Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Ok looks like drivers side will be stolen from the 74, some spots to dig into but better than the other.........
small patch was done down here, need to get some serious light into the brace area to make sure it's ok in there on the back of the welds........



light bucket area looks pretty good............



fits pretty good, on the other car with 73 fender on door hits when I open it, but if I buy a new one.....mute point



little spot to check right at the tip by header panel..........



& on top what do you think of a good cleanout & then seam sealer in all these joints??????????



Passenger side is good up top, but was swiss cheese on the front drop off, the back of one of my patches, I just added a piece of metal & welded holes from front ??????
Might work the 73, that's only bad in the rear mount, if that fails then try something with this???????



 
So that & getting one long edge of the hood cleaned off was todays progress, happy to say no rust spotted on all my welds from skinning that hood.

think if I get that fender back to metal & the hood ready I'll have enough bare metal to mix up a quart of Z & get them covered up with a couple of coats.

next mix should be when the other fender is ready & then additional coats on the first parts?

Looking through my inventory, a gallon of Z, almost a gallon of rage gold, a quart of the base coat, forgot to check clear, I think a quart. 3/4's of a quart of organasol black.
around a quart of K36 , almost a quart of dp50lf non sanding epoxy maybe a little more misc stuff & a hole gallon of por's tie coat primer it's a polyurethane one step primer(no hardener ????
 
Not much further along, finished off the hood edges today, did a little sanding on the C pillar & put in a little eastwood order. bought a cheapie gun & a 2.0 nozzle/tip kit to spray the Z-chrome, a fresh can of metal wash(but the way no rust yet after a couple of rainy days so it's working) a couple of lead sticks & some weld thru primer for my little patches.
when it gets close I have a paint store where I get some stuff for the house, will ask a favor & see if he will shake up the Z for me?
Charger man talked to the body guy around the corner & he said sure he'll paint it, now I have to get him to look at what's here, what he thinks I should do about the rest of the car & the most important Question, HOW MUCH!!!!!!!!!!
 
Rainy day so I dragged the other fender in, cut out the carnage........................



got the inner patch ready, will drill out the bolt hole after both are on, I have it drilled on the outter..........



& the outer, gonna go break out the mig & start spotting it in....................
 
Tacked in the inner patch & then hit that & the back of the outer with weld thru primer...................



tacked in the outer.........................



first round of grinding done, trying to decide if I continue welding or just lead the rest, I'm gonna jamb those gaps in the back with seam sealer, looks like a good spot for water to collect! :( really don't need that! :rolleyes:

 
Weld it solid, there is some stress in that area.
Save the lead for sleds and tire weights... :)
 
Ok looks like more............ a weldin & a grindin! Guess I shouldn't get lazy with the FINAL go at this, just that I handle lead sooooo much better!
 
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Couple more rounds of spots & grinds, & decided to lead all the seams on the back...............



out front same deal, had a few holes & a pretty low section on the point so I filled & built up with lead, now I have to see if I take the whole thing down, or just putty in the bad spots, same goes for the rest of the car, gonna try & drag the body guy over & see what he thinks of my mess???????

 
Thanks 68, the pics always make it look good, it's not bad, will need a touch a putty, but the mess I was referring to is the whole car, with por 15 under most of it, how should I procede, patch in the bad spots & rough up the rest, shoot over, or take it all back down?????????????????? It's a major question & a ton more work, so it's on to the rocker & that little spot below the rear window for now.
 
Resto, I hit it with the metal wash, trying to get to the point I can mix & shoot at least a quart of Z at one time, the gun with the 2.0 tip kit is here , ran some air tools for the grinding so the compressor is ok after sitting for 3 or 4 years.
Got a question, I have PPG Acryli clean DX330, can I use that to clean the bare metal before I shoot, that's what I used between shoots the first time around, I don't think it leaves any coatings?
 
Is the metal wash a phosphoric acid? How are you using it?

If it were me, I'd be coating it with epoxy primer, even if you have to brush it on...

Not familiar with PPG DX330, but if it's a wax and grease remover, it should be ok to topcoat with primer, as long as you don't let it surface-dry before wiping it off. Most wax and grease removers leave a miniscule amount of film behind just because of the way they're used, but it's usually not enough to cause problems. Go over it two or three times with new clothes each time and you're assured of a clean surface... usually overkill unless the surface has been Armor-All'd to death.
 
I'll have to read the can again, but it does leave a coating on the metal, I think phosphate, it says it promotes adhesion, but the Z-chrome says don't use anything, so a pre wash before I shoot .
Dx330 is a grease & wax remover, used it before shooting last time on the regular primers & between coats if the car sat.
 
Wax and grease remover won't remove a coating left by phosphoric acid.
If, after you're done with the metal prep, you have a multi-coloured sheen on the steel (almost like a rainbow), you need to remove that sheen.
Some guys say it's ok to prime right over it, but since they aren't around to pay for a re-do if something goes wrong, I sand it off right before priming. Use a Clean n' Strip wheel, or some surface prep cookies in the nooks and crannies.
It might be overkill, but I also go over the surface with a tack cloth before priming... the cleaner, the better. The cleaner the substrate, the better the adhesion.
 
Yep, they work fine. Trick to making them last is to not run whatever tool they're attached to at high speed.
I used to cringe when I'd buy them by the box-full and listen to one of my guys using them with the air tool turning 10,000 rpm.
 
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