84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches
- Thread starter thrashingcows
- Start date
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
in that case...a stock truck overflow from the 70's that hangs over the rad would ahve been it
Don't think it would fit...The cummins trucks use a different rad support then the gassers, but it might have. I'm sure you have one kicking around, when I come down to grab Fernando we can check it out and see if it would have worked.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well thought I'd update things....
I pulled the Injection pump after I couldn't get it to fire, and I had spotted metal pieces in the pump when I had the top off to inspect other things...not good!!
So I pulled apart the pump the other day to inspect things. Here's what I found.
That is supposed to be a hardened steel washer. When I had the pump apart to reseal things, I guess the washer dropped out of place and got jammed up where it shouldn't have been. The is a lot of spring pressure and torque through this area while generating the PSI required for the diesel injection. So one thing led to another and the washer shattered, it also cracked the head on the injection piston.
This is what it's supposed to look like, the washer that is. And you can see where it supposed to sit inside the piston head.
So I'm going to talk to the local diesel injection shop here tomorrow and find out what they figure it will cost to replace the broken pieces and then rebuild the pump. Turning into an expensive mistake...oh well lessons learned, not cheaply, but learned none the less.
I pulled the Injection pump after I couldn't get it to fire, and I had spotted metal pieces in the pump when I had the top off to inspect other things...not good!!
So I pulled apart the pump the other day to inspect things. Here's what I found.
That is supposed to be a hardened steel washer. When I had the pump apart to reseal things, I guess the washer dropped out of place and got jammed up where it shouldn't have been. The is a lot of spring pressure and torque through this area while generating the PSI required for the diesel injection. So one thing led to another and the washer shattered, it also cracked the head on the injection piston.
This is what it's supposed to look like, the washer that is. And you can see where it supposed to sit inside the piston head.
So I'm going to talk to the local diesel injection shop here tomorrow and find out what they figure it will cost to replace the broken pieces and then rebuild the pump. Turning into an expensive mistake...oh well lessons learned, not cheaply, but learned none the less.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
The fuel line pressure for the VE pump is max about 15-20 psi. But the injection pulse when it leaves the pump and enters the injector head on the back of the pump is, I believe, 6000PSI, but quickly drops from there as it moves through the lines to the injectors themselves.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Turns out the pump is toast, well parts are toast and not repairable or easily replaced.
The above pic of the washer and piston head with keyway, well that piston head in mine cracked when the washer shattered. I was cleaning and rebuilding everything when I noticed the hairline cracks.
The local shop quoted me $1400 for a reman unit, or about $1600-$1800 to rebuild and fix mine. So I did some searching in craigslist and found a guy with one down in Tacoma WA. He wanted $150 for a nice unit he pulled form another 89 motor, and mine is an 89 as well!! So Monday night after the wife got home I drove the 3 hours one way to pick it up, and then another 3 hours home. Well worth the travel. I'm currently working on resealing this one and hope to have it in the hole by this weekend, and if karma is with me running not long after.
The above pic of the washer and piston head with keyway, well that piston head in mine cracked when the washer shattered. I was cleaning and rebuilding everything when I noticed the hairline cracks.
The local shop quoted me $1400 for a reman unit, or about $1600-$1800 to rebuild and fix mine. So I did some searching in craigslist and found a guy with one down in Tacoma WA. He wanted $150 for a nice unit he pulled form another 89 motor, and mine is an 89 as well!! So Monday night after the wife got home I drove the 3 hours one way to pick it up, and then another 3 hours home. Well worth the travel. I'm currently working on resealing this one and hope to have it in the hole by this weekend, and if karma is with me running not long after.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
I worked a bit over the weekend on getting the frame built for my 2nd gen 40/20/40 seat.
With me being 6'8" and 275lbs I wanted the seat as low as possible and set back to give me lots of leg room. I have read almost every thread I could find here on the DTR related to this subject, and decided, especially after I got my seat, that I wasn't going to use the factory 2nd gen seat tracks and brackets.
So I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out what I wanted to do. Eventually I decide that I would do away with the dual tracks and make a solid bench seat style set-up. I also decided that I wanted to use that factory bench seat tracks.
I then took all the measurements from the 2nd gen seat, pulled the stock bench out, but took tons of measurement, and then spent some time with a pen and paper drawing up several different ideas on how to attack the situation.
I decide that I would build the frame out of 1" square tubing, 1/8th wall, but wasn't sure exactly how things would work out in real life, since ideas and drawing can't always predict everything. So I came to the decision that I would build the frame, initially, from wood since it's cheap and easy to work with. So out came the table saw, and some 2x2's I had around, and I ripped me a bunch of 1"x1" wood. I then started cutting and then used my finishing nailer to piece it all together.
