What are you working on?
- Thread starter Stretch
- Start date
b-body-bob
Well-known member
There's nothing like a day under the house to bring out the hillbilly in me. 
b-body-bob
Well-known member
My daughter's got a Kona, I will look for leaks, thanks for the heads up.
I've got a Kona too but it's a bike.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
did you send that cold here, I've been out of it for 3 days now, got friggen pink eye to go with it, finally forced myself out to pull the tarp off my tent today, talkin the heavy stuff, I hope there wrong I'm too old for this crap, but at least I won't loose another tent! 
Somehow I got lucky , 4or5 thousand lbs of snow & I got 1 tiny dent in the rear window frame
Took me like a week to clean the snow back there up!
Somehow I got lucky , 4or5 thousand lbs of snow & I got 1 tiny dent in the rear window frame
Took me like a week to clean the snow back there up!
74DartSport
has asparagus pee
When did you get snow? We got nothing here.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
That's what happened about 2 or 3 years ago, was prepping to avoid a rerun!
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
built a rack for the truck out of hitch stock..went to idaho to chase down a sweet deal on a MASSIVE shop extension....load was fine..till i went above 40 and got spooked...took a corner SUPER slow.....yeah NO, had to get a 27ft penske and trailer then unload the truck load it into the bigger truck and drive truck n trailer home...still a solid deal just less so after more fuel and rental
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Took the Delta faucet apart in the tub, used lime remover and a wirebrush on the passages, turned the water on with the cartridges out, but it didn't help much if any. I don't understand what could be wrong - it's as simple as it could be, pipe to faucet, cartridge allows water to pass from one side to the other (or not). The faucet itself is just a brass casting with the only actual parts in it being the cartridge. Old school. There are no small passages or screens in the cartridge that could clog up.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Look at the faucet's feed inlet rather than the output side. It also might be worth a gander at the output fitting of the water heater, although with that you'd have a pressure drop across the board. Then again, you don't notice the pressure drop as much at a faucet due to its aerator, which itself acts like a pressure regulator to some extent.
I got fat during the holidays. Well, fatter.
So, I have to work on that.
I’m also looking into renting some storage to make room to work on stuff around here.
I have a shit ton of boxes that take up way too much room. I have to keep them though as they are for the nerd equipment that I use for work. Eventually, I will have to return the gear for newer stuff and I need the boxes to do that.
I could flatten them, but they are full of packaging anyway. So, I wouldn't gain much.
I’m also trying to figure out how to get work to cover some of the cost of the rental.
Plus, I’m going to move car parts out of my way - hopefully in an organized manner that will allow me to pull them back out, work on them, and assemble/install. The idea is to try to consolidate the piles of parts back into assemblies and/or on the car itself.
As for what I‘ve done recently: odds and ends around the house. Plumbing stuff. Scoping out cabling runs through the house. Goofing around with guitar gear.
I just slapped together a bunch of gain pedals on a board. No good reason for it other than fun.
All REVV pedals,except for the Alex Lifeson By-Tor drive.
I turned them all on at once and ran them through my REVV G120 MK III, and out into a pair of 2000W FRFR powered speakers.
It squealed. LOL!
A lot.
I was able to tame the volume down enough to sit in front of the speakers, but with all of them on, the noise was just ridiculous. I’m going to work my noise gate into the signal chain to see if it helps enough.
Then I might add some more gain pedals to the board.
To be honest though, the Tilt Boost and the Tilt Overdrive into the amp was my favourite.
All of these do stack well, one or two at a time, and that’s the point - to play through different combinations.
So, I have to work on that.
I’m also looking into renting some storage to make room to work on stuff around here.
I have a shit ton of boxes that take up way too much room. I have to keep them though as they are for the nerd equipment that I use for work. Eventually, I will have to return the gear for newer stuff and I need the boxes to do that.
I could flatten them, but they are full of packaging anyway. So, I wouldn't gain much.
I’m also trying to figure out how to get work to cover some of the cost of the rental.
