84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Damn, you guys have it rough in the hardware department. The parts store I hang around has castellated nuts up to 1-3/8" on hand, and bolts up to 14MM (except, of course, the nefarious, never-seen 11MM). We've got some truly big stuff at the diesel shop, of course. I did not realize I lived in hardware paradise. :dance:

I wouldn't have gotten too worried about flange-head bolts, though. The only difference is the clamping area, and nearly the same dispersion of load can be accomplished with an SAE flat washer.
 
I have a few places down here too, couple independents plus Fastenal. Haven't gone over to see all of what they have yet, but I will be at some point I'm sure.
 
69.5CUDA said:
cow..do me a favor...measure the splines of the 2 and 4 shafts ...i wonder if you could "cut" the 2wd shaft down and just swap the tail housing.....and its something i may need to know at some point...and you have both shafts in a spot where you can find out for me
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OK 69 I checked them out. The 2wd main shaft could be cut off right at the end of the slines, and it would be within 1/16" of the 4wd shaft. The biggest issue is the spline count. The 2wd is a 31 spline, and the 4wd is a 29 spline. I have no idea is you could get a 31 spline output shaft coupler to use on a married transfer case. Guess you could cut the drive shaft yoke and the transfer case coupler and weld it to make an adapter?
 
thats EXACTLY what i was afraid of...ford did the same damned thing..but went the other way around..4x is a LARGER output spline than the much smaller 2wd output
 
thrashingcows said:
Guess you could cut the drive shaft yoke and the transfer case coupler and weld it to make an adapter?
Click to expand...

That's the route that I took years ago when I bolted a chev 302 in a Allis WC. I machined the back half of a chev diff yoke to fit into the machined Allis yoke spline to ensure a perfect center and alignment. Bevel edges, weld, grind smooth, walla. :cool:
 
I called and cancelled my ASTM nuts and bolts, and have ordered the 1/2" x 20 Grade 8 flange head bolts and Stover lock nuts from the McMaster-Carr site...hope to have them by Wednesday at the latest.

I just was not feeling good about the Construction grade bolt, since they are technically a grade 5.
 
I have had the clutch slave cylinder...what comes out of the tranny...hanging down under the truck for a couple weeks now. I noticed the other night a little fluid around the end. Thought at first it must be water...since it's been raining. Gave it the quick tongue test and it's brake fluid.

So I pulled the rod and grommet off and sure looks like it's leaking around the cylinder. Probably the front section of the bore that was not traveled on was a bit rusty...then removing the tranny allowed the piston to move up and over that rusty area....thus the leaking seal.

So can I reseal this myself? Or should I just get a new one? Also do I need one for a NV4500 or Getrag? And I can replace just the leaking slave cylinder assembly right? They do come loose from the line?
 
i personaly would do a light rehone and reseal..ive done ALOT of em..alfa to toyota........id still buy a new one to have on hand but youll likely never need it
 
Well I got an E-mail from McMaster - Carr today stating that because I live in Canada they will not send me the nuts and bolts I want.[smilie=l:

Seems that even though I was to have them shipped to my USA address, and then bring them across the border myself...that this somehow violates all kinds of international trade laws etc. Since the final destination is Canada.

They sent me a lot of info as to why they can not process my order, and I'm sure it's all legit...but come on [B]Nuts and Bolts[/B]?? If I was to purchase these items through a business within Canada then they could accommodate my order.

So after a friggin week I still have no nuts or bolts to assemble my frame!!:doh:
 
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cow..send them to me and ill send them to you

hell if i need to order them for you i will

as for the seals..useualy its a flanged oring of sorts...and "most" times napa has or can get them..its similar to the "puck" seals in wheel cyls...in fact some times they are puck seals
 
Thanks for the offer 69. I am going to call around to every nut/bolt vendor in the lower mainland tomorrow and see if I can find the elusive 1/2" x 20 x 1.5" grade 8 Flange head bolt, with Stover lock nut with a flange head.....will let you know.

Hmmm...makes sense since they use the same fluid, and principle, as a brake wheel cylinder. Thanks for the info!!
 
yeah they are just a 1 sided wheel cyl...some of the alfa ones actualy use a seal and a puck..the seal is incase the puck starts leaking as well as a "scraper" to keep the bore clean for the puck..its briliant really considing its almost the lowest item on the car
 
Well I hopefully have the right fasteners on there way!

I went across the border to my Local USA Napa. The older woman who is an amazing parts person....was able to help me out. She called her supplier...Fastenal in the US....and they had the stuff I needed in WA state. Should be here tomorrow, Thursday at the latest.
 
i has account at fastenal....oddly i dont recall seeing those in the book....but...as ive learned there is a TON of shit not in the book
 
Nut and Bolt saga continues.....

So I open my E-mail this morning and there is a bill/receipt from McMaster - Carr....WTF? I look at it and it clearly states..."Canada Export - **DO NOT SHIP**" Then at the bottom there is a UPS tracking number. So I check the tracking...shipped the same day I received the E-mail stating that they would not sell me the nuts and bolts, and was en-route to be delivered to my US shipping address today...again WTF!!

I go back to the first E-mail I received from them, and called the guy who sent it...no answer only voice mail. Leave a long rambling message. Then I get on the phone to Visa...see if I can put a stop payment on it...nope hasn't cleared yet. Then I decided to go to the McMaster-Carr website and see if they have a customer service number.

I then call their Help line and explain everything that has been going on. And how I have already found bolts locally. The guy said that they clearly F'd up and that they would refund me the cost of the nuts and bolts. I asked if they wanted them back...he told me to just keep them.

Now I needed to call Napa and tell them what has happened and that I now do not need the nuts and bolts they were bringing in for me.

So at the end of the day I finally have my nuts and bolts...at no cost to me...and I can finally get the cross members and brackets in tomorrow!!

What a friggin ordeal!!
 
Update in progress...

I made a couple templates and got the rear spring mount holes punched, and drilled.



Bought a decent 1 3/4" hoke say to make the big hole in the frame. I used tons of cutting fluid, and then only cut in 10-15 second intervals before adding more cutting fluid. Took a good 5 minutes or so to, each side, to cut through the frame, but my hole saw still looks almost new.

 
Got all new bushings installed in my springs. Got them all smoothed out with the 60 grit flapper discs, and then painted. Now I just need to drill all the tips for the poly wear pads and reassemble.

 
i feel your pain on the holes....i did them on a ford van...worse was there is a angled brace inside the frame in that spot(never knew it was there till the drill tore my arm off fracturing a few fingers)...NIGHTMARE!!!
 
And since it wasn't raining today, and was a balmy 6*c (45*F) I spent all day today with a heat gun and a can of paint working on the frame rails.



And with my flange head nuts and bolts in hand I couldn't wait until tomorrow to start assembling the frame. :D Got the rear spring hangers in first, Loctite 242'd and torqued. Then it was slide the center cross member in place and then start on the front cross member.

First thing I discovered was that things have to be assembled in a certain pattern. The three bolt that are behind the cross member have to go in first. I discovered that I needed to notch the cross member to clear the head on the upper/forward bolt head.



Few minutes with the die grinder and I had lots of clearance.



 
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