Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Being that I'm stuck in Escanaba most of the time, I decided I'd grab the majority of the instrument cluster so I could work on it here. Small progress is still progress, right? Unfortunately, being that I haven't got much in the line of tools available to me here, it's mostly inspection and planning on this tachometer and additional-gauge stuff.
I've further torn down the AutoMeter tach, and it looks like I can actually make it work. It looked like it was of fairly unitized design, but that's actually not the case. I can remove the circuit board and move it to a remote location which will save space, and the frame of the tach motor can then be ground to fit within the confines of the factory gauge carrier and be mounted with the original AutoMeter screws that held everything together in its original case. I'm excited about it, since I really wanted the accuracy of the AutoMeter unit.
If I rewire things correctly, a couple of well-placed machine screws through the back of the main cluster carrier, located in the position of the original fuel gauge's power/signal studs, may be able to provide the tach's 12V power through the factory circuit board. Since I don't have to worry about the illumination wire, that means I have only to figure out how to get the coil signal to the tach, which isn't a huge concern... it doesn't have to be 100% plug-and-play, even though I'd prefer that.
*rubs hands together* This is gonna work. :dance:
Now if I can just figure out a quick-disconnect setup for my mechanical oil-pressure gauge that doesn't involve a compression fitting.
I've further torn down the AutoMeter tach, and it looks like I can actually make it work. It looked like it was of fairly unitized design, but that's actually not the case. I can remove the circuit board and move it to a remote location which will save space, and the frame of the tach motor can then be ground to fit within the confines of the factory gauge carrier and be mounted with the original AutoMeter screws that held everything together in its original case. I'm excited about it, since I really wanted the accuracy of the AutoMeter unit.
If I rewire things correctly, a couple of well-placed machine screws through the back of the main cluster carrier, located in the position of the original fuel gauge's power/signal studs, may be able to provide the tach's 12V power through the factory circuit board. Since I don't have to worry about the illumination wire, that means I have only to figure out how to get the coil signal to the tach, which isn't a huge concern... it doesn't have to be 100% plug-and-play, even though I'd prefer that.
*rubs hands together* This is gonna work. :dance:
Now if I can just figure out a quick-disconnect setup for my mechanical oil-pressure gauge that doesn't involve a compression fitting.