My 71 Duster work in progress

Both headers are on now. Had to grind a little bit off the bellhousing on the passenger side. It's kind of right against the steering gear with no shims in the mount. Unsure if shims would help there or not.

Photos coming. It's close to the starter but it's clear and that's good enough.
 
I can put my finger between the header bottom terminal on the starter, and have about 0.10 between the header and the solenoid at the closest point

It sits smack up against the steering gear though. It looks like it was meant to be a little bit forward so it fits through a curve cast into the body of the gear. Don't know what I'm going to do with that; maybe I've got the mounts on wrong? Shims made it worse.

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Had to grind a little off the bellhousing.

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I used a wire clamp and the bellhousing support bolt hole to strap the battery cable against the block.

I've got it sitting pretty level and supported on the cart. Note the driver's side photo above isn't on the hook.

Other than the tube touching the steering box, I think it's ready to roll under and lift. I'm going to experiment with the load balancer to get it set where it will lift the engine straight up as much as possible.

Probably won't do much today, I have a welded wire fence to string next door while I've got a helper.
 
The starter-terminal clearance looks like about a mile to me, so I think you're fine there. I haven't used the cable adapter block yet since it either hit the block (my 440+6) or created clearance issues with the cables to the headers on my hot rods. Anytime I've used a mini-starter on a 100% stock car, the starter used was one that came off one of the previous hot rods. 😁 I've had the Nintendo starter on about six cars, but I've only ever bought two. They're pretty durable.

Also, once the K-member is properly supported, the steering box location relative to the header (engine) will change. The mount insulators are still visibly deformed. I don't think I'd worry too much about that situation until the K-member and trans crossmember bolted to the car. Only then will you see where everything will truly sit.
 
Also, once the K-member is properly supported, the steering box location relative to the header (engine) will change. The mount insulators are still visibly deformed. I don't think I'd worry too much about that situation until the K-member and trans crossmember bolted to the car. Only then will you see where everything will truly sit.
Good point I had forgotten that there's a piece of 2x4 holding up the engine at the pain/draglink. Once it's in and the trans mount is on it's definitely going to change all that. I appreciate that heads up.

I haven't used the cable adapter block yet since it either hit the block (my 440+6) or created clearance issues with the cables to the headers on my hot rods.

I left the adapter block on this time because it didn't matter. I've got one that came on the other mini-starter and created problems on a 440 so off it came.
 
I left the adapter block on this time because it didn't matter. I've got one that came on the other mini-starter and created problems on a 440 so off it came.
It literally hit the engine block on my 440, as in "dead short" of the positive cable. 😬
 
It was probably the same on mine and there's evidence that even without that I had to trim down the main stud to install it
 
Now the power steering hose doesn't fit. I thought I ordered the right thing, now I'm wondering if I'll be able to use this pump/bracket or not because there is no earthly way the hose I've got is going to connect to the pump.

It had a Federal pump on the 400, this is a newer model Saginaw. There's not enough room between it and the k-frame to get the hose in place.

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The nut at the bottom is the pressure outlet. This is the hose I bought, top is the pump end. There's no way that's going in that tiny gap.


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The hose for the car the pump bracket came from has a male connector on both ends. Overlooking that for now, it doesn't look like it would fit in that small gap either. No surprise due to the change from biscuit to spool.
 
Please take a photo of it. Your car has a spool mount so that might make a difference but I'd still like to see it to know.

I'm going to dig out the other hose. The Federal pump connects similarly to this one so it might just work. IIRC it can be a real pain to get a hydro hose off a power steering pump that isn't mounted to the engine because it's dang near impossible to hold it and turn that tight fitting. It might also fit this small block bracket.
 
Please take a photo of it. Your car has a spool mount so that might make a difference but I'd still like to see it to know.
Rusty's car has biscuit mounts. E-bodies never made the change to spool mounts. Regardless, spool mounts really don't gain a ton of clearance, if any. Contrary to semi-popular belief, they also don't locate the engine any differently than the biscuit mounts. The engine's in the exact-same place, best borne out by the fact that 1972 and 1973 A- and B-bodies use the same bellhousing and clutch linkage per car line (A obviously doesn't fit B), in the case of the A-body the bell-side ball stud is the same... speaking of which, I hope you know which bell you have because they don't interchange between the '71-older and '72-up bellhousings.

Anyhow, per Ye Olde Factoree Parts Manuall, the 1971 with V8 Valiant/Duster used the Federal PS pump, although it's not the clearest matter to discern since they use "with 3/8 threaded hole pump shaft" (Federal) and "with key-slotted pump shaft" (Sagging Gnaw). That hose is part #3420193. That seems to be the case in 1972 as well, since the same number is the only thing listed for Valiant/Duster V8 models. Of course, the Federal pump's lines come in from the side, not the rear.

What's strange to me is that the E-bodies do have a small-block Saginaw pump listed in those same years (2891218). Yes, it's a different car, but it's the same block. The relationship between mounting holes, motor mounts, and such don't change. The E-body Saginaw hose, #2891208, looks suspiciously like what you ordered. The "correct" Sag pump for that year would have the "pill bottle" reservoir, but the pump itself is the same in terms of outlet fitting(s) and mounting provisions.

