What are you working on?

How beefy are the control arm brackets for the sway bar?
A lot heavier than I expected! 1/4" I bet. I didn't measure them but I definitely was pleased with that very thing. The bolt that attaches them to the arm is a 1/2" grade 8 bolt.
 
if you havnt already i highly recommend the LCA stiffener plates..especialy with adding the swaybar and didnt you add beefier t-bars?
 
if you havnt already i highly recommend the LCA stiffener plates..especialy with adding the swaybar and didnt you add beefier t-bars?
I have those plates for my valiant. I also have v8 bars for that car.

I did not replace the bars in this car. I have no plans to add the plates to this car either. This car is nothing more than basic daily transportation. It absolutely needed the sway bar but it will never see any hard driving.
 
how can you need the sway bar but not the plates..
imo they go hand in hand as those lower are flex like hell with a sway attached as your litteraly using the car to intentionaly distort them by means of the sway and weight shift
 
Chrysler built literally millions of cars with swaybars, but never used LCA stiffeners, so they aren't some kind of "you gotta have both" item. Stretch's car is about as heavy as an A-body got, giving up very few pounds to a V8 car. It needed the swaybar because the car leaned so badly in normal everyday driving, not canyon carving. With me in the car, the RF tire would rub the fenderwell on LH turns from a dead stop. It really should've had one from the factory. It's not a "corners on rails" thing, it's a "can we not rub the tire on low-speed turns?" problem.

I bought the exact-same swaybar for my '68 Valiant, which is also a slant six manual, but without AC. I have no intention of wasting time, money, or effort to make it a corner-burner. I have other cars for that nonsense. I just want it to feel like it won't roll over in low-speed turns... same as Stretch. Since neither car will be driven hard and with both having optimum fuel economy as a primary goal, adding useless weight is a move in the wrong direction. The only reason His Elasticity even bothered with the four-speed was to get better fuel economy. Yeah, it'll be gutsier off the line but that swap was not done as a performance upgrade because it's not a performance car. Neither speed nor handling are not concerns, so long as neither is frighteningly bad.
 
picked up a cheep work mule..guy was parting it out to fix his "wrecked" low mile unit, all said its CLEAN
current list of what ive had to do
new alt
bumpers(yes that ones new challenger green)
grills
hatch
misc interior trim
1 tmps
tires
fender
door catch
axle back exhaust
headlights

just got to take it for a drive before the snow hit us..runs flawlessly codes all cleared save for an evap code, but ive got spare for that and another tmps on 2 wheels...gah
will make a great lil cheep delivery rig....lookin to paint it toyotas version of b5...something nice kinda flashy but not "in your face"

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What exactly is that...a Kia as well?

Nice that you have a pick and pull where you can get most of the parts!
 
yeah its a gen2 toaster scion xb and i tell ya what its a fun spunky lil shit..
aside from chasing parts i had to do a lil maintinance, kept re-poping the emissions crap, eventualy turned out that the "cheep" replacement O2 up top(i didnt do it) was telling the second 02 that the second o2 was bad.....they are both denso's now

interiors clean 200k on the clock
 
of course the washing machine started freaking out lastnight...so its been gutted to the bone, need a new output shaft bearings and seals...not bad for a 20+ year old unit...the ole kenmore 90 series..they dont get much simpler and parts are relitively cheep
 
Well I've been getting things ready to tear into Patches on my next days off...new clutch assembly and pull oil pan to do the rear main seal. Been putting this off for at least 2-3 years now and with the throw out bearing now grinding/squealing almost every time I use it I can't put it off any longer.
 
Friday night after work a buddy stopped by and we ran cat5 out to my garage. It's a 200 foot run under ground from the house to the garage. We "parachuted" a string through the 4" conduit with a walmart bag and my 5h.p. shop vac then pulled the wire through with the string.

It sure is nice to have interwebs in the garage! I had to set my phone in one particular window to use the house wifi. This is the 🐈 pajamas let me tell ya!

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It does. There are two 90° bends and a long sweep in that 200 ft. run. The tighter the seal to the vacuum, the better it works.
It's also surprising quick if the conduit is empty and the seal is tight. When we did it to pull the power lines the bag was at the vacuum in less than 15 seconds.
 
power then net are ALWAYS the first 2 PERIOD, even if the net takes a while to get hooked up due to complications....

personaly ive been fixing factoroy FUCKUP on my wifes yaris...more later...and in the same week the ole kenmore washer desided to throw a fit..and a bushing..so rebuilding it too....ALSO..going thru my ole xl500s to take on a 6 hour road trip to leave it behind for an 06 xb
 
I should extend the wireless to my garage but I'll have to invest in some sort of signal enhancer. The buildings aren't that far apart but our house has terrible coverage even inside. I think it's due to all the lead paint and asbestos TBH. :eek: It's an old house.
 

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