Sunday go-to-meetin' car: 1968 Valiant 100

Dr.Jass

Pastor of Muppets
I now have two white late-'60s Valiants.

Ever since Stretch picked up his '73 Dart, I've been thinking that a "worthless classic" is really the way to go for a daily. Decent fuel economy, no real inherent value to worry about, and drive a cool old car on a regular basis. I've eyeballed a few since then, including an '80 Volare, '76 Colt (he wants way too much, but you never see 'em anymore), and a '72 Charger that I wouldn't be able to leave alone. The latter was also seven grand, more than I'd care to spend on such a rig.

Stretch has been looking for pedals, and last week one of his customers mentioned a car with a stick sitting a couple of miles from my house. Stretch mentioned wanting to go look at it, where it was and what it was. He thought he might buy it for the pedals. I knew which car we were discussing immediately. "That's Reid's car. I don't even know for sure if it's for sale. He's been on the fence about it for a long time. You definitely will not get it cheaply enough to scrap it for pedals, and it's too solid for that from what he's told me." I'd never actually seen it, but Reid and I had discussed it several times in the past.

We decided to go have a look after work unannounced. What we found was a 1968 Valiant 100 2-door sedan, an absolute bare stripper of a car, with a 170-cube Slant and a floor-shifted 3-speed, though the original bolt-action column was still present. Zero options. Manual drums, manual steering, etc. It has an AM radio, and that's about it. It's even generic white. Oh, one other thing it has is a Wyoming license plate. WY doesn't use salt. Stretch said he knew as soon as we saw it that I'd probably buy it. He was not wrong.

I called Reid the next day and started asking questions. Yes, it ran and drove when he parked it. "If you bring a battery when you come to look at it, it'll start." I mentioned to him about Stretch being told about it and wanting the pedals out of it, and he said, "You know, if you'd just call Reid you'd know Reid has pedals too. I've got a couple of sets. I'll sell him one." We talked a bit more about him originally wanting to build a 4-speed drag car from it, but he's already got an 11-second Duster with which to play, and another project doesn't appeal to him anymore. I asked if it was OK if we stopped by that night, and he said sure.

When we got there, the hood was open. He'd been working on his boat and used the battery to get the Valiant started. It wasn't still running at that point, but it was running soon enough. It started like a champ. Stretch noted significant blowby but the car's been sitting for at least 5 years so it may just be stuck rings. The underside of the car is in excellent condition, with the only notable rust being the front floor pans (Reid already replaced the RH one) due to it being a vinyl-floor car, a now-patched LF fender, and a hole behind the RH rear wheel. There are a lot of dents but they're minor pop-out or minor hammer/dolly work. He'd already replaced the grilles in it with very nice used ones, replaced all the side-marker lights, and installed an NOS left-front parking lamp/turn signal. No attempt was made to move or drive the car; Reid says it drives OK and I trust him.

The interior is trashed. The dash pad is literally the worst I've ever seen; thank God it's one-year-only. The lower dash pad--another '68-only bit--is in excellent condition. The door/trim panels are gone and the seat's missing, replaced with the original bench from Reid's Duster. It's going to need a lot of junkyard love in the form of parts torn from dead A-bodies. There's a strong possibility it may get some E-body buckets, since I have an extra set along with all-new upholstery for them. The only real trick may be finding the seat brackets. I'm sure the E-body ones won't work, but I've only got one set anyhow if memory serves.

With everything I've done to Agnes I've become intimately familiar with everything about these cars so few service mysteries remain. Spare parts? I've got 'em in spades, including another complete small-bolt 8¾ axle and disc-brake setup. I have most, if not all, of the rebuild parts for the front suspension thanks to double-ordering everything for the '69 when doing that car (I didn't realize I'd already ordered, so I ordered more). I have 4-speeds out the wazoo, a couple of complete Hurst shifters (wrong handles--don't care), so only a bellhousing would be needed to install an overdrive transmission. The engine remains a question mark but other than the blowby it ran pretty well. If the rings free up and it stops smoking, great. If not, I could either freshen what's there or swap to an economy-minded V8 (273 or 318, though with a plethora of 340s on hand it's tempting to build a mild one). I've already swapped a V8 into a Valiant so that's a familiar process. I'd forego the $800 headers this time and simply run iron manifolds, though. Keeping the original engine sorta depends on two things: its overall condition and exactly how anemic the little 170 is... Reid said it's pretty weak even for puttering around town.

