What are you working on?

69.5CUDA said:
who says snow wheels should just be ugly?

FWIW the salt flat discs require alot of...adjustment...to get them to stop making noises, which i actualy preplanned for with nylon spacers that fit over the threaded studs...even still i had to "tweak" the discs as well..seems the biggest issue is disc to wheel chatter....the other issue is when little rocks find their way in thru the holes in the wheels and cant get out.....yes delivering i see gravel roads now n then..sooooooits kinda an issue

this is a great test for me tho on the discs for the lloyd to see what kind of things i need to pre-do to not have issues..like for the lloyd ill need to add a rubber ring behind the disc to stop the chatter due to being recessed on an aluminum wheel vs the yaris steel...ill also need to shave either the wheel or the disc for a little more clearance as its a VERY snug fit on the lloyd, lastly ill need to see about maybe a screen? on the holes in the wheels....i dont forsee gravel in my future but rocks on roads happens especialy early spring
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While I'm not at all a fan of the look of Moon discs, they'd be very useful in winter here where we really get a lot of snow. Packed snow in a wheel makes an amazing wheel weight and throws the balance all to hell.

I don't think a lot of gravel would get through the wheel holes--that's a long journey once it gets past the drum or rotor--the space on the outside could be a trick. You could use very-small vacuum/windshield-wash tubing as a gasket, or get some universal foam weatherstrip at the hardware or parts store--the same stuff I used on my dash speakers in the "Signet-ficant Other" thread. It's available in very small sizes, something like 1/8" square cross-section, if I recall. The stuff I used is made by Au-Ve-Co.
 
yeah im not sold on the disc for this application, especially clear coated..they look better than the pic's but scrubbing clearing them really ruined the "finish" of them..but like i said they make a good testbed for the lloyd for the futre as a test mule...the amount of attention the car gets with them on tho is astounding..youd think i was driving a tricked out 57 chevy or something

im not sure if the square foam would be better or worse than rubber to be honest..either should work its a question of whats going to stay put best LOL

in the matter of a couple hours of deliverys had been fighting little noises..and was stopping and playing with shims EVERY time id find rocks in them...just little ones that were trapped nothing even as big as a marble or pea size 1/4inch or a lil bigger..so they deffinatly get in there.....ill be playing with them more to see how often it actualy happens, maybe the bunch of gravel driveways and roads i was on that day made my luck of getting them just that much higher....i would think tho the odds of getting them in the REAR wheels would be considerably higher than getting them in the front..oddly enough i got 2 or 3 in the front driver and the same in the driver rear..but non on the passenger side at all
 
The assembly goo is awesome! Much better than the wheel bearing grease I've used in the past.

You don't spay your equipment? :D
 
Transmission is 99% done. I just need to transfer the speedo gear and housing from the 904.

Oh, and the door is mounted and un masked but not assembled or adjusted. The color is a closer match than the pictures imply. The car is dirty and the paint is oxidized. I good cleaning and polish will make the match plenty good enough.20221204_160653.jpg20221204_160645.jpg20221204_160648.jpg20221204_171845.jpg20221204_171912.jpg20221204_171925.jpg20221204_171903.jpg
 
i think once assembled and trim all in place any minor imperfection in color will damn neer be un-noticeable...especialy after being driven a day or 2 to get some dust n grime on the door
 
The new paint will likely tone down slightly over a few days, especially if there are any oxide toners in the mix.
If not, and it bothers you, send send me a note and I'll come over and take the car off of your hands. :)
 
Well the Coronet passed inspection! Couple small issue that they were willing to over look with the agreement that I would purchase the replacement tires I need for the coronet from them...;) Great shop that was almost all old car guys...even a bunch of customers who came in turned out to be Mopar guys...they all drooled over the Coronet. I also got to check out the shop owners 63 Polara 2dr hardtop that is in the midst of a max wedge tribute conversion.

So it's finally registered and back in my name after it's 20 year hiatus, just didn't feel like it was officially mine until now!

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They wanted a shot of the car in front of their shop...

