Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress
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RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Are you auto or 4 speed, mines auto & has 3 wires?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
It's an auto right now and I *think* it was born with an automatic. The wire to the starter relay is separate. I'm unsure if that's factory or not. You could be onto something with that.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
This would be the 3 spade pig tail at the tranny...............
I can't remember where it plugs in up top?
I can't remember where it plugs in up top?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Today I stuck in the rear light harness, also noticed it had no speaker wires, I don't remember a seperate harness for that? 
the plug at the gas tank barley touches the contact point & is pretty loose, only thing I can think of is a skinny nut & maybe it will go deeper on? 
Door seals arrived they look like crap!
laid out the dash harness, I forgot thay wrote the wire colors on the back of the panel, so ay least I didn't have to print out 20 pics!
The plugs pretty much go where they match up!
ther was no hole to run the light bar wires, I hope I took a good route?
Finally on to the bad connector for the Heat/cool switch, broke off the plastic connector & the spades & wires looked fine, so I cleaned them up & just ordered a couple of sizes of shrink wrap tubing to cover them all the way up (as suggested thanks Bob! )
the plug at the gas tank barley touches the contact point & is pretty loose, only thing I can think of is a skinny nut & maybe it will go deeper on? Door seals arrived they look like crap!
laid out the dash harness, I forgot thay wrote the wire colors on the back of the panel, so ay least I didn't have to print out 20 pics!
The plugs pretty much go where they match up!
ther was no hole to run the light bar wires, I hope I took a good route?
Finally on to the bad connector for the Heat/cool switch, broke off the plastic connector & the spades & wires looked fine, so I cleaned them up & just ordered a couple of sizes of shrink wrap tubing to cover them all the way up (as suggested thanks Bob! )
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I don't remember seeing any in the Duster but I also don't remember ever looking for them so they might be there. Might be able to figure it out from the FSM wiring diagram.
On my Duster, I installed a new sending unit and had a similar, maybe the same, problem. I cut the outer part of the plug back to try to get it to seat and then could see the sender connection was too big for the factory plug.
I ended up chopping the plug off and using a ring terminal and a nut/washer.
I just hope you never have to unplug them with the dash installed
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I MUST get everything under there done & operational before the seats go in, this old body ain't getting under there after that!
I have to check out my dismantle pics, see if I shot the rear speakers, there's 2 in this car I had one in the other car & could swear it was in the same loom, but since I can't remember what I had for breakfast that doesn't convince me!
I have to check out my dismantle pics, see if I shot the rear speakers, there's 2 in this car I had one in the other car & could swear it was in the same loom, but since I can't remember what I had for breakfast that doesn't convince me!
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
If I'm reading the numbers right, the transmission is from a '76 D-series pickup/Ramcharger/B-van. The last eight digits of the VIN number should be stamped in the other side of the pan rail. Two caveats about your transmission:
Trucks always had a low-RPM governor (and still do). Wide-open-throttle upshifts will happen at very low RPM compared to what the car had originally. In fact, it'll probably upshift early in normal driving too. At full throttle, the original transmission probably upshifted between 5,400-5,700RPM. Expect it to shift about 1,000RPM lower than that with your foot buried in the carpet. Manual upshifts/downshifts won't be affected, but remember: With a stock transmission at WOT, it won't shift immediately when you move the lever. It will shift 500-700RPM later. If you move the lever at 5,500RPM under full throttle, it'll actually shift at 6,000-6,200.
Replacing the governor assembly with a higher-RPM unit requires a large amount of disassembly and isn't necessarily for the faint of heart.
Yours also lacks a part-throttle kickdown (PTK) valve. This is one of those features you don't miss until you don't have it. The transmission will not downshift for any kind of acceleration unless you are at 100% throttle opening. No, it will not kick down at 90 or 95% throttle. You must absolutely floor it to get a kickdown for passing, merging, etc. It's not just an inconvenience, it's a huge pain in the ass. I wouldn't use a transmission without it; it's more of a safety issue than anything. The first time you need to squirt the car out of a tight spot, you'll wish you had it.
