84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Now the fun part. Install the brackets and try and get all the measurement s to line up...:( I spent a couple hours running back and for to the computer to check all the measurements. I eventuallt got it all blocked up and in position.



I then noticed that the Driver side rear most upper hole in the bracket lined up almost perfectly with the center hole left by a rivet I pounded out.



The passenger side was off just a little....



I decided to install bolts and see where my measurements would fall.



So with the main center cross member bolted in using those two holes, All my measurements are within a 1/16th to 1/8th...and some are dead on. Think I can live with those measurements. So tomorrow I will double check the measurements one last time, then start drilling.
 
69.5CUDA said:
im willing to bet even at 1/8th off its still within factory spec
Click to expand...

I agree. Since all the bolts for the motor mounts and tranny mounts, etc...have a lot of "play" in them. SO you can make up the differences in a lot of different places.
 
So I've been tearing apart my NV4500 the last couple nights. Found a couple issues.

One was with the 5th gear that I ordered from Quad4x4. I decided to see how it fit on the new 4wd main shaft but it would only go up to the threads for the nut. Not over and onto the splines...***!! Turns out I got the right package, but the wrong part inside. I have to say though Roy down at Quad4x4 has been more then helpful in fixing this issue, and quickly!!

Second issue is when I got my 5th gear clutch and gear assembly off the counter shaft, a couple teeth fell off the inside of the clutch!





So looks like I will be needing a new clutch/cone assembly for 5th gear. I see there are aftermarket units...anyone run one of these? How do they stand up?

I can get an NOS OEM unit from Quad4x4...but they are 4x's the price of the aftermarket units!! I personally think I will go with the aftermarket unit. Since I will never be turning up my motor to make crazy HP or Torque. And I drive, and shift very easy.
 
Next problem I'm having is with removing the bearings. Anyone who's done this in there shop/garage have any tricks to share?

I had to putt the cage and rollers off the counter shaft bearing so I could swing it up and out of the case.







I don't care about the 2wd main shaft...it's toast anyway due to the 5th gear failing. So I was just going to cut them off. But the counter shaft front bearing is sunk down within the gear...not sure how I'm going to get that one out?

You can see it in the pic as I'm lifting the the cluster out.
 
I would expect there's not enough room for a 3-jaw puller to get in behind the bearing. About the only thing that comes to mind is a screw-type valve spring compressor, with the cage and rollers removed from the bearing and a whole bunch of heat applied to the inner race left behind. The only drawback to that idea is that the jaws are offset vertically on the valve spring compressor to account for the spiral to the coil.
 
I've sat patiently with my die grinder and cut 90% through a bearing inner shell before. Then use a cold chisel in the cut and give it a few whacks. Usually cracks through the rest of the way not damaging the inner surface. Might be ho I will have to do this one as well.

I called my buddies shop to see if he was working today....Commercial truck repair shop. Not in until next Wednesday. So I will see if he has anything there I can use before I start grinding and cutting.
 
Got all my rear leaf springs, and brackets etc back from the sand blaster.



One pf the front spring hanger brackets had a crack in it...V-'d it out good...then welded it up. Ground it down, and rat filed the opening.






 
Been measuring, and measuring trying to get the front main cross member located properly. Man what a pain!!

I had to pull out the front cross member to drilled out all the holes to get 1/2" bolts in where the rivets would be. Then re-assembled.

And since the one hole was darn close I decided to use it. But I found I needed just a little more wiggle room on the center cross member. Turns out that it has a slight peek to it.



And once I leveled it out I also beveled the inside edge...since it buts up against the top radius where the frame rail is folded over.



 
Once I massaged the cross member I was able to get my measurements to within 1/16" to 1/8"...I can live with that.

Then it was carefully drill out the remaining holes. Only had one go crooked on me...had to stop at 7/16" and rat file the rest of the way to 1/2".







The nuts and bolts I used are just random pieces from my buckets of misc. Will have to buy proper grade 8 nuts/bolts and washers. Cross members have to come back out so I can paint the frame and brackets again.

Now I have to finish getting the rear most spring bracket positioned and drilled out.
 
Rear top spring and brackets are down getting new bushing installed. And due to the rust on my top springs, because of the void in the cast blocks between the top spring and the over load, I need to get solid pieces made up to replace the cast units.

The spring shop recommended this or I might end up with a broken top spring at the corrosion area. So I will take the old cast blocks down to my machinist and get him to make up a couple new pieces for me.
 
I brought the NV4500 pieces down to my friends shop, and he removed all the bearing for me. So finally got the rest of the tranny torn down. Now just waiting on a few pieces and I can start re-assembly.



Difference in the 2wd vs 4wd mainshafts....

 
cow..do me a favor...measure the splines of the 2 and 4 shafts ...i wonder if you could "cut" the 2wd shaft down and just swap the tail housing.....and its something i may need to know at some point...and you have both shafts in a spot where you can find out for me
 
69.5CUDA said:
cow..do me a favor...measure the splines of the 2 and 4 shafts ...i wonder if you could "cut" the 2wd shaft down and just swap the tail housing.....and its something i may need to know at some point...and you have both shafts in a spot where you can find out for me
Click to expand...

I thought the exact same thing. I will measure them and let you know how close they are. But I would think it's definitely doable.
 
I've been going crazy trying to find the flange head nuts and bolts to secure the new brackets to the frame.

But Think I finally found a guy who really knows his stuff. I told him what I was doing, and how I prefer to go over kill. He told me that Grade 8 bolts and nuts in this kind of application can actually be worse then using grade 5....since the grade 8 can crack and break due to flex. So He's bringing me in matched nuts, bolts and washers that are used in bridge building....so they will flex and still hold super strong.
 
They are called ASTM A325. They are technically not as strong as a grade 8...but they can flex and not have to worry about breakage. I would have prefered to go with grade 8 flanged head nuts and bolts....but I was having a bear of a time finding them locally. These were a good compromise, and I can pick them up Monday morning. Everyone else would have to order them, and couldbe a week or more to get them....and then most would only sell a box....most were a 100....and some as much as 300! I only need about 30.
 
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