84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches
- Thread starter thrashingcows
- Start date
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
Very cool truck TC!!! I would love to have one of those! Goodluck with it, like Doc said dont for get the wagoon!
Doc, I've seen one with a bitsumishi diesel, I bought a car off the guy who owned it. It was a neat, but very primitive motor, and he said it was bitch to find parts. He told me most of the time the parts were adapted from Mitsu forklifts.
Doc, I've seen one with a bitsumishi diesel, I bought a car off the guy who owned it. It was a neat, but very primitive motor, and he said it was bitch to find parts. He told me most of the time the parts were adapted from Mitsu forklifts.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
It's a damned shame... I know where there's an '84 Ramcharger sitting with good front seats and armest/buddy-seat in the right color. The shipping would be exorbitant. :doh: The same truck was converted to a 400-4v, and junked after a carb fire.
I guess the reason I'd said I'd go monotone on the paint is simply because I'm not a big fan of white, particularly on trucks. Unless you wash it damned-near daily, it always seems to look dingy. Black's a pain in the ass, too, but at least it looks nefarious... I hate maintaining black vehicles, but I think I will ultimately paint the Imperial black. That body style positively screams for it.
71, it would seem to me the Ithcypussy diesel would be more trouble than it's worth. Non-turbo diesels don't have an accelerator pedal, they have a stink pedal. You push it down, and it makes more smoke and more stench, but you don't actually pick up speed at a noticeable rate. It always amazed me that during the diesel craze of the late '70s and early '80s, not a single American manufacturer noticed that virtually all over-the-road diesels at the time had some kind of forced induction to aid in efficiency and power production. A hairdried or supercharged Olds '99 or Escort wagon might have been a lot more fun to drive, and even better on fuel!
TC: once you've got intercooler stuff lined up, you really need to call my friends at Kurtz Diesel. I described your truck to Art today, and he got all kinds of excited: "We can tell him how to make some real power with that early Cummins once he's got it intercooled." And for the record, when you turn up the power in a diesel if you drive it like a grandma you'll get better mileage. My friend Tom occasionally cruises this board, and he leaves his Bully Dog tuner on "Extreme" for everything but towing, but drives like Mr. Magoo. He regularly gets over 25MPG from his '04 2500HD Quad Cab 4x4 on 31" tires with a sissymatic. He set the Bully Dog for tow/haul mode to protect his transmission on the way to the demo derby last August. Pulling a half-ton-plus trailer with a 4200lb Imperial, torches & tanks, a bunch of tools, probably 10 spare tires, the cooler, a bunch of radiators, etc. we averaged 18.1MPG on the way there... and that was horsing around, essentially racing--spanking a V10 Ram pulling a Chevette and a 454 Chevy 3500 SRW pulling a Crown Vic several times on the way. Neither of the gassers could get double-digit mileage, or catch us with a mild squeeze of the acclereator--Tom never floored it!
I guess the reason I'd said I'd go monotone on the paint is simply because I'm not a big fan of white, particularly on trucks. Unless you wash it damned-near daily, it always seems to look dingy. Black's a pain in the ass, too, but at least it looks nefarious... I hate maintaining black vehicles, but I think I will ultimately paint the Imperial black. That body style positively screams for it.
71, it would seem to me the Ithcypussy diesel would be more trouble than it's worth. Non-turbo diesels don't have an accelerator pedal, they have a stink pedal. You push it down, and it makes more smoke and more stench, but you don't actually pick up speed at a noticeable rate. It always amazed me that during the diesel craze of the late '70s and early '80s, not a single American manufacturer noticed that virtually all over-the-road diesels at the time had some kind of forced induction to aid in efficiency and power production. A hairdried or supercharged Olds '99 or Escort wagon might have been a lot more fun to drive, and even better on fuel!
TC: once you've got intercooler stuff lined up, you really need to call my friends at Kurtz Diesel. I described your truck to Art today, and he got all kinds of excited: "We can tell him how to make some real power with that early Cummins once he's got it intercooled." And for the record, when you turn up the power in a diesel if you drive it like a grandma you'll get better mileage. My friend Tom occasionally cruises this board, and he leaves his Bully Dog tuner on "Extreme" for everything but towing, but drives like Mr. Magoo. He regularly gets over 25MPG from his '04 2500HD Quad Cab 4x4 on 31" tires with a sissymatic. He set the Bully Dog for tow/haul mode to protect his transmission on the way to the demo derby last August. Pulling a half-ton-plus trailer with a 4200lb Imperial, torches & tanks, a bunch of tools, probably 10 spare tires, the cooler, a bunch of radiators, etc. we averaged 18.1MPG on the way there... and that was horsing around, essentially racing--spanking a V10 Ram pulling a Chevette and a 454 Chevy 3500 SRW pulling a Crown Vic several times on the way. Neither of the gassers could get double-digit mileage, or catch us with a mild squeeze of the acclereator--Tom never floored it!