Considering all of the above, it just made sense as a driver. I handed Reid his $1,500 asking price without haggle--he's come through for me in the past, namely giving me the transmission crossmember for Agnes--and became the proud owner of Valiant #2. He came through for Stretch, too, selling him the needed pedals (with a good clutch safety switch!) and floor hump for the desired overdrive 4-speed conversion of his Dart at what I thought was a very reasonable number.

I'll post pictures once I've got some. I didn't take the camera with me and we've yet to bring the car home. My phone camera produces tiny photos with the image quality of Jungle Hunt on the Atari 2600 so I didn't bother taking any.
 
hmmm 68..i know ive got piles of bucket seat cores and adjusters, i highly doubt ive got a 68 dash but i know right where all the dash pads are so it will be pretty obvious if i look
nad yes the 170 is....a slug, it cant get out ofthe way of a butterfly at full tilt...i belive i have 1 od slanty bell remaining too
i also came across the console shift brackets if either of you 2 are considering it...i also have an auto top plate id cut for a 4spd that looked good tho required a slightly tweaked shifter which i dont have...but it was little more than chopping it off low and moving its rod over a few inches to re-center it in the console
you know me tho ive got more 67-9 abody stuff than i can remember..hell ive got 2 complete sets of KH disc swaps too along with 2 more sets of calipers
"if" it were mine id axe the slanty for atleast a 225 and consider that a MINIMUM swap(i still have a slanty 4brl intake)...tho if youve got a 273 kickin around or know where one is..i wouldnt even hesitate in the slightest..good sipping engines and can benifit greatly from a dual plane intake to give more torque band across that screaming rpm band....this is where i adore the sp2p that i know you hate but the 273 LOVES it...that coupled with a stock 340 cam and 525 afb youve got a lil hotrod that sips fuel but isnt afraid of gettin on it
i still have a 273 in my 67 and LOVE IT....one summer i actualy tested 6 different aftermarkets intakes and 3 OE on the 273 with the 340 cam and same carb..IE zero real changes but the intake and tuning per intake..all of the single planes let the engine spin and make it want to just spin to the moon but sacrafice alot of torque not just down low but across the whole band it doesnt really "wake up" in the torque department ever...the "air gap" single plane was the only intake that showed any noteable torque gains down low over 3 other singles..but honestly the factory 2brl dual plane still had more torque..as did the 4brl la dual plane....
were not talking about just the seat-of-the pants that was back when i was hittin the strip every weekend with it..and since at that point i didnt feel it was "drag racing" since your really trying to just pick your time and get close to it i used it as a test bed to test the intakes and i focused on the 60ft marks...the 60ft marks were crap with the singles, and the duals the big standard LA runners were leaps and bounds over the singles but the huge improvement of the sp2p couldnt be denied ..the ONLY place the sp2p starts to fall off is close to redline...but at that point your probably not on the street....
in all honesty of the single plane vs dual plane...it measured up about the equivilant of dropping a full gear set of compensation..thats the kind of torque change i was noteing..as well as more difficulty hooking up LOL
 
The '68 finally found its way back here today... so on with the pictures nobody's been dying to see.

Nothing's collapsed or failed, the grass and weeds are just that high in that section of my yard. 😁

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It's very solid in these particular A-body spots:

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Foot-pump windshield washers, baby... I toldja she was a stripper!

Literally the worst spot on the body, by a long shot. It's a relatively-easy fix if I do concern myself with it.

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Odds are at least even that I'll spring for a dash pad, considering its 1-year-only status. I'm not sure yet. I know where there's a decent brown pad, but it's a '74.

