tiny...aka 1958 lloyd
- Thread starter 69.5CUDA
- Start date
69.5CUDA
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well ive got the brake and got the bender...bad news is every attempt to bend with the bender = kinked tubbing !@#$...wanted to cage the whole car with 1.5 round .095(nhra, imca, ect ect approved for under 2000 lbs)....my guess is that im going to have to HEAT the tubbing to bend it sooooooo ive changed my game plan a bit for the sake of some progress....started playing with the brake and bending random sheet metal getting a feel for where a bend needs to start to come out EXACTLY where ya want it
anyway heres what i got done today...its all 1-1/2 x.095 SQUARE tube..still need to clean the welds ...I HATE THIS WELDER!!!!!
...and am desperatly looking for parts for my old one...and will attempt to re-wrap the old coil assembly
anyway heres todays work
tomaro ill probably start building the firwall
anyway heres what i got done today...its all 1-1/2 x.095 SQUARE tube..still need to clean the welds ...I HATE THIS WELDER!!!!!
...and am desperatly looking for parts for my old one...and will attempt to re-wrap the old coil assemblyanyway heres todays work
tomaro ill probably start building the firwall
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68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
The point is to give the tubing structeral strength to prevent kinking at the bends. For small tubes a short piece of steel cable works perfect. If you could find a length of steel cable that will fit without binding, that would be ideal.
Same principle as the spring in the radiator hose to prevent collapsing.:huh:
Same principle as the spring in the radiator hose to prevent collapsing.:huh:
69.5CUDA
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work progresses....while cutting with the plasma yesterday...i melted open the PLASTIC?!?!?!? fuel line and had a HUGE puddle of gas on the floor..decided it wasn't wise to proceeded with plasma cutting ....back today puddle dried..but latent gas soaked floor i did manage to ignite a few small spots.....
XL i see why you started a fire in the dart i just cant see how you manage to get a BIG fire....i HATE RUBBER UNDERCOAT..it stinks it burns the eyes...but having the plasma cutter at hand i just blow the shit out if im welding or cutting
anyway my LOL frame rail connectors are in..all 13 inches of them :giggedy:..next today im planning on cutting the rockers off and adding in my 2x2x.090 square tube to replace the rockers and extend the frame out to close to the edge of the car
XL i see why you started a fire in the dart i just cant see how you manage to get a BIG fire....i HATE RUBBER UNDERCOAT..it stinks it burns the eyes...but having the plasma cutter at hand i just blow the shit out if im welding or cutting
anyway my LOL frame rail connectors are in..all 13 inches of them :giggedy:..next today im planning on cutting the rockers off and adding in my 2x2x.090 square tube to replace the rockers and extend the frame out to close to the edge of the car
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69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
lil more
the driver exterior frame rail is in and solid and tied into the front tubes and firewall tubes......still need to tie the rear of it to the unibody rail and shock tower..but the center unibody rail is fully welded to it..car is STIFF...set the door on the new rail and the lines are FLAWLESS!!!! :giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy:..she is more square than when built......once i tie into the rear uni-rail and towwer i can cut out all of my "support" tubes that were only put in to keep the car from flexing while working it.....also planing on adding another bar to the front end of the side rail to the unibody rail......EVERYTHING from the towwer and firewall up will be round tube
the driver exterior frame rail is in and solid and tied into the front tubes and firewall tubes......still need to tie the rear of it to the unibody rail and shock tower..but the center unibody rail is fully welded to it..car is STIFF...set the door on the new rail and the lines are FLAWLESS!!!! :giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy:..she is more square than when built......once i tie into the rear uni-rail and towwer i can cut out all of my "support" tubes that were only put in to keep the car from flexing while working it.....also planing on adding another bar to the front end of the side rail to the unibody rail......EVERYTHING from the towwer and firewall up will be round tube
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69.5CUDA
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yeah i had to brace the hell out of it when i took 20 inches out of the milano to shorten it down to the lloyds 78 inch wheel base.....once braced i was able to remove the setup off my jig without it flexing...as i build in some good structure and a cage the braceing comes out...all of my front temp braces are already removed as they were replaced with perminant tube/cage work
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
well aside from my fire last night...i managed to be quite productive
finished getting my rocker rails 90% welded in ..still need to cap them and a few other minor connection points
got my rear shock tower brace welded in and tied the towwers to the rocker rails
changed how the body is temp welded to the chassis
added a new temp spine thats out of the way so i can start cage work
removed ALL other temp braceing
basicaly as it sits its VERY solid with about 1/8th inch of flex from shock tower to shock tower..cage will kill that entirely....but to be safe i put in a center spine to keep the flex in check till its caged