Adding PTK is pretty easy, but the time to do it was when the pan was off. It goes in place of that flat steel plate with the three screws on the side of the valve body. The valve body has to be lowered a bit to install it, but not fully removed. The B-vans I recall you using for work years ago would've had PTK since they were newer.
Other than those deficiencies, it's a great basic transmission. It's roughly what came in the car in terms of overall configuration. Just be prepared for it to drive like an old truck: You'll be in third gear before 20MPH, and those times you wish it would maybe downshift for a little extra oomph will require a radical foot-to-the-floor throttle input (hang on!). If you don't like the way it drives, remember: There's nothing wrong with the transmission. That's how it's programmed. Until one or both of those items get changed it will never behave any differently. A shift kit will not help, nor will a better converter. Increasing line pressure would help a little in the normal-driving upshift point, but that's about it.
I'm not sure what the greenish plastic is; I thought it might be sheared speedometer gear teeth. However, I've never seen a Mopar speedo gear that color and they're not consistently sized like gear teeth. It looks like the material Chrysler used for floor-shift linkage bushings, but I honestly have no idea what it was. I haven't done anything serious with a Torqueflite in more than 20 years. I know this: it certainly shouldn't be there.
The sealing washer that came with your trans filter kit isn't for the shift shaft or the throttle linkage. It looks like an improved drain-plug washer, although not as much as it looks like an AC seal. The shift-shaft seal looks like a leetle tiny axle seal with a rectangular cross-section:
That's the four-speed connector, same as my what's going in my Challenger. There's no neutral safety switch on a 4-speed, only a backup-lamp switch. It uses only two wires. The wire for grounding the starter relay comes from the clutch safety switch, which is connected to the pedal. It passes through the bulkhead connector but doesn't go anywhere near the transmission. Prior to 1970, manual-transmission A-bodies didn't have a clutch safety switch. If you turned the key with the car in gear and the clutch engaged, the car would move.
On the awfulmatics, the switch is 3-prong: One is a 12V feed wire, one is for the backup lamps, and the thirs is for the starter relay. In Reverse, the switch connects the 12V+ to the backup-lamp wire. In Park or Neutral, the switch grounds the starter relay through the transmission case. This is what every (formerly) automatic car I have had from the factory, 1969 Valiant through 1982 Imperial:
I have a hard time believing you didn't just run to a local store for core plugs and roll pins. Four core plugs and two roll pins probably would've been less than $3 w/tax. I think roll pins that size are $0.09 each at my store (the most expensive ones are $0.49), and the core plugs are ~$0.49 a piece. Worst-case? Still way under $5, and same-day service.
RockAuto is a drop-shipper. They don't have warehouses; they use other peoples'. I recently heard through the grapevine that their, uh, facilitator--the guy that made the whole thing work--is now driving a subterranean brass-handled sedan. It'll be interesting to see what, if anything, happens now that he's worm food.
Rear speakers were optional. If you're going to use all factory parts, you'll need the rear-speaker wiring harness as well as the "REAR SPEAKER" fader in the dash, its specific harness, and the factory 3-speaker dash's crossover for the corner dash speakers. This is one area where I'm deviating 100% from stock due to the expense involved in getting substandard sound (and the lack of reproductions). The "REAR SPEAKER" knob will look stock, but will (probably) be a subwoofer level control. Everything else will be aftermarket: Radio, speakers, amplifiers, etc.
Remove the nut; it serves no purpose. The stud should be molded into the plastic. With the nut gone, the connector should then seat fully. If it still feels loose, remove it and squeeze it gently with needle-nose pliers until it requires a bit of effort to install.
You are going to put clamps on that fuel outlet hose and vent nipple boot, right?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Tranny? Drove this one around a bit before I parked it, didn't really notice anything weird, but it was mostly around town & not a good thrashing.
Also not knowing what if anything was done to it leaves everything in question, I'll drop it back in & pray.
I'll try removing the nut next time out. Oh & the supply is clamped just out of the pic, I still haven't figured out what to do with the return, (it's just capped for bugs right now) I removed the fuel pump recently & that has a return also, I have to look up this whole charcoal canister setup , I set up the little tank by the gas tank as it was, but that leaves no connection for the one on the actual sending unit?
spare drain plug washer is a good thing, or should I use that & save the plastic one for a spare?