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Scaly but not soft. I'll clean this as well as possible and re-assess if necessary, but I think this pan is usable as-is. The manual-trans hump is not welded down and makes scary noises--rattles are instantly reconizable, but when it vibrates it sounds like the throwout bearing is coming apart. It's not, I verified it's the tunnel.

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The headliner? Well, it needs a little work...

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Why yes, that is the missing RH headlamp bezel! 50/50 odds on the grille being swapped out for my spare '69 piece. The '68 is just so... frumpy-lookin'. I've never seen anyone adequately un-frump one. Oh, hey--anyone need some blue high-back van buckets? They're free!

Patina? We've got it in spades... the hood, roof, and decklid all look similar with the roof being the, uh, best?

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There's junk in her trunk, but no rust. This is a wonderland compared to Agnes, herself being far more solid in this area than most A-bodies 'round these parts.

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This is on the driver's quarter glass. Reid's a funny guy.

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I was informed today that the hubcaps are not original to this car. Reid said he was with his son out near their camp and found another '68 Valiant rotting in the woods, long abandoned and far beyond saving. "We should complete the look of that car," he told his only child, so they jumped out and stole all four dog dishes off it. 😆

That's it for the pictures. I'll post later about initial impressions, ideas, and plans based on what I now know having actually driven the car a little. Oh yes, she's a driver.

Oh, and wrap your head around this: The 54-year-old parking brake works perfectly. Reid never touched it--it worked when he bought the car. All it needs is a new handle. The parking brake in my Southern-all-its-life, six-year-newer Challenger didn't work!
 
if you told me you had that hauled back their from out here..i would belive you 110%..thats indeed a CLEAN a-body and about as rough as we ever find em out here unless they were tarped

thank GOD its not a vynle top car too..thats the other semi exception as you know for rot...and...IMO the 2dr post cars look so much better with a clean roof

as far as the grill goes..i personaly would leave it for the simple fact that EVERYONE changes em out..thus the uniqueness makes me like it more..certainly you can find the missing bezzle?>

you need a 67 now to ...complete the set

i love how ALL abody slantys have that spray up brake master area of blasting

correct me if im wrong..cause...its been a while but cant you "nip" the dash cover legs of a non 8 dash to fit?..i know the lower and the frame is 110% 68 a-body only but i swear i remember trimming a normal uppr to fit as a temporary fix till i found a clean 8
 
I'd upgrade with a new-ish 225 and call it done, but 69's 273 suggestion is pretty good as well.....sweet little car that is in amazing shape considering!
 
The car started pretty well after a liberal application of fuel down the carburetor and had no problem staying running. I'm pretty confident the 170 will stay put for a coupe of reasons. Most importantly, the blowby smoke Stretch reported when first we saw it run has literally vanished. There's no smoke out the breather whatsoever now, which I suspected might happen since the car hadn't run in some time before that. I'm guessing the rings were stuck and have now unstuck themselves. The other big reason? I've actually driven the car now. It was not a great distance, but I did have to go down/around a block or two in the process of getting it on the trailer. I am happy to report the acceleration is nowhere near as terrifying as was described to me. Quite the opposite, in fact. Obviously it's no street racer but acceleration--at least in first gear--is acceptable, bordering on mildly surprising. It's actually quicker than Agnes was with the bigger Slant she once had, and Agnes was fully tuned with an Ignitor installed. Tiny tires and gearing, baby! The only problem was the clutch, which needs adjustment (for the moment, anyhow). It's right at the top of the pedal--I looked like a total manual-trans noob until I acclimated to it.

