71ChargerRT
Well-known member
Eating is over-rated... :bwuhaha:
1981 LeBaron coupe - from the ground up.
- Thread starter Dr.Jass
- Start date
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
I'd go with these Doc, the others remind me of the camaro wheels I had on my '80 Regal.
Diplomat_Wagon
Hiding In The Bushes While
Hey Jass! You need anything off this one? There ain't much left and it's days are numbered. 
1980 318 4bbl car too.
1980 318 4bbl car too.
Diplomat_Wagon
Hiding In The Bushes While
I see a few things I need, but the project's completely stalled at the moment. The car is the least of my worries at this point... some nonsense about me and my dog eating and having a roof over our heads.
Yeah I hear yah, I just saw it today while driving by the scrap yard and said "Holy Shit A LeBaron! I wonder if Pierre needs anything?"
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Thanks for thinking of me.
I had to return my holy-shit screaming-deal radiator for the LB today. When it all gets better, I don't know what I'm going to do for a radiator... that was a 28" 3-row copper/brass radiator that cost me $170. Cost (before markup) on it is now nearly $300... and my core support is already cut for it. :doh:
I had to return my holy-shit screaming-deal radiator for the LB today. When it all gets better, I don't know what I'm going to do for a radiator... that was a 28" 3-row copper/brass radiator that cost me $170. Cost (before markup) on it is now nearly $300... and my core support is already cut for it. :doh:
Diplomat_Wagon
Hiding In The Bushes While
No problem.
I'm looking at these ones personally.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270782271511?ssPageName=STRK:null:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1429.l2649
Diplomat_Wagon
Hiding In The Bushes While
Crap.
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
What would you pay for a set of these wheels in fair to good shape, minus center caps?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Right now, I wouldn't pay a dime... I'm too damned broke, and I already have a set.
I paid $225 with center caps for mine, and they're the earlier forged-aluminum ones. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the cast ones, though, and they arguably look better (I think they do, personally). I've seen 'em bring $400+ on eBay for a complete set with caps. If memory serves, the center caps can still be found NOS through various sources... not cheaply, of course. I'm thinking $200-$250 would be a fair price without caps; I bought mine four or five years ago. I didn't care if they were cast or forged. I just happened to get forged; I bought them sight unseen through a friend.
Most people don't know the difference and I really don't think it matters. Like I said, the cast units are better looking and surely not problematic in any way... they just weigh more. Cast v. forged is really a moot point as far as I'm concerned. I'd already bought the wheels before I knew what they were.
How to tell forged from cast? On the cast versions, there's a definitive break line, or crease, between the openings/spokes and the outer rim... essentially the face of the wheel and the, uh, "trim ring" looking area. On the forged wheels, it's a smooth curve from the spokes to the outer edge. This is also true of the Mirada/Diplomat 10-spoke aluminum road wheels... in that case, the cast versions are far prettier to my eye. I had the cast version of those on the Black Bitch. Two of 'em disappeared on my Super Bee when my roommate bought it in '98 and made a killing on it at the Nats. I sold the other two to a local car dealer who'd I bet still has 'em... he's just a gearhead that likes hot-rod stuff. I also sold him some of those ridiculous Lund stick-on hoodscoops (three different versions) when I was working at Auto Value. He bought them to hang on his wall.
Yes, Stretch, it was "Lemon Larry". :dance:
I paid $225 with center caps for mine, and they're the earlier forged-aluminum ones. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the cast ones, though, and they arguably look better (I think they do, personally). I've seen 'em bring $400+ on eBay for a complete set with caps. If memory serves, the center caps can still be found NOS through various sources... not cheaply, of course. I'm thinking $200-$250 would be a fair price without caps; I bought mine four or five years ago. I didn't care if they were cast or forged. I just happened to get forged; I bought them sight unseen through a friend.
Most people don't know the difference and I really don't think it matters. Like I said, the cast units are better looking and surely not problematic in any way... they just weigh more. Cast v. forged is really a moot point as far as I'm concerned. I'd already bought the wheels before I knew what they were.
How to tell forged from cast? On the cast versions, there's a definitive break line, or crease, between the openings/spokes and the outer rim... essentially the face of the wheel and the, uh, "trim ring" looking area. On the forged wheels, it's a smooth curve from the spokes to the outer edge. This is also true of the Mirada/Diplomat 10-spoke aluminum road wheels... in that case, the cast versions are far prettier to my eye. I had the cast version of those on the Black Bitch. Two of 'em disappeared on my Super Bee when my roommate bought it in '98 and made a killing on it at the Nats. I sold the other two to a local car dealer who'd I bet still has 'em... he's just a gearhead that likes hot-rod stuff. I also sold him some of those ridiculous Lund stick-on hoodscoops (three different versions) when I was working at Auto Value. He bought them to hang on his wall.
