tiny...aka 1958 lloyd

[69.5CUDA]

id actualy given up on finding a "oe" radiator that suits my size restrictions to which 16x28 is scrapeing the body to fit....certainly the rad in the valiant is something like 20x28?....i REFUSE to even look at anything with plastic parts..which eliminates 75% of everything in the local yards down to just "trucks" to which they all have big bastards...so if you know of anything specific..point me at em!!!....ive got an OE alfa as well as bmw and volvo fill n catch units so that asspect was pre planned and the alfa heater hose layout pretty much requires it

no shock on the toyota actualy as ive seen some of the weirdest shit thats been imported over the past 40 years that leaves ya scrtaching your head

on the exhaust i was actualy looking to use the same mandrel rig i have for bending the cage tubes..but just get the right die....and probably the "insert" which helps further keep them from crushing...i figure ive got atleast 6 cars in line that need pipes..so its a sound investment to be able to bend my own...so im thinking 58 ford, 67 fish, ramcharger, long box truck, another alfa etc..question becomes whats the "ideal" size to jump into...i feel like 2.5 is "overkill" but accapetable in most cases? or was it 2.25?

 

[69.5CUDA]

on the ITB's...fully aware of the tuning requirements to...some extent, but ive also got a "ringer" for the tuning as this engine has 100% independently adjustable cams IE there is no keyway!..so its gotta be tuned by someone who knows these engines...HOWEVER i do want to make it as easy as possible..less time on the dyno means less expense PERIOD

the ITB's idle control is a joke..and in reality they are more like 2 TB's IE you have a pair of castings with a single shaft and 3 throats n plates..so you cant idle tune each one.....i was planing on running a vac line off each one as a more "fluid" idle control so a vac and can and sensor added to it wouldnt even be an issue..how big of a can should i be looking at?..and even more over..can i still idle control off vac bleed AND tune? or is that just going to fight itself?...and how big of a port should i install?

the other thing i have sketched out is to turn the underside of the hood into a plenum box that "seals" down over the ITBs so that i can get more sensor input and well...real filtering..theres a "slot" over the radiator opening at the hood edge about 2 inches wide neerly full width of the hood..perfect for fresh air intake, then you have that huge budlged nose that can become a chamber for a slide in big flat filter and plenum effect

as far as length vs rpm band...these alfa motors want to rev regardless of a set of 40mm dellorotos or stock plenum they will happily sing along at the 7k+ rev limter so if i end up short and lowering the band...im more than ok with that LOL...some of the race engines..including one from the same exact batch as this one was tuned and redline found to be 8k+ while later itterations were getting into 9k..no thanks..i dont like spinning my bike engines that fast!

on the plus side...i have the brain and tune from the car the engine previously lived in..so i not only have a baseline..i have something that was DRIVEN and tuned...tho..it wasnt tuned by who should have tuned it...so i expect it to be off..in alot of areas...one of the big tuning probelms it suffered wa sthe need for a plenum box which was made one for each bank, it was crude but aperantly helped, the bigger issue it had was tune fluctuation due to temps...i dont know if that was humidity, air temp engine temp or even metal expansion...

the only changes ive made to the engine are as follows....
smaller headers(they were WAY TO BIG)
clutch /flywheel...my clutch is out back now not mated to the engine...overall rotational mass will be higher as its constantly spinning the driveline
itb plenum box design change..as i said the original setup was poorly designed mostly due to a lack of hood clearance...i have all the space in the world by comparison
currently the trumpets are the same, but they got messed up when the fire spread so there not as "round n smooth" as they once were..id also like them to be "straight" not 90 deg curved .....i have matching size and length runners that are straight

i whole heartedly expect the tune to be "off" by a good margin but i assume it should also be a solid foundation....hell i even had the engine running before i pulled it just to set my mind at ease about using it...no radiator so i only ran it for a few mins, long enough to start to warm up and the idle to smooth out..rev it a few times and shut her down

ive got a few vids of it running before the fire ill see if i can get something posted

 

[69.5CUDA]

welp...after exhausting every link..every option every shop in a 500 mile radius...one of my guys at the local orielys was bsing with me..good guy ive been dealing with for a long time..got bumped to management on the commercial side...he gave me a couple leads to chase down...mind you this guy saved the books he could and still uses em!
i chased his leads of which all camp up empty except didnt...1 was for a shop that does suspension tuning and rollcages..high end race car shit...not drag or circle full on road course and ralley...talk about jaw dropping walking in that place
the owner gave me a lead i chased up..old school dude who packed it all in and moved it all home..local!!!!!! like sub10 mins away local, he has everything to do everything all on a lil residential side street in an unassuming house....he will be my goto for all machine shop stuff untill he retires!!!!!

made a call went over and damn..there aint much walkin space but holy hell he's got the equipment and a bunch of shit mid build..brought my flywheel with me..and..there was instantly an issue...the crank hole was too small even for his custom made shaft for his machine as he often balances motorcycle stuff

with a moment of complete defeat he said you get me a crank to mount it to and i can still do it, but we need a crank just to get it mounted in the machine(as a note the hole in the flywheel is UNDER 1 inch)
not wanting to crack open any of my spare alfa engines.i pop on c-list and facebook..found a guy localy with a complete 2.5 sans block and heads..100$ got me a spare flywheel, crank, rods, slugs, both old and new balancer(early 2.5 is double v belt late 2.5/3.0 is v and serp) and a pipe of other actualy usefull bits...but the big thing is i have a stick for balancing..even more so i saved my guy some time by having a rod n slug for bobweighting as well as having an OE 2.5 balancer AND flywheel for the 2.5 crank so he can zero out the crank and get the balance off the 3.8 fly

so now i wait for him to cycle it thru...but insead of just balanceing a new flywheel to the 3.8 from a 2.5 he is balancing me up both the 2.5 balancers to match the 3.8..since the balancer i have is SERIOUSLY shaved..its the "new" 3.0 unit with the tone ring but the serp area completely milled off of it

with that said...and some free time.....ill actualy be able to start getting forward movement again

for reference...the 3.8 started life as a 4cam heads and 3.0 block..but was installed in standard clutch on engine configuration....which..cant be used in a transaxle clutch in trans application...but all of that is ONLY a flywheel issue, in fact the 3.0 was never intended to be mated to a transmission directly unless in a FWD application

 

[69.5CUDA]

with some new found motivation....

im looking at engine hardware, initialy i was going to clean and re-plate what i have...but...i dont think i want to..alot of its missmatched and while ive a few buckets from various buys and could make up a set .....id still have to clean and re-plate it all..and my replating shop evaporated....

so what i want is gold hardware, yellow gold zinc or even something more uniform like titanium gold plated stainless?..hell i even found brass at a reasonable price.....

honestly i need some input...on what to run
block, heads, valve covers, coil pack covers is all cast aluminum
valve covers will be painted body color matched with polished fin work, im litteraly looking for pan and cover hardware...mostly m6-1.0 in various lengths..pan is a 2piece unit

im leaning tward socket head as thats what the later engines ran when new and looked stunning untill the zinc aged...which is why im kinda leaning tward the titanium gold plating....but also why im leaning tward socket head as its harder to show damage

my primary concern is being able to work on shit without it showing wear, as well as general strength...as i dont want anything snappin off easy...not that any of it requires much torque

so by all means toss your input..

heres a nice referance