It obviously needs a lot of interior love, including a RH rear floor pan or at least a patch (the front was already changed; why he didn't do a full-length pan I don't know). The interior was originally a hideous brown/gold combination that I will make zero effort to preserve. I see black vinyl dye and junkyard panels in my future. Nothing particularly drastic, though, beyond popping for a dash pad. I can deal with a crack or two, but damn. @69.5CUDA I don't think an earlier/later dash pad needs to be trimmed (looking at the '69s pad), but it won't meet up with the lower pad well. The '68 pad sticks out further at the lower edge, so a different-year pad would make the dash look a bit like Sling Blade. 😄

The plan for the moment is to check/set the valve lash, install an Ignitor, monkey with the carb and timing a bit, and see what I can do about returning to an automatic choke. It looks like a tune-up was done recently (in terms of miles, anyhow) so those parts will get inspected and only replaced if necessary. The 3-speed will be replaced with an A833OD. It'll cost me a bit of off-the-line oomph--first gear in the 3-speed is 3.22:1, the OD is 3.09:1--but it's not a major amount. The brakes actually seem good, and they stop well, but they'll get upgraded anyhow. Four-wheel 9" drums in whitetail country? No thank you. The 10" drums apparently aren't much better, surprisingly. According to the 1968 brochure, they have only 3 square inches greater swept area... weird. Anyhow, the suspension will get a good once-over and I'll replace what's necessary. I'll likely swap out the alternator/voltage regulator to the '70-up arrangement since I have trust issues with point-style regulators.

I am considering doing a big-bolt disc swap on this car, largely because I have an almost-complete late front suspension/brakes. It seems a bit silly to waste good small-bolt-pattern parts on this car since the small-bolt disc-brake stuff is vanishing quickly: Moog ball joints are gone forever, brake rotor and 10" drum choices are getting thin. Big-bolt repair parts are less expensive and easier to find, and I'd need only one upper control arm and an A-body 8¼" axle to do it. There's really no point in wasting an 8¾" housing behind a 170, and I have a new 8¼" Trac-Lok in stock (a Dakota leftover). I believe the axle ratio in the car now is 3.23:1; I'm considering a 3.55:1. That would give me a 2.69:1 overall final drive and make up some lost acceleration when the tiny P175/70R-13 tires--a whopping 22½" tall--are replaced with larger rubber. A 3.55 with the overdrive's 3.09 first gear would be the equivalent of a 4.48:1 rear gear behind an A904G in first, so I think it'll be fine.

I'd upgrade with a new-ish 225 and call it done, but 69's 273 suggestion is pretty good as well.....sweet little car that is in amazing shape considering!

I'd also mentioned a 273 or 318 in my original post, but I absolutely can't justify swapping to a different six--if an engine swap happens in the future, it'll be to a V8. Having driven it I'm not convinced the V8 swap is necessary for my goals on this one. I have a manual-trans 340 Valiant already so we begin to overlap a bit. I just need a decent driver, and good economy is important if not paramount. The original fuel-economy specs for this car are something like 20/27MPG city/highway from what I read. I don't know that I can improve the city mileage all that much but I'm sure the overdrive would put the car over 30MPG highway with ease. That would be nice with fuel hovering near $4/gallon at the moment. Stretch got nearly 28MPG highway with his heavier 225/auto four-door Dart on a recent road trip. What he hasn't gotten is a speeding ticket. 😆 If/when I get my license back, I'll be on thin ice for awhile so a slow daily with excellent economy ain't such a bad thing.

Besides, I just bought an A833OD bellhousing, so now I'm sorta committed. 😁
 
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as someone who has had both the 9s and he 10s i can tell you that the 10 inch swap is a MASSIVE improvement..and was the first thing i did with the 68 slanty

its not the total sweep its the leverage and larger "heat sink"...to this day i still have the 10s on my 67, but the rear is now the cop car 8 3/4 b body units..and even on the 8th mile they never once scared me...the fact ive got a few sets of KH smalls around and never swapped it should say plenty LOL...but if youve got the big boys laying around i dont blame you one second for going big..you have the bits do it!...tho....if possible id see if you could find the 7-1/4 big bolt axles..i say this for the simple fact of weight and rotating mass behind the 170..the more you can keep this low the better your MPG and the more livly its going to feel....weight is everything!

