Signet-ficant Other

[Dr.Jass]

"One of the fluourescent light bulbs on the shop ceiling is a bit dim. I can see it from here."

:doh:

 

[restoman]

Where did you get the frame connectors? US Car Tool?

As I've mentioned before, there is no concern replacing a front rail without the floors in place - it's actually much easier. As long as the rockers, firewall, door posts and roof are intact the main body structure will be much stronger than you think. Stability and accurate measurements will see you through without a hitch.

 

[Dr.Jass]

First things first, of course. We found a small section of the T-bar crossmember that was getting bad, so Stretch marked it for replacement.

"Won't be the last time we section some scrap metal into a bad spot," he remarked.
"Yeah, by the time we're done this car's gonna look like a fuckin' quilt," was my response.




Then it was on to scrape, spray, wire-wheel, grind, etc. to get clean a clean metal substrate to which we could weld.






All kinds of ugly back here...

 

[Dr.Jass]

Where did you get the frame connectors? US Car Tool?

As I've mentioned before, there is no concern replacing a front rail without the floors in place - it's actually much easier. As long as the rockers, firewall, door posts and roof are intact the main body structure will be much stronger than you think. Stability and accurate measurements will see you through without a hitch.

Yes, I bought the US Car Tool connectors through Mancini Racing. They're of excellent quality, I might add. Obviously, some grinding is necessary due to production tolerances and minor difference year-to-year, but most of the spots that require modifications are already marked for you, and the rest is figured out easily enough by holding them in place and marking with a Sharpie. That being said, it would've been a lot less fun without the drive-on hoist.

As far as replacing the rail, Stretchy and I are essentially fearless at this point. We had such a good time yesterday, even with all the tragedy we found, that we're fired up to keep after it. We know what has to be done and have got a good idea of how to do it. After this exercise, and combining his experiences with those Oaklands and my experience with the Challenger's roof, there's no lack of confidence between us that we'll get it handled without much issue.

The long time span between my posts? I was on the phone with Kevin, who works at AMD. While we were talking about the Valiant he offered to set Breeze Auto up as a jobber. Then he entered my order for AMD full-length pans... from home, on a Sunday. :dance:

 

[71ChargerRT]

I need a 4 post lift. Although, at this point anyway, a nice rotisserie with pneumatic tires would be great as well as more handy. All the heavy stuff is already off my car.

That's really not all that bad Doc, I've seen and owned Texas cars that had way more rust issues. The one I presently own is in worse shape.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I need a 4 post lift. Although, at this point anyway, a nice rotisserie with pneumatic tires would be great as well as more handy.

For this particular job, the drive-on was really the way to fly. The car was supported by the suspension, so everything was where it needed to be when the car is sitting at rest... on the starting line... awaiting a 4,000RPM launch.

Final round of yesterday's pictures, with the frame connectors in place, as far as we could get them without the new floors being on hand.












The temporary routing of the fuel and brake lines is such only so that the car could still be driven onto the trailer. Hopefully I'll have another update soon, since she's headed into Stretch's garage, a.k.a. Oakland County, later today if all goes well. He told me a few minutes ago she fired right up this morning after a cold night outdoors, so she's rarin' to go. :dance:

How do you say no to this face?

 

[Dr.Jass]

Oh, yeah, quick product plug: SEM's 40783 Copperweld weld-through primer is the absolute bomb. Balls expensive, mind you ($25+ per can), but miles ahead of anything else I've tried to date. It sprays out a gold color and seems to have much-better conductive properties than even their own grey standard weld-through primer. Use it sparingly, only right at the weld area.

I can't say enough good about either that or the US Car Tool subframe connectors. Both excellent products.

 

[restoman]

DCF bought the US Car Tool connectors for his Charger and all things considered, they fit amazingly well. Nice, heavy gauge steel, they would have fit perfectly had it not been for the previous guy who put the floors in the car.

 

[thrashingcows]

Those frame connects look sweet.....the fit is better then I would have imagined!

