What are you working on?

Thanks!

It’s tempered. So, good and safe.
1/4”, I think. Hopefully, strong enough.

They do installs on apartment building balconies. So, it’s got to be safe.
I recently assembled some office furniture that had 1/8" tempered glass on all the horizontal surfaces. Holy cow that stuff is heavy. I bet all that 1/4" glass was great fun to install.
 
A couple of projects this weekend.

Front suspension rebuild on the Shart. Carb rebuild for a friend. He is restoring a 1929 Reo. The car has been sitting fo at least 30 years and OH BOY was the carb rusty inside! No kit so gaskets are all hand made by yours truly. And I'm showing a buddy how to rebuild his M21 Muncie 4 speed for his '67 GTO. Hes doing all the work. I'm just there to teach and help clean parts. 20230129_140145.jpg20230129_163528.jpg20230129_163515.jpg20230129_140227.jpg20230129_140153.jpg20230129_140244.jpg20230129_140254.jpg20230129_140301.jpg20230129_140306.jpg20230129_150354.jpg20230129_150249.jpg20230129_142136.jpg20230129_150443.jpg20230129_151130.jpg20230127_191113.jpg
 
I returned the carb to Clete this morning. He didn't think it was the same carburetor. He said he was going home to put it on. He stopped at the shop after lunch and said it fired right up and is purring like a kitten. Now he can't wait to take it for a test drive.
 
I finally cleared out space in the garage to pull the truck in and have a look at the exhaust on it.

It looks like someone tried to make a head pipe for it. If I had to guess I'd say the weld near the flange has a lot to do with the leak.



On the other side it looks like they were able to reuse the top of the pipe where it's flanged so this side doesn't leak.



Nice welds.

Thankfully the pipe is still available, Walker 40235, 58.79 from Rockauto. Also thankful Dodge used bolts and not studs at the flange.

Personally though, I like the muffler


Saving money on clamps
 
That Y pipe is madness, but in their defense, it is $120+ at the local parts stores. Maybe they didn't know to use the internet when that was done.

I plan to check the brakes tonight and put together an order. I'm hoping it doesn't need anything in the brakes because it stops good. Definitely needs a new serpentine belt. The hoses don't look like they've ever been off based on the clamps, and it's tight enough I'm not inclined to mess with them until it's necessary.

Gina's talking about driving to a local junkyard to look for truck parts this weekend. I need some sheetmetal piece parts around the rockers for splicing. They probably all rust in the same place though so we might not have any luck with that. Since the frame has no problems I'm not as worried about fixing the body as I would be if it was a unibody. I might also need a radio since this one doesn't work for some reason but it might just be unplugged because it's dead as Julius Caesar.
 
I have a DIN-conversion radio bracket all wired up for that truck with an NOS Nakamichi CD45Z and an Alpine 3331 passive equalizer. It all fits in the factory dash opening. :cool:

'Course, passives mean amps, and amps mean more time, space, and money. B-body-Bob bumpin' bass on the boulevard. Word.
 
Yeah baby.

I just want it to work enough to pick up my in car SD card to AM converter. Or more truthfully, it drives me nuts that it doesn't work so I need to figure out if the problem is in the wiring or the radio.
 
I finally got back to work on my white 2500, Cletus, and the 3 pedal swap. I'm up to the pedal and hole in the floor point. Now it's time for the laborious part of the job. Once the automatic is out of the way I'll clean up the sharp edges of the hole. IMG_2370.jpegIMG_2399.jpeg
 
Got it test drive the patio today.
mid 40s outside, but with the sun hitting the glass, things warmed up to high 60s without the need for any heaters running.

Once the sun moved off though, temperature dropped pretty quickly.

It’s bird approved, though he was a bit freaked out about being out there and not in a cage or carrier.
7FF81317-4D1C-4D52-B336-3584BBD216F9.jpeg
 
Just some shop photos from the last couple of weeks.

I assembled the front suspension, set the ride height and added a sway bar on the dart.

I removed the front sway bar on the Can-am to get axle articulation. Most of the riding we do is crawling through the bush.

Then yesterday I replaced the valve guide seals on the Shart. 20230203_184315.jpg20230203_184325.jpg20230204_064205.jpg20230203_175609.jpg20230217_163519.jpg20230217_162051.jpg20230219_125157.jpg20230219_130533.jpg20230211_140209.jpg20230219_125150.jpg20230211_120001.jpg20230211_115955.jpg20230209_073743.jpg20230209_074058.jpg20230219_141616.jpg20230211_140239.jpg20230219_130536.jpg20230219_141607.jpg20230217_162015.jpg20230209_073708.jpg
 
Last edited:
whoa..that swaybar hanging below the control arms scares the piss out of me

on the sidex..i woulda put quick releasses on the sway so it could still be used when wanted
 
How beefy are the control arm brackets for the sway bar?
I added a factory bar to my '75 Dart Sport way back when. It made a big difference in hilly-and-twisty-road Cape Breton.
 

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top