finished getting my rocker rails 90% welded in ..still need to cap them and a few other minor connection points
got my rear shock tower brace welded in and tied the towwers to the rocker rails
changed how the body is temp welded to the chassis
added a new temp spine thats out of the way so i can start cage work
removed ALL other temp braceing
basicaly as it sits its VERY solid with about 1/8th inch of flex from shock tower to shock tower..cage will kill that entirely....but to be safe i put in a center spine to keep the flex in check till its caged
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69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
slooooooooow going..its bloody cold outside
i finished chipping out all of the tar/floor coating and have started trimming back the last remaining 10% of fat on the car..cleaned her out vac'd the shop floor and cleaned some welds...... by the time im done the ONLY way to lose any weight on the car will be to make the body out of carbon fiber(fiberglass panels would weigh as much or more than the very THIN steel), use poly carb for windows, carbon fiber di-dion tube(read rearend at 1500$+), aluminum drive shaft, and almost unobtainable aluminum lower control arms.....odds are ill end up with poly carb windows anyway due to costs and i need to swap the wheels out for a set of 13lb mag/alu hybrids that ive got.......some figures ive been seeing put me in a fairly safe zone and in fact leaves me with a slight possibility of actually going under my target weight of 1800lbs fueled and ready..i may actually end up closer to the 1600 mark but i think thats wishful thinking :toot:
im cheating on some of the body/cage tubing..anything thats just a "tie" bar between non critical areas is using .065-.095 tubing partly to save a little weight but also most ppl wouldn't need/want to even put these braces in...i want them!..like the supports for the rear shock towers down to the outer frame rails...the actual cage will be .095-.120 which is to spec with nhra/imca and every local track be it oval, road, or drag
ignore the tube in the center of the car...i have 1/4 of frame flex without it as ive not finished tieing a few things..so i put it in to make sure everything stayed straight and true....even still 1/4 inch without the body fully hard mounted and a cage not installed is doing pretty damn good imo
i finished chipping out all of the tar/floor coating and have started trimming back the last remaining 10% of fat on the car..cleaned her out vac'd the shop floor and cleaned some welds...... by the time im done the ONLY way to lose any weight on the car will be to make the body out of carbon fiber(fiberglass panels would weigh as much or more than the very THIN steel), use poly carb for windows, carbon fiber di-dion tube(read rearend at 1500$+), aluminum drive shaft, and almost unobtainable aluminum lower control arms.....odds are ill end up with poly carb windows anyway due to costs and i need to swap the wheels out for a set of 13lb mag/alu hybrids that ive got.......some figures ive been seeing put me in a fairly safe zone and in fact leaves me with a slight possibility of actually going under my target weight of 1800lbs fueled and ready..i may actually end up closer to the 1600 mark but i think thats wishful thinking :toot:
im cheating on some of the body/cage tubing..anything thats just a "tie" bar between non critical areas is using .065-.095 tubing partly to save a little weight but also most ppl wouldn't need/want to even put these braces in...i want them!..like the supports for the rear shock towers down to the outer frame rails...the actual cage will be .095-.120 which is to spec with nhra/imca and every local track be it oval, road, or drag
ignore the tube in the center of the car...i have 1/4 of frame flex without it as ive not finished tieing a few things..so i put it in to make sure everything stayed straight and true....even still 1/4 inch without the body fully hard mounted and a cage not installed is doing pretty damn good imo
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gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
How long before you can finally take it out for a spin?
69.5CUDA
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...you mean "done" wise or do you mean a dirty shake down?
basicaly i need a brake pedal setup(see below), a mount for said pedal(see cage) and to finish lopping off the rear cross member and re-fabbing it for seat clearance, and a shortened drive shaft..at that point its capable of being driven...tho i wouldnt want to go far LOL
for a more "finished" setup i need to fab the dash(scraped the original design), bend and weld the cage, wire up and fab the new console, mod up the shifter to my likeing(heavily modified neon shifter setup and cables) make tabs to more securely mount the body to the cage(the "stock" body mounts suck but i am re-useing them for alignment reasons) widen and hang the doors
"sounds" like alot of work..but if i i could bend the tubeing without kinking it(i may be forced to run .120) and once it warms up(shop is NOT HEATED!!! and poorly insulated with 1/2 foam board)..i suspect about a months worth of work befor i do a "test" run with it..obviously ive got alot of mods in mind for it but most of the realy hard work is behind me
i either need someone to find me a "cheep" brake/clutch setup EG tilton reverse swing style or find some $$$ to buy one off ebay..there quite common on circle track cars
69.5CUDA;196726i either need someone to find me a "cheep" brake/clutch setup EG tilton reverse swing style or find some $$$ to buy one off ebay..there quite common on circle track cars[/quote said: