My 71 Duster work in progress

[b-body-bob]

Yeah, there's a guy here that picks and chooses from people that hang around, I don't have time for that. I was on his list twice, the second time he didn't remember the first time.

The shop that's got my rr doesn't seem like they're ever going to do anything with it, judging from their facebook. They're working on everything else but mine. FML.

 

[b-body-bob]

I noticed that there was no front thrust washer between the front drum and the pump/stator support.

I found that one. It was right where it should have been, but I was distracted by the on-going house water problems.

I stacked it up and thought I had it together right but apparently not because there is no endplay at all now.

I can't pick it up to put it on the wheelbarrow so I strapped it to my cherry picker to lift it and ended up using that to hold it vertical so I could get the parts stacked.



Other photos show a gap between the front drum and the "sun shell" or whatever that thing is called, but apparently it's not quite right yet.

 

[b-body-bob]

I've still got no end play after a couple hours of take it apart put it together type action. I gave the input and the output shafts a light "bonk" to try to seat them but no joy.

It definitely had "some" end play before. I measured it the factory way, pushing the input shaft in and pulling it out with the end play being the difference between the two extremes and IIRC it had .015 - factory calls for .037-.084.

There's also an "internet" way of measuring the end play, standing the transmission on end to take any play in the tailshaft area out of the equation. Obviously you would expect less end play that way.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I have a set of new reproduction '66-'70 B-body clutch pedals... just so you're aware. I can hook you up if necessary.

 

[b-body-bob]

That's an idea - I've got some 4-speed parts that came with the Duster that I could use but probably none of it would be usable behind the internally balanced engine but the bellhousing(s). I need to check it out, but there's a chance the flywheel is balanced for a 400.

Anyway ... I've got the linkage for the road runner column shifter so I'm invested and can't turn back now. Once the Duster has a RMVB trans in it, I can take the throttle pressure linkage from it to modify/reuse on the roadrunner.

 

[69.5CUDA]

actualy the flywheel would be the only thinng in need of balance

 

[Dr.Jass]

Flywheel? Flywheel?! Why, c'mon down to Jass' Rotatin' Roundup! We gots new, we gots pre-owned, jintly used, internal, external, billet, even al-you-minimum. If we ain't got it, you don't need it! [cracks whip]

 

[b-body-bob]

FWIW I have a repeatable .017 end play, so I'm going to drop .020 off one of the fiber thrust washers.

Rule of thumb is to allow .015 per friction, so with 6 frictions in the front pack I need .090 clearance. I've got about .110 so I need a .020 thicker snap ring if I can find one.

The rear piston has about .035 clearance. I may buy one of those HD springs to help with that.

 

[b-body-bob]

I'm about to press go on an order for a

• thicker snap ring for the front clutch pack
• thinner thrust washer for #1 or #2 position
• HD Belleview spring kit
• rear servo piston spacer
• 3.8 lever
• brass filter
• gasket/seal/ring kit
• assembly lube
• "Door-Ease"

The door-ease is for rubber lip seals. The last time I just used Vaseline.

(I mostly wrote that out to try to make sure I haven't forgotten anything.)

I could just buy a new replacement Belleville spring but haven't heard good things about them. If that was all I could find I'd just re-use the one I've got.

 

[b-body-bob]

Boy am I ever tired of saying it but FML

I ordered that stupid Belleville spring on Friday, then they sat on the order until Tuesday before shipping it. Now UPS has delivered it. Somewhere. Not here. I walked the hood but nobody else had a box on their porch. Claim filed.

It probably won't help things anyway.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

At least you almost got it! Half the stuff I've ordered recently is on back order, no estimated dates just BO!

 

[Dr.Jass]

I prefer shipping stuff to work if at all possible because it's harder to f__k up a commercial address. The problem is, for the extra couple of miles the shipping charges often double or even triple (it's across a state line).

Call the vendor tomorrow and verify the address. It's about the only option now.

At least you almost got it! Half the stuff I've ordered recently is on back order, no estimated dates just BO!

If you're ordering Mopar Performance stuff, just save yourself the headaches and cancel any orders now. I recently checked five parts listed as available on their website against the actual Chrysler system. Four of them are discontinued despite what the site says.

