My 71 Duster work in progress

[b-body-bob]

Case


Cheetah


Coan

 

[b-body-bob]

4-speed w/ Lakewood


Factory bell


Fork


It's had the length adjusted

 

[69.5CUDA]

if you pickup a used hyd master...which can be had CHEEP, and the rebuilds for em are cheep too..you can save atleast 100$ right off the hop...i assume the best way to do it from there is a hard line to a softline then into a hyd throwout bearing..unless theres some kind of slave setup that works

whatever you do...stay the fuck away from the "plastic cup" masters.."eventualy" they will leak and start a fire

 

[69.5CUDA]

another thought..is to take a solid look at the headers..maybe you can fab up a 2 piece Z bar that goes THRU the headers...hell ive even seen some wacky truck z bars that had been cut apart and a big U shape added to them to clear shit

 

[b-body-bob]

if you pickup a used hyd master...which can be had CHEEP, and the rebuilds for em are cheep too..you can save atleast 100$ right off the hop...i assume the best way to do it from there is a hard line to a softline then into a hyd throwout bearing..unless theres some kind of slave setup that works

whatever you do...stay the fuck away from the "plastic cup" masters.."eventualy" they will leak and start a fire

If I do this I'll buy a kit. I don't have time or patience to try several things that don't work before giving up

another thought..is to take a solid look at the headers..maybe you can fab up a 2 piece Z bar that goes THRU the headers...hell ive even seen some wacky truck z bars that had been cut apart and a big U shape added to them to clear shit

From what I've read the way to make a 4-speed work with Shumachers is to cut the collector off and relocate it.

 

[b-body-bob]

Just called, no answer at the tech support extension.

Photo from their web site makes it look like the oil hole is meant to be blocked but it should have 3 holes in it

 

[b-body-bob]

I called again and it's going to be taken care of.

I need to take a photo of the whole back of it and send it so they can make sure I'm getting the right part (and I'm sure also to be sure I'm not BSing them). I need to do it and compare it to the photo from their website anyway.

One thing I noticed on it and you can see it on the photo above - the linkage doesn't have the throttle pressure connection on it. Kinda nice compared to the Cheetah that still has it even though it doesn't do anything. Kinda wasted effort too though

Since I'm going to get to remove the separator plate I'm going to ask for a diagram so I can make sure everything goes back where it should when I put it together.

 

[Dr.Jass]

4-speed w/ Lakewood


Factory bell


Fork


It's had the length adjusted

This is all for the Duster, right? I like the protection of the Lakewood bell, but man it's a pain. If you plan on using it, let me know before you start. There's at least one thing you should do that I didn't think of until after it was installed, and I can't do it without pulling it.

That cast-iron bell is 1964 only big-block B-body, in case you weren't aware.

The forks are easily gotten new. I don't think I'd screw around with hacked-together junk like that.

 

[b-body-bob]

This is all for the Duster, right? I like the protection of the Lakewood bell, but man it's a pain. If you plan on using it, let me know before you start. There's at least one thing you should do that I didn't think of until after it was installed, and I can't do it without pulling it.

That cast-iron bell is 1964 only big-block B-body, in case you weren't aware.

The forks are easily gotten new. I don't think I'd screw around with hacked-together junk like that.

I've had a Lakewood in two b-bodies - they're not bad at all in one of those. I understand you have to bash the pinch weld flat on an a-body so I'm not planning on using it. The 64 bellhousing shouldn't make any difference since I'll be using a hydraulic throwout if this happens. I might need to shop around more if I was planning to use the z-bar.

The weird thing about that fork is it was lengthened - I'd think if you'd do anything to make it work in an a-body it would be to shorten it.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I understand you have to bash the pinch weld flat on an a-body so I'm not planning on using it. The 64 bellhousing shouldn't make any difference since I'll be using a hydraulic throwout if this happens. I might need to shop around more if I was planning to use the z-bar.

No pinchweld bashing required unless your car suddenly becomes about 7 years older. The blowproof fits fine in my car, but the starter's an absolute bitch to install/service--my suggestion was to weld a nut to the bell to install a lower stud, which would simplify things greatly. We also spent a lot of time making sure it was centered to the crankshaft considering the RPM that engine will likely see.

The fork was probably modified to either align with an incorrect countershaft or to lessen pedal effort. I have '72 pedals in my Valiant, with the stock fork and a 2,800lb McLeod Borg & Beck plate. Clutch effort is surprisingly light, in fact I'd say it's as light or only slightly stiffer than the spongy OE hydraulic setup in my '92 Dakota. It's actually smoother, too, probably because I tossed the crappy rubber pushrod grommet/washer for the steel ball used on trucks. I also lubricated every metal-to-metal contact point with Slip Plate (amazing stuff).