This had a different radio in it, with the cost to buy a look-a-like with new guts, I may venture over to a shop near me that installs sound systems & see what the damage is going to be, two things this old man must have a simple fm radio & A/C both of which did not work when I got the car!
Also not knowing what if anything was done to it leaves everything in question, I'll drop it back in & pray.
I'll try removing the nut next time out. Oh & the supply is clamped just out of the pic, I still haven't figured out what to do with the return, (it's just capped for bugs right now) I removed the fuel pump recently & that has a return also, I have to look up this whole charcoal canister setup , I set up the little tank by the gas tank as it was, but that leaves no connection for the one on the actual sending unit?
spare drain plug washer is a good thing, or should I use that & save the plastic one for a spare?
This had a different radio in it, with the cost to buy a look-a-like with new guts, I may venture over to a shop near me that installs sound systems & see what the damage is going to be, two things this old man must have a simple fm radio & A/C both of which did not work when I got the car!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
The governor comes off the rear end of the transmission. If you've got the tools it's not a big deal to change it. Don't know if I would or not - depends on your preferences. As was said:
They can make a big performance difference though.
I might have the part(s) you need to install the PTKD from the 904 that came with my 360, It's out of a 79 Fury or something - a big one. Let me know and I'll open it up and look. I'm never going to use it so FREE PARTS
I should figure out if there's anything else in it I should salvage.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Since I was digging up bones for another reason, I found this photo of a 747 governor. 904 is essentially, if not exactly, the same.
That one has no guts, which is what you need to replace if you want to upgrade your transmission. I'm almost sure you don't need to remove the whole assembly and can update it by pulling the tail shaft, then an e-clip to remove the governor cross shaft and a couple of snap rings to remove the weights.
That one has no guts, which is what you need to replace if you want to upgrade your transmission. I'm almost sure you don't need to remove the whole assembly and can update it by pulling the tail shaft, then an e-clip to remove the governor cross shaft and a couple of snap rings to remove the weights.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
" I might have the part(s) you need to install the PTKD from the 904 that came with my 360, It's out of a 79 Fury or something - a big one. Let me know and I'll open it up and look. I'm never going to use it so FREE PARTS I should figure out if there's anything else in it I should salvage. "
That one I might try, I already have an extra pan gasket, let me know what you find & I'll gladly pay the shipping & a few bucks for a little dinner!
Internals scare me, I'm basically a parts changer, I think if it turns out to be a problem I would take it to a tranny shop & pay the piper.
For what I'm going to do with it, it shouldn't be a problem, tooling around town & an occasional stint on the highway to blow the cobwebs out?
I should figure out if there's anything else in it I should salvage. "That one I might try, I already have an extra pan gasket, let me know what you find & I'll gladly pay the shipping & a few bucks for a little dinner!
Internals scare me, I'm basically a parts changer, I think if it turns out to be a problem I would take it to a tranny shop & pay the piper.
For what I'm going to do with it, it shouldn't be a problem, tooling around town & an occasional stint on the highway to blow the cobwebs out?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I don't suspect it'll have issue moving the car, but the two caveats do apply. You really have no way of knowing until you get a chance to give 'er the oats. Manually shifting can overcome both issues, but part of having an automatic is its ability to do things automatically!
If you've got the tools and the transmission out, it's no big deal to change it. I'm almost 100% positive a complete rework involves removing the output shaft, which requires major disassembly. Again, it's been a long time, but if memory serves the inner weights can be changed in-car, but replacing the outers requires significantly more work. I could be wrong.
On the other hand, the PTK is a very easy installation and worth its weight in gold.
There should be four lines going from the tank to the evap tank, then another nipple atop the evap tank for a hose that runs from the center port on the charcoal canister.
With the hose nipples on the charcoal canister pointing away from you, the left goes to the carburetor bowl vent, the middle goes to the evap tank in the trunk, and the right goes to the canister purge fitting on the carb. Of course, all this assumes using the original ThermoQuad. Most aftermarket carbs don't have a bowl vent fitting to which a hose can be connected.
