tiny...aka 1958 lloyd

yeah but it will allow me to mount the master inside the dash, mount the pedals where I am comfortable and have no crap hanging into the engine bay.....as well as no obstruction for the power windshield

both times ive seen one "used" when i didnt have the $$$ go for about 125-150$ with masters......there REALY common on alot of race cars....anyone got any oval track cras laying around they can check?....tilton, afco, wilwood, coleman, howe
 
well picked up a few small scraps of 18 guage so i can do some skin work..also managed to find 1 8 foot and 1 4 foot piece of 1.5x.120 round tube to see if i can bend it without kinking it and.....SUCSESS!!!!!!.....the yard will have me some 20foot sticks in mid week at 40$ each...calculated weight of 40 feet of .120 is about 70lbs....70lbs for a FULL cage...i can live with that(i need about 4 feet over 40 feet)

anyway i was inspecting my progress and eyeballing some stuff and cleaning some welds....at the front of the car there used to be a sheetmetal rail that ran from the front rails up to the cowl and into the window pillars....i have been trying to decide how i wanted to remove and replace it..after some long inspection removeing and replaceing was pretty much out of the question due to alot of inaccessable areas and the way it ties into the fram rails..simply made more sense to leave it be and tie it into the current front end tube frame id built....sooo with some marks trimming and trial and error fitting i came up with these small triangulations over them and welded to them as seen in the pic's..should also help support the fairly weak(or so im told) shock mounts a bit more....this thing is getting SUPER STIFF...should do killer on a track should it get the chance

the next pics are a little hard to understand...the transaxle retains the clutch and flywheel...sooo its a little portly and badly proportioned ...not to mention somewhat in the way of where i want to put the seats....sooooo im after ideas of how to re-configure this area as well as figuireing out how to get the seats where I want them
 

Attachments

  • 1-Picture 137.jpg
    1-Picture 137.jpg
    102 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 138.jpg
    1-Picture 138.jpg
    109.4 KB · Views: 10
  • 1-Picture 141.jpg
    1-Picture 141.jpg
    98.2 KB · Views: 12
  • 1-Picture 143.jpg
    1-Picture 143.jpg
    64.4 KB · Views: 10
after talking with resto a bit on body mounts, shims, body panel adjustment, etc, etc...i came up with these...should keep me setup for the slightest deviation in panel alignment

im also re-wroking the ENTIRE rear primary suspension mount due to a need for more space as well as i felt the sheetmetal frame work was rubish...so im going to replace the sheetmetal mount with 3x1x.120 box tubeing

resto if you pop in ..look at the last pic..i was thinking about cutting that mount off and makeing a 2 bolt adjustment out of it so it could slide up down forward back or shimmed in/out...atm its tacked on the front corner of the wheelwell retaining the stock measurement from the lloyds chassis
 

Attachments

  • 1-Picture 146.jpg
    1-Picture 146.jpg
    111.3 KB · Views: 10
  • 1-Picture 147.jpg
    1-Picture 147.jpg
    95 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 148.jpg
    1-Picture 148.jpg
    91.4 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 149.jpg
    1-Picture 149.jpg
    102.1 KB · Views: 8
  • 1-Picture 151.jpg
    1-Picture 151.jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 11
  • 1-Picture 152.jpg
    1-Picture 152.jpg
    61.4 KB · Views: 11
  • 1-Picture 154.jpg
    1-Picture 154.jpg
    83.7 KB · Views: 14
a few more steps forward on the chassis bracing..TOTAL redesign of the rear chassis cross member to make space for the seats...this meant carefully and slowly holding the chassis still and the rear suspension..then removing the old BULKY cross member and then making a new one from scratch..re-used the spacer blocks and the nuts but welded thrm into the 1x3x.120 box tube...
then tied it into the rear and front rails as well as my new rocker tube

tomarro ill grab some more steel and order up a sheet of 18guage and do the other side...sometime next week ill start laying the floor pans and the fill panels for the rear fenders
 

Attachments

  • 1-Picture 162.jpg
    1-Picture 162.jpg
    114.6 KB · Views: 11
  • 1-Picture 167.jpg
    1-Picture 167.jpg
    122.6 KB · Views: 11
  • 1-Picture 168.jpg
    1-Picture 168.jpg
    108.6 KB · Views: 11
well nothing real special cept a walk thru of how i did the passenger side transaxle mounting crossmember

if you havnt figured it out by now...the first side i do (on everything) is a test run to prove my own ideas...then i do the walk thru detailed pic's when i do the reamining side

anyway the old crosmmeber is you look back a few pics was this HUGE tube of thin sheetmetal and was a major problem as it blocked my seating abilitys ....i choped it down to the mounting points then cut out the spacer block and nuts..choped the block down a bit to fit inside of the 3x1 tube and cut holes out for the nuts..drilled holes in the side of the tube to weld the block in place and welded the nuts in and welded the tube to the rocker rail.....more pic's in about an hour..camera took a crap on me and i had to format the disc
 

Attachments

  • 1-Picture 170.jpg
    1-Picture 170.jpg
    108.2 KB · Views: 14
  • 1-Picture 171.jpg
    1-Picture 171.jpg
    106.6 KB · Views: 14
  • 1-Picture 172.jpg
    1-Picture 172.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 13
  • 1-Picture 173.jpg
    1-Picture 173.jpg
    82.2 KB · Views: 13
  • 1-Picture 174.jpg
    1-Picture 174.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 13
ok camera charged just enuf..disc empty

welded up some braces for the swaybar mounts ..they should be plenty solid now..by far more solid than factory as you can see they simply floated out there on a floor pan

finished up the drivers side tranny cross and heres the step by steps..admitedly some ugly welds..ill clean em up tomaro..to late to make that kind of noise tonight

the transaxle shot..that craptastic mangle is the STOCK shift linkage..you can see why im going to go cable shift
 