Since I actually own a '71 LA-engined Mopar with power steering, I thought to look through my own pictures. While I don't have a clear shot of it, the one picture I do have shows the early-style Sag pump reservoir, but no hose behind the pump, i.e. nothing visible. The factory put a battery tray in my way:

PSteer.jpg

The area highlighted in yellow NE of the accursed tray is the garage floor. There's nothing behind that pump, but I'm almost certain the hoses are in place (in fact, I think one's visible under the battery cables). If you're wondering why I have so much clearance behind the pump, it's because my car has AC, which moves the pump even further forward (check out the offset in the rear bracket compared to yours).

But, and this is important, there's no qualifier for AC in the PS hoses. There's only one pressure hose listed for LA-equipped E-bucket with Sag steering, and it looks like what you've got. I suspect that the hose, in your case anyhow, needs to be installed first and that the hard-line end immediately goes beneath the pump headed toward the core support, hooking back around to point the rubber part toward the steering box, which also has a direction-reversing metal end.

I'll try to get over to yon storage area this afternoon to see what secrets that battery tray is hiding.
 
Hey I gotta run (Easter) but just spent an hour of quality time with the PS pump and here's what I found.

There's no way the hose will fit.

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That is with it pulled all the way up and there seems to be nowhere to go in the other direction. I did scan and saw Jass noted it should go toward the core support, and he is right. It just won't fit this K-frame.

The pump from the 400 is on the left. The brackets are very similar other than how they attach to the pump.

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It has a side exit.
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I thought it might fit the brackets, but no. The spacer is way short.

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To use the Federal pump I need a bracket that doesn't have that dogleg in it. Checked one vendor, found each and every part to hang the pump including bolts for $90. Ouch. And I just looked again and it's every bracket but the ones that mount to the block. I don't need those.

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When I get back I'll go back and read all the info Jass posted. Maybe there's a different way out of this.
 

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Contrary to semi-popular belief, they also don't locate the engine any differently than the biscuit mounts
I'm not saying it moves the engine, I'm saying that I don't think there is a huge slab welded in there to support the biscuit mount. I haven't looked at one, maybe they're the same.

the 1971 with V8 Valiant/Duster used the Federal PS pump,

Having read through your post now, I think the conclusion is I gotta get the right bracket for my Federal pump and then I can use the hose from the 400, and using the cooler is no longer an option.

Anyone want a rebuilt Saginaw PS pump with brackets, new hoses, and a cooler?

This is what I think I need, just to get that one piece-part but at least I can get it.
Fits Mopar Power Steering Pump Brackets Federal 70-72 318 340 Duster Challenger | eBay
 
Van's had the best deal on the full kit. It's too late to worry about saving $50 by finding just the engine brackets on this thing.
 
Not sure where your at, but if you have the same fitting you might need the hose I got, it goes up first?
here's a bunch a pics? 20240331_122921.jpg20240331_122742.jpg20240331_122758.jpg20240331_122834.jpgFrom the bottom............20240331_130805.jpg
 
Ugh, I noticed yesterday that ARP flywheel bolts call for 75 lb/ft, but the factory bolts only use 50 lb/ft. Of course I didn't notice the fortune cookie sized piece of paper that is printed on, and the parts had already been unboxed for balancing. So I referred to the FSM.

I really wish I hadn't noticed that because it's probably fine but now I'll either worry about it for a year or spend a couple of evenings disassembling/reassembling it to be sure.

Torquing the flywheel and PP are the only tasks I couldn't do alone so I have to admit my mistake to Gina if I end up taking it back apart :D

Also starting to figure how the lift in is going to go and realized I really should strap the k-frame to the cart because it never wants to go back in the same place when I lift it and set it back down. If the assembly is under the car and I then lift it off the cart, it's going to be more difficult at that point to get it back in the right (safe) place if I have to put it down.

I also need to play my cards right to minimize the distance I have to lift it to mate it to the body.
 
The difference between ARP & factory torque specs is whether you used ARP's lubrication on the bolts. Because of the reduced friction, you need a higher number to hit the same bolt stretch. If you didn't use their goo, you're fine. If you did, you're probably fine, but I'd definitely be paying attention at the outset for things like excessive clutch chatter or mystery vibrations.

Rusty's car has a lot more space behind the pump because, like my '71, it's an AC car. Again, the difference in offset stamped into the block bracket (at the timing cover) is tremendous.

Anyone want a rebuilt Saginaw PS pump with brackets, new hoses, and a cooler?
Maybe? I'm unsure of the condition of the pump on my '71. I'm fairly sure the hose is "right enough" but I've got to get to the car and get it started to know if the pump is OK. If you're able to sell it, go ahead... it might be a couple of months before I make any headway--I still have the Valiants to which I should really attend whence I feel well enough to do so.
 
The power went off on Tuesday, came back on today. TIme off work good, no lights bad. Can't really get anything accomplished without it. It's dark in that cave of a garage.

I brushed some ARP lube on the threads but nothing under the heads and all that.

I hung the pump today, need to buy a different hose. Gonna need a long belt too.

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