1982 Cordoba Stock Car.

[Stretch]

After dealing with the rear springs on my waGOON I would seriously think about adding a second leaf on those. :hmmm:

Id only consider that after the thing goes on corner scales. You can add and take away as needed to do what you can with your corner weights. Call me when you are ready and I'll walk you through this. There are some tricks that will go un noticed by your inspectors. I worked in a spring fab shop for 15 years remember.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

Thanks for the offer Stretch but unfortunately with no access to corner weight scales I can't see myself messing with the rear springs for a while.

Hell there is only two street class cars that have sat on corner scales.


If I asked to borrow a set of those scales for a "Thunder Car" I'd get laughed at.


Don't get me wrong I would love to but I just can't at the moment, maybe one day but for now I'll have to do without.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

Eliminated the ISO setup.

Shock Plates Finished.

Gear carrier installed, ISO eliminating pieces tacked in place ready for welding.

New shoes, wheel cylinders, axle seals, shoe hardware and all the welding done. Just need to press in the new wheel studs and I can install the axle shafts and bolt the diff down.

 

[Stretch]

We used 4 grain scales for years. They can be had cheep in farm country Bud.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

We used 4 grain scales for years. They can be had cheep in farm country Bud.

Not out here their not. Anyone that owns them still uses them.



Made some more progress this weekend. Currently waiting for more parts to arrive from Summit Racing and Bryke Racing.



LCA's Installed.

New rear brake line installed. Just need my stainless braided hoses to arrive.

Differential Installed.

Header Panel Installed.

Top of both door skins finished.

Window Net Kit Installed.

Looking more and more like a race car!

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

So I finally received my torsion bar bushings from www.polybushings.com and set about trying to take apart the old torsion bar mounts to replace the bushings last weekend.



Got one apart intact, things are looking good.






Second one not so much.






So I decided to just make two replacement inner bushing sleeves using the one undamaged one as a guide.

Got a piece of water pipe and got a friend of mine to take it to work and machine down either end.





So now this past weekend I set about the fabrication process yet again.

Cut to fit and reused the factory end washers and welded them in place.






Pressed the sway bar mount onto the end, drilled the retaining bolt hole and then pinched the two metal halves together and tack welded them.





One completed torsion bar mount. I did replace the pivot bushings with the poly ones as well but they went in so easy I forgot to take pictures. :doh:







Torsion bars installed, K-frame installed, UCA's and spindles installed.









Next weekend.

Steering box, pitman arm, idler arm, 11.75" rotors, bearings, seals, pads, pin type calipers, 11/16" inner tie rods, 11/16" outer tie rods and 11/16" tie rod sleeves.

 

[thrashingcows]

Nice work there Dippy!! :2thumbsup:

That's some nice work you did there to fix those lower inner bushing sleeves. And I to have been looking at a few products from polybushings.com. Those 11/16" units...they from a 1 ton van or something?

 

[Dr.Jass]

Actually, I think they're standard C-body parts. The rest of Mopars used a smaller 9/16" diameter. A big help in stiffening the steering is to weld the slots in the adjustment sleeves closed once the tie rods are in place, but obviously you want to be careful not to accidentally weld one of the tie-rod ends to the sleeve. Another big difference you can make is reinforcing the steering box's mount on the K-member. I think Diplodicus already did that, but I can't recall for sure.

Excellent work, my friend.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

I actually found those tie rod parts by looking up a '77 Aspen, Napa listed both sizes for that model.

There are pictures previously posted of the boxing process.

I plan on welding up most of the slot as you need to leave the end open so the clamps work properly.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Yes, you only need to weld up the center area. I figured that was somewhat obvious.

It's strange that you found those bigger tie rods under the Aspen application, since nothing but C-bodies ever came with the heavier tie rods from the factory. Even the non-C police cars got the smaller stuff.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

I don't know why either.

It was only the Aspen, nothing else.

They also listed a "Police Package" idler arm with no stock anywhere.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

Still picking away.

Ran out of money for the stock car as of now so It's been put on hold and sadly will not be run this season.

Currently finishing up the brakes right now and installing new steering components.

 

[Stretch]

I'm not so sure your T-bar fix is going to work. Is that a load bearing area? Black pipe is brittle has hell. I see that failing in a bad way. Nice work though.

 

[thrashingcows]

I'm not so sure your T-bar fix is going to work. Is that a load bearing area? Black pipe is brittle has hell. I see that failing in a bad way. Nice work though.

But it's the inner sleeve...so it's surrounded by the bushing. Still think it might fail?

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

I'm not so sure your T-bar fix is going to work. Is that a load bearing area? Black pipe is brittle has hell. I see that failing in a bad way. Nice work though.

But it's the inner sleeve...so it's surrounded by the bushing. Still think it might fail?

I know I said it's water line but
it's not black pipe. For the record it's impossible to weld black pipe.

It's welded seam steel tubing used for making hydraulic cylinders, it's plenty strong. Same pipe as the roll cage just heavier wall. It's easily 3/16" wall.

 

[Stretch]

So its DOM tubing? If so, your fine! You can weld black pipe. It won't hold worth a shit because its brittle but it can be welded.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

Yes that's what it's called. DOM tubing.

I don't even use black pipe for plumbing.

 

[68R/T]

You can weld black pipe. It won't hold worth a shit because its brittle but it can be welded.

That's what I used to extend the drivers side manifold on my waGOON. At least I think it was black pipe. It was mostly rusty. :huh:

 

[Dr.Jass]

Black pipe is simply cast iron. If it was 70-year-old black pipe, then I'd overwhelmingly agree with Stretch. However, anyone that's ever mixed a batch of molten iron in a foundry can tell you, there's a lot of science that goes into alloying cast iron these days. They don't just cast raw pig iron anymore (except when they make the actual pigs used to load the melting furnace).

That being said, I think new black pipe would have done OK in this application due to the bushings and the miniscule amount of shear (not sheer--there's big difference in definition between the two ) load on it, and due to its thickness I think the hole drilled would have even held under expansion and compression. However, I would much rather just do it in steel once and be done with it forever.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

miniscule amount of shear (not sheer--there's big difference in definition between the two ).

:bahh:


Wait was that right? :shifty:

However, I would much rather just do it in steel once and be done with it forever.

That's why I made mine out of quality steel.

I never want to do that again if I can help it, my God what a pain in the ass!