something tells me that where the 170 lacks in total output it makes up for in grunt?..i know the 225 in the 68 was a dog..and there was nothing i could do to improve it..hell the fact that im guessing youve got a very VERY low mile still "new" ish 170 sitting there id bet the OD is acurate if its not been swapped...and yes that 3spd is helping you a TON..i know it was too brutal in the a-108 with the 318..down right rip the front tires off the ground...something also tells me that the compresion rato on your 170 is probably higehr than stretches emissions dart making more torque

im not sold that the 68 dash was just fatter at the corners but again its been a crazy long time, hell if a late dash fits till you can find a reasonable 68 i say do it...i mean hell you could just break all the crap off and wrap the OE in synthetic suede too..its a simple job and looks pretty good and cheep...could even do the door panels, for that matter if you can sew a straight line a headliner too

and yes the 3:55s are almost certainly a requirement with that 170 and the OD unit, the 68 had the 323s behind the 225 with an od swap and imo thats what ruined the car..the 3 spd with the 323s is perfect, once you go od and lose the 13s you lose just way way too much...id actualy question if 373 gears wouldnt be even better behind it as i question its "legs" while in OD..the 225 wasnt bad but you could feel it really working harder than it should..i remember that 68 fish slanty way too well for a car i came to hate more and more day by day
 
and yes the 3:55s are almost certainly a requirement with that 170 and the OD unit, the 68 had the 323s behind the 225 with an od swap and imo thats what ruined the car..the 3 spd with the 323s is perfect, once you go od and lose the 13s you lose just way way too much...id actualy question if 373 gears wouldnt be even better behind it as i question its "legs" while in OD..the 225 wasnt bad but you could feel it really working harder than it should..i remember that 68 fish slanty way too well for a car i came to hate more and more day by day

I verified that the rear axle is indeed a 3.23--gotta love '68 data tags. To maintain the same first-gear acceleration with the 3.09:1 first gear in the A833OD, I'd only need a 3.36:1 rear gear (coincidentally, I used to have an NOS set of those for a 741 case). Anyhow, the 3.55s would actually give me a bit more in 1st, a virtually-identical 2nd-gear final drive to the 3.23s with the A903, then a bit more in 3rd as well. Plus it adds the overdrive for good measure:

A903 (six-cylinder) gear ratios:
1st: 3.22:1 (10.04 final drive)
2nd: 1.84 (5.94 final drive)
3rd: 1.00 (direct)

A833OD gear ratios:
1st: 3.09:1 (10.97 final drive)
2nd: 1.67 (5.93 final drive)
3rd: 1.00 (direct)
4th: 0.73 or 0.76 depending on source (2.7 final drive)

So there's no real downside to the overdrive swap if I throw a 3.55 axle in it. Before I change axles, though, I'll see how dreadful things are with the OE 3.23 gears. Using the aluminum F-body OD transmission should keep weight similar and I'm almost certain the driveshaft will work as-is, at least with the current axle. It probably needs shortening for any other rearend.

Obviously the tires are a mitigating factor, but at 70MPH the car would be turning more than 2,800RPM with the tires that are currently on it. Swapping to something like a 205/75R-14 would drop it by about 400RPM at the same speed, and to a cool 2,100 at 60. Another thing to consider: 13" car tires are virtually a thing of the past. The only sizes I could find availalble that weren't trailer or autocross tires were 175/70 and 205/60, with the latter being Radial T/As @ $135 each. Those two sizes are both 22.1" in diameter--too small, and very possibly NLA when replacement time comes.

I am hoping to pick up a few ponies and lb/ft with the electronic ignition and a buttload more ignition timing than the hyper-conservative factory specification.
as someone who has had both the 9s and he 10s i can tell you that the 10 inch swap is a MASSIVE improvement..and was the first thing i did with the 68 slanty

its not the total sweep its the leverage and larger "heat sink"...to this day i still have the 10s on my 67, but the rear is now the cop car 8 3/4 b body units..and even on the 8th mile they never once scared me...the fact ive got a few sets of KH smalls around and never swapped it should say plenty LOL...but if youve got the big boys laying around i dont blame you one second for going big..you have the bits do it!...tho....if possible id see if you could find the 7-1/4 big bolt axles..i say this for the simple fact of weight and rotating mass behind the 170..the more you can keep this low the better your MPG and the more livly its going to feel....weight is everything!

So noted on the brakes. Still, if I'm going to do a swap I'm going to use parts I have on-hand, and I'm fresh out of A-body 10" front drum parts. I have literally all the K-H disc parts along with a fairly complete single-piston setup. Which I use will likely come down to pricing, although future availability is a bigger concern with a regularly-driven car. Our favorite boneyard has a lot of '73-up A-bodies, so I'm hoping I find some kind of rear-axle solution there. I'd be more apt to keep the small axle were it a Sure Grip, but it's not.
something tells me that where the 170 lacks in total output it makes up for in grunt?..i know the 225 in the 68 was a dog..and there was nothing i could do to improve it..hell the fact that im guessing youve got a very VERY low mile still "new" ish 170 sitting there id bet the OD is acurate if its not been swapped...and yes that 3spd is helping you a TON..i know it was too brutal in the a-108 with the 318..down right rip the front tires off the ground...something also tells me that the compresion rato on your 170 is probably higehr than stretches emissions dart making more torque

Actually, the 170 is considered the "screamer" of the Slants. It's the only one that can hit 6,000RPM in mostly-stock form. It's a full inch shorter in crankshaft stroke than the 225 (with a correspondng 1" shorter deck height). More importantly, the Slant Six cylinder head was designed for the 170, which was designed solely for the Valiant. The 225 came along as a bit of an afterthought, primarily for the larger cars. Despite revisions over the years, some major, no significant improvements were made to valving or porting to make it work better on the 225. That's why the RG is a grunt engine that runs out of wind around 4,500 in stock form (maybe 5,000 for a 198). In '68, the 225 had 30 more peak HP than the 170 (at lower RPM) but a whopping 60lb/ft more peak torque, with a fatter torque curve overall. Compression on the 170 is 8.5:1, the 225 was 8.4:1 so there's not a huge difference there.
im not sold that the 68 dash was just fatter at the corners but again its been a crazy long time, hell if a late dash fits till you can find a reasonable 68 i say do it...i mean hell you could just break all the crap off and wrap the OE in synthetic suede too..its a simple job and looks pretty good and cheep...could even do the door panels, for that matter if you can sew a straight line a headliner too

The photos tell the story. The lower dash pad would protrude from the upper badly using a later (or earlier) dash pad. The '68 pad doesn't taper off toward the dash structure like all the other A-body pads do.

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While it might be acceptable to use a different pad for the time being, I'm only taking it out once. If I did anything temporary it would be a cap, and that's not likely. A-body dashes are a major pain in the ass to service, so I want to keep dashboard work to a minimum. That means radio, speaker, and glove box replacement, any heater service, and any cluster detailing/upgrades will all happen at once... while the dash is apart.

I spent a little time doing a cursory cleanup of the interior. The bottom of the glovebox fell out, as did the '66 Land Cruiser title that was in it. Since the glovebox is garbage, I pulled down on it in hopes of finding a build sheet. No such luck. I pulled out the blue van buckets that were stuffed in the back seat and found they have the lowest-profile seat tracks I've ever seen. I might be able to make those work in this car with custom floor standoffs. I think all the seatbelts were under the buckets, which is a relief. I noticed they'd been removed and wondered about their fate. I also found another option the car had: Shoulder belts! The '69 doesn't have 'em so I assume they're optional. I don't know if I have the belts themselves, but noticed these:

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I started it again and let it get up to temperature. I had to dump fuel down the carb again. I tried to open the choke too early and it stalled and would not restart. That's when I noticed the carburetor has no accelerator-pump function whatsoever. That's to say, I'm sure it's supposed to have it but there's not even a dribble during throttle movement... so that'll need a rebuild. Still no evidence of major blowby, so it appears the rings have in fact sorted themselves out.

