84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

OK last night I messed up my Hydro boost unit....here's my post from last night.

thrashingcows said:
Well tonight I decided I would try and pop out the super long push rod on my hydroboost unit...since it came from a 2000 cummins truck. Well after some redneck engineering, and totally ignoring Mknittles neat little push rod pulling tool, I ended up wrecking my unit!....

Guess you really do need to make sure your puller rests against the small crimped collar.

Should have read the post #29 in this thread...it was posted up, but I never did click the link.

1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Quote:
(NOTE: you can't press off of the hydroboost housing itself, you have to press against the little collar that is crimped around the ball end)
Guess I'm heading to the wreckers to grab one from a 90's astro van. I had everything to do the swap finally....and the push rod was the last thing I needed to get out of the way. Hope the 2nd Gen lines I have will work on the GM unit.
Click to expand...

So here the photographic evidence of "bad" redneck engineering. [redface]



And the carnage it cause inside the HB unit....



The pushrod was attached to the collar, which was attached to the pushrod off the piston, and that big spring was on the piston pushrod as well. No fixing that!
 
So this morning I headed out to the local pick-a-part and managed to find a unit from a 95 Astro Van. The 95 and earlier GM/Chev vans have the correct bracket to directly bolt to the 1st Gen firewall. ;)



 
And I decided to make the proper push rod puller. Spent a couple hours putting this together. Thanks Mark (MKnittle) for the pics on building this baby!







And thought I'd pull the 2nd Gen pushrod properly from the broken piece, as a trial run on the new puller. Due to the super long push rod I had to toss on a couple pieces of 1" box tube as extensions.....puller worked like a charm!

 
OK now to the installtion on my truck.....

First off I wanted to use as much of the 2000 Cummins system I could, lines included. But did not want the big firewall bracket. The Astro Van unit provided the perfect swap since it's firewall bracket is a direct swap onto the 1st Gen firewall....no mods required (if you use all GM stuff)....almost. ;)

Since I wanted to use the Dodge assembly I had to alter the alignment if the HB unit, since Dodge uses a master cylinder adapter bracket the turns the HB about 45* clockwise.

Dodge vs Astro Van.....you can see the alignment tab location differs.



And my solution to the alignment.

I measured everything out and located where the new tab would be located on the Astro van bracket. I was going to weld up the area then hand file it to fit, but once I started removing some material for the weld to bite into I noticed that perhaps there was another way.

I put the bracket on the tailshaft and noticed that perhaps I could use something as a keyway? Started wandering around the shop and came across some roller bearings from either my NV4500 or NP205 rebuild. Tried one and it fit perfect, just had to cut it to length!




I measured everything out and located where the new tab would be located on the Astro van bracket. I was going to weld up the area then hand file it to fit, but once I started removing some material for the weld to bite into I noticed that
 
Then it was rebuild and reseal time. I won't go into what I did to redo my HB unit...since I followed this thread to the letter.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?72688-Hydroboost-reseal-tutorial-(long)

Follow this one and you can't go wrong.

All done...



I purchased a re-seal kit from E-bay seller "Pirate jack" part # 2771004X or 2771004. You'll have a few O-rings left over from the rebuild.



And installing the firewall bracket.



And how do you tighten up that 4 sided nut....I used brass punches and a hammer to get it loose, but this wouldn't work to tighten. Finally came across my grandfathers old chain wrench...worked like a champ!



Highly recommend this for removal, and installation of that nut. ;)
 
Then all that was left was to make up an adjustable pedal to HB pushrod. I took the ball end off the dodge HB, and cut off the push rod from an old vacuum booster. Then cut each to about 2.35 inches in length, and then threaded each 1/2 x 13 NC. Got a coupler and a jam but and was done.



I also filed two flat sides on the dodge ball end so I could use a crescent wrench to hold it while working on things.





Then used a big rubber hammer to band the pushrod back in. Used a flat chisel and a block of wood to re-stake the push rod.



You can also see the foam/neoprene gasket I made. Just used an old gasket and traced it out on a sheet of the material then cut it out. It is sticky once side so just peal and stick in place!

 
This is what I started with this morning....



Didn't take long to end up with the HB unit mounted to the firewall.



Here is pretty much everything else in the system. New PS Pump for a 2000 Cummins. Good used high pressure lines and new 3/8 PS hose and clamps, brackets etc.



Now the fun began....

I lie to just pull the vacuum/PS assembly out to work on it, or if I'm doing an injection pump re/re. Only takes about 10 min to pop it out, and you will never accidentally break off your oil pressure sending unit either. ;)



 
Little bit of work to put the new PS pump on. You have to swap the 4 mounting studs on the front, I just used two of the 15mm bolts tightened/locked together to spin them out and move them over.




Then swap the 2 - 18mm bolts in the back of the case over to the new unit.




Now just remount the PS pump onto the Vacuum pump...don't forget the two spacers...and re-install on the motor.

 
Put the MC in place...



And discovered that the bracket for the metering block fit perfectly...not modifications required (unlike the GM unit). Only had to drill one new hole to clear the adapter plate mounting bolt.





Got to this point and then was informed by my family that my presence was required to go watch a movie at the theater.....;) :)
 
About 4 hours later I was back at it...

I had to put in new brake lines from the MC to the metering block, since the MC runs metric fittings, and the old lines would not fit regardless. I am no tube bender....I hacked those things into place...ugly as sin, but they function fine.



Then install the OEM lines...



 
Then install the High pressure lines, and return lines.





The steering box was the toughest. due to the OEM bends in the line it was a tough fit to clear the return line. But after removing the inner splash shield I was able to get it all lined up.



Then it was follow the priming/starting instructions from the rebuild thread posted earlier.

Took the crewcab for a short drive...since it was getting late....and the brakes feel so much better!
 
Driving around in the crew today and I'm loving the braking! And I think my PS is working better then ever, wheel and tires turn effortlessly now and is smooth as silk, and I swear my idle is up a bit. I think the old PS pump was slowly dying and putting drag on the motor.
 
Did a few things on the crewcab today.

I swapped out the vacuum/PS pump assembly...again. I tossed in the old leaking set-up from my donor 93 when the 2nd Gen PS pump cooked after 4 days powering the hydroboost set-up.
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This PS pump did not work all that well when it was just power the steering box...turned out that the internal filter was virtually plugged solid!

I took the big nut off the back of the PS pump...where the high pressure line threads into...and pulled out the spring and check valve/screen assembly. Cleaned it really well and re-installed.

Here's what it looks like apart...



You need to clamp the outer housing in something...without damaging the outer bore since it is a piston. Then spin out the center filter....make sure you measure the overall size and re-install at the same measurement. I believe you can alter the hyd pressure by either turning it in/out? Also don't forget to red lock tight the screen in place.
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Needed to do this for a while now...wife has a hard time getting up into Ol' Patches.....
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I had rummaged through the archives of many site before i found a thread over on the DTR that made mention of a set-up I thought would work.

The grab handle is from a 2nd Gen ram...exact location and trim line I do not know. I hit a few wreckers locally but could not find it. I jumped on E-bay and found one within a few minutes.

Here is a pic of the unit....from the thread on DTR. (forgot to grab one of mine)



First remove your trim and pillar cover. I used a spare unit...in OK shape..been dyed a few times and was warped a bit. I Did not want to cut up the nice grey unit (Hoarding for later).
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Then on the flat portion of the metal pillar decide where you want it located.



Inner holes are 1/4" and the outer holes are for the screws. Next take a bunch of measurements and transfer those to your plastic cover. now grab some files and start working on them.

Should look something like this....



 
Then install the the plastic spacers to make sure they clear the trim.





Install the handle and screw it in place.



Then slide the covers over the end and clip them in place.

Before painting trim....



And after...



Will pull the handle later and paint it to match.

Looks like it belongs and should help those of less stature get up and into Ol' Patches.
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I also swapped out the dino gear oil in the rear diff for synthetic. The stuff I drained out was all frothy/foamy...never seen that before? This is the fluid the guy who did my diff work put in....so not sure why it was like this?
 
Installed the 4" Beckson (# DP40-B) Smooth Screw-Out Marine Deck Plate in my HVAC box today....as per the thread in the Sticky on the DTR....:D

 
Well the oil I drained from my rear diff is still foamy today...even after sitting in the heated garage all night, and today. Here's what it looks like.....any idea why it would stay all foamy like that?

 
Over the last 3 days I have been working on getting my step bars installed on the crewcab. I bought these a couple years ago...they were damaged and I got them super cheap...I think $175 shipped to my door....regularly around here close to $600! They are made by "Go Rhino" and were for a 3rd Gen Dodge crewcab I believe.




But the way the doors and body is built I had to use them on the opposite sides...Pass for Drivers, and visa versa.
 
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