I mentioned the bellhousing solely because of its potential value, being one year only and the first year of A833. I think most of that '62-'65 stuff is fairly unique, not that I've researched very far. However, Brewer's wants $500 for it, or $100 more than a new aluminum one.

 

[b-body-bob]

At the cost of shipping large heavy things these days I'm going to just use that bellhousing if I go ahead with the 4-speed idea. Gina announced today she's not interested in the RB and 4-speed idea because she doubts she will be able to drive it. Do I care? Yeah a little bit anyway.

I started the math on switching to a small block for her. Summit has a small block 727, free shipping, for about $2k. Either way I go it's more $$ than I want to put in the car.

FWIW when I was putting the 727 back together it didn't pass the air test on the rear drum. It checked out outside the case, but now with the pump installed something went sideways. Probably related to the clutch piston. Back apart one more time ...

 

[b-body-bob]

I was just thinking, which isn't necessarily a good idea, but had an idea to forego modifying the K-frame for a big block at all.

A) the engine that's in it now has the elephant ears floating the oill pump about 3/4" above the K-frame mount, and there's no problem,
B) the Schumacher instructions for cutting the K-frame has me cutting about 1/2" deep notch in the K-frame mount,

So given A and B, would it make sense to try and figure out a different motor mount biscuit that adds enough thickness or a spacer to add enough room to get the oil pump above the K-frame? I think I'd only need 1/2-3/4", and of course I'd need it on both sides.

Making a spacer would be easiest but there might be trouble extending the stud to reach through the K-frame to bolt it in place. I expect that it's too long now to let me bolt the spacer to the K-frame and the biscuit to the spacer.

I really don't like the idea of cutting the motor mount back as far toward the oval hole as is apparently needed. A 1/4" ain't much for support, or to weld a support to for that matter.



FWIW the biscuit used in the TransDapt kit is "TD 4221; OE pads for 69-71 Dodge D/W-Series truck (225/3.7L) (ie: 2266, 602266)", maybe our favorite parts guy has a book with dimensions and can poke around some?

 

[Dr.Jass]

Try part number 2265. It should be essentially the same mount, but in the Oreo Double-Stuf version.

 

[b-body-bob]

Dimensions for a 2265 mount
Product Dimensions ‎5.1 x 4.1 x 3.4 inches

the TD part crosses to a 602266
‎5.6 x 4.3 x 3.7 inches

According to that they're essentially the same other than the studs/bolts aren't offset on the 2265

 

[b-body-bob]

Picturing it in my mind I'm wondering using a thicker mount could result in the holes not lining up between the biscuit and everything else. Adding a spacer is going to move the top bolt/stud up.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Dimensions for a 2265 mount
Product Dimensions ‎5.1 x 4.1 x 3.4 inches

the TD part crosses to a 602266
‎5.6 x 4.3 x 3.7 inches

According to that they're essentially the same other than the studs/bolts aren't offset on the 2265

You do realize those are the dimensions of the box in which they're delivered, right?

The 2265 is absolutely offset. I can't swear it's the same amount, but it's offset.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Anchor 2469 is very similar, but has built-in limiter tabs. It might not be as thick.

 

[b-body-bob]

You do realize those are the dimensions of the box in which they're delivered, right?

I did not know that. Boy ain't that useful info.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Picturing it in my mind I'm wondering using a thicker mount could result in the holes not lining up between the biscuit and everything else. Adding a spacer is going to move the top bolt/stud up.

Well, you've got fairly generous slots at the bases on the K-member. Ain't no federal law what says you can't slot the mount brackets as well (I looked, there isn't). Just back up the nut with a beefy washer. Also, if the truck mount has less offset to the studs, it might be a self-solving problem.

I've read elsewhere that all the Trans-Dapt Slant-to-LA mounts really are is a pair of factory-style brackets using a truck mount on the passenger's side. I can confirm that the RH one is a 2469 because it's got the limiter tabs. It's a bit ironic because it's on the wrong side. If I ever get the notion to pull the engine, I'll try another 2469 on the driver's side. We had to put a spacer in that one for the header to clear the steering box.

 

[b-body-bob]

if the truck mount has less offset to the studs, it might be a self-solving problem.

That's a good point.

If I can work this out, the engine should sit more level than it does right now, level doesn't seem to be a concept that is strictly needed so 1/2-3/4" isn't going to hurt a thing, and I don't have to hack my K-frame. I kind of wonder why they didn't do this to begin with, and definitely wonder what it is that I must be missing.

the Trans-Dapt Slant-to-LA mounts really are is a pair of factory-style brackets using a truck mount on the passenger's side.

IIRC the kit I bought uses the same biscuit on both sides, which was originally for the right side of a /6 pickup truck.