Other observations:
  • It's going to need a radiator, no question. There's tube and fin damage as well as corrosion. Whilst looking at that, I wondered if there's any possibility of using a clutch fan. It's pretty tight in there.
  • The exhaust needs some attention too... she's a bit loud.
  • Reid mentioned that he didn't think the fuel gauge works, so I'll investigate that when I can get the car up off the ground, probably during the transmission swap. The gauge moves on key-on but it doesn't rise past E despite Reid's insistance that there's at least half a tank of fuel, maybe more.
  • The turn-signal switch is so floppy that it activates the LH turn signal when you close the door. Sometimes the LH brake lamp stays lit. I think that's in the turn signal switch, though, because the RH one works correctly.
  • No hazards whatsoever. I had that problem on the '69 and rebuilding the switch fixed it.
  • The front park lamps don't work either, which I'm certain is a ground issue. That would explain the fine-except-for-hyperflashing turn signals.
  • The Sparkomatic shifter can't leave soon enough. I can't install the tunnel extension until it's gone, because the shifter hits the RH edge of the shifter hole. Were it welded down, I'd have no 2nd or 3rd gears.
I'm sure I'll find more the further I dig, but I've got a solid to-do list already.
 
funny thing about the sholder belts, check the posts and if its got the welded nut....note the location then goto the 69 and you should be able to feel for the dimple or hole, what i found weird about shoulder belts is that the 68/9 fastback barracudas some have REAR seat shoulder belt provisions as in the nut is even welded in

id be curious to see the seat tracks

heres an oddball for ya that i bet you didnt know existed..late LATE a bodys could be ordered with a PLASTIC glove box...i never could figure out if it was a taxi/GOV order only thing or not..but ive come across exatly 2..both of them had a glove box light as well
as far as the clutch fan goes...didnt the "76" aluminum block slantys have a flex fan?..i remember they were trying to squeeze every last ounce of mpg out of them,,,,i wonder if they used a different water pump to gain clearance?

i dont blame you for thinking parts availibility one bit...even 14inch tires are getting harder to find

now pull that back seat and see f theres a build sheet in either half..thats your last hope of finding one..well..i mean i have found one once in the passenger kick panel but ive never found a second one there
 
funny thing about the sholder belts, check the posts and if its got the welded nut....note the location then goto the 69 and you should be able to feel for the dimple or hole, what i found weird about shoulder belts is that the 68/9 fastback barracudas some have REAR seat shoulder belt provisions as in the nut is even welded in
The rear mounts for the shoulder belts are definitely in place on the '68. The plastic trim is still up there, only the belts are gone. It wouldn't surprise me to find 'em on the '69, though. Stuff like that was probably preinstalled to the structure piece before the unibody was even welded together.

id be curious to see the seat tracks
Stretch is as well. Seriously, they're like maybe an inch tall if that, not including the floor studs. They're perfectly flat, meaning all four studs are at the same height. I'll try to remember to get pictures of 'em posted. The seats themselves actually aren't that bad, but without a tilt-forward function they're useless in a 2-door.

heres an oddball for ya that i bet you didnt know existed..late LATE a bodys could be ordered with a PLASTIC glove box...i never could figure out if it was a taxi/GOV order only thing or not..but ive come across exatly 2..both of them had a glove box light as well
Not only am I aware of the plastic glovebox, I actually almost had two of them. There are both a white-plastic and black-plastic version. The black one is more durable. The reason I say I almost had two of them was that during removal, the white one literally crumbled to powder. I don't think they were an option, I think it was a year thing. Both of the ones I tried to remove came from '74-'76 cars, neither was a cop car or taxi. In fact, they were both fastback coupes.

I also have two complete inside hood-latch setups, which change slightly year-to-year.

as far as the clutch fan goes...didnt the "76" aluminum block slantys have a flex fan?..i remember they were trying to squeeze every last ounce of mpg out of them,,,,i wonder if they used a different water pump to gain clearance?
The aluminum-block 225 was last made/installed in a car in 1962. It's surprising they didn't bring it back for the Feather Duster, but what was aluminum for the first time in that car was the A833OD, having been cast iron in '75 and in most '76s. Fan clutches are listed for the later cars as well (I didn't actually check 1968). Anyhow, the water pump shown for the 1976 models is the same as the 1968 listings, so it doesn't appear there were any dramatic changes there. I'm thinking the difference may be in the radiator. The one in this car seems to have very deep brackets, moving the radiator closer to the fan. It seems deeper than the one in the '69, both the aftermarket aluminum one and the original. Like I said, this is an area where I need to do more investigation. I'm glad the pump didn't change because I hate getting into accessory brackets, etc.

