tiny...aka 1958 lloyd

One of my custom mixes:
Base of GM code 13 WA7843 silver. Just a standard silver used on pretty near everything.
Tinted clear with 2g of blue pearl to 24g of clear.
Must be topped with straight clear.

looking for a bit of clarification as ive had some "windows" of time
im under the assumption you put a cup on a scale and measured up a mixed 24grams of clear then added 2 grams of pearl?.....however all of the pearls ive seen are ultra ultra fine powder and not flake like in the slightest, so id bet it mixed up really nice

if thats correct lets assume for a second that i have something that weighs twice as much for half as much product(its actualy closer to triple the weight), would i be ok or adviseable to go with 4g to 24g clear? or even 6?

some of the media ive got is cheep and ive got alot of it..other stuff is pricey as fuck and ive got a limited amount specificaly for testing, so im trying real hard not to waste anything beyond what i can actualy shoot out the gun for said testing

ive done a BIG test panel..the whole hood, i did NOT do the body work intentionally as i want to see what it does on subtle dents as well as the hard rolls....however i did prime it out with 3 coats of high build to get it very very smooth, and i had time yesterday to lay out some coats of silver so i have my "test bed" ready to throw flakes at, i intend to mask off "strips" so i can have hard edges of tests 1-6, so i can do 1 side with each seperate flake and the other side with each one going over the previous for a "all in" finish

imo this is the only way im going to get "curve" vs flake content and flake size..and its a small enough panel to toss in the yard and view from every angle under multiple daylight conditions

im trying to make sure i dont "overload" the gun with flake so i can lay maximum flake with minimum paint...as i need to replicate whatever i find i "like" on some engine parts and thin is the name of the game..lol yeah good luck right

im also going to be laying down a..well lets call it a "medium" suspended in clear that i very///very highly doubt anyone here has ever even experimented with, i think it just might give me some of the high "pop" im after without going crazy on flake size..its just heavy as fuck
 
so a few things before i head out for work

sanded cleaned and silvered hood

the rc lloyds "stocker" after the wheel narrowing required me to narrow some rubber

and ive had more small windows so ive been doing body work on the scaler

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looking for a bit of clarification as ive had some "windows" of time
im under the assumption you put a cup on a scale and measured up a mixed 24grams of clear then added 2 grams of pearl?.....however all of the pearls ive seen are ultra ultra fine powder and not flake like in the slightest, so id bet it mixed up really nice

if thats correct lets assume for a second that i have something that weighs twice as much for half as much product(its actualy closer to triple the weight), would i be ok or adviseable to go with 4g to 24g clear? or even 6?

some of the media ive got is cheep and ive got alot of it..other stuff is pricey as fuck and ive got a limited amount specificaly for testing, so im trying real hard not to waste anything beyond what i can actualy shoot out the gun for said testing

ive done a BIG test panel..the whole hood, i did NOT do the body work intentionally as i want to see what it does on subtle dents as well as the hard rolls....however i did prime it out with 3 coats of high build to get it very very smooth, and i had time yesterday to lay out some coats of silver so i have my "test bed" ready to throw flakes at, i intend to mask off "strips" so i can have hard edges of tests 1-6, so i can do 1 side with each seperate flake and the other side with each one going over the previous for a "all in" finish

imo this is the only way im going to get "curve" vs flake content and flake size..and its a small enough panel to toss in the yard and view from every angle under multiple daylight conditions

im trying to make sure i dont "overload" the gun with flake so i can lay maximum flake with minimum paint...as i need to replicate whatever i find i "like" on some engine parts and thin is the name of the game..lol yeah good luck right

im also going to be laying down a..well lets call it a "medium" suspended in clear that i very///very highly doubt anyone here has ever even experimented with, i think it just might give me some of the high "pop" im after without going crazy on flake size..its just heavy as fuck
The formula for that silver with tinted clear was 2g of blue pearl toner off of my mixing bank.
The Prismatique that I used on Whit's Cascar ride was dry flake. Large, dry flake. It mixed in with the clear really well, but it's always advisable to keep stirring/ shaking right up until you pull the trigger on the spray gun.
 
The formula for that silver with tinted clear was 2g of blue pearl toner off of my mixing bank.
The Prismatique that I used on Whit's Cascar ride was dry flake. Large, dry flake. It mixed in with the clear really well, but it's always advisable to keep stirring/ shaking right up until you pull the trigger on the spray gun.

my biggest issue im having is a lack of information on ratios of how much dry you can safely add per amount of clear, i know its more art than science but..a baseline is what i need...and every experiment ive tried thus far has just felt far from optimal...in fact its why i shyed away from dry flake in the first place..but iknow i have no choice now
 
my biggest issue im having is a lack of information on ratios of how much dry you can safely add per amount of clear, i know its more art than science but..a baseline is what i need...and every experiment ive tried thus far has just felt far from optimal...in fact its why i shyed away from dry flake in the first place..but iknow i have no choice now
Lol! You might be over-thinking it...
If it can come out of the spray gun at normal spray pressure, you're good.
If it's dry and the flake doesn't need hardener or thinners to work, pretty much any amount is safe.
If it's flake in a suspension, as long as any required additives are used, pretty much any amount is safe.

