Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Hmmmm, I didn't take the long off the short, but there does look like a slot for it there!
You guys are the best!
I would have half a car without your help!
 
So I'm looking for the next thing to work on, I figure I'd go under for a while since the tranny mount is in now I can do most of the E-brake cables (still waiting for the shackle bushings)
dug it all out, I finally found the switch for the E-brake pedal.

I'm missing one of the clips (on the upper left) what do you call those I have to locate one?
20231021_125435.jpgI went ahead & clear coated the alternator & dug out the hardware20231021_125545.jpgThe metal spacer seems short, will that insert on the bottom push in when I tighten it up to fill in the gap? 20231021_125712.jpg
 
Time to think about tires, I'm stuck with 14" rally's & I want old school rubber.
would 70 series be the way to go, to they make those in radials?
for cruising not racing!
 
The metal spacer seems short, will that insert on the bottom push in when I tighten it up to fill in the gap?
Yup
Time to think about tires, I'm stuck with 14" rally's & I want old school rubber.
would 70 series be the way to go, to they make those in radials?
for cruising not racing!
Pretty much every tire manufacturer still have them available. But they'll need to be special ordered. And there's always Coker tires, Coker Classic Tires | Classic White Wall Tires | Coker Tire® , for a lot more $$$$
 
bank is already broken, don't need anything crazy, just want daily driver stuff, although it will be far from driven daily!
gotta buy 5 too, that don't help!
 
I'm missing one of the clips (on the upper left) what do you call those I have to locate one?

20231021_125435-jpg.26456
That's a brake hose clip. I know that number by heart: Carlson H1457 (also Dorman HW1457). It's a universal part, not even specific to Chrysler. You should be able to get one locally for less than a dollar.

The metal spacer seems short, will that insert on the bottom push in when I tighten it up to fill in the gap?

20231021_125712-jpg.26458


Tap the spacer bushing in until the spacer's a close, even snug fit. There's a spacer on the back side of it as well so all the force will be on the alternator's mounting ear if you try to pull it in with the bolt. I don't like to stress aluminum like that.

Tires: I'd suggest a P215/70R-14 size. Anything above a 215 is going to be too wide for the rim, and anything below will look very small in diameter. The Cooper Cobra model is probably your best best. BFG Radial T/As look better, but have gotten ungodly expensive. Those are about it for raised white-letter tires. You may be able to find that size in inexpensive off-brand blackwalls, though, or maybe something with a snazzy white stripe. :LOL:
 
could not get that clip on that joint, I finally tried one of the bigger ones that were on the other joints & got that on, then fought to put the small one on a top joint!

Got the ebrake pedal finished, rubber stop, switch & spring & put in the front cable, seems I'm missing more parts, can't locate the tranny mount hook, may end up buying the whole dang kit, another 50 bucks out the window!
inline tube has the kit.
 
Tapped that spacer over & got the alternator in, dug out the belts, everything looks lined up pretty good, short a pulley for the steering pump belt, waiting on the radiator to see what order I assemble the fan & shroud? 20231022_112233.jpg
seems I'm missing a rubber on the rear E brake lines, those were not in the kit! 20231022_123516 - Copy.jpg
 
Do you not have the pulley that was on the engine previously? If it worked then, it'll work now. It doesn't care what type of fan you use.

Assemble the fan to the clutch, then install that along with the pulley now. This is the final installation, so get everything tight. Install and tenion the belts--same deal, you shouldn't need to mess with them again. This is all easier to do with the shroud and radiator out. You've got more room to work, so button up the front of the engine now.
When the radiator gets back put the shroud around the fan, up against the engine. Let it rest on the fan blade. The radiator should have slots rather than holes for the lower bolts, allowing you to pre-install the bolts just loose enough to allow the thickness of the radiator bracket. Slide the radiator onto the lower bolts, install the upper bolts, and tighten all four. At that point, you just pull the shroud forward and fasten it to the radiator.

Trying to install the fan with the shroud installed is an enormous pain in the ass. Save yourself the frustration.
 
misunderstood, I have the pulley, was waiting to figure out the order you just laid out, so now I can go on the fan.
I have to pull my shrouds down & decide it I use that slightly thinner new one or clean up the old, I think it was in decent shape.
I guess that will be tomorrow's project!
 
As I recall, one of them was an original-equipment shroud for your car. That's the one to use. It's designed to work with that fan on that clutch, which means its edge is spaced fore/aft correctly in relation to the blades.
 
I don't remember any kind of grommets on any of the E-brake cables with which I've dealt, but it's been a long time so that's not a definite.
 
Me either on the other car, got Lucky mark was over & had what he thinks is a caliper seal & it is almost exact!
Put the fan on & snugged the belts, got the old shroud painted20231023_125239.jpgshroud #'s20231023_121523.jpgCleaned & painter20231023_125148.jpgWe were trying to center the steering box & while I was under there I saw this, now this side is the ball joints I bought, I checked the other side on the arm that came with a ball joint & it's fine, seems to be thinner at the bottom???20231023_132642.jpg & something that bugged me but forgot to ask about, my fan motor has only two wires with a third cut off & taped off, did someone put in a one speed? 20231023_130351.jpg
 
We were trying to center the steering box & while I was under there I saw this, now this side is the ball joints I bought, I checked the other side on the arm that came with a ball joint & it's fine, seems to be thinner at the bottom???
I noticed the boots on my new tie rod ends were split and falling apart yesterday. I haven't looked at the ball joints yet.

FWIW don't worry about centering the steering box. The splines on the box and the column are keyed so it only goes on one way.
 

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