So after a few hours I think I have a final design, I had to modify it several times from my original drawings and ideas, the tranny tunnel for the transfer case posed the biggest problem.
Here are some current pics of the project....
Now I just need to build it from steel. Will update when I get it built and the new seat installed.
With me being 6'8" and 275lbs I wanted the seat as low as possible and set back to give me lots of leg room. I have read almost every thread I could find here on the DTR related to this subject, and decided, especially after I got my seat, that I wasn't going to use the factory 2nd gen seat tracks and brackets.
So I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out what I wanted to do. Eventually I decide that I would do away with the dual tracks and make a solid bench seat style set-up. I also decided that I wanted to use that factory bench seat tracks.
I then took all the measurements from the 2nd gen seat, pulled the stock bench out, but took tons of measurement, and then spent some time with a pen and paper drawing up several different ideas on how to attack the situation.
I decide that I would build the frame out of 1" square tubing, 1/8th wall, but wasn't sure exactly how things would work out in real life, since ideas and drawing can't always predict everything. So I came to the decision that I would build the frame, initially, from wood since it's cheap and easy to work with. So out came the table saw, and some 2x2's I had around, and I ripped me a bunch of 1"x1" wood. I then started cutting and then used my finishing nailer to piece it all together.
So after a few hours I think I have a final design, I had to modify it several times from my original drawings and ideas, the tranny tunnel for the transfer case posed the biggest problem.
Here are some current pics of the project....
Now I just need to build it from steel. Will update when I get it built and the new seat installed.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
And I don't even have a 4x4 to use that space either.....:toot:
J.C. Corbett
or something.....
Good job on the mounts! I have a pal who did a similar Cummins conversion in an 80 crew cab. If you want, I can get you in touch with him. He's the conversion guru, and may be able to help you out a bit(parts too!).
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well ol' RAE is alive...again!!!!
After 2 months, and one bungled re-seal and a broken pump later, and then a replacement pump and re-seal, ...I got ol' RAE running this evening!!!
I resealed the replacement IP I got, installed it and hooked everything up and between 15-20 cranks, prime the injectors, then it quickly rattled to life!!
I'll have to figure out the timing since when I installed the pump the marks were way off. Comparing the original mark to the replacement pump they were darn close, probably within 1/16th. When I installed the new pump it was probably 1/4" or more below the original mark on the case. So I brought the pump up even with the mark on the case, to at least get it close.
I`m one happy camper tonight!!:giggedy:
After 2 months, and one bungled re-seal and a broken pump later, and then a replacement pump and re-seal, ...I got ol' RAE running this evening!!!
I resealed the replacement IP I got, installed it and hooked everything up and between 15-20 cranks, prime the injectors, then it quickly rattled to life!!
I'll have to figure out the timing since when I installed the pump the marks were way off. Comparing the original mark to the replacement pump they were darn close, probably within 1/16th. When I installed the new pump it was probably 1/4" or more below the original mark on the case. So I brought the pump up even with the mark on the case, to at least get it close.
I`m one happy camper tonight!!:giggedy:
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well since I got old RAE up and running I've started to hear a tin type rattle coming from the front of the motor. I got on my old stethoscope with metal tube on the end and started listening around the motor. It is most definitely coming from the timing case.
When I pulled the original IP to reseal it I decided to do my KDP as well, so I had the timing cover off. I didn't mess with anything else inside the case other then the KDP and obviously the loose IP gear. Now with the new IP I now have this major rattle. I popped off the oil filler tube to see if I could see if the snout on the IP was wobbling, it's nice and tight. But with the oil filler tube off it's a lot noisier and I can distinctly hear it at 20-30 feet.
When I had the IP apart for the reseal I checked the front bushing, no visible wear and the shaft was tight so I don't think this is my problem. I was thinking about it and I wonder if the key on the IP shaft is partially hung up and the gear is not sitting all the way back on the shaft like it should be? So then cause there to be an odd lash on the gear? Or what about timing? If I don't have enough would that cause the gears to rattle like that? I have read here on the DTR about running too much timing and the motor sounds like the old chevy 6.2/6.5 diesels, mine does not sound like that, it sounds great, other ten this new tin type sound.
I just can't get a break....
When I pulled the original IP to reseal it I decided to do my KDP as well, so I had the timing cover off. I didn't mess with anything else inside the case other then the KDP and obviously the loose IP gear. Now with the new IP I now have this major rattle. I popped off the oil filler tube to see if I could see if the snout on the IP was wobbling, it's nice and tight. But with the oil filler tube off it's a lot noisier and I can distinctly hear it at 20-30 feet.
