Sunday go-to-meetin' car: 1968 Valiant 100

[restoman]

Epoxy prime first, then paint.
Nickel is far too hard for etching-type primer to do anything.
Epoxy primer's tenacious mechanical adhesion is really the only thing that can be expected to have any hope of success on hard surfaces.
Two coats max. One medium-to-full-wet coat is preferred. Let it flash as per the data sheet, and then paint till your little heart is content.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Blast the wheels first, I assume?

 

[restoman]

You can, or scuff with 120-180ish grit paper.
Blasting might leave a textured surface that a single coat of epoxy might not be able to fill...

 

[Dr.Jass]

You can, or scuff with 120-180ish grit paper.

That would go rather quickly on my new-to-me Ammco brake lathe.

 

[69.5CUDA]

i mean..your pretty likely to end up with a machined finish..ie the g5roves you see on a set of aluminum mags....but that might be pretty cool lookin too

 

[Dr.Jass]

The nickel plating is cool in a "that's different" sort of way, but not enough so that I want to keep it. I bought them to paint, and painted they shall be!

 

[69.5CUDA]

nah what i ment was tossin em on the lathe you may end up with a machined finish lines in the paint.....which actualy might look cool

 

[Stretch]

I have this car as well. I am not 100% sure what plans I have for it at this time. I do plan on swapping out the 3 speed for the OD Pierre already rebuilt for it. It's in the trunk along with the bellhousing, new clutch assembly, and shifter with linkage. I have all the parts for the big bolt swap too. He had planned building a 8.25 for it. I have that and the gears but I also have a extra a-body 8.75 here. I might do that because as it turns out I now have a bakers dozen 340s along with parts to build them.