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Oh BTW the truck isn't white, it's a very faded and chalked out beige.
Here's what it would look like if it was freshly painted...
Here's what it would look like if it was freshly painted...
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well finally got some time today to work on the truck.
Since the V-band flange was toast on the original exhaust, I picked up some used 3" exhaust from a Cummins truck a guy parted out. Was a good score for $40!! Straight pipe, no muffler, and the rear half of the exhaust was almost new, just dirty and dusty, a few SOS pads later it looked almost new, the front half was in great shape as well.
So I cleaned and installed everything, using all the clamps, hangers, and stuff from the two exhaust systems, they were also almost all new parts as well. I only had to buy two 3" band clamps for $30. I then sold some parts for $40 today, so the whole exhaust system only cost me $30!!:giggedy:
Since the V-band flange was toast on the original exhaust, I picked up some used 3" exhaust from a Cummins truck a guy parted out. Was a good score for $40!! Straight pipe, no muffler, and the rear half of the exhaust was almost new, just dirty and dusty, a few SOS pads later it looked almost new, the front half was in great shape as well.
So I cleaned and installed everything, using all the clamps, hangers, and stuff from the two exhaust systems, they were also almost all new parts as well. I only had to buy two 3" band clamps for $30. I then sold some parts for $40 today, so the whole exhaust system only cost me $30!!:giggedy:
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
yeah but he would gain 4WD...hmmmmDon't paint it! You'll lose a foot and a half of bed length!
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well I was hoping to get RAE on the road today...but things happened.
I picked up my 2 piece drive shaft this morning, had to get the front half shorted a bit since it was pushed TIGHT against the output shaft seal on the NV4500...Not good. I also had the 2 pieces balanced together as well.
I got the drive shafts back in and decided to take RAE around the block. Fired it up and gave it some throttle and shifted gears...AND the RPM didn't come back down, I tapped the throttle thinking something was stuck, and the throttle went even higher!! Quickly shut the truck off and drifted to a stop. Found out that the throttle shaft was sticky as all heck. So off it came, dismantled everything, sanded and cleaned all the parts, lubed everything and re-installed...Works great now!!
Then I noticed that the truck wasn't braking right. Set the E-brake...Nothing...Hmmm I just adjusted everything up tight I should have E-brakes. Brought the truck back into the driveway and jacked it up, put E-brake on and I could spin the wheel easily. Had my daughter hold the brake pedal down to the floor and I tried to spin the rear wheel...again turned easily.
So off came the wheels, pulled the axles...another bad thing...they were so covered in rust and debris I was absolutely shocked. I just changed the diff fluid, but now I have to drain things again, clean all the rust and debris out of the axle tubes and then put everything back together. Hope there is no major damage from the previous owners and myself running this dana 60 with all that debris inside.
I didn't have a socket to fit the 2 1/2" nut that holds the drums and bearings on so I had to make something work...and no I didn't use a chisel and hammer... :naughty: I used a set of big flat welding clamps, I was able to grab the side and spin the nut loose, but the PO sure used a chisel and hammer though.
Anyway got the drums off and found things unhooked, one bad drum, one set of brake pads that are turning all soft and flaky, never seen this before? So tomorrow I go shopping for proper socket for the axle nut, drums, and shoes, seals etc....$$$
I picked up my 2 piece drive shaft this morning, had to get the front half shorted a bit since it was pushed TIGHT against the output shaft seal on the NV4500...Not good. I also had the 2 pieces balanced together as well.
I got the drive shafts back in and decided to take RAE around the block. Fired it up and gave it some throttle and shifted gears...AND the RPM didn't come back down, I tapped the throttle thinking something was stuck, and the throttle went even higher!! Quickly shut the truck off and drifted to a stop. Found out that the throttle shaft was sticky as all heck. So off it came, dismantled everything, sanded and cleaned all the parts, lubed everything and re-installed...Works great now!!