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Just got back from a 29 hour/1950 km rounder to get the 4 post lift, trip there was pretty good, but got it loaded and as soon as I fueled up a storm came sweeping in, the whole drive back was lots of snow, freezing rain, wicked winds, glazed ice roads, and poor visibility made it take 3-4 hours longer than planned....but I did manage to get a total of 2 hours of sleep during the trip so I got that going for me..I'm a mess!

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Now what I got...It's an Older made in USA Lift King 8000lbs unit and clearly been used but for the price I couldn't pass. The hydraulic cylinder was leaking and during our price negotiations he agreed that a new seal kit would be provided. Well I get there and he opens with that he couldn't get a seal kit...I thought great now I'll have to find one...well he then hands me a receipt for a complete tear down, polish, hone and seals of the hydraulic cylinder at a local HD hydraulic shop...cost him $750 to get it redone and he stood by our negotiated price and didn't ask me for any additional coin!!

Patches did great as always, but that throw out bearing that has been making noise from time to time for a couple years now is about done. Last 3 hours or so of my drive it was giving me that dry bearing squeal every time I engaged/disengaged the clutch....guess I'm gonna have to do the clutch in it sooner than later.

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Tucked in the shop warming up and drying out...

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b-body-bob said:
Sweating pipes works great until you have a pipe that isn't dry and won't dry.
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That IS a pain in the ass.

The old plumber’s trick is to stuff the wet pipe with bread so that water can’t make it to where you’re sweating the new joint.
After it’s done, put a bucket over the open end and turn the water on to flush out the bread.
In an extreme case, where you can’t easily do that, just run the water at the finished fixtures with the aerator screen removed until everything runs clean.
 
the net on the trailer IN THE SNOW makes my ass pucker up..yeah no..just no..fuck snow with something like that....

well you got the lift just in time to do patches throwout LOL
 
Stretch said:
No extra cash? Thats a stand up fella right there!
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I wasn't a dick and just assuming it would be free so I asked if I owed him anything more for the extra work done to the hydraulic ram...he said no we were good! I asked again if he was sure...he said yup were good! Stand up guy for sure!! (y)
 
thrashingcows said:
I wasn't a dick and just assuming it would be free so I asked if I owed him anything more for the extra work done to the hydraulic ram...he said no we were good! I asked again if he was sure...he said yup were good! Stand up guy for sure!! (y)
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I do exactly the same thing.
I did with the rusty od transmission too.
 
I got a bit more done this evening. I absolutely hated the shitty job the previous owner did installing the aftermarket radio. It looked so sloppy just bolted to the under dash AC vent. Not only did it look shit, there was no way to hide the wiring.

I cut the dash and put it where it belongs.

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Hooray it's Bob the plumber again

I always had a seeping leak at the copper end of a sharkbite, but was holding out hope we'd get a plumber out here before now and it'd be OBE. I also knew good and well that messing with it wasn't going to improve it and it wasn't that bad.

Well the only plumber that came out told us he'd be back, then called and said he had the flu, and yesterday the seeping turned into a real leak. At least it's not under the house.

I took it all apart, I cut the pipe back so the fitting would have a clean place to bite, removed all traces of the cut, marked the correct depth, replaced the sharkbite, and the related PEX. After all that I had a dripping leak at the same place as before on the copper side, too much to ignore. The only thing that could be wrong is the pipe isn't round so the sharkbite won't seal on it..

So today I decided to try a compression fitting on the copper. I got all that in, but the compression end never stopped leaking and I'm pretty sure I just heard the nut crack.

Now I have to move the washer, cut out about 6' of pipe because it runs behind the water heater, hope that a sharkbite won't leak over there, run PEX from that back over to where I am now, with the water heater plumbed in the middle of that - which will involve YASB (yet another sharkbite) to join the copper from the heater to the PEX.

It's all out in the garage, but it's getting dangerously close to the crawl space.

FML.
 
"if" you got a compression fitting from lowes/home depot EXPECT it to leak, ive given up getting compression fittings from either of them cause 1 in 10 wont leak...IF harbor frieght made plumbing it would be higher quality than both of them combined
 
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