84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Well, the inlet area is going to be warmer than the outlet area, but I wouldn't think the temp differential would be that great across the core.
 
Well last night I decided to install my "new to me" turbo. It's a H1C with a 14cm exhaust housing. A generous local 1st gen owner gave it to me...Thanks Daniel!

Took about 20 minutes to pull the old turbo...then about 90 min to get the new one in and running.

Old vs new





Once the turbo was in and mounted I ran into my first problem. The 1993 turbo drain would not clear the waste gate actuator. Thankfully I had a 24V unit to use. It cleared the turbo fine, but would not quite make it to the drain tube connection off the block.

24V drain tube...



Solution for it being just a bit short, and helped with proper alignment as well.





Then I had to remove my exhaust system to get everything lined up and mounted properly. That took a while. Got it running last night and went for a drive. Not as much boost as I thought it might make, but I have not touched the IP except for rotating the stock fuel pin....more fuel might help there. ;) But it definitely spools up quicker on my shifts. Truck doesn't bog and struggle as much either.

Here is a pic of it this morning all installed....



Over all I'm pretty happy with it so far.
 
Gotta love a good upgrade! You can always tinker with the wastegate, assuming you've got the fuel to feed it.

I don't want to be critical, but please, please tell me that piece of hose is properly rated for turbo oil drain usage. Thinking "it's just a drain" and using fuel, PCV, or God forbid heater hose will cost you an engine--I assure you, there's still pressure there. You'd be shocked how effectively that return will drain your crankcase if it fails. A big-truck engine can do it in a few minutes. That's four or more times the oil capacity of your 5.9 going through a similarly-sized drain. :doh: The sneaky part is that your oil pressure won't change until the pickup runs dry. At that point, you're already toast. The stuff we use costs about $1.00 an inch. It's rated for both high temperature and oil. We used to get it from PDI but we now buy Parker hose in bulk. You aren't going to find it in stock at a parts store; try a place that makes hydraulic hoses. It must be rated for both engine oil and a minimum of 150°C (~300°F). Do not use silicone hose, which seems like the easy solution. It doesn't last in that application. Though it's rated for high temperatures, I don't think it's fond of oil that just came out of a 600°+, non-liquid-cooled CHRA.

I tell you this because I love you... and you'll hate yourself if you lose an engine over an inexpensive piece of hose. Get a long enough piece that you can double-clamp both ends of it with the clamps clocked at least 90° apart. If you mention this on a diesel board and get pooh-poohed, just ask the nay-sayers if they'll buy you a new engine in the event of a failure.
 
went thru 3 chunks of "cheep" hose on the turbo minivan after the stock unit finnaly let go...docs right on this..only the good stuff will last
 
Dr.Jass said:
Gotta love a good upgrade! You can always tinker with the wastegate, assuming you've got the fuel to feed it.

I don't want to be critical, but please, please tell me that piece of hose is properly rated for turbo oil drain usage. Thinking "it's just a drain" and using fuel, PCV, or God forbid heater hose will cost you an engine--I assure you, there's still pressure there. You'd be shocked how effectively that return will drain your crankcase if it fails. A big-truck engine can do it in a few minutes. That's four or more times the oil capacity of your 5.9 going through a similarly-sized drain. :doh: The sneaky part is that your oil pressure won't change until the pickup runs dry. At that point, you're already toast. The stuff we use costs about $1.00 an inch. It's rated for both high temperature and oil. We used to get it from PDI but we now buy Parker hose in bulk. You aren't going to find it in stock at a parts store; try a place that makes hydraulic hoses. It must be rated for both engine oil and a minimum of 150°C (~300°F). Do not use silicone hose, which seems like the easy solution. It doesn't last in that application. Though it's rated for high temperatures, I don't think it's fond of oil that just came out of a 600°+, non-liquid-cooled CHRA.

I tell you this because I love you... and you'll hate yourself if you lose an engine over an inexpensive piece of hose. Get a long enough piece that you can double-clamp both ends of it with the clamps clocked at least 90° apart. If you mention this on a diesel board and get pooh-poohed, just ask the nay-sayers if they'll buy you a new engine in the event of a failure.
Click to expand...

Funny you mention this Doc...I was thinking about the longevity of the piece I used as well. But now you've actually scared me!

I was actually thinking I would go grab the OEM lower coupler that they use to join the drain tube to the crank case tube....I have one on the spare 89 motor.

If not I will write down your specs, and get a proper piece from a Hyd supply house.
 
Swapped on the 89 coupler this evening. I feel much better having that one on there since it's clearly rated for oil and high temps. I drove to and from work today looking out the review mirror for oil spraying out from behind the truck. :shifty:
 
If you've got a piece of hose intended for that use in place, I wouldn't worry about it... but it's a common failure part to which people don't give enough importance. A good example is how fast a running engine will drain itself through a tiny, 1/8" outer-diameter oil-pressure gauge line. That's smaller than your turbo feed line, which is usually 3/16" or 1/4" inside diameter. There's a reason that drain tube is so large in size: It needs to be!

I feel much better that you changed it!
 
Dr.Jass said:
If you've got a piece of hose intended for that use in place, I wouldn't worry about it... but it's a common failure part to which people don't give enough importance. A good example is how fast a running engine will drain itself through a tiny, 1/8" outer-diameter oil-pressure gauge line. That's smaller than your turbo feed line, which is usually 3/16" or 1/4" inside diameter. There's a reason that drain tube is so large in size: It needs to be!

I feel much better that you changed it!
Click to expand...

That was great info Doc...I really appreciate that you smacked me up side the head...we all need it form time to time. ;)

It wouldn't hurt to have a chunk of new hose floating around...in case one of the couplers decides to give up it's vigil after 20+ years. Think I will look for some to toss in the spare parts hoard.
 
I'll be fine. I no longer have a house payment (which is a huge relief) and since I live alone I can control my utilities pretty. I don't have much of a food budget to battle either. I don't eat a huge amount, I rarely eat anything I didn't cook, and the dog only costs about $30/month to feed.

This time around won't result in the wholesale slaughter of my collection of cars and parts, which is a beautiful thing. :dance: I do have a bunch of spare crap for which I've got no plans that I plan to sell, though. I actually need the room more than the money at this point. :doh:
 
I came out to my truck this morning to head to work...started the truck and pulled the headlight switch...no headlights! Tried in and out on the HL switch a coupe times, still nothing. Popped the hood and tapped on the headlight relays....still nothing. I then Clicked the high beams and thankfully they came on....guess I'm high beaming everyone on the way to work.:doh:

So after work in the lot I pop the hood and try swapping the relays around...still no low beams. So it was still light out so drove home. Once home I grabbed a couple spare relays and swapped them in....still no low beams. I pull the fuse panel since I couldn't recall if there was a headlight fuse or not...everything looked fine.

I then decide to grab a couple of my spare headlights...I have about 7 used units from parts vehicles over the years. Anyway plug them in and turn on the headlight switch...everything works properly, low and high beams!

So I had both my headlight low beams burn out at the same time. Came home from work Thursday evening with low beams working properly. Did not use the truck yesterday, and fired it up this morning with both low beam headlights out...what are the odds of that happening!
 
I spent the day selling at a local old car swap meet...one of the last of the year for this area. Also brought my 48 Desoto down to sell as well.

Loaded up and ready to go yesterday evening. My friend, and neighbor went down too with some GM stuff...(That's his 63 Impala) We were down at the swap meet for 6am this morning.





Set-up and selling.



This was the first swap meet I've ever sold at and I sold a lot of stuff! Not many "Mopar only" guys at most swap meets.;)
 
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