I'm still a bit torn between a 4 post hoist, or two post for the shop when I get it built....leaning a bit harder towards a 4 post though.

 

[Stretch]

I'd go with a two post Cow . Most jobs are easier on a two post. If room and finances allow a drive on with 2 pneumatic Jack's down the road would-be ideal.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

 

[TheIronSausage]

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Two post lift with asymmetrical arms, hands down. It may not like your diesel, but 100% of everything else you put on it will be so much easier to work on. The ramps on a four poster only serve to get in the way, and give you something to smash your elbows and wrists into. I would turn down a job at a shop that only had four post lifts.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Stretch and I spent a good part of today pulling the sicks out of the car. There's nothing but a gaping hole where the six-cylinder heart once beat. The next step is to remove the front suspension and K-frame. We're still awaiting the floor pans; AMD's warehouse has been overwhelmed and they're running a few days behind on shipping. Those shipped Friday so they should arrive early in the week, along with the replacement carpet to hide the glaring butchery that will no doubt be the result of our ham-fisted attempt at repairs.

Apologies for the crappy photos. I forgot my camera and all I had was my garbage phone.

Moments after the extraction:






Crime-scene photos. We had the presence of mind to put the slip yoke back in the transmission, but completely forgot about the speedo-cable adapter hole. :doh: There's a lot more oil-dry on the floor than the pictures really show.






Anyone need a Slant Six? Kind of a shame, really. This thing runs like a Rolex. I believe the mileage on the odometer is correct at 44,xxx miles. Fresh tune-up including setting the lash and a brand-new Pertronix Ignitor. Accessories included. It doesn't look like much but it's a very strong engine. Make an offer!

 

[68R/T]

That 225 would be an upgrade for Miss Ugly.

 

[Dr.Jass]

As would that nifty dual exhaust system that's now doing nothing, come to think of it. If you want 'em, come get 'em. For you, they're free as long as you use 'em.

 

[68R/T]

The 225 wouldn't bolt up to my push button trans. One torque converter is a 3-bolt & the other is a 4-bolt, and they won't interchange. The 60-62 904's are unique. And I don't think there's much room on the passenger side for a pipe. :hmmm:

 

[Stretch]

If you want this stuff we will toss it in the truck for our trip down for spring jeffy.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I don't think there's much room on the passenger side for a pipe. :hmmm:

That's what the factory and the guy that bent my pipes both thought. The reverse Y completely avoids the transmission crossmember issue, and the fuel tank has the same offset on later A-bodies as the early ones. That pipe's tricky to bend, but Austin did it exceptionally well.

 

[Dr.Jass]

A scosche more progress today. After getting the steering box out of the way, next step was to get the torsion bars popped, using the tried-and-true prybar method:




Which resulted in not only the torsion bars, but Stretch himself getting popped by the prybar :




K-frame, steering linkage, lower control arms and brakes were next to vacate the engine bay:




Leaving behind a hole big enough to gently remind me of the ex-wife:




Drilled out some of the spotwelds holding the rotten frame rail in place, but not all. There are less than one would think for a frame member, really:





I forgot to get these pics last weekend, but that's the factory plastic wrap used to protect the shiny seat-belt buckles during shipping. The rear seatbelts have literally never been used, or apparently even fished out from behind the seat:






The new floor pans didn't make it here in time for the weekend, so we didn't really get after it like we could've. We also both had a rough work week, so ambition was a little lower than expected, but it's real headway nonetheless. Stay tuned to this Bat-channel for further updates; we'll be installing new suspension at both ends, replacing the brakes and rear axle, and converting the car to a four-speed in the coming weeks as time allows. :dance:

 

[thrashingcows]

Carefully remove those bags and sell them to some crazy "as delivered to the the dealer" restoration guy...

 

[68R/T]

Carefully remove those bags and sell them to some crazy "as delivered to the the dealer" restoration guy...

Truer than you may even realize. And don't forget the before & after pics for proof. :naughty: