My 71 Duster work in progress

b-body-bob said:
The code is GB5 if anyone has suggestions that might work. Now that I've rubbed the black off it looks more like EB5 because it's "clearer" and a lighter shade in places.
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The first digit of the paint code does no good if you call a paint store. I'm not aware of a manufacturer's formula book that shows that first digit because it's technically not related to the paint code, it's simply the first year the color was used (E=1969, F=1970, etc.). When you go to order paint, you tell the man "I need your finest rattlecan of 1971 Chrysler code B5" because he won't have a listing for GB5.

There are three different B5s of which I'm aware: 1969-'70 (EB5), 1971-'73 (GB5), and 1974-'75 (JB5). The 1969-'70 color is darker but more vivid or intense than the later two versions, which themselves don't match. 1974-'75 is the palest and most subdued of the three, but it's pretty close to the '71-'73 version. Both are paler in comparison to the first version.
 
Paint is $32.05 per bomb, tax and all. It's acrylic enamel so no clear coat needed.

I'm thinking I should get 2 cans to be sure.

Ouch.

I also stumbled into an on-line price for a gallon of B5 - $495.

There's no easy way to find the price on the code 99 road runner green, but AMC big bad green is $800 a gallon.
 
Sherman 4th dimension was what I was getting, mid 300's before covid, last batch almost 500.
On the other car I was using PPG DBC I think, when I was doing that last repaint the wanted 1200 a gallon (just for the paint) & one of the ingredients changed so they couldn't even guarantee a match!
Didn't pay, that's when I found the shop with sherman williams, got a very close color for 400 a gallon, was out the door with clear & all mixers for about 600 & that's redish which I heard was one of the most expensive colors!
 
b-body-bob said:
There's no easy way to find the price on the code 99 road runner green, but AMC big bad green is $800 a gallon.
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Bright Green (Rallye Green for Dodge) is code 999 to be overly specific, which was also the paint "code" for the other two Spring Special colors, Bahama Yellow and orange. Some sources refer to it as F6. Bright/Rallye Green was available across the entire Dodge & Plymouth lineup in spring 1969, not just the A12 cars. AMC Big Bad Green is a dramatically different green, though. I have a friend with three Big Bad '69 Javelins, one of each. I'd say BBG (b-body-gina?) is much closer to 1971 J6, a.k.a. Sassy Grass.

The old PPG/Ditzler formula number for 1969 999/F6 green is (was) 44032, while DuPont's was 5078. Chrysler's touch-up paint code was DT7614. If you want me to look into a gallon of it, I'll do so. We don't mix paint, but we can get it mixed for us. If you want me to check on pricing, let me know what type of paint you want. We have the DuPont line available.
 
Dr.Jass said:
Bright Green (Rallye Green for Dodge) is code 999 to be overly specific, which was also the paint "code" for the other two Spring Special colors, Bahama Yellow and orange. Some sources refer to it as F6. Bright/Rallye Green was available across the entire Dodge & Plymouth lineup in spring 1969, not just the A12 cars. AMC Big Bad Green is a dramatically different green, though. I have a friend with three Big Bad '69 Javelins, one of each. I'd say BBG (b-body-gina?) is much closer to 1971 J6, a.k.a. Sassy Grass.

The old PPG/Ditzler formula number for 1969 999/F6 green is (was) 44032, while DuPont's was 5078. Chrysler's touch-up paint code was DT7614. If you want me to look into a gallon of it, I'll do so. We don't mix paint, but we can get it mixed for us. If you want me to check on pricing, let me know what type of paint you want. We have the DuPont line available.
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Thanks for the formula numbers. The resto shop has a wall of paint set up to mix what they need. I'd forgotten the Rallye Green name for it.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Sherman 4th dimension was what I was getting, mid 300's before covid, last batch almost 500.
On the other car I was using PPG DBC I think, when I was doing that last repaint the wanted 1200 a gallon (just for the paint) & one of the ingredients changed so they couldn't even guarantee a match!
Didn't pay, that's when I found the shop with sherman williams, got a very close color for 400 a gallon, was out the door with clear & all mixers for about 600 & that's redish which I heard was one of the most expensive colors!
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I don't have many places to price shop here. The two places I know of to get paint are only about two blocks apart. The other place is NAPA so they might not be setup to put it in a spray bomb.
 
It'll all kill you.

Wear a respirator. If it's old, get new filters for it. Unsealed filters have a finite shelf life regardless of usage.
 
Don't worry it's nowhere near as nice as this photo might lead you to think.

1699132763599.png

Yeah I noticed I missed a spot, ditto the underside and bottom of the yoke. Caught those up once I looked at it under a light after the photo.

But, better. There is some cracking that was also in the white crap paint that I didn't sand/wipe all the way off. Oops.

It's satin, because that's what I found first. Maybe should've kept looking until I found flat black. No matter, that part is done. I'll mask it in the other direction tomorrow and we'll see how the spraybomb B5 works out.

Also, the valence is scuffed up flat black. I thought I could just wipe it off but no. I don't know what they sprayed it with, but it's not what they used under the hood and a total color coat will be involved. I may just spray it black and say it's part of the V24 package so suck on that. (it's not, the valence is always body color)
 
I've hit a wall of nothing will stick to the filthy backside of that firewall so I haven't masked the firewall to proceed. I did scuff things a bit, debating taking the wiper motor out since I've already taken the glovebox and heater box out. Makes it a bit easier to get to.

I need to figure out how high I will need to raise the car to put the engine in from the bottom and decide about that too. And then there's all those clutch parts.
 
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Measured from the bottom of the k-frame to the top of the rad support ~ 25"
Measured from the ground to the surface of the cart I hope to use if I drop the K-frame = 8"

Estimating the engine/kframe height at 25" means I would need to lift the front of the car about 36" to get the loaded cart under it. If I could go straight under the front, which complicates everything because the crane needs to stand back further that way. I think it's about the same going under the side though.
 
Plan - ha

Tonight I noticed I put my carpet in with the heater box in place, now it's out and my carpet doesn't go far enough up the firewall.
 
I'm fine with the axle-strap idea, but only up until the point you're installing the K. That core-support rail can lift an empty front end, but that's about it.

That's a pretty neat little cart setup in the photo. I think I'd be working out the distance from the K-member's mounting surface to the floor with the car on low-set jackstands, just so you can make the cart high enough to not have to lift the assembled K much, if a'tall. It looks pretty close in that photo, to be honest.

If you've got open rafters/trusses in your garage, a chain fall or come-along might work better than the engine crane. A length of 4x4 across two to support it would be more than enough to lift the front end. It's pretty light--you can probably nearly lift it with no front suspension or K-member under it.

b-body-bob said:
Tonight I noticed I put my carpet in with the heater box in place, now it's out and my carpet doesn't go far enough up the firewall.
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Isn't there a firewall insulation pad to hide the sheetmetal? I honestly don't remember from installing the carpet in the Valiant... maybe I made the same error. :unsure: No matter; I worked too hard on making everything related to the heater work (I refuse to drive a car without a defogger) to remove it. Also, it's the Valiant--so who cares?! :LOL:
 
Dr.Jass said:
Isn't there a firewall insulation pad to hide the sheetmetal
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Maybe there should be.

I will never have the car out in bad weather, so the heater isn't required. I need to do something for the floor on the passenger side though.

Dr.Jass said:
I'm fine with the axle-strap idea, but only up until the point you're installing the K. That core-support rail can lift an empty front end, but that's about it.
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My plan is to put the car on stands and lower the K out with the hoist, and to do the same in reverse going back in with the engine in place. I will only use the rad support when picking up the car to get it over the engine so it will be as light as possible.

Dr.Jass said:
That's a pretty neat little cart setup in the photo. I think I'd be working out the distance from the K-member's mounting surface to the floor with the car on low-set jackstands, just so you can make the cart high enough to not have to lift the assembled K much, if a'tall. It looks pretty close in that photo, to be honest.
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The cart I've got pre-built is 8" from the floor to the top surface. No engine, no way to know how high the k-frame normally sits. If I have to lift it once it's under the car I would just hook onto the lifting plate and hoist away.

Dr.Jass said:
open rafters/trusses
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My trusses are under an insul-board ceiling. I would only do that if I had a single board spanning the outside walls or a support where boards come together. IOW, rafters or jacks under the join. Trusses aren't meant to hold weight in that direction. Seems to me like it would pull them apart. All that holds them together are nailing plates.
 
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