My 71 Duster work in progress

[b-body-bob]

I removed the shifter and 4-speed hump to come up with an idea of how to install the shifter without making a mess of the carpet and allow the carpet to be used in the future if/when I switch things to a small block 4-speed. The hump was held in with sheet metal screws and stickum, so I pulled the shifter and hump off in one piece to give easy access to the shifter bolts.

The best idea I've been able to come up with for the carpet so far is to put in a neat round hole, and use a grommet when the cable is needed and a plug when it's not. Cut a neat(ish) X in the carpet for the cable to exit through and slap some gaffer tape under it to close it off when the cable isn't needed. The cable has to exit the front of the shifter so there's no way to run the cable completely under the carpet.





I'm also thinking of fabbing up a mounting bracket so I can limit the shifter bolts to being just in the cover over the 4-speed shifter opening. Right now it bolts to that and to the hump itself.

In other news, I might have figured out why you can't buy an A-body lower fender brace thing (between bottom of fender and bumper bracket). I found what should be a b-body part, and it fits too, so there might not be a specific A-body part. I need to find one that for sure came off a b-body to confirm it though.

I also pulled the distributor out and gave it a close look. It doesn't seem like there's any play in it that would contribute to the jumpy timing. That is not good news. I'll follow up on that more once I've got the shifter reinstalled so I feel safe starting the car.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Seeing that thing brings back memories of the horror that was my Hurst Pro Stick. The shifter itself wasn't a bad unit, but cables just plain suck.

 

[b-body-bob]

That's pretty much why I didn't disconnect everything from the bottom. I've fought that battle before and don't need a reprise.

BTW I set the tires on a set of those plastic molded ramps because I was tired of carefully positioning stands and still not getting them where they needed to be on the first try. I jacked the car up, slide one in from the front the other from the rear to help prevent the car from rolling away. Then I dropped it down on the ramps and gave her a good shaking from the side. All at once one of those ramps "popped" and I about crapped myself. I think it was just the weight settling them level on the pavement but didn't make it any less of a holy shit moment.

Which reminds me ... there's something clacking around under there when I shake it. I need to get a helper to do the shaking while I'm under figuring out what's making the racket.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Which reminds me ... there's something clacking around under there when I shake it. I need to get a helper to do the shaking while I'm under figuring out what's making the racket.

If you only had someone like a wife or girlfriend around (emphasis on "or"--both is not recommended) to help you with stuff like that.

There's this gal I know of from the internet... friend of a friend, goes by "Gina". You two might really hit it off.

 

[Dr.Jass]

In other news, I might have figured out why you can't buy an A-body lower fender brace thing (between bottom of fender and bumper bracket). I found what should be a b-body part, and it fits too, so there might not be a specific A-body part. I need to find one that for sure came off a b-body to confirm it though.

I looked this up in the 1969 parts book, because the '70-'71 book is kind of a pain and the fender brace should be the same between '69-'71 on the non-Barracuda Plymouth A-bodies (the fender didn't change much). It's not actually shown in the catalog, but I figured it out via the group number and came up with 2579904, which one fella has for sale on eBay as fitting '66-'67 A/B-body (the part number told me it was very possible). It's NOS and $59, so it's a matter of how bad a fella wants it I guess. The B-body part shown in the catalog is 2786935. Both part numbers fit either left or right applications.

Group number firmly entrenched in my brain, I verified that 2579904 fits A-bodies 1967-'74 except Barracuda and '73-'74 Dodge models (which lacked them entirely), as well as all 1966-'67 B-bodies as Mr. eBay claimed. 2786935 fits 1968-'70 B-bodies except Chargers and '70 Dodge models. Nothing with a loop bumper or nose cone (winged cars) used them. I also found that E-bodies didn't use them, which will save me a bunch of searching come assembly time.

Back to "how bad a fella wants it" again. There's a pretty good selection of A-bodies at a yard I'll be visiting on the 27th, if all goes to plan. There are also a couple of '66-'67 B-bodies. If'n you wants you a pair, say the word. If the greedy bastage charges me at all, it won't be much... might grab a pair for Agnes, in fact. If you want a pair, say the word.

 

[b-body-bob]

If you only had someone like a wife or girlfriend around (emphasis on "or"--both is not recommended) to help you with stuff like that.

There's this gal I know of from the internet... friend of a friend, goes by "Gina". You two might really hit it off.

... ask her for help and the next thing you know you're pouring a slab and building something.

 

[b-body-bob]

I looked this up in the 1969 parts book, because the '70-'71 book is kind of a pain and the fender brace should be the same between '69-'71 on the non-Barracuda Plymouth A-bodies (the fender didn't change much). It's not actually shown in the catalog, but I figured it out via the group number and came up with 2579904, which one fella has for sale on eBay as fitting '66-'67 A/B-body (the part number told me it was very possible). It's NOS and $59, so it's a matter of how bad a fella wants it I guess. The B-body part shown in the catalog is 2786935. Both part numbers fit either left or right applications.

Group number firmly entrenched in my brain, I verified that 2579904 fits A-bodies 1967-'74 except Barracuda and '73-'74 Dodge models (which lacked them entirely), as well as all 1966-'67 B-bodies as Mr. eBay claimed. 2786935 fits 1968-'70 B-bodies except Chargers and '70 Dodge models. Nothing with a loop bumper or nose cone (winged cars) used them. I also found that E-bodies didn't use them, which will save me a bunch of searching come assembly time.

Back to "how bad a fella wants it" again. There's a pretty good selection of A-bodies at a yard I'll be visiting on the 27th, if all goes to plan. There are also a couple of '66-'67 B-bodies. If'n you wants you a pair, say the word. If the greedy bastage charges me at all, it won't be much... might grab a pair for Agnes, in fact. If you want a pair, say the word.

I've got a $90 set stuck in my ebay app so it keeps reminding me they're still for sale. No shit.

I'll get back to you on the JY trip. I know I've got a pair for the road runner that will confirm if a b-body part will fit or not, I just don't know what box they're in. Sound familiar?

I know there aren't any a-bodies with fenders left at the yard here, or at least any that he will sell parts from.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I've got a $90 set stuck in my ebay app so it keeps reminding me they're still for sale. No shit.

You must want 'em pretty badly. I don't think I'd pay $20 for 'em unless I was doing a restoration... and even then, it'd be a hard sell. There are literally millions of them out there, and probably at least five sets in the junkyard I'll be visiting.

I'll get back to you on the JY trip. I know I've got a pair for the road runner that will confirm if a b-body part will fit or not, I just don't know what box they're in. Sound familiar?

I have no idea what you mean.

 

[b-body-bob]

You must want 'em pretty badly. I don't think I'd pay $20 for 'em unless I was doing a restoration... and even then, it'd be a hard sell. There are literally millions of them out there, and probably at least five sets in the junkyard I'll be visiting.

I didn't say I wanted them, I said they were stuck in my watchlist in the app $10 each sounds about fair, but $10 a pair sounds better.

I replaced the jamb switches yesterday. Surprising that you can't use general purpose one wire switches, but you can't unless you want to hack the harness. But I have a working dome light now, and remembered to pick up an antenna gasket too so that's all installed now.

Still working on the shifter and hump, in my mind. I looked for pre-built shifter mounts and there didn't seem to be anything for this lower end shifter (B&M Pro Ratchet). All I need is to come up with is something that bolts to a plate blocking the 4-speed shifter hole, raises the shifter up high enough to where I can put the 4-speed carpet trim in place (without the boot), and bolts to the frame of the shifter. I'm thinking some 1" spacers and square tubing will do the trick.

I also see that per the Holley (B&M) site that the shifter should have a NSS and BUL switch in it already. That would be good since the backup light switch in the trans isn't working.

 

[b-body-bob]

I also see that per the Holley (B&M) site that the shifter should have a NSS and BUL switch in it already. That would be good since the backup light switch in the trans isn't working.

I looked closer after not finding a switch or switches on the shifter, and see that the switches come in the box and the user has to install them. I guess whoever took it out of the box didn't do that. I guess it's possible that it's such an old model that they weren't an option then.

 

[69.5CUDA]

just find a switch that fits lol..i know my 1991 b&m quick silver has a spot for one nut didnt come with one in the box..bought it new at supershops

 

[Dr.Jass]

I also see that per the Holley (B&M) site that the shifter should have a NSS and BUL switch in it already. That would be good since the backup light switch in the trans isn't working.

Unless you wired the starter relay's ground wire directly, it's working. It's your wiring that's not working. I thought we addressed that a while back... wiring diagrams and the like. Just make it work as-designed; it's less trouble than the hokey shifter-mounted switch arrangement.

Still working on the shifter and hump, in my mind. I looked for pre-built shifter mounts and there didn't seem to be anything for this lower end shifter (B&M Pro Ratchet). All I need is to come up with is something that bolts to a plate blocking the 4-speed shifter hole, raises the shifter up high enough to where I can put the 4-speed carpet trim in place (without the boot), and bolts to the frame of the shifter. I'm thinking some 1" spacers and square tubing will do the trick.

