Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
No offense, but I can't see that being a six-figure car without a build sheet or data tag. If the trunk weatherstrip rail and core-support numbers are there, that certainly helps, but without the options or factory drivetrain I just can't see it going that far. I also can't see how one could put even $100K into it without farming out virtually every aspect of the build, including assembly. My "best of everything" Challenger project will come out at less than $40K. It's only a 318 car, but everything E-body specific is brutal on the wallet. Your bodywork is more extensive than mine, admittedly, but it seems like you got a decent shop that's doesn't appear to want to retire on your car alone.
There's a reason I go to the Jefferson swap meet twice a year. Even if it's not for the car currently on my plate, a screamin' deal is a screamin' deal and this is my hobby--there will be more cars. I look at eBay and online-vendor prices for 4-speeds, and giggle that the most I've ever spent was $500--and that was a Hemi 4-speed that came with a complete Super Shifter and blowproof bellhousing. I bought an A-body unit with factory Hurst two weeks ago for $400--the second-most expensive one to date.
You'd better drive it! You clearly love the 'cuda model in particular, and wanted to have one for yourself. If it's about anything else, you could've done all this work to a taxicab B-body ('68-'70) or an A-body for far less investment. It might not bring the same return, but if it's about the journey rather than the destination, who cares?
If you want to use the OE-style compressor, you'll either have to rebuild it yourself or send it out. I haven't found anyone reliably selling remanufactured V2 compressors outright. Parts-store replacements are single-cylinder York compressors (Ford style) which fit and do work, but not nearly as well. To rebuild it yourself, the parts hunt alone is nightmarish. Virtually every part is long discontinued and nobody in the aftermarket stepped up to make any of them (switches, and possibly the clutch are still available). Worse yet, there are a bunch of variants of the V2/RV2, so you need the serial number unless you're 100% sure it's the original compressor. The only way to find anything: Have the same-year parts catalog as the compressor, and know how to use it.
As a bonus kick to the groin, the design is not as simple as one might hope. It's a bit tricky to rebuild. Up through I believe 1975, a conversion to R134 is also more involved than just a Schrader-valve and hose swap (R12 hoses won't hold R134--it leaks right through the material). The early compressors use an EPR valve that cannot work with R134 and needs to be replaced by a temperature-compensating switch. I'm still looking into this, actually.
I'm currently experiencing all of this nonsense, since my '71 Challenger's AC is 100% intact, and I'd like to make it functional. Luckily my compressor turns smoothly, which means I probably don't need a crank and rods, but things like valve plates, pistons and piston rings are both hard to find and fairly expensive.
There are multiple good reasons that people switch to the Sanden-style compressors, not the least of which is the weight alone. It's also less expensive, and in the long run parts are easily replaced. Places like Original Air Group can help you with either option, and will probably help you decide which is best. I would think they'll steer you into the Sanden conversion based on cost alone.
It was in stock, though--that's part of my point. I put "Mopar balancer installer" into an internet search and the Summit listing for the Performance Tool set was the first or second link. Typing the same into Summit's own search bar brought up the Proform kit.
When you're looking for something specifically for a Mopar, do yourself a favor and try a Mopar-specific place like Mancini Racing. They might not be as pleasant, and if you do happen to pay more, at least you know you're getting solid advice and the right parts. That's worth a few sheckles.
I can see how heating it up would help (especially when you haven't got the right tool), but it also makes it a pickle to handle while you're trying to do it. Oven mitts aren't well-suited to holding a balancer, so if you want to go that route I'd suggest doing a couple of practice runs to develop a method with the balancer cold. Trying to formulate a plan with a scalding-hot part in your hand is not fun. Also, grease will not want to stay on the balancer snout as it'll melt and drip off at that temperature.
I've never heated a balancer, even in my youth when I installed them with light hammer raps until the bolt would pull it the rest of the way. I do not recommend this method at all. Not only can you pull the crank threads, you can damage the balancer. Even expensive ($200+) installers are cheap compared to replacing a crankshaft!
Put grease on the balancer snout, yes, so it goes through the new timing cover seal smoothly (smear a little on the seal, too). A little light oil on the installer threads (motor oil works, 3-in-1 or gun oil are great) are highly recommended, too. Trying to lubricate the crank snout won't accomplish anything. The balancer will simply push the lubricant out of the way as it moves along the crank. It won't lubricate anything or ease the process. Even light oil, which I have tried in the distant past, really doesn't seem to make any difference.
With an actual installation tool, I've never found any reason to try lubrication or heating. I install them dry and cold with clean threads. It's not hard, and I've never had an issue. When it's going on straight, it's a smooth and drama-free process.