Yes, Stretch, it was "Lemon Larry". :dance:
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I do need the trim around the back-glass. My car was a landau top; the trim was "grained" and painted the color of the vinyl. :doh: I wish I'd have thought of it sooner, not that I can afford it right now anyhow.Yeah I hear yah, I just saw it today while driving by the scrap yard and said "Holy Shit A LeBaron! I wonder if Pierre needs anything?"
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
Got them for $150 and a set of rollers. No caps, but I have the wheels. I pick them up in the spring as the car is wrapped up for the winter.
Find out forged or cast at that point.Is 2 door & 4 door rear window trim different on your Lebaron?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Well, trying to determine what a camshaft would do for someone on the board got me started again.
Since I've got time on my hands and no money, and recently had to consolidate multiple projects into one, I'm back to the planning stages on the engine combo. I've started with engine simulations again using updated software. It's taken some number-crunching with the turbo specs given v. what the program wants, but with a total-sissy camshaft, 9.0:1 compression, parts I've already got and conservative timing I'm up to 599HP net (687 gross) at the flywheel @ 15PSI of boost. That's with conservative head-flow numbers and accounting for greater inertial and pumping losses than I'll actually have. There is no exhaust modeling available after turbocharging is chosen, either. I understand the reasoning behind that since your choke point is the turbo(s), but flow is flow and I think the faster you get it out would make a difference. I may be wrong on that; the custom turbocharging thing is new to me.
Even if the margin of error was 10% to the negative, you gotta admit... not bad for a .030"-over 318.
Since I've got time on my hands and no money, and recently had to consolidate multiple projects into one, I'm back to the planning stages on the engine combo. I've started with engine simulations again using updated software. It's taken some number-crunching with the turbo specs given v. what the program wants, but with a total-sissy camshaft, 9.0:1 compression, parts I've already got and conservative timing I'm up to 599HP net (687 gross) at the flywheel @ 15PSI of boost. That's with conservative head-flow numbers and accounting for greater inertial and pumping losses than I'll actually have. There is no exhaust modeling available after turbocharging is chosen, either. I understand the reasoning behind that since your choke point is the turbo(s), but flow is flow and I think the faster you get it out would make a difference. I may be wrong on that; the custom turbocharging thing is new to me.
Even if the margin of error was 10% to the negative, you gotta admit... not bad for a .030"-over 318.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
actualy your completly spot on with the get it out as fast and easy as possible....the first mod you want to do to any of the 2.2/2.5 turbos is goto a 3inch down pipe and if possible lose the cat and muffler and since a turbo hushes most of the noise its not all that loud
is that single or twin turbos? and what size etc on them....curiousity and what not ya know....plus i foresee a twin turbo 360 build in my future
so yeah as much details as i can get the better...my thinking on 360 vs 318 is torque to get ya movin
somewhere ive got a whole mess of info i picked from efi ed's brain as i was askin a ton of questions
is that single or twin turbos? and what size etc on them....curiousity and what not ya know....plus i foresee a twin turbo 360 build in my future
so yeah as much details as i can get the better...my thinking on 360 vs 318 is torque to get ya movin
somewhere ive got a whole mess of info i picked from efi ed's brain as i was askin a ton of questions
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
That's SICK! What would it be for say a 408? Or would a 340 be a better choice?
The SRT4 doesn't have mufflers, I think the silencing is done through the turbo, a buddy of mine had a Shelby Lancer he had a 3" turbo back exhaust with only a 3" high flow cat and no muffler with little noise. My truck, 7.3 Powerstroke, has the stock 3.5" inch exhaust, gutted cat, muffler delete & 5" tip with very little, other than the turbo, noise.
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71ChargerRT
Well-known member
A little off topic, the Road Wheels center caps are they the same as the ones I would need for the wheels I just bought?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Those numbers were modeled with two T04E Stage III turbos (T3/T4 hybrids), and not really asking them to do much. According to the boys at Turbonetics, a pair of those will easy break the 1000HP mark on twin applications up to 500 cubic inches. I'm not looking to make that much, not even close... nor will I be anywhere near 400 cubic inches, much less 500. The stock 2.2/2.5L turbochargers are just too small--the hot side is a choke point. I'd considered using the Mitsubishi TD05-12As I had from the Conquests but they were way too small. I'm not sure I really want to get involved with junkyard turbos; the way I am, they'd have to be gone through completely before I'd trust them.