Then I noticed that the truck wasn't braking right. Set the E-brake...Nothing...Hmmm I just adjusted everything up tight I should have E-brakes. Brought the truck back into the driveway and jacked it up, put E-brake on and I could spin the wheel easily. Had my daughter hold the brake pedal down to the floor and I tried to spin the rear wheel...again turned easily.
So off came the wheels, pulled the axles...another bad thing...they were so covered in rust and debris I was absolutely shocked. I just changed the diff fluid, but now I have to drain things again, clean all the rust and debris out of the axle tubes and then put everything back together. Hope there is no major damage from the previous owners and myself running this dana 60 with all that debris inside.
I didn't have a socket to fit the 2 1/2" nut that holds the drums and bearings on so I had to make something work...and no I didn't use a chisel and hammer... :naughty: I used a set of big flat welding clamps, I was able to grab the side and spin the nut loose, but the PO sure used a chisel and hammer though.
Anyway got the drums off and found things unhooked, one bad drum, one set of brake pads that are turning all soft and flaky, never seen this before? So tomorrow I go shopping for proper socket for the axle nut, drums, and shoes, seals etc....$$$
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
I have my grandfathers old Craftsman 3/4" drive socket set...goes from 1" up to 2". But the one I need is a specific shape and is 2 9/16" Going to NAPA (USA) tomorrow since they seem to have everything I need at reasonable prices, and with teh CDN dollar at par it just makes good financial sense....
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
theres actualy a good story behind mye socket and adapter...i kept dropping the addapter while walking around sears and just plugged it into the socket..went to the counter and paid..it wasnt till i got home that i realised the blond running the till had only charger me for the 15$ adapter and not the 30+$ socket
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well RAE is on the road, almost a week now, and I'm lovin' it!!:giggedy:
All the servicing is done now. Rear end is all done, getting all the rust and crud out of those axle tubes was a major pain!! But they were almost spotless when I put it all back together. New drums and shoes, serviced all the E-brake and brake hardware and everything works great now.
Serviced the front rotors, cleaned and repacked the bearings, new seals, and had to cut through all the nasty glazing on the rotor surface by hand, but way better braking now.
Think the throw out bearing is going, squeals once in a while when engaging/disengaging the clutch. So the tranny will have to come out since it's a sealed bearing and there is no access to the clutch or offending areas.:doubt:
But I've put on almost 325miles and used maybe 10 gallons of fuel....[smilie=2: That is mixed Hwy and city. It got 42 miles to the gallon when I drove it home on the initial purchase. Compared to the 360 which was getting maybe 300+ miles to 30 gallons.
Just bought a Tach and Pyro kit for it, with a dual pillar gauge pod, not cheap but necessary. Will get a boost gauge as well once I get an intercooler set-up on.
Sure nice to be able to haul the entire family in the truck now. Hope to use RAE for our family vacation this year, but need to do a retro on the A/C system first.
All the servicing is done now. Rear end is all done, getting all the rust and crud out of those axle tubes was a major pain!! But they were almost spotless when I put it all back together. New drums and shoes, serviced all the E-brake and brake hardware and everything works great now.
Serviced the front rotors, cleaned and repacked the bearings, new seals, and had to cut through all the nasty glazing on the rotor surface by hand, but way better braking now.
Think the throw out bearing is going, squeals once in a while when engaging/disengaging the clutch. So the tranny will have to come out since it's a sealed bearing and there is no access to the clutch or offending areas.:doubt:
But I've put on almost 325miles and used maybe 10 gallons of fuel....[smilie=2: That is mixed Hwy and city. It got 42 miles to the gallon when I drove it home on the initial purchase. Compared to the 360 which was getting maybe 300+ miles to 30 gallons.
Just bought a Tach and Pyro kit for it, with a dual pillar gauge pod, not cheap but necessary. Will get a boost gauge as well once I get an intercooler set-up on.
Sure nice to be able to haul the entire family in the truck now. Hope to use RAE for our family vacation this year, but need to do a retro on the A/C system first.
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
If you got anything north of 20MPG on that truck at any point, someone's been playing in that motor, big-time. The absolute best that's ever been proven to me out of a Cummins Dodge is 29MPG, and that was a computer-controlled 2005 QuadCab 24V shortbox with freer-flowing exhaust, a fresh-air intake, 3.54 gears and computer mods. Another fella claimed 31 from an '06, but I wasn't there to witness it.