Plus, I’m going to move car parts out of my way - hopefully in an organized manner that will allow me to pull them back out, work on them, and assemble/install. The idea is to try to consolidate the piles of parts back into assemblies and/or on the car itself.
As for what I‘ve done recently: odds and ends around the house. Plumbing stuff. Scoping out cabling runs through the house. Goofing around with guitar gear.
I just slapped together a bunch of gain pedals on a board. No good reason for it other than fun.
All REVV pedals,except for the Alex Lifeson By-Tor drive.
I turned them all on at once and ran them through my REVV G120 MK III, and out into a pair of 2000W FRFR powered speakers.
It squealed. LOL!
A lot.
I was able to tame the volume down enough to sit in front of the speakers, but with all of them on, the noise was just ridiculous. I’m going to work my noise gate into the signal chain to see if it helps enough.
Then I might add some more gain pedals to the board.
To be honest though, the Tilt Boost and the Tilt Overdrive into the amp was my favourite.
All of these do stack well, one or two at a time, and that’s the point - to play through different combinations.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Why am I not surprised? Seven gain preamp stages will do that, especially if (when) the actual preamp and the powered speakers have gain of their own.
Have you ever checked out Elliot Sound Products' website? He has some DIY electric-guitar projects (reverb, tremolo, amp, etc.) that are customizable. He sells circuit boards for most of it, and it's up to the end user to gather and assemble the parts, as well as come up with an enclosure. He's not some fly-by-night dude; the site's been around 25 years and he clearly knows his stuff (he's an engineer). Some of the projects are available as partially-completed modules as well. Cool stuff... an easy site in which to get lost if you enjoy audio projects.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
There's nothing to the input. Seriously.
The hot's on the right side from there, the water comes in on the right side, passes through the cartridge, goes out the left side. It's 1/2 copper from where it sweats into the brass, from there to the new PEX. It's so simple it's beautiful.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
It's definitely simpler than mine, which is a threaded affair and a bit of a pain in the ass.
I'd still eyeball the water-heater outlet. I didn't realize there was an issue with mine until the water at the faucets was at a trickle. Re-plumbed the whole hot-water side of my house because of one fitting. In fairness, because of the butchery that was my plumbing--yours was the artful work of a craftsman by comparison--I didn't find that until the very end, because there was no way to remove the fitting without cutting pipe. Prior to my intervention, the hot side of my plumbing was comprised of PVC, CPVC, black iron, copper, galvanized, ABS, and I think maybe bamboo. If ol' Ken could've managed gun-drilled broomsticks I've no doubt he would've.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
BTW Gina noted that the hot side flow was compromised when it was flowing without the cartridges. Did I mention that already? Anyway.
The HWT is what kept me from doing a ground up. That's where the 1/2" crap starts, so to run a full 3/4" trunk I'd have to replumb the tank.
That's complicated by being in a cinderblock garage area, so that means I'd be drilling and tapconning boards and brackets to the wall there. I just said no because it wasn't broken.
The HWT is what kept me from doing a ground up. That's where the 1/2" crap starts, so to run a full 3/4" trunk I'd have to replumb the tank.
That's complicated by being in a cinderblock garage area, so that means I'd be drilling and tapconning boards and brackets to the wall there. I just said no because it wasn't broken.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
BBB, now you have me scratching my head?
1/2 lines should be more than adequate, is it only one room with the problem or everywhere?
My house is all 1/2" & before restrictors in every piece you buy the only problem was if someone flushed or started the washing machine while in the shower?
Now you hardly notice the difference the shower is restricted so much.
& I still have bundy's furgerson toilets in the house. (old full tank jobs)
1/2 lines should be more than adequate, is it only one room with the problem or everywhere?
My house is all 1/2" & before restrictors in every piece you buy the only problem was if someone flushed or started the washing machine while in the shower?
Now you hardly notice the difference the shower is restricted so much.
& I still have bundy's furgerson toilets in the house. (old full tank jobs)
Cool. I hadn’t heard of ESP before.