When I had the IP apart for the reseal I checked the front bushing, no visible wear and the shaft was tight so I don't think this is my problem. I was thinking about it and I wonder if the key on the IP shaft is partially hung up and the gear is not sitting all the way back on the shaft like it should be? So then cause there to be an odd lash on the gear? Or what about timing? If I don't have enough would that cause the gears to rattle like that? I have read here on the DTR about running too much timing and the motor sounds like the old chevy 6.2/6.5 diesels, mine does not sound like that, it sounds great, other ten this new tin type sound.
I just can't get a break....
J.C. Corbett
or something.....
If you don't mind, I'd like to pass this along to the service manager at the KW dealership I used to work for. He does a lot of early Cummins pickup stuff, and might have an answer.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Sure JC...But I think I know what's going on. I have a feeling that the timing gear got hung up on the woodruff key on the IP shaft. The guys over on the DTR diesel site I frequent have suggested this, and I tend to agree. I just got back home from my out of town trip for work, and will tear off the timing cover tomorrow and see what's happening.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well I've had the front of the motor apart several times checking everything. The timing gear on the IP was not square on the shaft so I pulled the gear and relined up the shaft and gear again, properly this time. I thought this was my noise...nope still there!! So I tried running it with no belt, still got the noise. My next is to pull the vacuum pump/power steering set-up, someone suggested that the bearing might be going.
So next week I'll do this and see if I still have Mr. noise.
So next week I'll do this and see if I still have Mr. noise.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
OK I'm going to post all this in one thread so others can follow from start to finish in one place.
Here's a rehash of my other thread...Aug 17/10
Quote:
I worked a bit over the weekend on getting the frame built for my 2nd gen 40/20/40 seat.
With me being 6'8" and 275lbs I wanted the seat as low as possible and set back to give me lots of leg room. I have read almost every thread I could find here on the DTR related to this subject, and decided, especially after I got my seat, that I wasn't going to use the factory 2nd gen seat tracks and brackets.
So I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out what I wanted to do. Eventually I decide that I would do away with the dual tracks and make a solid bench seat style set-up. I also decided that I wanted to use that factory bench seat tracks.
I then took all the measurements from the 2nd gen seat, pulled the stock bench out, but took tons of measurement, and then spent some time with a pen and paper drawing up several different ideas on how to attack the situation.
I decide that I would build the frame out of 1" square tubing, 1/8th wall, but wasn't sure exactly how things would work out in real life, since ideas and drawing can't always predict everything. So I came to the decision that I would build the frame, initially, from wood since it's cheap and easy to work with. So out came the table saw, and some 2x2's I had around, and I ripped me a bunch of 1"x1" wood. I then started cutting and then used my finishing nailer to piece it all together.
So after a few hours I think I have a final design, I had to modify it several times from my original drawings and ideas, the tranny tunnel for the transfer case posed the biggest problem.
Here are some current pics of the project....
Now I just need to build it from steel. Will update when I get it built and the new seat installed.
Here's a rehash of my other thread...Aug 17/10
Quote:
I worked a bit over the weekend on getting the frame built for my 2nd gen 40/20/40 seat.
With me being 6'8" and 275lbs I wanted the seat as low as possible and set back to give me lots of leg room. I have read almost every thread I could find here on the DTR related to this subject, and decided, especially after I got my seat, that I wasn't going to use the factory 2nd gen seat tracks and brackets.
So I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out what I wanted to do. Eventually I decide that I would do away with the dual tracks and make a solid bench seat style set-up. I also decided that I wanted to use that factory bench seat tracks.
I then took all the measurements from the 2nd gen seat, pulled the stock bench out, but took tons of measurement, and then spent some time with a pen and paper drawing up several different ideas on how to attack the situation.
I decide that I would build the frame out of 1" square tubing, 1/8th wall, but wasn't sure exactly how things would work out in real life, since ideas and drawing can't always predict everything. So I came to the decision that I would build the frame, initially, from wood since it's cheap and easy to work with. So out came the table saw, and some 2x2's I had around, and I ripped me a bunch of 1"x1" wood. I then started cutting and then used my finishing nailer to piece it all together.
So after a few hours I think I have a final design, I had to modify it several times from my original drawings and ideas, the tranny tunnel for the transfer case posed the biggest problem.
Here are some current pics of the project....
Now I just need to build it from steel. Will update when I get it built and the new seat installed.