I did a lot of reading on various turbo sites, and guys are using the T04E with the .63 A/R turbine housing on 2.2/2.5s to make over 400HP on 8-valve engines.
The funny thing is, this new combination actually uses less camshaft than the one I'd modeled for the Imperial but makes more gross HP @ 10PSI than the Imp model made at 12. Looking at the graphs, the boost on this new model hits right around 3500RPM, peak torque is right at 4500RPM and HP peaks @ 6000RPM. 6500RPM looks to be the ideal shift point, well within reason on a short-stroke small-block. I've taken 'em well over 7000RPM with a stone-stock bottom end, cast-iron crank and all.
What's strange is that if I plug in a 340 block, the HP not only goes down by a few HP, it peaks 500RPM lower. It's also a flatter curve, meaning 6500RPM still looks like the ideal shift point. The torque curve remains about the same, but the numbers jump up quite a bit throughout the range. So I may ultimately go with one of my 340 blocks for the final build, but I've already got a 318 shortblock in the garage ready and waiting. That will be the engine for initially getting everything sorted and working. That's a lot of work in and of itself: MPFI, EDIS, etc. :doh: For safety's sake, I'll do the break-in on it with a carb and distributor.
I realize this is all merely a simulation and I wouldn't go around waving a printout of any of this as a dyno sheet to anyone, but the HP/torque curves are what I'm looking at the most.
Yes, I know... I need to be out actually working on the body, etc. Funding is just way too tight right now to heat the garage, run the compressor, welder, and lighting out there. I simply can't afford the fuel and the exorbitant electrical bills, period. Even though I no longer have a need for a lot of the stuff I have for sale in the classifieds, it's not there because I want to sell it.
I did a lot of reading on various turbo sites, and guys are using the T04E with the .63 A/R turbine housing on 2.2/2.5s to make over 400HP on 8-valve engines.
The funny thing is, this new combination actually uses less camshaft than the one I'd modeled for the Imperial but makes more gross HP @ 10PSI than the Imp model made at 12.
Looking at the graphs, the boost on this new model hits right around 3500RPM, peak torque is right at 4500RPM and HP peaks @ 6000RPM. 6500RPM looks to be the ideal shift point, well within reason on a short-stroke small-block. I've taken 'em well over 7000RPM with a stone-stock bottom end, cast-iron crank and all.What's strange is that if I plug in a 340 block, the HP not only goes down by a few HP, it peaks 500RPM lower. It's also a flatter curve, meaning 6500RPM still looks like the ideal shift point. The torque curve remains about the same, but the numbers jump up quite a bit throughout the range. So I may ultimately go with one of my 340 blocks for the final build, but I've already got a 318 shortblock in the garage ready and waiting. That will be the engine for initially getting everything sorted and working. That's a lot of work in and of itself: MPFI, EDIS, etc. :doh: For safety's sake, I'll do the break-in on it with a carb and distributor.
I realize this is all merely a simulation and I wouldn't go around waving a printout of any of this as a dyno sheet to anyone, but the HP/torque curves are what I'm looking at the most.
Yes, I know... I need to be out actually working on the body, etc. Funding is just way too tight right now to heat the garage, run the compressor, welder, and lighting out there. I simply can't afford the fuel and the exorbitant electrical bills, period. Even though I no longer have a need for a lot of the stuff I have for sale in the classifieds, it's not there because I want to sell it.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
If you're talking about the C-body steelies or Magnums, no. They're both too small. I believe the caps interchange between the alloys only.
On the same cam, same turbos, same compression, etc. but upsizing from my 1.925" valves to 2.02"s, the peak horsepower is actually lower than either the 318 or 340, but the whole curve moves way down the RPM scale--it peaks at 4500RPM; you'd want to grab the next gear by 5500RPM max. The torque curve is just stupid. It peaks at a fairly-lofty 4000RPM, but over 600lbs/ft are available from 2500-5000RPM, with the peak being 723lbs/ft, and at 2000RPM it's 594lbs/ft.
By the way, this is using the exact puny Summit K6901 cam I suggested in your 360 question. I went with it because it's not only a little hotter, but it actually has less overlap than the cam I'd originally chosen. Yep, all this fun at .441" lift. Idle like a stocker... :dance: