b-body-bob
Well-known member
As far as I can tell, the dip is there to bolt the 67-68 "beak" to. I think I posted earlier that I'd found a photo that shows clearly that it bolts there.. Anyway, I did.
My 71 Duster work in progress
- Thread starter b-body-bob
- Start date
b-body-bob
Well-known member
The hole in the floor is now patched, pending sealer and paint.
I mocked the grille up with the old headlight buckets and it all fits like it was made for it. I need to drill four holes to bolt the bottom down to the lower valence and shine it up some more before making it permanent.
I mocked the grille up with the old headlight buckets and it all fits like it was made for it. I need to drill four holes to bolt the bottom down to the lower valence and shine it up some more before making it permanent.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Sealed it and applied elbow grease to grille. Was unable to get the bend out of the grille, but I didn't try really hard either. Clamping it to a straight edge didn't help, of course it needs to be "overbent" so it doesn't just spring back to where it came from.
I'm going to have to rotate the dimmer switch a little bit because one dummy absent mindedly ground the self-tapping hole in the floor until it was just a hole that's too big for the screw now, and the same dummy forgot to weld and re-drill it before globbing sealant all around it. Oh well.
BTW is there a trick to getting the hood pop-up spring off one grille support and onto the other one? I just scanned through the body manual and it doesn't even include the spring in illustrations.
I'm going to have to rotate the dimmer switch a little bit because one dummy absent mindedly ground the self-tapping hole in the floor until it was just a hole that's too big for the screw now, and the same dummy forgot to weld and re-drill it before globbing sealant all around it. Oh well.
BTW is there a trick to getting the hood pop-up spring off one grille support and onto the other one? I just scanned through the body manual and it doesn't even include the spring in illustrations.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I'm pretty sure you need to bend the LH (as you're looking at it) retainer tab/tang up, then just twist the hood spring out. Of course, it would probably be easier from underneath, using a skinny screwdriver or other pokey bit, now that you've got it in the car 'n' all.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I thought it looked like it would just twist out but it didn't cooperate on first try. The one I need to remove isn't on the car, but it needs to go back on it. I figured it will be a hassle because everything else has been.
I drilled four holes in the lower valence to mount the grille, and also stuck the clips for the plastic grille in the valence because hey, it can't hurt. I still need to pick up some more of the fancy screws I got at Lowe's for the lower mount, #10 with a fancy cap under the screw head giving it more contact area, and use them to mount the upper corners to the fender.
FWIW, those two in-between support brackets are easy to pop out of the grille, but if it happens, put the bracket in the right place (per indentations) and just squeeze that and the grille section together to pop it back in.
I drilled four holes in the lower valence to mount the grille, and also stuck the clips for the plastic grille in the valence because hey, it can't hurt. I still need to pick up some more of the fancy screws I got at Lowe's for the lower mount, #10 with a fancy cap under the screw head giving it more contact area, and use them to mount the upper corners to the fender.
FWIW, those two in-between support brackets are easy to pop out of the grille, but if it happens, put the bracket in the right place (per indentations) and just squeeze that and the grille section together to pop it back in.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
The spring solution is right there in front of you; I expect you're over-thinking it. It's a brute-force thing.
Your original hood latch support:
Your replacement hood latch support:
The guy that sold you the Valiant latch support bent the LH tang up to release the spring on that side. The spring should just pivot out of the RH side once the other side is free (look at how it's retained). If you come up through the hole left by stamping that RH tab from the bottom side with a small screwdriver, you should be able to bend the tab out of the way (relatively) easily. Use a screwdriver you don't much like (perhaps one that cheats at poker or hits on your wife) and tap it with a hammer if necessary. I said "tap", not "pretend you're driving a 20d nail into red oak". Once you've got enough clearence, tilt the spring toward the driver's side of the latch support and it should lift right out of the other tang. Once you've got it properly set in the Valiant latch support, bend that tab back home with a hammer and small punch.
It's neither coming out nor going back in without bending metal. Take your time so you only do it once. Repeated bending will break that tab; rewelding that would be several miles south of Fun at the end of a long dirt road on the right.
Your original hood latch support:
Your replacement hood latch support:
The guy that sold you the Valiant latch support bent the LH tang up to release the spring on that side. The spring should just pivot out of the RH side once the other side is free (look at how it's retained). If you come up through the hole left by stamping that RH tab from the bottom side with a small screwdriver, you should be able to bend the tab out of the way (relatively) easily. Use a screwdriver you don't much like (perhaps one that cheats at poker or hits on your wife) and tap it with a hammer if necessary. I said "tap", not "pretend you're driving a 20d nail into red oak". Once you've got enough clearence, tilt the spring toward the driver's side of the latch support and it should lift right out of the other tang. Once you've got it properly set in the Valiant latch support, bend that tab back home with a hammer and small punch.
It's neither coming out nor going back in without bending metal. Take your time so you only do it once. Repeated bending will break that tab; rewelding that would be several miles south of Fun at the end of a long dirt road on the right.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Yeah I thought of looking at the replacement to see how they did it, then forgot.
I found that a #10 drill screw isn't the same thing as a #10 screw, so had to enlarge those holes on the lower valence and add J-bolts. I need to come up with some fairly deep J-bolts for the top of the grille if I can, since that seems to be right next to losing it's grip and stripping out. Or, I need larger diameter screws. I'm trying to use the ones that came with plastic grille hardware kit.
I am considering how best to attach the grille to the fenders, bolt-wise, and am currently stuck on just using a large-ish diameter drill screw for that since it's not going to be pretty no matter what.
Will be hitting the HW aisle tonight for those nuts, bolts, and some paint to spray the fix on the wheelwell/floorboard, then it's tighten it up and add the bumper.
BTW, what is the deal with those lower fender support rods that run from in front of the wheel over to the bumper bracket? I've searched e-bay and had never found any until today, and now the ones I find are $90 and $100 used. Seems like a weird thing to be a hard-to-find high priced part, but what do I know.
I found that a #10 drill screw isn't the same thing as a #10 screw, so had to enlarge those holes on the lower valence and add J-bolts. I need to come up with some fairly deep J-bolts for the top of the grille if I can, since that seems to be right next to losing it's grip and stripping out. Or, I need larger diameter screws. I'm trying to use the ones that came with plastic grille hardware kit.
I am considering how best to attach the grille to the fenders, bolt-wise, and am currently stuck on just using a large-ish diameter drill screw for that since it's not going to be pretty no matter what.
Will be hitting the HW aisle tonight for those nuts, bolts, and some paint to spray the fix on the wheelwell/floorboard, then it's tighten it up and add the bumper.
BTW, what is the deal with those lower fender support rods that run from in front of the wheel over to the bumper bracket? I've searched e-bay and had never found any until today, and now the ones I find are $90 and $100 used. Seems like a weird thing to be a hard-to-find high priced part, but what do I know.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Still need to buy some headlights.
FWIW the hood spring just twisted out of the original but I had to use the hammer/punch on the replacement because they bent it to get the spring out.
FWIW the hood spring just twisted out of the original but I had to use the hammer/punch on the replacement because they bent it to get the spring out.
71dusterman
Well-known member
I found a set of halogen housings for mine at a swap meet.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Hell if one of the headlights hadn't failed testing I would've used the ones that came with. That's how cheap I am. I won't be driving it after dark. Hell I can hardly see out there at night.
I also need to pick up one 1157 A for the parking/turn light in the right front but other than that all the bulbs seem to be working.
BTW, have you ever had to replace a bulb in a 69 grille? Unless I'm doing it wrong, whew, what a PITA. Gotta be double careful with those unobtainable lenses too.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I consider halogens the bare minimum. Some of my best times driving were at night. For the Challenger I have H4/H1 conversion glass, with 135W/85W outside bulbs and 100W high beams. Legal? Not quite, but I've literally got more forward lighting than a landing 747.
I'm pretty sure the right bulb for that application is a 1034A. Not that you probably care, but actual 1034A/1157A bulbs--the painted ones--are now collector's items. You'd be stunned at what they bring these days. I prefer the look of them in "era" clear-lens turn signals, so I stocked up awhile back. The 1157NA is cheap, plentiful, and 100% functional in place of the 1034A.
There's certainly more disassembly required than was really necessary, but I didn't have much problem with Agnes. Make sure you put some dielectric grease in the socket and orient the bulb the right way, and future issues shouldn't arise.
Unobtainable lenses? Hell, I've got at least five of 'em...
b-body-bob
Well-known member
1969 VALIANT GRILLE W/ PARKING LAMP LIGHTS HOOD LATCH AND LOWER PANEL MOPAR 821 | eBay
Mine's in better shape and I didn't need the valence or the latch and support.
No emblem on that one either.
I didn't even notice the price on those because I was dumbfounded by the price of headlights and the sneaky shit Advance auto does. They have one each of the affordable bulbs, but more than one of the higher priced ones. I ended up paying $8 more each than I wanted to, so I got 2 for the price of 3. Also too, the only prices they had on the shelves was the lower price. Done with them I think.
I'll keep that in mind.
FWIW it's a miracle my clumsy ass hasn't broken them or the grille before now.
Mine's in better shape and I didn't need the valence or the latch and support.
No emblem on that one either.
I didn't even notice the price on those because I was dumbfounded by the price of headlights and the sneaky shit Advance auto does. They have one each of the affordable bulbs, but more than one of the higher priced ones. I ended up paying $8 more each than I wanted to, so I got 2 for the price of 3. Also too, the only prices they had on the shelves was the lower price. Done with them I think.
I'll keep that in mind.
FWIW it's a miracle my clumsy ass hasn't broken them or the grille before now.
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b-body-bob
Well-known member
I just remembered, the parts guy asked me if I wanted bulb grease. I laughed at him, sounds like muffler bearings to me.
Serious. These turn signal bulbs will never be removed again.
Serious. These turn signal bulbs will never be removed again.
74DartSport
has asparagus pee
That’s pretty much the setup I used many moons ago in a Foxbody I used to run. One night out in the back roads a car came at me with high beams on so I kicked mine up. The state trooper wasn’t amused.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
if you guys want some equaly good bright tail lights ive found a replacement that was specificaly designed for the couger/mustang/tbird crowd,..they are NOT cheep but they are RED RED and visable as far as your headlights, but the real kicker is that they light up the ENTIRE tail light like the OE did..only.....BRIGHT
mind you there is alot of hype with some of the new "plasma" bulbs ...ill see if i can dig up a link to the ones i found
mind you there is alot of hype with some of the new "plasma" bulbs ...ill see if i can dig up a link to the ones i found
b-body-bob
Well-known member
With lights. Too bad it's not painted, but It's Good Enough. Still need to glue lenses into the front sidemarkers. I bought new lenses but they were pricey so I'm trying to hold off on installing those until after it's been painted.
I'm getting to the point of not knowing what to work on next. I guess it's time to get it titled, insured, and licensed.
This weekend I hope to throw a coat of rustoleum on the inside floor board and figure out if I can work the shifter cable in without hacking a hole in the new carpet I've got waiting.
I'm getting to the point of not knowing what to work on next. I guess it's time to get it titled, insured, and licensed.
This weekend I hope to throw a coat of rustoleum on the inside floor board and figure out if I can work the shifter cable in without hacking a hole in the new carpet I've got waiting.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Yeah, eventually but that's a can-o-worms I'm not willing to open. That turns into oh yeah the body needs painted, and man that engine compartment's ugly, and the next thing you know I've got a rolling body, a pile of parts, no body/paint skills and nowhere to do it if I did..
I've got one car torn apart for 10 years now because it needed some sheetmetal work and paint. I don't need a second one. I know myself. Paint and body work is someone else's job, that I'll have to pay for.