Attachments

  • 1-Picture 175.jpg
    1-Picture 175.jpg
    107.8 KB · Views: 10
  • 1-Picture 176.jpg
    1-Picture 176.jpg
    93.3 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 177.jpg
    1-Picture 177.jpg
    113.4 KB · Views: 12
  • 1-Picture 178.jpg
    1-Picture 178.jpg
    119.3 KB · Views: 10
  • 1-Picture 179.jpg
    1-Picture 179.jpg
    113.6 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 180.jpg
    1-Picture 180.jpg
    87.7 KB · Views: 10
  • 1-Picture 181.jpg
    1-Picture 181.jpg
    103.9 KB · Views: 12
2 last shots

1 basic floor shot...the other with a tape measure for referance...trying to figure out if i need to run beads in the front floor pans
 

Attachments

  • 1-Picture 182.jpg
    1-Picture 182.jpg
    90.1 KB · Views: 14
  • 1-Picture 183.jpg
    1-Picture 183.jpg
    109.7 KB · Views: 12
Are you priming or rust proofing the insides of the metal pieces you're welding permently in place?
 
ill rust proof when i get there..probably just drill some small holes and use my tiny wand sprayer that i setup...i made a ultra small nozle setup for an undercoating gun...so i only need a hole about 3/8s inch to proof any un-accessable areas..some of the enclosed stuff ill probably never worry about...

we dont salt our roads..it almost never snows so rust on the west coast is so slow its almost non existent ....the "finished" plan for everything but the exterior body is to, rust proof, seam sealer, then top it all off with a rubberized truck bed coating ..both for sound and durability
 
I was thinking of something similar for the Challenger. Some of the stuff got welded shut before I got it prepped. Oops...
 
its easy enuf to drill small holes and hose the insides down...and considering how much would get burnt off when welding its probably better done AFTER welding anyway
 
I just got a chance to skim through this thread and I must say this is one bad ass project! Looking good my friend.

So, I have an idea for you. I think that when all is said and done and it's time for paint, flat black should be your color and there should be a white skull and crossbones on the hood. The radio should play nothing but Slayer.
 
I just got a chance to skim through this thread and I must say this is one bad ass project! Looking good my friend.

So, I have an idea for you. I think that when all is said and done and it's time for paint, flat black should be your color and there should be a white skull and crossbones on the hood. The radio should play nothing but Slayer.

i gotta say like how you think. if this where my project i would totally blow by some playground blasting reign in blood with flames shooting out of the exhaust pipes = P
 
there is a difference between evil and bad ass.. we're talkin bad ass.. it i were talking evil, it would've been six feet under.
 
there is a difference between evil and bad ass.. we're talkin bad ass.. it i were talking evil, it would've been six feet under.
haha no joke dude you are cool in my book :bravo: i guess thats why when i drove around in my food escort blasting six feet under and little old women and ghetto thugs in their impallas stopped next to me and stared lol.. regardless looking at that motor in that little ass car id say 69.5 is gonna have a rocket :gaga:
 
a rocket indeed!!!!...i ran the power to weight #'s on a guess of 1800LBS wich im 95% positive i can actualy get it closer to 1600..and with a STOCK HP its got a power to weight ratio better than 95% of ALL porsches, most vettes, bmw's(amg6 is a hair better in power to weight)....it actualy shows up as better than just about everything out there except for "super cars" aka lambo, ferarri(its actualy better than a few of em) mclaren, ..you get the idea......its VERY motivating to know that it should out brake and out handle damn neer eveything localy

course im "planing" on once down most likely swaping out the engine for the one thats in the gtv6 (the 2.5 in the gtv6 is an ANIMAL i only wish i knew its background besides the OBVIOUS cams)unless i can find a 3.0l for cheep(and have cash in hand to grab it) wich will bump me into the 300+ hp range...where ill be knocking on the back door of the super cars...course i could also look at going SC'ed for about 3k$ wich nets me 400+ hp on only 10lbs of boost and scream into the 8000rpm+ redline shifts while running 89 octane fuel......supercars be damned
 
well yesterday i spent mostly chaseing welds..obscure angles and laying on my back to see most of em...stuff i had intended to wait till later and strip the car to bare and hang it from the ceiling

anyway i welded "most" of em up and i also ran a "spine" down the center of the car..in an attempt to chase out the remaining chassis flex...i cut out my "support" centerline brace and it snapped back 1 inch telling me i had HUGE flex issue to chase out...so in went the spine....i jacked up the car and centered out the level of it and fabed and welded in the spine...the result is now that i only have 1/4 inch of sag/flex...HUGE improvement imo..as we are talking 1/4inch from end to end of the car.....still planning a cage to chase out that remaining flex

as well as the "spine" i also welded a plate into one of the triangles up front to "finish" it..will do the other side tomaro

next up, start on the floor pans

well shit i cant upload any attatchments ...sites FUBAR atm...sending pm

lets try again
 

Attachments

  • 1-Picture 193.jpg
    1-Picture 193.jpg
    76.4 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 194.jpg
    1-Picture 194.jpg
    104 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 195.jpg
    1-Picture 195.jpg
    108.3 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 196.jpg
    1-Picture 196.jpg
    109.9 KB · Views: 10
  • 1-Picture 197.jpg
    1-Picture 197.jpg
    93.2 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 198.jpg
    1-Picture 198.jpg
    113.3 KB · Views: 9
  • 1-Picture 199.jpg
    1-Picture 199.jpg
    106.1 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top