I'm not too worried about a build sheet, since it wouldn't be particularly interesting on this car. If I find one, great. It's definitely not behind the RH kick panel since that's out and there's nothing on it or in the body over there.
 
thats odd i thought the feather and spirit cars were aluminum blocks..i knew the trans was...but hey right track atleast on the fan..guess run the rad numbers too

the 2dr valiants are the 1 a body ive never been able to rummage around and dig into as they just are rare to come across..TBH i dont think ive come across but maybe 4 or 5 7-9 valiant 4drs ever....everything was dart
since the headlines shot and youll have it apart do me a favor and check for REAR seat shoulder mounts, i was suprised as hell to find em in fast back fish...i mean front seat shoulders sure of course but rear seat shoulder..i didnt even know they exist..i still dont think they do other than being provisioned
 
They definitely existed but were rarer than early-'70s GM steering-wheel airbags.

The only car of that era that I recall seeing with rear-seat shoulder belts was a loaded convertible pilot car, and for the life of me I can't remember which model it was. I think it was a B-body, though. The anchor points were near the rear wheelhouses. I have the article somewhere but haven't seen it in years.
 
the gold 67 fastback i cut the roof off of for the rolled 69 was the first time id ever seen such a thing...front shoulders were common enough after 68 but 67 a bodys dont seem to even have the nuts welded in unless they were a "late" 67...so finding rears was totaly mind boggling
existing in a vert just seems triple weird....seems like they woulda made more sense in a wagon than any otehr car

i never knew about the gm air restraint system...
 
I would have been all over that car for $1500!

That is exactly my idea of a daily driver.
Exactly.

I wouldn't be able to resist a body & paint, especially with how nice the body is, and I'd likely go with an OD trans, but that would be the extent of it.
Plus an interior, of course.
 
I would have been all over that car for $1500!

That is exactly my idea of a daily driver.
Exactly.
That's kind of what I thought when I first saw it, but it being essentially drivable as-is sealed the deal. Even if it hadn't been, I still think the price was fair considering the condition.

I wouldn't be able to resist a body & paint, especially with how nice the body is, and I'd likely go with an OD trans, but that would be the extent of it.
Plus an interior, of course.
There are a lot of dings and puckers in the body. I think--as did Reid--that this car belonged to some kind of tradesman and he worked it (hence the trailer hitch that Reid removed and put in the trunk). It's nothing I couldn't work out, of course, but whether the effort is justified remains to be seen. I'm quite fond of 1968 code E Midnight Blue and I think this car would look amazing in that color... but it's a dark color, so the bodywork would have to be pretty ace to pull it off.

I already have the overdrive transmission and the bellhousing should be here Thursday. From what I've gathered researching the swap, the only other part I need to change is the shifter. Everything else swaps straight across. Shifters I've got, in spades.

What happens with the interior remains to be seen. The door panels are present but the vinyl's removed from one so they're not matched anymore. I may just do a quicky reupholster on 'em, but I'd like to see what the boneyard has to offer first. As I mentioned, I have a spare set of '73-'74 E-body buckets along with white Legendary seat/hinge covers for them. Those may end up in this car, which would look pretty good with some white interior panels. The gold has got to go, though. It's truly dreadful, even when clean.
 
those gold guts were NEVER prteyy i dont care what color the car was

that midnight blue would look stunning on it..and honestly with as clean as it is..id do it...youll NEVER come across another example that clean or cleaner to do it to..so why not?
i really hope you keep the 68 grill..just to stand out
 
If the car were to be painted a dark color, I'd probably keep the grille. To my eye, it's the only way it works. I've looked at hundreds of pictures trying to determine a way to un-homely that grille. It's just too damned ugly with a light or medium color.
 
For those interested in the low-profile seat adjusters I mentioned above, there's a thread here complete with pictures and measurements.
 

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