You don't even have an intercooler which would boost mileage considerably. 42MPG would be Guinness material... either their book of world records or you've had too much stout. The highest fuel economy I've ever witness from a diesel of any kind was just shy of 60MPG. That was a Jetta wagon with a manual transmission which was at least a ton and a half lighter than your truck with 4 liters less displacement. If you got more than 25MPG out of a mechanical-fuel 12V Cummins, I know several people who'd love to inspect that engine, simply because they could make a fortune by knowing what combo you've got.
Remember: the only accurate way to measure mileage is to use the same "gas" pump, fill until it shuts itself off the first time, and measure your actual mileage travelled. You also need to make sure your speedo and therefore odometer is 100% accurate, and then and only then do the long division to get your fuel economy. You can't go by the fuel gauge in pre-'94 Dodge fullsize trucks, as the fuel-sender arm travels in an arc rather than a linear motion. Because of that (similar to what's in your wagon) it seems to take forever to go through the first half-tank of fuel and the second half vanishes quickly.
32.5MPG would be a certifiable miracle from that truck. 42MPG is nigh-on impossible.
You don't even have an intercooler which would boost mileage considerably. 42MPG would be Guinness material... either their book of world records or you've had too much stout. The highest fuel economy I've ever witness from a diesel of any kind was just shy of 60MPG. That was a Jetta wagon with a manual transmission which was at least a ton and a half lighter than your truck with 4 liters less displacement. If you got more than 25MPG out of a mechanical-fuel 12V Cummins, I know several people who'd love to inspect that engine, simply because they could make a fortune by knowing what combo you've got.
Remember: the only accurate way to measure mileage is to use the same "gas" pump, fill until it shuts itself off the first time, and measure your actual mileage travelled. You also need to make sure your speedo and therefore odometer is 100% accurate, and then and only then do the long division to get your fuel economy. You can't go by the fuel gauge in pre-'94 Dodge fullsize trucks, as the fuel-sender arm travels in an arc rather than a linear motion. Because of that (similar to what's in your wagon) it seems to take forever to go through the first half-tank of fuel and the second half vanishes quickly.
32.5MPG would be a certifiable miracle from that truck. 42MPG is nigh-on impossible.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Good points Doc. :2thumbs:
I'll have to check the speedo and Odometers with say my wife pacing me in her car. And then wait until the next fill up to get a better, more accurate idea of the fuel mileage. But the preliminary findings so far are very encouraging.
I'll have to check the speedo and Odometers with say my wife pacing me in her car. And then wait until the next fill up to get a better, more accurate idea of the fuel mileage. But the preliminary findings so far are very encouraging.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well speedo is out by about 10mph, guess my speedo gear in the NV4500 is set for a 4.10, not a 3.54 rear. SO that will throw off my MPG a bit, but even cutting off 10% of my total mileage I'll still be around 600+ miles on my fill up in a day or two.
I have my new 235/85/16 BF Goodrich commercial T/A tires on, nice tires. I also got my new flex brake hoses installed today as well.
I've ordered all the pieces to retro my A/C system under the hood, and I'm not using any of the original parts other then the compressor, and a new Expansion valve, other then that everything will be new or retro'd.
Found out my upper ball joints and inner tie rods are on the way out. But the parts truck I had last year had new upper control arms in the cab, new Moog BJ's and new bushings, so that costs me NADA...
I'm going to order new inner and out tie rods as well. Might replace the lower BJ's since I'll have everything apart anyway.
Need to find and original tranny cross member, since the C-channel they used to make the mounts are a little lacking, there is only one bolt on either side to hold the mount to the frame! Wonder what would happen if I loaded the drive line up....:doh:
I have my new 235/85/16 BF Goodrich commercial T/A tires on, nice tires. I also got my new flex brake hoses installed today as well.
I've ordered all the pieces to retro my A/C system under the hood, and I'm not using any of the original parts other then the compressor, and a new Expansion valve, other then that everything will be new or retro'd.
Found out my upper ball joints and inner tie rods are on the way out. But the parts truck I had last year had new upper control arms in the cab, new Moog BJ's and new bushings, so that costs me NADA...
I'm going to order new inner and out tie rods as well. Might replace the lower BJ's since I'll have everything apart anyway.Need to find and original tranny cross member, since the C-channel they used to make the mounts are a little lacking, there is only one bolt on either side to hold the mount to the frame! Wonder what would happen if I loaded the drive line up....:doh:
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well it's sitting pretty high, so I would think a cross member from a 2wd, manual trans set-up would get me close. The factory mount looks like it has 3 bolts on each side to help keep everything together.