84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

69.5CUDA said:
id say it looks good but you need to take some scotch brite to that tail panel so its not glaringly disscolored as another emblem crossedout by a cummins lol
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I hate to say it but I noticed that right away and its pretty much exactly what I thought. Good idea though. I like the emblem.
 
On a side note. I need to do some cab repair on my '74. Do you know of a good source for body parts? I need the mount structure for the back of the cab floor. The part where the rubber mount sits.
 
Stretch said:
On a side note. I need to do some cab repair on my '74. Do you know of a good source for body parts? I need the mount structure for the back of the cab floor. The part where the rubber mount sits.
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I don't think there is anyone who makes the additional body mount braces on the underside of the body. You can get cab corners, and rockers. The rest would have to either come from a donor, or hand made I think?

You can check out the LMC catalog for 74-93 rams...maybe they have something?

https://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/dc/t.aspx
 
if ANYONE has em it would be LMC

i "might" have those chunks from a cut cab in the scrap pile but i wont be in that pile for many months
 
Stretch said:
On a side note. I need to do some cab repair on my '74. Do you know of a good source for body parts? I need the mount structure for the back of the cab floor. The part where the rubber mount sits.
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Perhaps if you'd ever go yarding with me, you could find something worth cutting out. :D
Remember, I have the generator now so we should make plans to go. Bring your sawzall and I can cut some needed chunks out of a Dakota on the same trip. That '72 I took the engine out of is in remarkably good shape for its age, not that I looked too closely at what you need, but things stayed pretty close to the same through the '80s. Lots of those trucks at Paul's.
 
Did some AC diagnosis today. Wanted to see if the AC would blow cooler with no Power Stroke Intercooler in front of the condenser. So I pulled the front of the truck apart, then stuffed an old fan in front to help blow air across the condenser.





It was 37*C (approx 105*F) and with no IC in the front I was seeing about 57*F from the vents. After reassembly I ran the truck again and the temps jumped up to about 65*F.

So clearly the Intercooler is causing the efficiency of the system to drop.

Only problem I ran into was one of my intercooler boot clamps snapped.



Thankfully I had a spare big one from ??? That worked as a replacement.
 
well now you know you need to find a way to get that AC unit out front...or drive around with a box fan attached to the truck..LOL

i feel your pain cow....its been hot as fuck here too
 
There really is no way to mount the condenser in front of that big power stroke intercooler...unless I was willing to cut up my rad support, and grille...and that is not going to happen. ;) So I think I will be mounting the condenser back under the truck bed, with a coupe electric fans. That should take care of condenser issues. ;)
 
ive seen ALOT of med duty trucks with "saddle" mount condensors and fans...they work GREAT mounted at a 45 deg angle

wouldnt it be possible to mod the core support to tuck the IC back against the rad and then stuff the con unit in front behind the grill without modding it?
 
69.5CUDA said:
ive seen ALOT of med duty trucks with "saddle" mount condensors and fans...they work GREAT mounted at a 45 deg angle

wouldnt it be possible to mod the core support to tuck the IC back against the rad and then stuff the con unit in front behind the grill without modding it?
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Are the fans on top blowing down through, or mounted under neath blowing up. I had not thought of mounting it on a 45* angle. Was going to mount it flat with fans on the underside blowing up through.

I already have the inter-cooler as far forward as I can with out having to start cutting a lot more into the rad support. I had to massage the openings to get the tubes through the rad support, and also remove the center support and trim the remaining upper portion as well. Then had to cut and shorten the hood latch. So no there would not be enough room unless like I mentioned...I was will to get in there and hack things up some more.
 
My left turn signal bulb in the dash popped on, and stayed on, while I was out getting groceries. It does this if a running light is out. Checked the truck and my lower front fender side amber light was out.

Got home and popped in a new bulb...nothing. Hmmm try another bulb...nothing. Go get test light...have power to plug so should come on. Checking out the tangs in the plug and they looked a little compressed. So grab a pick and bend them out, insert 3rd bulb and still nothing.

