at the transmission for any length of time. B- and E-bodies went to the spool trans mount in 1972, despite the engine mounts not changing until the next year on B-bodies (they never did on E-bodies).

If it makes you feel any better, the TTi headers were even closer to the steering box in the Valiant, and that car's manual steering. It just touched the box, and we had to shim it to clear.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I'm wondering if the extra money I spent on ceramic was worth it, there already turning colors & I see what looks like rust starting, haven't tried to wipe them off yet?

Ceramic coating shouldn't change color. In the presence of very high exhaust-gas temperatures--usually due to retarded timing or very lean mixtures--they'll dull pretty badly, but I can't say I've seen them discolor. Sometimes it'll happen during cam break-in, but you haven't had the engine at that kind of RPM for that kind of time.

 

[b-body-bob]

I was only suggesting loosening the insulators, since the mounting brackets really don't affect location (as it applied to your conundrum) to the same extend that the insulators do. Regardless, neither is much fun.

The bottom nut of the insulator was all but removed. No dice it wasn't moving but no big deal since it's over with now. I was ready to start adding spacers like that one guy in the FABO thread was recommending, but no, it just needed to shift around a little to get it in place.

Did I mention that the brackets had been loose right up until I shoved the engine over. I remembered them and thought heck I oughta tighten those up while they're easy to access.

My next hurdle on the headers is the z-bar. I've read that you need the TTI mod to fit Doug's headers, and I've also read that you don't.

Good to know on the trans mount. I put a "new" mount that I had saved for decades in but if it rips I'll just do away with that style of mount.

 

[Dr.Jass]

My next hurdle on the headers is the z-bar. I've read that you need the TTI mod to fit Doug's headers, and I've also read that you don't.

TTi assured me I needed it, so of course I didn't buy it. "I'm a clever fellow, I'll figure it out," I assured myself. Turns out I was wrong, because there was nothing to figure out. The stock countershaft/"Z-bar" went in with exactly zero issue. Again, this is with the larger primary tubes all the TTi W2 headers have.

Good to know on the trans mount.

You will need a different crossmember, just so there's no confusion. For awhile, people seemed to be asking quite a premium for the '73-up part, which I don't quite understand. Yes, it's gooder but it's not exactly rare either. I eventually ended up with (at least) four: One was donated to the cause, as mentioned in the Valiant's build thread. I also found a pair of 'em with "Make an Offer" on eBay, which I did. Those two cost me $65 shipped. The last one I found lying on the ground in a junkyard and set me back a wallet-draining $5. The '73-up spool type is a direct bolt-in for 1967-72 A-bodies.

Just for clarification, there are no "specific" crossmembers, i.e. all 1973-'76 A-bodies used the same part regardless of engine or transmission. This is true of all the trans crossmembers of which I'm aware. They vary by year and body--you need an A-body crossmember--but not between manual/automatic or L6/V8. Anyone trying to sell you a "4-speed" crossmember is either a charlatan or an ignoramus.

I put a "new" mount that I had saved for decades in but if it rips I'll just do away with that style of mount.

Did you peen it over as instructed in the service manual? They don't come "ready to install". The peening makes a considerable difference in strength, which I'm sure is at least partly responsible for the biscuit mount's horrible reputation for breaking.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Hey Bob, I found a short 1 1/16 socket in my extras, only thing it looks like a 3/4 drive, I don't even have a 3/4 tool, so if it will help you I can send it your way.

 

[b-body-bob]

W2

That might have something to do with why you were able to use the stock z-bar

I bought a new standard one from Brewer's because a) I know TTIs need it and b) TTIs and Doug's aren't even the same design, so c) Doug's don't need it. I'm keeping it clean and won't scratch it up in hope that if it turns out to not fit I can get something back out of it from Wayne toward the TTI modified part.

You will need a different crossmember

Understood.

Anyone trying to sell you a "4-speed" crossmember is either a charlatan or an ignoramus.

B-bodies are the same, at least for 66-up.

Did you peen it over as instructed in the service manual

The peening is on the crossmember, right? If so, I didn't bend it to get the old mount out, I clamped that bastard in the vise and pried it out with the biggest screwdriver I've got, and did basically the same going back in. So the crossmember is holding the mount like it should unless there's something else to it.

Speaking of the FSM I need to look up the tq spec for the k-frame. My back aches thinking about it.

 

[b-body-bob]

Hey Bob, I found a short 1 1/16 socket in my extras, only thing it looks like a 3/4 drive, I don't even have a 3/4 tool, so if it will help you I can send it your way.
View attachment 27541

Thanks, but I've got no 3/4 drive stuff either.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

I came up 1 size short on the half inch drive, biggest extra was 1"
Oh well I tried!

 

[b-body-bob]

I've got another of those chicken and egg things - was going to put the suspension back on it until I realized to tighten the UBJ I'd be turning the wheels lock to lock because the column's still out so I can't lock it in place.

There are no hoses on the PS pump and the box will squirt a stream if you turn it and I don't think it's empty yet. So it seems the only thing to do is to put the column in first.

Then before I put the column in I need to get the clutch pedal and all that in, and the seat to hold the column while I put it on the box.

I think I got all the wiring work done already so at least that kind of headache is out of the way.

Also - which one is upper, which is lower?

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Pretty sure the taller ones were lower, they look the same as the ones I bought.
But me being me, I wouldn't put money on it!

 

[b-body-bob]

Pretty sure the taller ones were lower, they look the same as the ones I bought.
But me being me, I wouldn't put money on it!

Good enough for me. I just realized maybe the stud diameter makes a difference.

No car work likely today - plumbing again.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

I'll be sealing up the studs on the hood & playing helper to the headliner guy if he needs it.

 

[b-body-bob]

Man that hood deal sucks. I never thought of that being a problem.

I found a 2' and a 4' level, put them centered up across the valve covers and the fender wells, and they are pretty much level and level to each other so the engine seems good to go.

 

[b-body-bob]

I've been looking (body and chassis books) for the torque spec on the K-frame bolts, but haven't fond anything. Any help out there?

All I found was



I think just going by head size, those bolts are a lot bigger than 3/4". Also, that I'd need to make some sort of a porta-power rig to pull 245 lb/ft.

ETA found this


I didn't find that in my 71 books.