I don't think it's the ignition switch, but it certainly doesn't hurt to check.
OK, since one is worn off that can be blue, got lots of blue paints left over!
The correct color for the wiper/washer knob arrow is a very light powder or baby blue, non-metallic.
Any thoughts on why they don't push in all the way?
Not really, but the wiper knob should protrude a little because the washer pump is run by pushing in on it. Try reversing the knobs. The yellow one might go further onto the dimmer shaft than it does the washer shaft, but that's just a "try it & see" experiment. I have nothing to verify that it should or would.
I did have the oil pump out, I'm just leery of screwing something up, next nice day I'll see if it comes up easy if so I'll point it more forward.
If you do, the slot in the pump drive should be pointing at (approximately) the driver's side front intake-manifold bolt. If it's off by a little in either direction, don't sweat it. I doubt the factory did.
Will have my electric hat on the next few nice days trying to get the key to work & a dozen other electric problems to try & sort out.
Did I mention I hate car electric work!!!
I'm almost hoping it's not the ignition switch, tearing into the column scares me.
Reading a bunch of posts about both no reaction from key & that seat belt system, got a few easy things to try before I tear it all apart!
try starting in neutral, if no go try grounding the neutral safety wire at the starter relay.
Some lights were mentioned as going through the seat belt system also, maybe why my dash lights are out?
& then try my new ignition switch, after that all fails I'm lost!
Back when we were neck-deep in that stuff, I tried without success to find a schematic for that module. Since I scarcely know how it works, it's hard to give ideas to try in order to remove it from the system, or at least bypass it. I don't have all the wiring diagrams available to me here, but I do at home somewhere. One thing would be to bypass the seat & seatbelt switches, but if the module's bad that wouldn't really help. The trick, of course, is that we don't know how the prior owner(s) went about bypassing it other than some scary-looking wiring.
Regardless, I'm pretty certain it should run as-is, module-wise.
The first thing I'd do is use check to see if your backup lamps work. They're on the same transmission switch. No reverse lights? It's either the switch or the wiring to/from it. Did you replace the switch? If so, try the old one if it's still lying around.
If the backup lights work, use a test light or DMM at the ground wire at the starter relay. Put one probe on battery +, and probe the brown/yellow wire at the starter relay. With the car in park or neutral, a test light should illuminate or a DMM would show ~12V. If that's not the case, then run a ground wire to the starter relay at the neutral-safety switch connection. See if it starts that way. If it does, it's either the switch itself or the wiring to it. Yes, you can have working reverse lights but no grounding circuit.
Still nothing? Get under the car and check the center pin on the NSS switch. Same test as at the starter relay; it should be grounded in Park or Neutral. If it is, double-check all your wiring to the NSS, including that the plug is 100% engaged on the switch and the mid-harness connector is fully engaged. Make sure the wires in the mid-harness connector are configured correctly (especially if you're using the harness I sent you, which had different colors). Chrysler occasionally switched pin locations for no good reason.
