My 71 Duster work in progress

I tried the carb square but if you think about it, it's only .010 or so difference, and I'm a 62 year old diabetic who has started at screens for my entire adult life. So, I can't see it good enough to say yay or nay.

I'm back on the trail of my spring compressor. Now that I know they don't turn, seems I need to compress the spring just enough to where i can turn the valve/spring to a more accommodating spot relative to the rocker arm.. Then it either straightens up through use or it doesn't but either way I've got clearance.
 
Call 'em back! "Hey, I called you jackasses last week about some pushrods, and your putz was supposed to call me back. Down home that'd getcha strung up. You gonna sell me some pushrods, or do I have to continue with the what-fer?!"

Except, y'know, more politely than that. Don't go full Kornfeld on 'em.
 
2 more hours in the garage, still no valve spring compressor.

I'm about to go to the tried and true way to find it, where as soon as I buy a replacement, I find the missing one. They're cheap, $11 at Harbor Freight, $17 at Auto Zone.

I just hope my hair brained scheme works to crank down the spring just a little bit and turn the valve around.
 
2 walked off one jobsite and returned to another.
I once had a pair of cool guy Bruce Willis on Moonlighting sunglasses that I paid a lot of money for especially given my income level at the time. I walked off and left them in a bar bathroom so they were gonzo before I even realized I had left them.

The next year I went on travel to New Hampshire for work, looked through all the drawers and under everything in the hotel room just because, and danged if I didn't find an identical pair of sunnies under the bed.
 
$100 + shipping, should be ready Thursday.
Ready for shipping today. They will send me a paypal invoice once they've got a price and will ship after I pay.

Man I hope these are at least usable, length-wise. My only concern is a lack of accuracy measuring the adjustable pushrod. It was definitely within a 1/16 of an inch (.0625) of what I called it (7.250) and I think I left adjustability to cover that. Measuring it with a tape rule will only get you so close but I also felt like I'm close enough it'll be OK. I'll find out soon enough.
 
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Then I thought about it some more. I think 7.08 is the right length. I could've measured things more accurately but it's not needed.
My only concern is a lack of accuracy measuring the adjustable pushrod. It was definitely within a 1/16 of an inch (.0625) of what I called it (7.250) and I think I left adjustability to cover that. Measuring it with a tape rule will only get you so close but I also felt like I'm close enough it'll be OK. I'll find out soon enough.
Call me confused here.

However, this is one of the main reasons I bought a 12" digital caliper.
 
Call me confused here.
I was just trying to say, I think I'm within 1/16" of an inch even using the tape rule, and I've got enough adjustment to make it up in the worst case.

I'm telling myself it's going to turn out perfect until I find out otherwise.

However, this is one of the main reasons I bought a 12" digital caliper.
Not a bad idea

A frustrating thing to ponder - when I put the crane adjustables on the A12 w/hydraulic cam I just bought a standard length pushrod. Definitely didn't use an adjustable pushrod to figure anything out.
 
A frustrating thing to ponder - when I put the crane adjustables on the A12 w/hydraulic cam I just bought a standard length pushrod. Definitely didn't use an adjustable pushrod to figure anything out.
I'm sure this would be the case if someone was making replacement T/A pushrods, but nobody seems to be doing so. The Comp cup-end hydraulic are too long. The T/A engine was the only hydraulic-lifter LA engine that used OE adjustable lifters.
 
The pushrods arrived yesterday. I put the 6 in I was measuring since they lifters are in and on the heel of the cam and they seem to fit fine (y) They could've been a skosh longer, maybe 7.1 instead of 7.08 but they should be fine.
 
Just don't use his method, since the adjustment on Chevrolet engines is done at the rocker pivot, whereas the Chrysler's adjustments act directly on the lifter.
 
Just don't use his method, since the adjustment on Chevrolet engines is done at the rocker pivot, whereas the Chrysler's adjustments act directly on the lifter.
:unsure:
I wondered if that would make a difference but couldn't see a reason why it would.
 
Well, I didn't watch the entire video. I assumed he's going by turns/threads, like most people do (self included). Obviously, the number of turns made at the fulcrum of a lever to adjust its end lash are not going to be the same as adjusting the end of a lever directly (i.e., at the pushrod). It's been a few decades since I did a fulcrum adjustment, but I remember it being different because of the triangulation.
 

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