Your fuel pump should not have a return line. It should have a hose nipple for the inlet and a threaded (inverted flare) fitting for the outlet. Similarly, the tank sender should not have a return line either. However, since you have both, you could connect one to the other if you put a regulator or some kind of metered restriction in the line between them. You cannot just connect them without a regulator or restriction or you'll just pump fuel back to the tank.
Six of one, half-dozen of the other. I'd probably just run the plastic one until it's worn.
Car audio has, by and large, gotten very inexpensive if you just want the basics. My problem with the newer stuff is how gaudy and unattractive it is (particularly eye-strain-inducing blue illumination), but the interfaces are often non-intuitive as well. Luckily for us E-body owners, the dash opening is an industry-standard DIN-size hole, so most aftermarket car stereos from the last 40 years will fit without issue. Just make sure you get something that doesn't require external amps or any other such silliness. If your only concern is an FM radio, there are "media receivers" available that don't even have a cassette or CD player, although these days a good one is no less expensive than one with a CD player. If the radio's really the only concern, you could probably get away an old dual-shaft from a pawn shop or garage sale.
Do not purchase anything made by Boss or Dual. You will be replacing it within a year.
Just run your own speaker wiring to the rear deck (and up to dash-pad level, if you're going to use four speakers). Since you're not building a max-effort system, I'd recommend these 6"x9" rear speakers and if you want matching fronts, there are matching 3.5" speakers that will fit in your stock dash corner locations. Even with tax and shipping, two fronts and two rears should be under $50 to your door. They're not high-performance speakers, but they're dramatically better than what came in the car new. They'll also hold up to anything your FM radio's going to throw at 'em. They don't come with grilles but in the front you've got the stockers and in the rear you should be good as long as your package tray has speaker slots.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
The whole thing, parking sprag and all, comes off by taking the center shaft out of the gov, and removing a snap ring. The sun gear I think it's called is on the other end of the tailshaft so that comes out toward the front of the case.
FWIW this covers it
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
tranny , I'll try the PTKD the other I think I'll pass on for now.
Radio, I'm gonna pull the speakers & see if I boxed the wiring with them, I think I have one new center front left over from the other car, I'll post up what I have.
Jass, I still need that front center speaker grille & the rocker & shaft any luck finding them?
Radio, I'm gonna pull the speakers & see if I boxed the wiring with them, I think I have one new center front left over from the other car, I'll post up what I have.
Jass, I still need that front center speaker grille & the rocker & shaft any luck finding them?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
If not, I've decided to not fool around with those factory rockers for break-in, so I can spare some parts. Let me know.
I'll drop the pan and VB off the trans and see if mine fits the description above.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Did the freeze out plugs on the other side & got that painted up, now when I get the chains again I'll knock off the back of the motor. 
this is the fuel pump I pulled off?
Not ready to face this mess yet, engine bay & foward light harnesses, I know there was a couple of questionable splices in there!
this is the fuel pump I pulled off?
Not ready to face this mess yet, engine bay & foward light harnesses, I know there was a couple of questionable splices in there!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
OK I have the dash speaker harness, still not locating anything for the rears? 
there were definitely 2 back there.......................
I think this is the under the seat harness??? 
I think I got these from charger man, front mounting is different not sure I can adapt, 
Rear does line up with the mounting holes, not sure how much power these need?
Thats the plastic shroud off the old on top.
rear is pyramid & there were 2 covers in the box?
there were definitely 2 back there.......................I think this is the under the seat harness??? I think I got these from charger man, front mounting is different not sure I can adapt, Rear does line up with the mounting holes, not sure how much power these need?
Thats the plastic shroud off the old on top.rear is pyramid & there were 2 covers in the box?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Check.
Check.
Check.
Not only did I find those parts, I also found this little doodad, left over from my Challenger:
At least, I think it's from my Challenger. It was in the tote with all my other wiring. It's not impossible that it was from my LeBaron, though. Either way, it's a complete, undamaged original NSS/backup harness for an automatic. Everything 'round here has gone manual except the Imperial, which still has this harness on it, so I have no need of it anymore. If you need it, it's yours.