What are you working on?

It sounds like you've got ground issues, either a loop or a float
This is one of those outlets on an outside wall, which I think all have good 3-prong connections to ground but I can't say for sure because there's a heavy assed desk in the way of checking it out. So I just don't use the pedals.

They hum less when plugged into an outlet on the other wall, except when the HVAC runs and throws is some kind of noise into it, but that Catlinbread pedal is a howler and doesn't work on AC at all. It does work with a battery, or at least it did the last time I tried one in it.

Sabbra Cadabra
 
Ooh ground problems. Had them. Finally did a vendor meet at my house with the light and cable companies to find a bad ground crimp at the pole causing all the hum bars on the tv’s and data drop outs.
 
I still have bundy's furgerson toilets in the house. (old full tank jobs)
I have one of those in the basement. Y'know those ads where they show a toilet that'll flush 40 golf balls? That beast in the basement will flush your entire golf bag, clubs and all... probably suck the golf glove off your hand too.

This is one of those outlets on an outside wall, which I think all have good 3-prong connections to ground but I can't say for sure because there's a heavy assed desk in the way of checking it out. So I just don't use the pedals.

They hum less when plugged into an outlet on the other wall, except when the HVAC runs and throws is some kind of noise into it.
It sounds like your issue could be similar to what @74DartSport had with his place.
 
Thanks to the wiring in this room (AFAICT) all of my pedals buzz. I've got one expensive one here that isn't usuable at all (Catalinbread SabbraCadabra). I thought about buying an power adapter that is really a rechargeable battery but didn't follow through. I just quit trying to use them.
Catalinbread stuff is cool. I’ve got a Dirty Little Secret and the Hyper Pak Dirty Channel.
The DLS is still in the box. The Hyper Pak is now going on my board to play with. LOL
Note the graphics. ;)
IMG_2877.jpeg

For troubleshooting, these can be handy. Add a 9V battery and you can figure out if it’s the pedal, the power supply, the power feed, etc.


IMG_2162.png

Most pedals these days don’t allow for a 9V battery inside because people don’t use them at all or they put batteries in and forget about them until they leak. Most circuits draw power if an instrument jack is installed, too. So, that’ll drain the battery even if you’re not using the pedal.

And yeah, as Jass said, make sure your amps have 3-prong power cords and your wall outlets are actually grounded.
If you have an older amp, search up if it was designed with the death capacitor or not. If it was, and it’s still there, get an amp tech to bypass it. Such a bad design.
 
If you plug your guitar straight into the amp and have no issues with buzzing, it might be pedals.
If there’s a little bit and the pedals make it worse, that’s expected. Pedals will just make whatever noise there is, more evident. Except for a noise gate pedal!

If your guitar has single coil pickups, shielding the control cavity can help but it won’t get rid of the noise completely.
If the noise goes way when you touch the strings, you’re missing a ground wire to the bridge in the guitar.

If you can change the sound of the buzz when you move around with the guitar - face different directions etc. The guitar is picking up noise from the room. Computers, TVs, lights, other stuff.

You might know all of this stuff already. I’m throwing it in for the sake of the discussion as well as hoping it might solve your buzz issues.
 
IMG_2877.jpeg

Nice graphics.

Most pedals these days don’t allow for a 9V battery inside because people don’t use them at all or they put batteries in and forget about them until they leak. Most circuits draw power if an instrument jack is installed, too. So, that’ll drain the battery even if you’re not using the pedal.
This one has a battery compartment, and yeah it drained it if I left the cable plugged in so it took about twice for me to give up on that.

I need to get the thing out and see what happens. I spotted an unopened 9v package to try it with.

Gina's napping, and I'm supposed to be working so I can't do it right now.
 
Even though the Sabbra Cadabra will work just fine at 9V, I'd be tempted to use an old laptop power supply (16-18V) on it for a couple of reasons. Obviously, you don't have to worry about the battery going dead, but the other reason is based on my experience with all things audio (and indeed, electronic): Power headroom is good. Even though it only draws about .045W at 9V, I'll bet one American dollar it really shines above 15V.

I have a little Class D 2.1 amp board that's rated from 12-24V input, with a supposed max of 200W available at 24V, 5A (I'm guessing the output caps provide the extra juice for those 5μs peaks) I originally tested it with a 16V, 4.5A IBM Thinkpad supply. It played loudly enough to chase you out of the garage. However, after eyeballing the datasheet for the amp chip and the capacitors' voltage ratings, I decided to push the envelope and connected it to a 28V, 9.5A medical-equipment power supply. Obviously it'll play much more loudly, but even at lower volumes where one could easily talk over the music, the increase in sound quality was substantial. I would expect similar results from your pedal.
 
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I stuck a battery in it, corded it up, and as soon as I hit the foot button it was full volume hummmmmmm.

It had a strat on one end, and a 5w Hotone amp on the other. They both work fine when the pedal is bypassed.

MojoDiamond_Perspective_Hi_V02_180919_1200x1200.png
 
At least knowing that function is the same or similar with battery power, we can eliminate the power supply as a source.

Knowing f__k-all about musical instrument interconnects, the only thing I see offhand that could potentially generate a hum in those photos is the jacks. Specifically, they're both for TRS plugs. If one of your cables is using a TS plug on either end you could be either lifting a ground, or grounding something that shouldn't be.

Checking your amp ground and patch cables are still solid ideas. Yes, the amp works fine connected directly to the guitar, but now you're adding an entire new electrical loop and a complex circuit into the equation. A damaged cable can create the problem too, as can it lying too close to a power strip, outlet, extension cord, etc.
 
I just realized I might have made it worse than it needed to be because looking at the amp I see the gain is all the way up The too cool for school pedal doesn't have a plain old gain knob but it does have a Vol 4 knob (har-har-har) and that's at about 3 o'clock so I might have some overboosted noise going on. It was always noisy but usable on battery power, but after some moving things around, it's like it is.

 
everything but the top bar is adjustable hitch stock...so these racks weigh a ton in themselves...those panels are 25, 20, 18, 8, 5, enough to skin me a 35x50 at 14ft ceiling...this is me re-unloading them once home..idaho was cold and...unimpressive
note that squat....the 6inch lift is a combination of maxxed out T-bars and f250 rear spring mix


IMG_20240103_153139_489.jpgIMG_20240103_160522_075.jpg
 
everything but the top bar is adjustable hitch stock...so these racks weigh a ton in themselves...those panels are 25, 20, 18, 8, 5, enough to skin me a 35x50 at 14ft ceiling...this is me re-unloading them once home..idaho was cold and...unimpressive
note that squat....the 6inch lift is a combination of maxxed out T-bars and f250 rear spring mix


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Good looking dog there. Ain't nobody stealing that load.

Seems like a friendly police officer might want to talk to you, if one had seen you.
 
Don’t think that’s optimal. Daughters 2012 Santa Fe. Probably happened on the Cross Bronx. Luckily didn’t eat the tire, just a little trim from the inner shoulder.
 

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We had several inches here, and single-digit temps. Then all at once it warmed up and started raining.

I mentioned in another thread that I let the snow stand on my car, then the warming/melting cycle cracked the paint on the hatch lip spoiler. Hooray. I guess I just have to be happy that part is fiberglass so it's not likely to rust. :unsure:

Every time something like this happens I think I should've sold it during the pandemic when used car prices were out of sight, and every time something like this happens I get farther from selling it. 2016 GTI, 20k miles.
 

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