There is no baseline... it's bench-top chemistry! ;)
 
ok//yup im overthinking it and simply managed to fowl my gun on some early shoots, tho i still question if i should be using a lower solids clear
 
mixed up just enough clear for 2 semi heavy coats on the hood with 6oz of "media" and honestly im not sure i can even see it, ill take the hood outside tommaro when ive got time and do a proper looking over, initial guess is that 6oz of this heavy ass stuff is NOT enough as it was little more than a pinch of the fingers worth
suspension in the clear while mixing looked good tho and pretty thick..its possible that this stuff is just blending too well with the silver base to notice, tho i hit it with some flash bulbs and still couldnt get it to react as it should have(no its not glow in the dark)

i have 2 tests for it tommaro, sunlight and my wifes headlights(8000k HID)
after that ill re-evaluate this idea as this media..for the whole car would easily end up 300+ just for this single media..never mind the paint materials or even the clear to suspend it in....and that if i need to bump the ratio up high enough would end up being a SINGLE COAT

so yeah

dissapointed and prepin for work
 
ultra dissapointed and fired off an email to the company to find out exactly WTF is going on/wrong as "the product is not performing as stated"

got some good sunlight in fresh mowed grass, was annoyed at best, now that the suns gone down, put it in front of the wife yarris with the 10000k HID headlights on...nodda, so i fired up the 8000k hid fog lights too..still nodda

i even dragged out my crown vic wig wag unit "sho-me 21.7460" and 4 strobes and set them out and fired up the unit in hopes of a miracle..yeah..NOPE..tried a few positions even hanging the strobes like a chandler

anyway...heres the crap im working with

 
the rest

i will admit in the first and second set theres maybe 2 shots that are..questionable at to having some odd refraction of the light that give me a glimmer of hope..but overall...you can see any flake any sparkle any...anything after about 5ft...nevermind the fact candys going to bury and blur it all out

out comes the BIG flake
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Yeah... you've lost any dazzle because the silver has swallowed it up.
Ever try it over grey base, instead of silver? Light colours typically don't show the potential effects like darker colours, and lighter metallic colours offer too much competition between flakes, metallics and pearls.

For clarification, are you looking for something like a soft white pearl, only in a shade of silver?
Maybe the shimmer of good anodizing, but in silver instead of gold?
 
actualy i played with a few colors behind the uk16 early on and found that only silver worked..so yeah in theory a grey would work at just the right shade

i did hear back from the company and...WOW thats ALOT of material
So, the issue you're running into is due to the pigment load being too little. From what you sent, you're mixing the pigment at a 100g / gallon ratio. Our reflective pigments are mixed at 600g / gallon.

I would recommend increasing the pigment load by a lot to get the intended effect.

that translates into 4.7g of media per 1 oz of paint vs my 7g per 8oz

i mean ill try it again but holy hell if it looks good and works thats alot of media

skipping it for now and playing with flake, laid down some of my big daddy roth surfite and waiting for cure, also broke out the new finex gun just so i know im working with something new and better and LOVE IT

also looking into getting some intercoat to see if i can cut down on the "thickness" of the overall paint and maybe get the flake to lay better for the candy topping
 
hell im game

i also have a qt of flatner?...paint shop gave it to me free and said to try it out..of course they never mentioned how much to add.......

ive also ordered up some bigger flake .....as much as i wanted to think the big daddy ed roth surfites at .008 were bigger than i wanted, im getting the sensation that i need to go bigger so i ordered a jar of the next size up..

2 things ive figured out as of right now...candy makes flake go poof period, so you have to have a hell of a lay up prior to the candy coating ie "over build"....and figuring out where the "over build" is at is basicly go to the point where your like uhh thats too much..cause the candy will dial it back probably more than you want

between all the test sheets ive shot trying to find "happy" i came back accross a sheet i did for a minibike build thats uhh sitting in pieces in boxes stashed....but...said test sheet has 6? test shot strips of various flake all covered in purple candy, and only 1 of them does the flake pop...the silver is invisable, the purple flake is kinda meh, the rainbow flake is again meh, then theres one where i kind went nuts and just piled a lil of everything i had into the clear as a pissed off attempt, and its the only one where the flake has any "pop"

so bassed off that i figure going with bigger flakes with several layers of various size flakes "should" give me what im after.....im tempted to try semi white flakes as they had good results under the purple...but the last thing i want is any "rainbow" coloring in the flake and i know damn well white flake can do that.....if my candy was any darker i could get away with some rainbow and have it look fine

if i get some sunlight and time ill get some current shots of what ive got brewwing...its loud and too soft at the same time..like..if the car was just going to get cleared over the silver ive got on the hood right now id go "eh close enough".....but honestly again as soon as you get a few feet away you only see a handfull of sparkles across the entire hood
 
Keep in mind that the more film-build (primer/paint/clear layers) you have, the deeper any chips will be...
Ideally, you want no more than 5 or 6 layers of MS topcoats. HS... stick to 4 max.
Ever try the flake in the candy?
 
i did, and while on the bike i felt it could work..the car not an option as i dont want the flake to be a different color than the candy
 
so resto i hit up my "old guys" at the good shop way on the other side of town...and picked up some midcoat..something that will lay down like base coat so i can get more "layers" without being too thick in the end..so i have that to try but he starts shooting the shit with me about flakes and points me at an idea and i want your thoughts...what about adding a flake thats "close" to the candy color in hopes of some offset "pop" due to the different shadowing?...i tryed this on some experiments with the purple for the bike and had mixed results..with the more crystal rock gritty stuff giving me better results than flat flake...but the results in that purple were actualy very close to what i want...im not sold that a color match "flake" will give it to me but im game to try it if you think its worth trying to track some down...they didnt carry it any more sooooooo unknown if i can even find it

either way..general consensus was 1 im not mixing in enough flake and 2 i probably need to go up a size in flake then lay down heavy flake but say pass 1 is huge flake pass 2 mid flake pass 3 fine flake so i have good overlap to "tweak" the sparkle....and i should be able to stay away from bassboat flake that way

heres what he recomended i try..the ice white ice red and that baggy color....IF...i can find it

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