 

[b-body-bob]

bad news good news. I sold my CTD last week, and today I bought a real POS old Durango DAKOTA to replace it, leaving $6000 in my pocket.

V6 5 speed, 170k but runs and drives fine. A little rust in the rockers and starting around the wheel wells, been wrecked and fixed good enough, frame and everything under it looks fine. Just brought it back about 40 miles, no surprises.

Now to find a small block for the Duster and start thinking about a small block/4speed combination.

 

[Dr.Jass]

That's a Dakota, sport.

Not sure what year it is, but it may well have an AX15 in it. It's a pretty strong transmission if it does, but stronger-yet options include the semi-legendary Toyota R154, as well as the GM Canyon/Colorado 2WD and Solstice/Sky transmissions, which are virtual copies of the R154 but without the steel midplate (not quite as strong). All three bolt directly to the existing bellhousing. For that reason, those bellhousings bring pretty good money. I kept the one out of my '92 Dakota, which was definitely an AX15... I still have the transmission as well.

It should go without saying that the 3.9 has the same bellhousing as the LA engines, which is why it's valuable. It's a easy way to put a strong 5-speed behind a small block.

 

[69.5CUDA]

..wouldnt that same 5spd be a pretty hefty upgrade for a valiant...just sayin

 

[Dr.Jass]

..wouldnt that same 5spd be a pretty hefty upgrade for a valiant...just sayin

Not over a close-ratio A833, at least in terms of strength. Like any other aluminum-case 5-speed that comes to mind, after a couple of high-RPM clutch dumps on sticky tires and a prepared track, it'll belch the countershaft.

I briefly considered it for the Imperial, but with boost you want less gears, not more. Preferably a converter, too, but that's not something I'm considering.

 

[69.5CUDA]

gotcha however..would not that 5spd been ideal for long ones slanty?
and yeah boost loves a converter and gets real fun when you can spool it up....dont get me wrong i loved my minivan with the short throw 5spd turbo..but the auto was sooooooooo much better light to light, but the 5spd made the corners come alive...3 footing a turbo becomes a requirement with a manual

 

[b-body-bob]

That's a Dakota, sport.

Not sure what year it is, but it may well have an AX15 in it. It's a pretty strong transmission if it does, but stronger-yet options include the semi-legendary Toyota R154, as well as the GM Canyon/Colorado 2WD and Solstice/Sky transmissions, which are virtual copies of the R154 but without the steel midplate (not quite as strong). All three bolt directly to the existing bellhousing. For that reason, those bellhousings bring pretty good money. I kept the one out of my '92 Dakota, which was definitely an AX15... I still have the transmission as well.

It should go without saying that the 3.9 has the same bellhousing as the LA engines, which is why it's valuable. It's a easy way to put a strong 5-speed behind a small block.

Dangit, I've been doing that since I started looking for the CTD replacement. Sometimes I catch myself, sometimes I don't.

It's got something going on with the exhaust, sounds like a blown doughnut gasket and you have to roll the window down to avoid being poisoned. Plans are to get it up on jack stands today to give it a once over, but plans can change. TBH I expect to find a broken stud between the head pipe and manifold since that's about the worst case.

There's a guy with a 408 supposedly "pro built" about 2-1/2 hours away for $5500. I'm skeptical though. The guy I bought the truck from kept warning us to be careful about Facebook ads, like I didn't know that already. Then he showed me his pistol and I wondered if I should be careful about him, but it turned out OK.

 

[Dr.Jass]

There's a guy with a 408 supposedly "pro built" about 2-1/2 hours away for $5500. I'm skeptical though. The guy I bought the truck from kept warning us to be careful about Facebook ads, like I didn't know that already. Then he showed me his pistol and I wondered if I should be careful about him, but it turned out OK.

Total overkill. The 2-barrel 360 out of your motorhome would be a great plenty in a 2WD Dakota, but your thought process is a lot like mine.

Seriously, a mild 360 would be a riot in that thing.

 

[b-body-bob]

Total overkill. The 2-barrel 360 out of your motorhome would be a great plenty in a 2WD Dakota, but your thought process is a lot like mine.

Seriously, a mild 360 would be a riot in that thing.

I meant for the Duster. The V6 is plenty for the Dakotarango.