I would strongly suggest putting the seat(s) back in place before you do this. I'm not sure if you've got a bench or buckets, but A-body shifters were mounted rather high and used long handles. B&M essentially designed that shifter for GM F-bodies so it might be a bit of a reach on a Mopar A-body. Yeah, it's an automatic but constantly bending to reach the shifter gets old quickly (as does a ratchet shifter, but I digress). Since you're raising the shifter anyhow, do your test fitting with the seat in place so you can determine a height that works comfortably from your normal driving position. Yes, the cable will be more visible, but you can always paint/vinyl dye the jacket black so it's not as obvious.

 

[69.5CUDA]

depending on the cable design you might be able to just sheath it with shrink wrap as well, i second the at the very least drivers seat in place, relax with one hand on the wheel 1 hand on the shifter

put it where you "think" is comfortable and then put both hands on the wheel close your eyes and reach for the shifter and when you reach down inevitably dont find it where it should be DO NOT move your arm or hand, open your eyes and look to see how much you need to move it and move it...repeat a few times, the trick here is that your memory is more important than your VISION, i learned this real fast building the lloyd due to the fact i was mounting well..everything in new places

 

[b-body-bob]

Unless you wired the starter relay's ground wire directly, it's working. It's your wiring that's not working. I thought we addressed that a while back... wiring diagrams and the like. Just make it work as-designed; it's less trouble than the hokey shifter-mounted switch arrangement.

The NSS is wired correctly, so I'll go back and revisit it, because I sure as hell don't want to take the switch out of the transmission with how tight the exhaust is there.

The way I understand it to work is the outside pins carry 12v (approx) or not when the trans is in reverse or not, and the center pin is grounded when the trans is in park or neutral. The outside pins go to the odd shaped connector on the firewall, the center pin goes to the starter relay. One wire on the odd shaped connector is always hot, the other wire goes to the light sockets When the car is in reverse, 12v from the hot wire passes through the switch and out on the wire back to the lights. That's from memory but I'm pretty sure that's the way it goes.

Thanks for all the advice on mounting the shifter high. I definitely agree about the difficulties of a ratchet shifter and don't run to run this thing any longer than I have to, but right now it's necessary.

Also, that hole in the hump from a punch and hammer is now a round hole that a plug or grommet will fit.

 

[69.5CUDA]

ive got a full manual vale body and love the ratchet,

what id recomend on the switch is to crawl under and put a meter on it and test it in N, R, P, as the reverse lights is the simplest system in the car, and changing out said switch is EASY

 

[b-body-bob]

ive got a full manual vale body and love the ratchet,

what id recomend on the switch is to crawl under and put a meter on it and test it in N, R, P, as the reverse lights is the simplest system in the car, and changing out said switch is EASY

The thing I don't like about the B&M rachet shifters is the reverse lock out. Sometimes I can flip it and get through, sometimes I have to stop think and look. I just don't like it.

I've got the same shifter in my roadrunner for the RMVB trans in that car.

I think I did go ahead and ring out the switch to confirm it's screwed up, but not sure.

I'm pretty sure I can't get a socket on the switch because the exhaust is right there. I thought I took photos but can find them. I might be able to get to it easier now that I've got the hump out of the car.

 

[Dr.Jass]

The thing I don't like about the B&M rachet shifters is the reverse lock out.

The thing I don't like about ratchet shifters is I like shit to stay where I put it. Then I know what gear it's in by feel rather than having to look at a shift indicator. I don't have to count ratchets since the handle is always in the middle. That's why I had the Hurst Pro Stick in my 'Doba. It's gated, rather than a ratchet, and second is a different location than first.

The factory ratcheting gate is far superior in both quality and feel to any aftermarket automatic unit I've ever experienced. Every Chrysler floor-shift automatic built after 1969 should've had it.

 

[b-body-bob]

I threw together a shifter mount that screws down where the 4-speed boot goes and raises the shifter up using a combo of 3/8 nuts and 3/4" square tube. I keep forgetting to bring the camera in though. With the setup I can put the 4speed carpet in and when the engine/trans swap happens, little to no work will be needed to the interior.

I didn't bother to put the seat in because the shifter is sitting right where the 4-speed shifter would be, and it's raised up about an inch but even if it turns out to be too low it's a simple matter to take it apart and add height.

In the mean time, here is some related entertainment. Lower fender dog leg supports
67-76 MOPAR A BODY FRONT FENDER LOWER DOG LEG SUPPORT BARS OEM PAIR W/ BOLTS | eBay. They come with bolts so they cost more.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Man, this junkyard trip's gonna turn into a gold mine!

 

[b-body-bob]

Man, this junkyard trip's gonna turn into a gold mine!

I tried to check if those had been relisted and for how long, and found these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203271089736

At least one seller hasn't lost their freakin' mind.

I noticed the seller on the $90 set I first noticed actually has two sets listed. Does E-bay charge a listing fee even if your item doesn't sell? Double down.