Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

[b-body-bob]

At this point in time I don't even remember priming the plastic I painted. Seems like I just used the plastic prep and then painted it. But it's been 15 or so years ago.

 

[restoman]

You're going to apply a plastic prep before any paint, right?

If not I've got a can of stuff I used a long time ago and can look at the label (seems like it was an SEM product), and there's Restoman too, who would definitely know what works best.

Plastic prep is for bare plastic, before any primers or fillers are used...

 

[b-body-bob]

Plastic prep is for bare plastic, before any primers or fillers are used...

I do remember it was strictly a color change in my case and I didn't need to do any sanding.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Did I use the wrong stuff?
Well time will tell, like I said on the other car I just primed the beat up plastic, I'm 6 coats in on primer, no turning back mow!

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Pleasant surprise, I got out most of the deep gouges, now I wait & see how the repairs hold up, one more rear panel & some spot sanding on all the others & they will be ready for the seal coat & paint once the weather warms up.

 

[b-body-bob]

FWIW I found the plastic conditioner/whatever I used, DuPont Pla-stick 2322S. AFAICT they don't make it any more

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

I'm kinda committed now, or maybe I should be Committed for even trying this !

 

[b-body-bob]

The data for that plas-stick stuff said the same thing as Restoman, not for use on paint. You've got nothing to worry about - as far as the prep goes anyway.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Sooooooo I sanded out the last panel, this was the one with the big hole in it the spots a little rough, but the repair seems pretty strong.
The lower split open edge is also holding
Should take paint ok (I Hope!)
Down to my last piece of 100 grit, the stack was 6" hi when I started.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Took the sanding outside today, hitting the panels with 240 & then 400 to knock down the 100 sanding scratches, should be ready for painting as soon as the weather warms up!

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Started going through the front end rebuild kit, comparing to old parts there are some minor & some major differences.
Bump stops, geeze, you'd think these should be easy, well the LCA pieces are completely different.About the same height but all rubber, the old had a metal set peg I suppose I could drill a new set hole
would that be kosher or should I hunt down the correct ones?

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

the round ones should be ok, not sure how far the old ones were squshed down?

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Upper ball joints seem a tad smaller than the old? A straight grease fitting came with it, old had an angle, should I use the old or is the straight accessible?

Then I compared the one from the kit with the one that came on the new UCA & cept for a different boot they seem the same???

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Last & worst is the arm that connects the steering rods to the K frame, mucho different, old slides between the ears easily, new won't go in maybe a 1/16 off?
Do you pound it in, or try & press it more before it goes in or do I just use the old cause it's the wrong part???

 

[68R/T]

Last & worst is the arm that connects the steering rods to the K frame, mucho different, old slides between the ears easily, new won't go in maybe a 1/16 off?

"Idler arm" I would try to install the new. First see if the rubber bushings will compress, either by c-clamp or vice. If it will, do what's needed to install. The new one appears to be of better quality.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Hopefully a little squish will work I have a pretty hefty c clamp.

Any thoughts on the LCA bump stops?

 

[b-body-bob]

Any thoughts on the LCA bump stops?

I wouldn't drill a hole to make the part fit. The hole and the 90* bend in the mounting plate hold the bump stop in place and you will have a hassle tightening it up without the part fitting those correctly.

I hope your new boots hold up better than the ones I bought did. One of the tie rod boots split as soon as I put them on. I had one out of a HELP! kit to replace that one with. IIRC another one is split now and needs replaced.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

So after your comments I checked out the old boots, looks like it gotta be the new ones, not much to salvage here


then I set up to squish the Idler are, it did go in a little but bounced right back.
I pounded it in, she's in there but it takes a LOT of force to move it, how free should it be ?
checking the sway bar parts, they are off tooNot sure I put them on the bolt right but the new is way longer than the old?

Before I try & scan through 2000 pics, does the sway bar mount go over or under the K frame?

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

cant find those bump stops, rock showed 3 brands, none had that set pin, year one nothing, pg classics nothing, classic industries had one, no set pin.
Any place I can try, at this point if none have the pin, I can drill for mine with the pin, or just cut it off?

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Oh yea, Year one did show the exact Idler arm I had, if that too tight won't fly?

It would be nice if I had the slightest idea of what I'm trying to do, sorry guys!