OK now I'm getting cheesed. So go grab a couple alligator clip jump wires. Test all three bulbs...only one was working. OK put working bulb in again, still nothing. Decided to test connectors while bulb is in socket. Had test light on the ground, and had power on one side. Then switched test light to positive, no ground coming into bulb.

OK so I probe the wire on the outside of the connector....still no ground. Now I figure it must be a bad splice or broken wire. So I start pulling the wrap off the wiring. Noticed that the front turn signal/marker bulb also used the same wires, so figured they must join somewhere and that would be where my problem was. I Got it all off all the way back to the inner fender and the big bundle of wrapped wires there...Still no splice.



I then went and got my FSM and started looking at the wiring diagrams. Appeared that there was no splice in the engine compartment. I went back out and was looking at things and then noticed that the front amber bulb was burnt out as well. I thought what would be the odds that if the front signal bulb was out, that the side bulb would not work either...well after a new front bulb the side one started working....[dummy]

So there ya go folks I learned something new today, it only took me an hour or so to figure it out. Lesson learned is....if you have front side marker light out, and a new bulb doesn't fix the problem...check to make sure your front marker/signal light bulb is in good shape and working properly.
 
HAHAHAHHA i had added the 3rd turn/marker on my RC and learned that....also...the 3rd will blink on as the other 2 go out...dont ask me why..i just know thats how it does it

fan tward the back pulling
 
69.5CUDA said:
HAHAHAHHA i had added the 3rd turn/marker on my RC and learned that....also...the 3rd will blink on as the other 2 go out...dont ask me why..i just know thats how it does it

fan toward the back pulling
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Hmmm...not sure if I like the condenser at a 45* like that. I do understand the reasoning behind it though.
 
Before you get too worried about mounting the condensor in a non-factory manner, you might want to diagnose the AC system first. An outlet temperature near 60° is way too high, even in 105° heat. You should be in the middle-upper 40s max, even at that ambient. Are your high- and low-side pressures within service-manual spec?
 
Dr.Jass said:
Before you get too worried about mounting the condensor in a non-factory manner, you might want to diagnose the AC system first. An outlet temperature near 60° is way too high, even in 105° heat. You should be in the middle-upper 40s max, even at that ambient. Are your high- and low-side pressures within service-manual spec?
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I'm running Duracool in the truck, as well as the wagon and the wife's Concorde. The wagon and the concorde blow like meat lockers...so the duracool is not the issue. I don't have a proper set of gauges....nor do i know anyone with any. I only have the simple pressure gauge that comes in the duracool kit. You hook this gauge to the low side and it shows, when running, if the system is in the proper pressure range. Not very precise though.

I have been reading my FSM and it mentions that the expansion valve can stick and cause a situation similar to mine? I have tried tapping on the expansion valve to see if things would change...nope. It also appears that the system still has air, moisture in it? I have what looks like lots of tiny bubble soaring past the sight glass on the drier. I installed a new drier, and then had the system vacuumed down for about an hour before recharging. So I had assumed moisture would not be an issue?
 
It certainly doesn't sound like the condenser location is the issue. Before you assembled it, did you flush out any used components? I'm just wondering if some contamination didn't allow the vacuum to pull everything out of the system. You shouldn't be seeing bubbles in the sight glass, obviously.
 
Dr.Jass said:
It certainly doesn't sound like the condenser location is the issue. Before you assembled it, did you flush out any used components? I'm just wondering if some contamination didn't allow the vacuum to pull everything out of the system. You shouldn't be seeing bubbles in the sight glass, obviously.
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I did "try" and flush all the components. I did use proper AC cleaning fluid, and compressed air. But that is not to say that there couldn't have been something that came loose during the process and has caused an obstruction?

Now that you mention it there was one thing I did notice though when I had the inter-cooler off and the AC system running. It was that the condenser only seemed to get hot on the top half. The top was almost too hot to touch, but the lower I went on the condenser, the cooler the tubes and fins got.
 
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