Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

On the other car the panels were all flacky? I could put a scratch in the plastic with my finger nail, this one the plastic underneath seems solid, we will see, it will be a LOT of wasted work if I end up buying repops!
 
concentrated on the worst panel, tried everything, 40 grit dry was too aggressive & put some scratches in the plastic,80 grit got a lot off, then I went to wire wheels, started with a fairly soft 3" & that got most off, no damage to plastic, then I put on a little harder 2" for the stubborn spots. it's getting there.
that's the 2" wheel on the drill...........................20230123_153913.jpg
Not worried about the scratches, it will take a couple of coats of high build to get the other damage & the grain out, so it should get those out too, almost there on 1 panel, 5 more to go! 20230123_145347.jpg
 
Add some plasticizer (flex additive) to the primer if you want the job to last more than a year or so.
Add it to the paint, as well.
 
I used the adhesion stuff on the bumper filler panels , on the panels I just used primer & the shot PPG organisol black, lasted 10 years, when I sold it there was only 1 spot on the drivers door that blistered, but those panels were far worse (chalky) then these.

I will hit the paint shop before I shoot & see what they have.
 
Now I'm getting depressed!
just noticed a big chunk missing on one rear panel, then I tried some super glue on a split on the other one.............. 20230124_144409.jpg20230124_141228.jpg
After todays session I blew out the dust, half the town is now green! 20230124_144247.jpg
I got one clean! 20230124_150025.jpg
I wish, these are a set I picked up years ago, no holes for the 'Cuda emblem, one is a little chalky at the top, but may be a better set, I'll wait till the emblems come, if they are stick on I may use these.20230124_150036.jpg
A little closer on the blue one?
I picked up the one I glued & it split right back open again!

So I priced out new panels, 2 sets listed one set 500 & the other 700, nothing in the description is different?
Oh that's just the rears, problem is none of the rears show that rectangular hole for the seat belt thingie & none of the fronts have holes for the emblems.
So 1000 bucks & I still have to mess with them quite a bit?
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Ahhhhh, it's just the prices for parts have gone crazy, I always tried to reuse & rehab anything I could, time I have, but after this problem plagued paint job (I probably could have paid a pro) I just need something to go right.
Just got my back ordered door handle & the non keyed glove box tumbler, It went together in my hands so I have hope that problem is solved & I can use the keyed ones I have for the trunk & console!
Year one had all the emblems except the 360 cuda hood callouts, so those & the console are coming soon.
Really don't need them for a while,but it shrinks the need list a tad!
Thinking of takin a day or 2 off, regroup & hit it again!
 
well that jolly feeling didn't last long. Opened up the box, looked well packaged & then it went downhill.20230126_134039.jpg
Door is a bit off.................did try adjusting with no luck. 20230126_134301.jpg
Chunk of plastic missing, didn't find any in the box though? 20230126_134316.jpgThe main seam is pretty crappy...............20230126_134324.jpg
So I put my new lock mech. in & the casing is hitting the catch so it won't pop open(spring loaded)
noticed the bend so I dug out the one I stripped off my console..............20230126_144124.jpg
Went to tighten mine in & the plate in the back stripped (BOTH SCREWS) 20230126_145815.jpgI did strip that plate off mine, & also kept the hinge, I think I have a good black bottom section, will go out tomorrow & mess with it a little more before I vent back at year one for a sub standard part! 20230126_150114.jpg
I wanted to post this all up yesterday but my fingers kept typing 4 letter words!!!

Last was the ash tray, I thought I had a really nice on, turns out it's slightly different, don't even remember where it came from, probably ebay 15 years ago, the middle one fits but has some rust marks down in the tray!20230126_145835.jpg



Small section of good stuff, not enough to stop the steam blowing out my ears!

Door handle is in..............& emblems look ok, did waste some money on those 3 black speed nuts (bought a bag of each size) I thought I was getting ones like on the right for some of the other parts of the car? at least they were fairly cheap.
20230126_132937.jpg
door panel ones do have the studs, so make using different panels harder. Tail panel is stick on? 20230126_142456.jpg
 
yea the 73 chally and 74 fish were disaster areas when it came to fit n finish..i spent ALOT of trying to align things better on the chally before an agrement was made that the factory just didnt make stuff ment to fit right
 
out of my own dumb curiosity..has anyone tryed repairing interior plastics the same way motorcycle plastic gets restored?...chemicals and a heat gun and lots of polishing time?

also the only way ive found to fix a cracked interior panel was to use the same high end modern bumper repair rubbery epoxys
 
I did spend a LOT of time aligning the panels on the 73 & they were pretty good, 1 window (pass. door) had a small leak I never could get rid of & when I put the new trunk seal in the lid popped up in one rear corner, that I didn't even mess with hoping the seal would settle after a while, then I sold it!

hmmmm gotta check out that rubber bumper stuff.
 
OK much messing but I might be close to a console I can use.
I cleaned up my old latch catch & glued the old base plate behind the plastic.20230128_134543.jpg
these are the receptacles for the screws on the skinny side, one hole is way off & I had to file them back a bit for the edge to fit flush. 20230128_133911.jpg
got it flush now if I can drill & tap the second hole? 20230128_134704.jpg
New lock is in.................20230128_140738.jpg
got 2 coats of black, she's a little rough.............20230128_140804.jpg
And a coat of clear, helped the look a little, it's a bit shinier than the top, do I dare shoot a coat of clear on that??20230128_143427.jpg
Adjusted the door a little closer, about half that off set gone, buuuuuuuut I still haven't tried the lock/ latch operation?
will give the paint some time to set & then try & put it together & see what I got?
 
out of my own dumb curiosity..has anyone tryed repairing interior plastics the same way motorcycle plastic gets restored?...chemicals and a heat gun and lots of polishing time?

also the only way ive found to fix a cracked interior panel was to use the same high end modern bumper repair rubbery epoxys
Yup.
Much like beating your head against a wall, it's better when you stop.
OEM plastic isn't friendly stuff. Very little UV stability, never intended to last more than 5 years (unless its higher-end Euro stuff), and "dirty" as all get-out, IF you can determine what type of plastic it is...

It is possible to do a quality repair job, but it's pretty labour and materials intensive. Short of spending the time and money,anything that lasts more than a year is good luck, nothing else.
Motorcycle plastic is far more forgiving.
 
I bought reproduction black door panels for the Challenger with a 30% discount code from Year One. Kevin pointed out that I shouldn't have gotten impatient and should've found good used. "Hold 'em up to the rear panels. They won't even come close to matching." He was right. We don't realize after all these years that used plastics are worn and shiny, which is not how they were when new. Years of wear, temperature changes, and sunlight have their effect.

Your struggle with the console is one reason I couldn't wait to ditch the one in the Challenger--easy to do with a 4-speed. The last one I had, I spent a ton of time not only assembling it, but taking extreme measures to combat squeaks, rattles, and hollow pops. I more than doubled the weight of that console between silicone, foam gaskets, spray sound deadening and DynaMat. Nowhere did two pieces of plastic actually contact. It was the only totally-silent Mopar console of any kind I've ever experienced, so I sold it and swore off consoles eternally. Of course, now I have one for the Imperial because I'm stupid.
 
The battle with the console is over (well for now don't know about fit in the car?)
After bending the catch a bunch of times & changing the lock a few times I finally got it to latch down good & release, still doesn't really pop up but I can open it, new keyed lock is in.
After seeing the big difference with the painted bottom I decided to try the new one & see how close I can get it.
door is pretty close, I ended up putting my old hinge on it had a slightly stronger spring. 20230129_144207.jpg
20230129_144220.jpg
back seem is a little ragged 20230129_144303.jpgSo then it was down to the ash tray, put in the bezel & the tray with the rusty gut 20230129_145430.jpg20230129_145444.jpgfor some reason I took another look at the good one, turns out the bezel is different but the trays are the same, well what do you know something went good! 20230129_145623.jpgSo I cleaned up the wood grain plate, think I'll go all new on this the chrome is pretty beat up? 20230129_144935.jpg
 
So the new wheel paint arrived so I shot the last 2 rims, it's a bit darker & more metallic, hope there's enough left to at least shoot over the other 2. 20230129_144646.jpgAs usual I find another problem, when I put them flat on the bench they are different widths, so now I go around & measure all the others, all 6 1/2 , with one 7" how that happened I have no Idea, guess the 2 I bought were one of each, the last 6 1/2 was the worst rusty one still sitting out in the weather, can I use the 7" as the spare?
trying to have a rally spare in stead of the plain black rim? 20230129_144658.jpg
 
Today I will try & end on the good thing, soooooooo here's the bad.
I pulled the front bumper filler out & it was way out of shape in the middle so I set up the heat gun , did manage to get it close, then I realized there's major parts of both ends missing!20230130_143417.jpg
I'm hoping I don't need it, I'm leaving off the major hunk of metal that they mounted behind the bumper for that 5mph crash rule. not sure how far that will pull the bumper in ?

Off to the pesky door, the good news is the new lock goes in & out easy, the bad is the paint is still garbage, did this thing 4 times already, now it's back to bare metal again! 20230130_132616.jpg
the good news is 3 of the rims are done, waiting on more of the new paint to finish off the 4th, the 5th will probably wait till spring when I can set up my blasting tent again & get the last one cleaned up

Should look pretty good when I get the new trim rings! 20230130_131803.jpg
 
Removing the impact bar will only move the bumper in about ¼" or so but also remove a bunch of weight, which is good. Even though I had a complete F/R set of good bumper fillers for my Challenger, I bought earlier bumper brackets. The worst thing about the '73-'74 E-bodies' exterior is the bumper guards. The second-worst thing is the slack-jawed look of the protruding bumpers. I bought '70-'72-style mounts, '70 non-padded rear bumper guards (you have to have something; those are the cleanest) and 1970-'71 bumpers without the jack slots.

It's all OE-replacement stuff, but it's so much cleaner-looking than extra holes, bolts, and giant rubber cushions.
 

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