I’ve been hooked up with a bunch of other sites that do similar - including providing boards where one has to gather parts and enclosures and everything.
guitarpcb, guitarmania, madbean.
That reminds me. I have a shit ton of those to build.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
It's only one faucet, and it's not the last one on the run. The actual last faucet has plenty of flow. The PEX ends about 6' or so from the faucet, with copper the rest of the way to the faucets/WC.
In the photo above, that is fed from a 18-20" riser from a T, all copper. At bottom, one side brings water, the other goes to the lav where there is plentiful flow. So it kinda sorta has to be plugged up at the T or at the elbow job at the top where the pipe joins the fixture..
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b-body-bob
Well-known member
Thanks to the wiring in this room (AFAICT) all of my pedals buzz. I've got one expensive one here that isn't usuable at all (Catalinbread SabbraCadabra). I thought about buying an power adapter that is really a rechargeable battery but didn't follow through. I just quit trying to use them.
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
It's a MAN'S sound...
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I really like ESP's site, but a big issue I have with it is power supplies. Virtually every project seems to require low AC voltage, i.e. ±15 (or 25, or 47)VAC, which means building the power supply too. That doesn't excite me much. Plus, some of the projects I'd like to build, I'd want for a 12VDC environment. Regardless, I enjoy the theory and explanations, the debunking of audio myths, etc. that I read along the way.
You don't have to replumb all the way to the tank. Just have a look at that fitting. If you have to cut pipe at the water heater to do so, so be it--just stay at 1/2" in that area so you don't have to mess with the wall. You'd only need to replace what, 6" or so to see if that fitting is plugging? My water heater was replaced in the mid/late 1990s; by 2007 the outlet fitting was nearly a cork. That's probably the #1 spot in the hot side where hard water deposits are going to form.
It sounds like you've got ground issues, either a loop or a float. It's gotta be something relatively simple, if well-hidden. Anything audio-related should be natively well-isolated from AC mains "hum" (60Hz) so the natural frequency of the wall outlet shouldn't be an issue.
You may know some or all of the following, but for those unawares:
If the pedals and amp are 3-prong cords they need to be in a grounded outlet. No "3-to-2" adapters, in other words. That should eliminate any ground loop in the equipment. If not, pull the outlet cover plate and make sure there's actually a ground wire connected to the outlet. People cut corners; I know of at least one person who switched out a 2-prong for a 3 so their whatever would fit, but no ground connection was made.
If you've got a float, you need to find out where it is.
First thing to check is your patch cords, and the jacks to which they connect. Jack inspection requires disassembly, but patch cords are easily-enough tested by swapping (unless they're all bad). My home stereo has a patch cord running about 25' to my PC for use as a music source. If I unplug that cord, the stereo hums. It's because the ground circuit of the receiver's input jack is floating. That hum is exacerbated by the fact that now the L/R wires have become giant antennae for EMI. Make no mistake, it's loud. Scares the shit outta the dog. Turns out shielding only works when it's grounded on both ends. Weird, huh?
On 3-prong AC cords, assuming the outlet is grounded the obvious check is whether the ground is connected inside the case of the unit. If they use 2-prong cords, I would expect they have a polarized plug. Funny thing: polarized plugs do matter, especially in audio equipment. Equipment with polarized plugs use the neutral line as their "ground". If the outlet (or cord) isn't wired correctly, your "ground plane" is now cycling 60 times per second. HUMMMMM. In some older houses, or ones built quickly for max profit, attention wasn't paid to which side of the outlet was hot and which was neutral. Your refrigerator, hair dryer, and TV don't care.
In all cases, you definitely want to plug any interconnected audio gear (pedal, amp, preamp) into the same circuit of the house, ideally the same outlet if possible. Otherwise you could be on two different legs of the 220V lines, which will be out of phase and potentially create an issue.
If you have a mixture of balanced (XLR) and unbalanced (RCA, 1/4" TRS, etc.) well, that's a whole 'nother discussion.